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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-28-2013, 03:13 PM
s2kpunisher s2kpunisher is offline
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Location: West LA
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
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Mein Auto: 540i
Just got a E39 99' 540i but have a few Qs

I just picked up a 99' 540i/6 and am loving every minute I drive it. So far the three issues I've ran into are:

1) several dead pixels on the dash, would it be cheaper to repair it or replace?

2) Rear window stopped rolling down/up, I can hear the motor run but it sounds like it slipped and makes loud thud sounds. Any DIY links to remove the panel and maybe realign the window?

3) Trunk shock mounts are shot, it feels very heavy to open the trunk, any cheap repair to this or just replacing them woudl be best?

BTW, I come from a long line of Mercedes (CLK500, S55, C55, etc.) and my experience so far is I've found the ultimate driving machine!
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2013, 03:47 PM
Bwood1 Bwood1 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1999 528i, 2002 540i
I can help with several of the issues-

Ihave a 2002 540ia with sunscreens. I am guessing the slides are broken off the arms (typical) It sounds like the arms are stuck under the "parcel shelf and the screen may be stopping them from comming up. I would fish the screen out and put something heavy on it to keep it from rolling back in temporarily. Then fish the arms somewhat out so they can clear the shelf and cycle it (key on and push the button). If the arms cycle up without the screen, you need new aluminum slides. If the arms don't cycle up and down, you need to remove the parcel shelf" and investigare further what has broken. If you need the slides, PM me and I will find the email address for the guy on ebay. They are about $50 for 2 but you have no other choice.

The trunk just needs new shocks. They are very easy to install.

Good luck
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  #3  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:06 PM
senser senser is offline
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Mein Auto: 540i/6 E39
Bigwood1 I think he's talking about the rear window regulators, not the sun shade. OP the window regulators are poorly designed and I had to replace mine a week after I got my car. They're not that difficult to replace, and I got mine from FCP euro parts which is a lot less expensive than the dealership ones.

As for the sun shade tabs, which isn't one of op's issues, li-customs makes a good kit for the repair.

Immediately stop using the rear windows at all because that might wear out the motor, search the very first post on the E39 forum here and you will find a feew guides on replacing the rear window regulators.

Trunk shocks are super easy to replace.

Dead pixel repair is a send out thing, and I'm sure that it's cheaper to fix rather than replace the whole unit.
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  #4  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:45 PM
JKRIT JKRIT is offline
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If the dead pixels include the ones for the odometer, you may find the dealer willing to split the cost with you because that is a defect that may come under state odometer-tampering laws. On mine, I think I paid for the new cluster and the dealer paid for the labor (or visa versa). Way out of warranty at the time. You need this cluster to be installed by a dealer who can reset the new odometer to the general module so that you don't get the odometer-tamper red light turned on.
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2013, 08:11 PM
s2kpunisher s2kpunisher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senser View Post
Bigwood1 I think he's talking about the rear window regulators, not the sun shade. OP the window regulators are poorly designed and I had to replace mine a week after I got my car. They're not that difficult to replace, and I got mine from FCP euro parts which is a lot less expensive than the dealership ones.
Is this the DIY for my rear passenger window problem?

The issue I am having is I hear the motor but after awhile I hear a loud thud as if its trying to catch something but slips.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1505725
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  #6  
Old 01-28-2013, 11:50 PM
senser senser is offline
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That link/DIY shows you what's involved with it, but doesn't go far enough to remove the window regulator. Don't press the button to operate the window anymore. The motor working sound shows that the motor is okay, but the thumping just means the window regulator cable snapped. The whole regulator assembly can be replaced while the motor is reused.
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  #7  
Old 01-29-2013, 07:59 AM
s2kpunisher s2kpunisher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senser View Post
That link/DIY shows you what's involved with it, but doesn't go far enough to remove the window regulator. Don't press the button to operate the window anymore. The motor working sound shows that the motor is okay, but the thumping just means the window regulator cable snapped. The whole regulator assembly can be replaced while the motor is reused.
OK, I'm guessing the regulator cable and the window regulator are one part? So I'll just have to swap in a new window regular?
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  #8  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:07 AM
mbell666 mbell666 is offline
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Mein Auto: e39 2002 540i6
Yes. straight forward job really. Worse part is removing the glue that hold the vapor barrier in place.

Look on this as good op to fix two common faults in one go, window regulator and leaking rear door due to vapor barrier glue failing. So just make sure you clean the glue of and replace it, or you get a puddle in the back foot well hen it rains.
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An e39 is like a beautiful wife, needs constant attention, lots of money, lets you down at the worse times but you’d never be without it.
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  #9  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:08 AM
s2kpunisher s2kpunisher is offline
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Location: West LA
 
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Mein Auto: 540i
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKRIT View Post
If the dead pixels include the ones for the odometer, you may find the dealer willing to split the cost with you because that is a defect that may come under state odometer-tampering laws. On mine, I think I paid for the new cluster and the dealer paid for the labor (or visa versa). Way out of warranty at the time. You need this cluster to be installed by a dealer who can reset the new odometer to the general module so that you don't get the odometer-tamper red light turned on.
Infact I do have 3-4 dead pixels on the odometer but the miles is still very readable. Could you post or PM me how much a new cluster is? Did you go with OEM or the E39 M5 cluster?
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  #10  
Old 01-29-2013, 11:51 AM
JKRIT JKRIT is offline
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Mein Auto: '03 525i
The dealer called it a goodwill warranty replacement because the odometer was NOT legible. They replaced instrument 62-11-9-155-822 and charged me $135 for labor only in January 2010. The invoice also mentions that the mileage was 74923 and it was less than 8 years from inservice date, so those might have affected their goodwill warranty decision.
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