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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-24-2013, 08:11 AM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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Strange alarm issue, goes off when using the remote button

Every time when I use the remote button to lock the car, the alarm will goes off when unlock it will the button, but not with the key. But if I lock the car with the key, the alarm will not goes off when I unlock it with the key or using the button. Checked the hood switch, nothing wrong with it, same case apply when the hood switch is unplug.
Battery is good at 13+ volt and alternator is charging properly. Anyone had this issue before and found out how it fix it?

thanks in advance,
Ed
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96 528i AT w/steptronic. => 97 540i w/ steptronic. =>steptronic deleted, 6MT installed.
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  #2  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:35 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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Sounds like a problem with the security system. Will probably need a BMW diagnostic computer to interrogate the system.

How long does the alarm run when you open remotely?
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:41 AM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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When the alarm goes off, it will run for like 45 seconds...roughly.

It started off doing it once in a while until this week it goes off every time when I use the remote bottom to unlock the car. Then I stop using the button and use the key instead, it will shut up, and using the key to lock, then unlock it with the button is fine as well.

One thing I forgot to mention, in a short period of time, if I lock the door with the remote button and unlock it, the alarm will not goes off, but I had not test the time frame of it.
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2013, 06:37 AM
esilvas esilvas is offline
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I had a similar, but reversed situation. When I used my key in the door, it would set off my alarm. I had to use my key because it is no longer charging. (I am a little upset about that since I had to buy this key in the last month because my last one was not charging. Looks like it's not the key, but something else.)

I pulled the alarm system fuse and it went off. But, after putting it back, I no longer had a problem. I have no idea what that did to the alarm system, but it no longer goes off when I use the key to unlock my car.
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  #5  
Old 02-25-2013, 06:45 AM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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I agreed, no it is not the keys, I had 3 sets of keys and they all do the same thing, I had tried re-setting it, still happens, pull the battery for over 3 hours, no luck. If I lock it and unlock it right away, the alarm will not goes off, I think there is something wrong with the system after the car goes to sleep. I will try your trick, but seems like there is a bunch of fuses related to the alarm, which one did you take out?
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:41 AM
esilvas esilvas is offline
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I believe it was Fuse #48 (Anti-theft alarm system), which is a 5amp one.
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  #7  
Old 02-25-2013, 08:06 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Have you paid attention to the red LED (clown nose) to see if it is telling you that one of the monitors is not working?

There are a series of flashes that indicate if the alarm is set and if there's an issue....see the chart below...then take note of all the situations that have been presented. Check right after arming the system (manually & remotely) and also check the red LED BEFORE disarming the DWA system (manually & remotely). You might be able to tell if the alarm is going to sound off:

Remember the key has 3 features...EWS/FZV/DWA....the problems presented in this thread seem to be DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) related...not EWS or FZV. Although FZV (central locking system) hasn't been ruled out yet.






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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:03 AM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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Great tips, QSilver7! I do had the Rapid flashing of the indicator.
I will check all those sensors an see if it works, and report back.
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2013, 04:19 AM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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OK, here is an update, checked 4 doors and hood sensor, re-try the remote button. Now the rapid flashing is gone. I was able to not have the alarm goes off this morning. But there are 2 other times the alarm will still goes off. It is kind of strange, the alarm did not goes off right away like it use to be, there is some delay for 2-3 seconds before it goes off, it's like you thought it was fixed, then it just comes right back.

As I recalled, there was once I got the seat belt stuck betweens the door and the body and ever since it start doing it. See how it goes tomorrow.
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  #10  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:56 PM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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Now I notices that the alarm will not goes of when I press the remote button, it will goes off after I open the door.
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  #11  
Old 03-20-2013, 07:18 AM
Ed Cheung Ed Cheung is offline
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Here is the latest updated, I had not use the remote key to lock the car for a while, but decided to try it again last week and now it is working properly. My guess is one of the door's switch is acting up.and here is what I did.
I did not replace anything, just checked all 4 doors switch the hood switch and open and close the trunk a few times. And used the remote to lock the door and unlock it, then the alarm goes off again( not a surprise). For some reason, when the alarm is still going off, I decided to stick the key in the IGN and turned it to position II, then miracle happened, the alarm shut itself, and ever since the remote button is working properly.

