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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 06-02-2013, 09:06 AM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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A rather silly set of questions

1. I'm getting a "low washer fluid" warning on the dash. Can someone tell me where the fill area is for an e34 with an M60B30?

I see a clear container with blue liquid in it. The only thing stopping me from filling it is that I know BMW coolant is blue, I wouldn't want to fill that with washer fluid.

2. While I'm posting this thread, I might as well ask. Where do you fill it with coolant?

3. Also, is it normal for the M60B30 to have an intermittent tick? I added a 1/2 quart of oil to get it to the full line but it stayed the same. The car has been using Mobil 1 for quite a while according to my uncle (previous owner). It looks pretty clean under the oil cap.

4. I jumped started the car and now the radio won't even turn on. Prior to this, the battery had been changed and it caused the radio to say "code" on the screen. Now it won't even turn on. FWIW, I removed the glove box light fuse.

I probably could've found these answers in the manual, but it's in the glove box, which is broken shut.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2013, 09:16 AM
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Passenger side fender-1
Center of firewall above engine in engine compartment-2
Mine also has a tick, it has since i got it-3
cant help-4
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2013, 10:59 AM
sse34 sse34 is offline
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A rather silly set of questions

1. That is the washer fluid container

2. Is the cap in the center on your window above the tranny

3. Old style m60s always will have tick no matter what

4. If you typed the code in wrong 3 times The radio went into lock out mode or whatever ... If you have the code do the next step if not get the radios serial number and go to your local BMW dealer and they will give It to you .. If you have it then turn your key on run and let the car sit for one hour .. The car will then think the radio is not being stolen and reset ... Type in the code and done

If none of this happen then check the fuse maybe it popped


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Last edited by sse34; 06-02-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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  #4  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:01 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Thank you both. It cleared things up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sse34 View Post
3. Old style m60s always will have tick no matter what
By old style M60's do you mean the V8's before the M62?

Since this thread is still going, I have a couple more questions...

1. When I press the brakes hard at speeds of under ~30MPH, I hear a clunking type sound. I'm guessing that the pads are rattling in the calipers. Any input is helpful though.

2. What brand pads do you guys recommend? Bosch perhaps?

3. I'm thinking the E-brake is too tight. When I release the e-brake a creaky grinding sound can be heard from the rear wheels. Any tips on how this can be fixed? The e-brake holds the car but it's not a very classy sound.

4. Fluids. It is currently using Mobil1 5W30. It seems to run good. Is this the recommended weight? Also, does anyone know BMW's oil change interval for these cars from 1995? I'm guessing 5000 miles, 3000 mile OCI's seem a bit outdated if you ask me. Also, what type of fluid is used for the transmission(auto)? And the differential?

5. This is kind of embarrassing to ask, but how do you change the time on the clock? Every time I put in the correct time it seems that the computer refuses to accept it, when I switch to another mode such as temp and go back, the set time is gone.

6. What does the A-M button next to the gear select do? Is it a sport mode? How is it engaged?

Thanks again.
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  #5  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:06 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sse34 View Post
4. If you typed the code in wrong 3 times The radio went into lock out mode or whatever ... If you have the code do the next step if not get the radios serial number and go to your local BMW dealer and they will give It to you .. If you have it then turn your key on run and let the car sit for one hour .. The car will then think the radio is not being stolen and reset ... Type in the code and done
That's the thing, I never typed in a code wrong. I just jump started the car and it never worked again. The last time I saw anything on the screen was when the car started for the first time after the dead battery. I just seemed like the entire LCD lit up and when the car began running it blanked out, never to turn on again.
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  #6  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:45 PM
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=699069 ---6
Set your time then press s/r, and it is set ---5
My e brake engages at last click, and holds car tight, it also make a screeching and other sounds when released---3
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:55 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95-540sport View Post
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=699069 ---6
Set your time then press s/r, and it is set ---5
My e brake engages at last click, and holds car tight, it also make a screeching and other sounds when released---3
Thank you. I guess the s/r means set/reset.
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  #8  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3RZ View Post
Thank you. I guess the s/r means set/reset.
Correct
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  #9  
Old 06-02-2013, 08:05 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3RZ View Post
.... 1. When I press the brakes hard at speeds of under ~30MPH, I hear a clunking type sound. I'm guessing that the pads are rattling in the calipers. Any input is helpful though.
99.9% guarantee that your thrust arm bushings are shot. In fact, if you have someone outside the car look at the front wheel when you stab the brakes doing about 10 mph, they will likely see the wheel move slightly rearward in the wheel well. Been there, done that.

