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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 01-29-2013, 10:27 AM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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Removing the Crankshaft Collar Bolt aka Jesus Bolt

Just pulled my Collar bolt off. You know the main bolt that holds on the Harmonic Balancer. Main issue here is getting the right pin inserted into the flywheel to lock down the Pulley from rotation. Most of the kits that are sold offer only the straight pin. For the 1998 740il you need the pin with a 90 degree bend. 20.00 on the net. The rest of the story is Home Depot. 4 ft Black Pipe 1 inch. Also a good 1 inch breaker bar (14 inches long)and a 1 inch IMPACT grade 27mm Socket. I soaked the bolt top with wd40 the night before. Got up this morning put the pipe together with the breaker bar. Positioned over the top 90% with the Hood still on, and literally gave it a slow bouncing torque. About 1 inch of movement at my hand. She came off like butter. She wanted me to take it off because I prepped her like a date When you dont prep she wont move. Just like a woman!

No horror stories here
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2013, 04:29 PM
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2013, 12:04 PM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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Re-Installing Jesus Bolt

Just to make sure there's no confusion posted a picture of my modified black pipe wrench. Here you will find a 10001bs of Torque is no problem. No Air compressor needed
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2013, 01:10 PM
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Did you rotate it counterclockwise to remove the jesus bolt. Ive read several different articles and there is no difinitive answer.. Ive seen some say, clockwise, some say counterclockwise, so which was it?
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2013, 01:31 PM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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It's clockwise to tighten. Just untightened it because I forgot 1 30 mm screw behind the middle of the water pump in the lower timing cover. Had to take the water pump off its a bear dealing with the pulley while screwing the WP back in. Nice to have pulley out of the way.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:38 PM
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Yeah, Im getting ready to pull the engine out of the car. Got everything off the front of the engine already and down to the final bolt. The Jesus bolt. Wanna get it off before i pull the engine out, Figure better leverage with it mounted to its mounts as opposed to on an engine stand..

Thanks for the info...
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  #7  
Old 07-05-2013, 01:54 PM
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Removing the Crankshaft Collar Bolt aka Jesus Bolt

Quote:
Originally Posted by nomoexes View Post
Just to make sure there's no confusion posted a picture of my modified black pipe wrench. Here you will find a 10001bs of Torque is no problem. No Air compressor needed
Jeebus! That is a lot of torque!


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  #8  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:10 AM
jjm750il jjm750il is offline
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I really need some help with this bolt - I have a 3/4" drive, 20" long breaker bar with an impact 27MM socket - that's all good but how do I stop the crank from rotating??? 1998 750IL - PLEASE HELP!!!???
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  #9  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:40 AM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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At the bell housing you have a 3/8 hole. You need to rotate the j bolt to OT hash mark. That will line up the hole with the hole in the fly wheel. You need to place a drill bit or something about 2 1/2 inches long to insert into the hole. I have mine which cost me 20.00. But it was designed for it. Send me email. Otherwise u can hit HD and try to find something.
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2013, 12:07 PM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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Also that 20inch breaker bar may not be enough. The J bolt could have 750-1000lbs of torque on it. Your probably going to need the Cheater Pipe. Cost you 10.00 at HD black pipe. Save your back and don't damage anything else. Just can't get that kind of torque unless you beat the crap out of your breaker bar with a 5 lb hammer and even that might not work.
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  #11  
Old 07-07-2013, 12:44 PM
jjm750il jjm750il is offline
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Thanks for the advice. I have a 4' bar on the end of the breaker bar. I'll try this slot in the bell housing too. Unfortunately, I broke the balancer! I feel like I'm losing this battle
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2013, 12:48 PM
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Do I have to actively press against this drill bit/whatever or just place it there? Again, thanks for your help!
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  #13  
Old 07-07-2013, 01:07 PM
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OK, I crawled under car to bell housing ans saw 4 holes. There was one on the driver's side of the car that looked like it had a "plate" in it. Do I push that? Since I broke the damper/balancer/crank pulley, I'm a little afraid of jamming something against the flywheel. Thanks and please let me know...you mentioned emailing you but I don't have an address.
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  #14  
Old 07-07-2013, 02:11 PM
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If you look at the upper oil pan, (what the oil pan mounts to) it continues all the way until it mounts into the bell housing. Just before the upper oil pan mounts to the bell housing you will see a small hole. It's about 10 o'clock in position. Thats where the flywheel can be seen ( with a dental mirror and a flashlight)
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2013, 02:22 PM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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My point of reference would be looking straight back from the front of the car. Their are 4 holes that go straight up that mount the upper oil pan to the block in the rear. The hole that holds the flywheel stationary is horizontal. How did you break the crank pulley? Curious.
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  #16  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:37 AM
jjm750il jjm750il is offline
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I broke it like this: 20" 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 4' helper bar attached to it, then tried to wedge a screwdriver between the damper and the old water pump..you would think it would've broken the damn screwdriver or water pump housing but noo...broke the only thing that would be nearly impossible to find and replace.
I wish there was a picture of where this peephole is located! You're saying its in a horizontal location back by the bellhousing, correct? OK, that's something to go on..you mentioned that the OT stamping should be aligned with hash mark, but what hash mark? The one at the bottom of the crank pulley in the middle of the oil pan? I really appreciate your ongoing help here, I'm dealing with a lot so I'd love to get this car off my plate, so to speak.
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  #17  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:55 AM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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Stopping the Crankshaft from turning

