DIY Integrated Supply Module IVM does not start Fix Free - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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  #1  
Old 05-10-2015, 09:43 AM
750Li-2007 750Li-2007 is offline
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Location: Missouri
 
Join Date: May 2015
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Mein Auto: 2007 750Li
DIY Integrated Supply Module IVM does not start Fix Free

Hello All,

I am new to this forum and all forums for that matter and this is my wife’s first BMW and 30 days after buying from the dealer the car would not start this morning. The reason was “Transmission Fault Drive Moderately, with all of the gears showing on the dash”. After some research I concluded that the culprit was the notorious Integrated Supply Module or IVM. This is a $100 part that is a common problem from the factory. There is a solder point in the manufacturing process that is cold and is susceptible to cracks. When this happens when you hit a bump or close a door just right the car will not start and act very strange. This can be fixed with the below instructions

This is not a fix all however, this is a common problem and a Free fix as long as you have the following tools. Please read all instructions below and if you have any questions before tackling this please ask or PM me. I accept no responsibility for damages caused by your actions and I am not a BMW mechanic. I am not a mechanic at all really just a DIY’er that loves to save money any way possible.
If you have any questions please ask.

Tools requires
10 mm Socket
2” extension
Ratchet
5 mm Allen Wrench (it is easier if it has the Multi-Angle head)
Soldering Iron
Solder

Time around 30 minutes.

1. First locate the cabin air filter on the passenger side just below the windshield.
2. Remove the cabin air filter by pushing in on the tab and pulling laterally away from the car. (my tab was broken by a previous “mechanic” so please do not break it)
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1431275962
3. Next remove the 10 mm bolt under the clip that you had to push in to remove the cabin filter.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1431275997
4. Next remove the ~7 bolts that are 5 mm Allen head
5. Locate the IVM or Integrated Supply Module and remove by pushing in the two white clips and pulling upwards.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1431276033
6. Remove the 6 wire clips (each one is different just take your time and remove gently
7. Next warm up the soldering iron and move the module to a clean environment.
***Warning DO NOT TOUCH ANY SOLDER POINT OR ANY PART OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD WITH YOUR FINGER AS STATIC ELECTRICITY CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO THE BOARD***
8. Remove the top black covering by placing something flat (butter knives work great) on one side and pull up gently then repeat for the other side.
9. Locate the cracked solder point below.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1431276072
10. Re-Solder the cracked solder point using caution as to not apply too much heat.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1431276100
11. Allow to cool and replace the black cover and reassemble the car in reverse order
12. Enjoy a free fix that many before you have sent THOUSANDS of dollars._a__a2_
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2015, 05:32 AM
riff riff is offline
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Location: Portsmouth, NH
 
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Posts: 129
Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
Excellent write up. One word of advice - disconnect the battery first and wait 20 minutes (airbags) before starting the project.
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2016, 02:30 PM
lozzmeister lozzmeister is offline
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Location: london
 
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Mein Auto: e31.e38.e39.e65
free fix

one thing i will say is that when you open the relay up with the dry joint (starter relay) you will find the contacts are allways burnt out and worn

so your best to replace the ivm or all 7 relays if you can get them
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  #4  
Old 01-23-2016, 04:58 PM
autor autor is offline
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Location: Houston
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 43
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by lozzmeister View Post
one thing i will say is that when you open the relay up with the dry joint (starter relay) you will find the contacts are allways burnt out and worn

so your best to replace the ivm or all 7 relays if you can get them
Lozzmeister,
when pressing Start button, if we hear the click noise from the relay, it means IVM is good?
any idea of diagnosis on IVM? which replay is the one control the +V to starter? Thx

Last edited by autor; 01-23-2016 at 05:03 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2016, 12:25 AM
lozzmeister lozzmeister is offline
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Mein Auto: e31.e38.e39.e65
None start ivm

It's the same relay as shown with the poor solder joint

These are hard to get hold of

I found similar ones in eBay
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2016, 10:21 AM
autor autor is offline
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Location: Houston
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 43
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by lozzmeister View Post
It's the same relay as shown with the poor solder joint

These are hard to get hold of

I found similar ones in eBay
Thanks
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2017, 01:58 PM
adarling adarling is offline
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Location: Temecula, CA
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 2007 650i
Thank you so much! I pulled out the IVM, found the one solder bad, and fixed it! Car starts every time now! Saved me a bundle!
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  #8  
Old 03-30-2017, 10:39 AM
mintyfresh mintyfresh is offline
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Location: Colorado
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 2007 750i
Very manageable

For those wondering if they can do this repair, I wanted to briefly share my experience.

I have a 750i that had a few intermittent failures to start. The dash would light up but it wouldn't crank, so I found this thread and decided to swap out the IVM. I figured the part wasn't that expensive ($99 new) and it was probably going to fail at some point anyway given the age.

I opened my air box, which takes 30 seconds. Then I started unscrewing the hex head bolts. These were a little tricky because of where they were positioned. I had to unbolt the little plastic retainer clip for the air box from the frame using a 10mm ratchet. Once the plastic clip was out of the way, the rest of the bolts were easy. Total time maybe 15 minutes.

With the plastic cover off, I could see the IVM and other relays plain as day. I used a sharpie to label the plugs T1 to T5 from left to right so I wouldn't screw up the order in some way. I think one of the plugs is not distinct.

With the top 5 plugs unplugged and pushed out of the way, the black plastic IVM module sort of lifts and twists out of the way. I took a picture with my phone so I wouldn't forget how to do this. I then labeled and removed the bottom 4 plugs. The only trick with the plugs is to push in to slide down the little sticky outy protector to remove and, then, when replacing, open the sticky outy thing all the way so it clears and snaps in. Total time here was 10 minutes.

My IVM was original from 2005, so it felt like a wise thing to have done. Looking at the box, it was clean and free of debris, though I wonder how. The IVM module itself seems pretty flimsy and I can see how the heat and cold would cause it to expand and contract and eventually fail.

I wiggled the IVM to ensure it was in securely, then buttoned everything back up in reverse order. The whole process took less than an hour. When I put everything back together, it started right up. We'll have to see if there are any other failures in the future, but I am hopeful to have fixed the problem.

Hopefully, this post will give someone else the confidence to try the repair. Thanks to everyone for helping me diagnose the issue.
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diy, free, integrated supply module, ivm, no start, transmission fault, transmission fault light.


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