Edit: Forgot to add that most of your questions are covered in the owner's manual. Here is a link to where you can download it:

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/5-s...0-a-42558.html
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 06-02-2013 at 08:09 PM.
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  #10  
Old 06-02-2013, 10:52 PM
sse34 sse34 is offline
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A rather silly set of questions

1. I would check to make sure the caliper bolts are all tight when the are gettin loose it will make a clunk sound.. Don't ask me how I know this -_-

2. Akebono are on my car now with brembo rotors I got from fcpgroton.com and I'm happy with them but the no longer sell them in this combo I think it's Bosch brembo now

3. Idk sounds normal to me ... Might be just a little rusty in the mechanism

4. I use 10w30 but winter time I use 5w
And I change the oil between 3k and 5k I try to do it every 3k because I can feel the difference in the motor ... To add I've owned the car since new and has 211k on the clock with no tranny or motor rebuild ..


As for the ticking comment ... I heard that from a very reliable source that it won't go away because in these old engines they were designed with something or whatever that makes that noise ...


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  #11  
Old 06-04-2013, 03:39 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
99.9% guarantee that your thrust arm bushings are shot. In fact, if you have someone outside the car look at the front wheel when you stab the brakes doing about 10 mph, they will likely see the wheel move slightly rearward in the wheel well. Been there, done that.

Edit: Forgot to add that most of your questions are covered in the owner's manual. Here is a link to where you can download it:

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/5-s...0-a-42558.html
Thanks for the info and for that link. I saved the manual on my computer. I'll look into the thrust arm bushing this coming weekend. If they are bad, can the bushing be replaced or do I need to purchase the entire arm? Do you have a link to your recommended part?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sse34 View Post
1. I would check to make sure the caliper bolts are all tight when the are gettin loose it will make a clunk sound.. Don't ask me how I know this -_-

2. Akebono are on my car now with brembo rotors I got from fcpgroton.com and I'm happy with them but the no longer sell them in this combo I think it's Bosch brembo now

3. Idk sounds normal to me ... Might be just a little rusty in the mechanism

4. I use 10w30 but winter time I use 5w
And I change the oil between 3k and 5k I try to do it every 3k because I can feel the difference in the motor ... To add I've owned the car since new and has 211k on the clock with no tranny or motor rebuild ..


As for the ticking comment ... I heard that from a very reliable source that it won't go away because in these old engines they were designed with something or whatever that makes that noise ...


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I'll take a look at the caliper bolts. If it makes any difference, the car just got a new master cylinder installed. Do you know where the e-brake mechanism can be lubed? Would silicone spray be an acceptable product for that? I'll take a look at FCP, I'm familiar with them for Volvo parts.

___________________________________________

On a side note, my radio never turned back on. Maybe it got killed somehow while the car was jumped?

Last edited by 3RZ; 06-04-2013 at 03:42 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2013, 04:34 PM
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Thrust arm bushings can be replaced, but if the bushing is worn out, then likely the ball joint is not far behind. If you do find that the bushings are bad and plan to replace the thrust arms, it goes without saying to replace both of them.

I would recommend you get Myele or Lemforder. IIRC, Lemforders come without the bushing. The have to be pressed in, but this gives you the option of using bushings that are more stout (i.e. 740 bushings or M5 bushings).

If you DIY, make sure to read the proper pre-loading procedure in the Bentley manual. This will be critical to the length of life of the new bushings. The manual can be downloaded in the link that I provided earlier.

Please do make sure to check for bushing integrity before you replace them on my recommendation. I will say that, when mine were shot so bad that I had the clunk with slow speed braking and the famous 55 mph shimmy, the bushing didn't seem visually compromised, but they were really shot from a functional perspective.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #13  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:44 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Thrust arm bushings can be replaced, but if the bushing is worn out, then likely the ball joint is not far behind. If you do find that the bushings are bad and plan to replace the thrust arms, it goes without saying to replace both of them.

I would recommend you get Myele or Lemforder. IIRC, Lemforders come without the bushing. The have to be pressed in, but this gives you the option of using bushings that are more stout (i.e. 740 bushings or M5 bushings).

If you DIY, make sure to read the proper pre-loading procedure in the Bentley manual. This will be critical to the length of life of the new bushings. The manual can be downloaded in the link that I provided earlier.