Here you go. Photos of the Pin to freeze the crank from turning and the OT Position to align the holes together so you can pass the pin thru the flywheel. Notice the $20 tool. You dont want to damage your flywheel.
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2013, 06:00 AM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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In the large hole, next to where the pin is located should be a Black rubber plug. I pulled mine out. Also the picture of the bottom of the car jacked up has the position of where this is located. All the way to the top right (whited piece from the flash) sorry.
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  #19  
Old 07-08-2013, 06:01 AM
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There is a hash mark on your harmonic balancer. Stamped on the lower timing chain cover is the TDC mark. You need to rotate the harmonic balancer (largest Pulley with jesus bolt) so that hash mark lines up with the TDC mark on the lower timing chain cover. If your cover is caked with crud, you may need to wipe it clean to see it. Once you have them lined up, the wholes in the flexplate and the bellhousing will line up together. If you are under the car from the front , you will see a rubber grommet(thats what ill call it) in the bellhousing. To the left of that grommet there is a whole. The pin can be inserted there, locking your flex plate into the top dead center position, essentially locking the engine and cams in place..

Ive read several articles stating that using this method isnt the best solution. But also read where people have been successful with it. I personally went and spent the 80 dollars on the tool from pelican parts. It bolts to the harmonic balancer collar. You can get the balancer off by undoing the 6-8 bolts holding it to the collar. They are hard to see, but can be done. This will expose the jesus bolt..

Hopefully this explanation helps you locate the whole for the pin
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2013, 06:59 AM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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Yes that's an option. However in the course of replacing my LOWER Timing cover and Waterpump I've actually taken it on and off 2 times using this method with great ease. Of course I was using an exact fit PIN to freeze the flywheel.
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  #21  
Old 07-08-2013, 07:04 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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Agreed. Ive definitely read several reports using both methods with success. Its all in the prep work before attempting to get it off. Thats for sure...
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  #22  
Old 07-08-2013, 07:11 AM
nomoexes nomoexes is offline
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I actually Tore the upper oil pan gasket when I took off the cover. Easy to do after 15 years. The Gasket almost becomes like a peice of plastic. Very brittle. Mine was also leaking. In the end I took off everything accept the Upper Oil pan and took it to a buddy who had a lift. Its the only SAFE way to get it out and put it back in (UpperOil Pan.) Unless your taking the complete engine out.
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  #23  
Old 07-08-2013, 07:49 AM
jjm750il jjm750il is offline
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OK, I think I've got the idea and placement now - thanks to all who contributed! I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
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  #24  
Old 07-08-2013, 07:51 AM
jjm750il jjm750il is offline
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Nomoexes - a special thank you for taking time out of your day and posting the pics! It's greatly appreciated!
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  #25  
Old 07-11-2013, 05:10 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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Not to bogart this thread. But victorious at last.
The bolt is a normal thread so thanks to all. Bought the special tool on Pelican Parts. Took some advice and soaked that bolt with liquid wrench over night.
Took me longer to put the special tool on the collar then it took to get the bolt off.

Once on, gave it two or three good pulls on my 3/4 inch breaker bar with the handle from my floor jack on the end. after about the 3rd pull, i heard the bolt break free. Readjusted the breaker bar 2 more times, and then it was hand loosen the rest of the way. total time to get the bolt loose and off, 2 minutes. total time to mount the tool and adjust to a position on the car for leverage 5 minutes. PREP PREP PREP.. thats all i can say. So glad this thing wasnt as hard as i had read about. the anticipation of a problem is sometimes far worse than the problem itself...
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