valve stem seals question

Well looks like I am going to have to do seals. Does anyone have a parts list for this job

I know seals
Valve cover seals
Cam cover seals I think
I know I need the alignment tool.

If you're taking the heads off, then you need head gaskets and head bolts. You will also need upper timing case cover gaskets and vanos gear bolts

I am planning on doing it with heads still on. In the car

That's how I usually do them also (I'm a BMW tech). I just did a set yesterday actually.... I needed the following: valve cover gasket set (comes w/ all o-rings and seals), upper timing case cover gaskets, vanos bolts, vacuum pump gaskets and of course the valve stem seals.

Great do you know if the bolts come in part 11127551822 or is overkill for this job. Do you find it fixes the oil consumption or is it a valve guide issue. We have 97k on the car. This is the wife's car so I got to do it right. Need this fix to last at least 60 k

I'll have to check that part number when I get a chance... If that number is for the gasket set, then it does not include the Vanos bolts. The seal replacement fixes the consumption issue about 90% of the time... I have had a couple cars that needed new heads due to excessive guide wear

Would you be so kind to post the part number for the bolts.

Valve cover gasket set bank 1:
11 12 7 513 194

Valve cover gasket set bank 2:
11 12 7 513 195

Vanos bolts:
11 36 7 501 423 (you will need 4)

P/n 11 12 7 551 822 will include the head gaskets, which you said you won't need. This part number does include the Vanos bolts

The p/n that I gave you does not include the valve stem seals

I came up with this as a break down does this look right to you

valve cover

11127513194
11127513195

Upper Timing Case seal
11147506424
11147506425

Vanos bolts
11367501423 x 4

Air pump seal
11667509080


Valve Seals
11340029751 x 2

Valve Keeper
11341461405 x 10

Cam seal ring
11311705512 x 4

Originally Posted by bmwoem1

The p/n that I gave you does not include the valve stem seals

So does part 11127551822 not come with the seals. I cant find a break down for the part.

Yes p/n 822 will come with the valve stem seals, also the head gaskets and some other o-rings you said you're not gonna need. Also, you listed the keepers and camshaft seals... I normally reuse the original ones

Thanks for the follow up..I added keeps just in case i drop one.. Its been awhile since I have done any seals. I wasnt sure on the camshaft seals. I think i will do the list since it a good bit cheaper than the p/n 822 I am planning doing this in next few weeks.

What sealant do you use. The TIS calls for Drei Bond 1209

That drei bond is really just loctite. But that goes in between the head gasket and the lower timing cover, you're not taking off the heads. If you're referring to the seal between the upper timing case covers and the valve cover gasket, then I use black silicone RTV. Do you have the right tools to do this with the heads still on the car? It's pretty tight in there, I've found a lot of tool sets that are too big for this particular engine

Cool I should have some black rtv. I didn't know how strict bmw was about sealant. Yeah I should have all the tools. I was Mercedes tech for 4 yrs before that Chevy for 5 yrs. Snap on got plenty of my money I actually kept all them. Thanks again for your help

I suggest you stay away from silicon RTV. IMHO, Permatex #2 is more appropriate for this job. I agree that the cam seal ring(s) does not need to be replaced. I also suggest following TIS when doing this job (specifically cam removal) as it gives important precautions on what to do and what NOT to do. Leaking valve seals usually contribute to carbon build-up in the secondary air ports. Removing the heads to replace the seals offers the opportunity to clean the carbon out of the secondary air ports. By the time you disassemble the head to get to the valve seals, removing the heads are just a few steps more work. Head gaskets are pricey, but new bolts are not. Probably adds about $250 in parts costs to remove heads.

I also have leaking seals and will be doing this work soon. I am debating head removal or not as my engine is throwing the "low flow secondary air bank 2) fault code. Carboned up for sure. AGA is supposedly comiing up with a cleaning kit, but will cost about $250 which is same as added parts cost to remove heads. What to do???????

He has a 750 (n62tu), So no secondary air ports to worry about.

Originally Posted by Davidf

I suggest you stay away from silicon RTV. IMHO, Permatex #2 is more appropriate for this job. I agree that the cam seal ring(s) does not need to be replaced. I also suggest following TIS when doing this job (specifically cam removal) as it gives important precautions on what to do and what NOT to do. Leaking valve seals usually contribute to carbon build-up in the secondary air ports. Removing the heads to replace the seals offers the opportunity to clean the carbon out of the secondary air ports. By the time you disassemble the head to get to the valve seals, removing the heads are just a few steps more work. Head gaskets are pricey, but new bolts are not. Probably adds about $250 in parts costs to remove heads.

I also have leaking seals and will be doing this work soon. I am debating head removal or not as my engine is throwing the "low flow secondary air bank 2) fault code. Carboned up for sure. AGA is supposedly comiing up with a cleaning kit, but will cost about $250 which is same as added parts cost to remove heads. What to do???????

So you're saying your 2006 bmw 760li with 17k miles needs valve seals???? Hmmm smth isn't right here, or am I wrong?? ) lol

Originally Posted by SFbay

So you're saying your 2006 bmw 760li with 17k miles needs valve seals???? Hmmm smth isn't right here, or am I wrong?? ) lol

LOL, that would be unusual for sure. I also have a '04 545i with 112k miles that needs valve seals. Same engine as the 745i(L). Sometimes I forget what forum I am posting on...7 or 5 series...

Originally Posted by bmwoem1

He has a 750 (n62tu), So no secondary air ports to worry about.

Hey bmwoem1

Is that cam tool really need or can I use a bolt the balance to put on TDC and mark the cam gears and chain. Trying to save the cash on the tool since I am sure this is the only one I am going to do.

Yes, the tool is needed to do it correctly without any issues. It's probably possible to do it without, but if the timing is off, then you will have to take everything apart again. There really isn't a spot to mark the gear to the cam, it's really close to the bearing cap. If you took off just the bearing cap and marked it, you would find the hook ring seals for the Vanos, I don't suggest you put anything on them.

Just a thought.... What if I rented them to you? PM me if you're interested

Originally Posted by Davidf

I suggest you stay away from silicon RTV. IMHO, Permatex #2 is more appropriate for this job. I agree that the cam seal ring(s) does not need to be replaced. I also suggest following TIS when doing this job (specifically cam removal) as it gives important precautions on what to do and what NOT to do. Leaking valve seals usually contribute to carbon build-up in the secondary air ports. Removing the heads to replace the seals offers the opportunity to clean the carbon out of the secondary air ports. By the time you disassemble the head to get to the valve seals, removing the heads are just a few steps more work. Head gaskets are pricey, but new bolts are not. Probably adds about $250 in parts costs to remove heads.

I also have leaking seals and will be doing this work soon. I am debating head removal or not as my engine is throwing the "low flow secondary air bank 2) fault code. Carboned up for sure. AGA is supposedly comiing up with a cleaning kit, but will cost about $250 which is same as added parts cost to remove heads. What to do???????

I see you are here in Austin. I am about to do the same thing, but I am definitely going to pull the heads to get at the carbon. I bought the cam alignment tools already. If you want to borrow them after I am done, let me know.