Please do make sure to check for bushing integrity before you replace them on my recommendation. I will say that, when mine were shot so bad that I had the clunk with slow speed braking and the famous 55 mph shimmy, the bushing didn't seem visually compromised, but they were really shot from a functional perspective.
Yep, I downloaded that Bentley manual as well. I was actually about to buy it, thanks for saving me $$$! I'll probably look into the Meyle brand parts. I watched a video that was conveniently talking about E34 parts and it stated that they come with 750 "style" bushings- whatever that means. The Meyle's do seem reasonably priced for my needs.

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  #14  
Old 06-05-2013, 03:49 AM
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to solve the tick, there is a product i buy here called MLB8. I have used it in all sorts of BMWs and its quietened the valvetrain right down. currently have some in my M70.

if you cant buy that, DONT buy the alternative that your autosupplier will try and sell you instead. Go to your local Mitsubishi dealer and get the product they use in the services of their mitsubishi vehicles. the late 1990s early 2000s mitsubishis are very well known for their ticking problems, and BMW use a system virtually identical just more reliable.

both options arent cheap at all, but much cheaper than replacing/regrinding a cam etc later down the line. I usually dont believe in oil and petrol additives, but this is the only exception i know of to date
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  #15  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:53 AM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_ View Post
to solve the tick, there is a product i buy here called MLB8. I have used it in all sorts of BMWs and its quietened the valvetrain right down. currently have some in my M70.

if you cant buy that, DONT buy the alternative that your autosupplier will try and sell you instead. Go to your local Mitsubishi dealer and get the product they use in the services of their mitsubishi vehicles. the late 1990s early 2000s mitsubishis are very well known for their ticking problems, and BMW use a system virtually identical just more reliable.

both options arent cheap at all, but much cheaper than replacing/regrinding a cam etc later down the line. I usually dont believe in oil and petrol additives, but this is the only exception i know of to date
I'm familiar with the Mitsubishi problem. Thanks for the tip. From everything I've read, the tick seems very normal.
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  #16  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:58 AM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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BMR_LVR, you were 100% correct on the thrust arm bushings being bad. That front right wheel moves like crazy, the left doesn't move much though. I'll still replace them in pairs.

Oh, and the radio issue has been solved. For reference, in a 1995 530i, the #18 fuse is for the glove box light as well as the radio.

It also appears that my washer fluid bottle is cracked. I parked the car in the garage and when I checked it in the morning, the entire garage floor was wet. It seems the pump for the window washer is dead too.

Also can someone tell me the type of bulb needed for the front fog lights?

Thank you everyone.
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  #17  
Old 06-21-2013, 10:28 AM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Bump.. I've got a couple of silly questions.

Again on a 1995 530i, where do you fill the transmission after a drain and fill. I know on other vehicles that you fill through the dipstick tube. I don't think there is a dipstick on this thing.

Oh, and Dexron 3 or above is the appropriate fluid to use in the transmission as well as the power steering, correct? Oh, and I have the servotronic steering if there is any mechanical difference.
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  #18  
Old 06-21-2013, 10:35 AM
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I believe that is the correct fluid, you drain, check level AND fill the trans under the car, there are little ports on the side of the trans, a quick google search will show pics, and descriptions of them.
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  #19  
Old 06-21-2013, 12:00 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Wow. That's annoying. Looks like I'll need to buy a tool to pump fluid in.
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  #20  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:36 PM
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It is annoying, it is what has kept me from checking mine.
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  #21  
Old 06-21-2013, 06:50 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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I'm thinking mine could use a good fluid change. It isn't doing anything out of the ordinary, but I feel that it could be shifting a little smoother than how it does now.
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  #22  
Old 06-21-2013, 07:04 PM
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I almost don't notice mine shift, if it was not for the rpm drop i would not notice it, the only thing was before it acted like it was slipping, but that has gone away. A change could not really hurt it.
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:59 AM
sse34 sse34 is offline
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A rather silly set of questions

Do not change your power steering fluid until you check your cap on the reservoir it will tell you what you need ... Pretty sure all 530i's like mine take hydraulic fluid which is not tranny fluid


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  #24  
Old 06-22-2013, 01:29 PM
3RZ 3RZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sse34 View Post
Do not change your power steering fluid until you check your cap on the reservoir it will tell you what you need ... Pretty sure all 530i's like mine take hydraulic fluid which is not tranny fluid


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Thanks for the heads up. Btw, are you in north NJ? Like by Paramus? I always see this nice silver (I think) E34 Touring.
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