I now have the codes to go w/symptoms....

I had them read at Autozone just to get a quick point in the general direction....
Here they are...
PO420
PO133
P1421
P1423

Last time i pulled codes at indy they were for O2 sensor bank 2 pre cat (I replaced that)
Secondary air pump hose (I replaced that)
and one for catalytic converter (have not replaced that.).
I've also replaced the the header manifold that the bank 2 sensor screws into cuz it was cracked and I changed both flange gaskets . I've also changed the ccv .
My symptoms are just a real noticeable loss of power. Used to when Id floor it it would down shift and take off....now it doesn't matter if you stomp the gas or not it just gradually accelerates. The car runs good...smooth idle....quiet....it just doesn't have that "umph" it used to have. I hope these codes help...even if you don't know the cause maybe tell me what the codes mean. Thanks as always !

P0420 = catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1.

P0133 = O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1.

P1421 = Secondary Air System Bank 1

P1423 = I found no code like this. Do you mean P1432? If so, Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected.

Looks like the air injection system is malfunctioning. If you fix that, the other codes may go away.

+1 although the SAP system should have no impact on your engine's performance. It functions only at cold start to help burn emmissions more efficiently.

Last time i pulled codes it was pre cat o2 bank 2 sensor , cats and secondary air pump. I changed the o2 bank 2 sensor and now that code is gone....should I change the bank 1 sensor or concentrate strictly on the secondary air pump and save my $100 on the sensor ? I understand what the secondary air system does , but not too familiar with how it works. . Is there a common fail point that I should start wiith ??? Im gonna start my searches and read everything I can find on it, but a nudge in one direction or the other couldn't hurt right ???

How recent was the absence of "umph" noted? You may be overdue for new VANOS seals. When the seals fail, the car will not have the low-end torque, since the cam is not being advanced properly. Visit www.beisansystems.com

How old are the O2 sensors? The cats?

The cause of SAP pump failure is usually the check valve failing to close, allowing hot exhaust to enter the SAP, which then condenses and drains into the pump, killing it. Open the hood and start up the car when dead cold. If you hear the SAP pump (front of passnger wheel well) fire up, it still works. It should shut off in 60-90 seconds. If it doesn't fire up, you will need to replace the pump and the valve. If the pump works, check the vacuum line to the SAP valve to see if it is cracked. It runs over the hot exhaust manifold, which causes the old rubber tubing to crack over time. If there is a vacuum in the vacuum tube on a cold start, the balance of the system (vac pump, etc.) is fine.

Originally Posted by edjack

How recent was the absence of "umph" noted? You may be overdue for new VANOS seals. When the seals fail, the car will not have the low-end torque, since the cam is not being advanced properly. Visit www.beisansystems.com

How old are the O2 sensors? The cats?

I've noticed it for a few weeks maybe a month. I changed pre cat bank 2 about 6 months ago. The hose on the secondary air pump had been replaced with a piece of heater hose by previous owner. It was all kinked up so I replaced that too. That's also when the header manifold on the bank 2 side was replaced. Im sure its vanos seal time too... my vcg is leaking so Ill hit em both. The cats are probably the original ones.....

Originally Posted by Fudman

The cause of SAP pump failure is usually the check valve failing to close, allowing hot exhaust to enter the SAP, which then condenses and drains into the pump, killing it. Open the hood and start up the car when dead cold. If you hear the SAP pump (front of passnger wheel well) fire up, it still works. It should shut off in 60-90 seconds. If it doesn't fire up, you will need to replace the pump and the valve. If the pump works, check the vacuum line to the SAP valve to see if it is cracked. It runs over the hot exhaust manifold, which causes the old rubber tubing to crack over time. If there is a vacuum in the vacuum tube on a cold start, the balance of the system (vac pump, etc.) is fine.

Sounds good.... Im off this weekend and expecting great weather so im all over it !

The SAP does come on and then shut off after roughly 90 sec. I just recently replaced the 3/4" hose (I estimate 3/4) that comes with the bends already in it (a poor description but Im sure you know the hose im referring to) . So as soon as the sun gets up Ill do a visual inspection and then leave it off so I can do another cold start later to check the vacuum .