BTW, special thanks to Q for the hint for checking the lights at the mirror for error.
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2013, 08:14 AM
esilvas esilvas is offline
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Glad you got it fixed. Now if I can only figure out why my panic button does not work, it would be great.
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2015, 04:50 AM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is online now
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Further to post #11. I've been researching this same issue (alarm goes off when remote unlock is used) especially since I seem to be unable to turn off the alarm and must wait for it to shut off after 45 seconds or so. The process is posted here

Quote:
Originally Posted by adevans View Post
A massive thank you to JimLev for his post on this thread on how to reset / emergency disarm the alarm on a 5 series E39.
To save anyone else hunting for the instructions, here's how you reset / emergency disable the alarm;

Quote:
Emergency disarming
It may be possible that the antitheft alarm system (DWA) can no longer be disarmed in the event of the remote control or central locking systems failing. In this case, the DWA must be disarmed, however, this procedure triggers an alarm.

Procedure:

Unlock driver's door mechanically and open, an alarm is triggered, the status LED flashes.

Close all doors, the boot lid/tailgate and the bonnet. Also close the windows on vehicles with window monitoring.

Switch ignition lock from position 0 to position 1 (terminal R ON), the status LED lights.

The system is disarmed after a waiting time of 10 minutes has elapsed, the status LED goes out.

The emergency disarming procedure is terminated if a door is opened or the ignition lock position changed during this waiting period.

Emergency disarming is restarted when, after closing the door, the ignition lock is switched from "0" to "1"
Just to clarify, the status LED referred to above is the big red indicator underneath the rear view mirror. I just got myself a cup of tea and then opened the drivers door with the key in the door - which activated the alarm, I got in, closed the door, put the key in ignition and turned to position 1 and then sat there for 10 mins drinking my tea. As soon as I turned the key in the ignition the status LED stopped flashing and went solid on and shortly after that the alarm siren stopped and then at exactly 10mins the status LED went off. So the process and results were just as JimLev described.

Last edited by gmak2012; 04-27-2015 at 04:52 AM.
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2015, 01:44 PM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is online now
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I tried the above on my car - NADA. I disconnected ground at the battery (alarm briefly sounded) and then pulled fuse 46 and hooked the battery back up. The remote lock /unlock function worked BUT there were no flashing lights. I disconnected the battery,, and plugged back in the fuse, hooked the battery back up and no alarm when locking and unlocking.

I'm chasing down a parasitic battery drain at the same time so things are getting complicated. I'll post when I get a chance to test the alarm by unlocking the car after it's been sitting a while.
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2015, 02:29 PM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is online now
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Wrong place for the post.


Probably test the alarm again tomorrow night.

Last edited by gmak2012; 04-27-2015 at 03:06 PM.
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  #16  
Old 04-28-2015, 03:53 PM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is online now
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Aaaaargh. Alarm still goes off when unlocking the car with remote. I guess the only solution is to change the siren, assuming that something has happened to the battery. Meanwhile, I now have a volume related rattle from the Sub-woofer. With NO music on, it's sort of popping. The sound disappears when I turn down the volume using the steering wheel. Is this some sort of feedback on the channel because the DSP volume is somehow too high? (music from the Dynavin N6 is normal volume).
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:11 AM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is online now
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I changed the siren and the problem is solved. DIY took about 30 minutes but most of that was wrestling with the liner to get the 2 screws back in on the front of the wheel well... Now that I've had a good look at the exposed metal, I'm going to clean it up and use some kind of chemical neutralizer on the surface rust at the front bottom of the wheel well; and then, I'm going to prime and paint with some kind of undercoating before putting the liner back in.
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  #18  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:11 AM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is online now
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Also bought a new (used ) DSP amp and the sub-woofer issue is gone.
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