Questions on Inspection 2

When is this typically done? What is the average cost? And are all you guys getting it done or is it a waste of loot?

Seems to range from $300-900. IMO, at any of those prices its probably a rip-off (depedning on what the dealer does). According to the official BMW checklist:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...t=inspection+2

They basically check a bunch of stuff (although i'm sure most dealers don't even bother), do an oil service, and replace the air and cabin fliters. They don't do spark plugs, diff oil, trans oil, fuel filter, etc.

So basically, it's a waste of money??? It will not void your waranty if you do not have it done will it? I thought I heard that some where.

Ryan

Originally Posted by bluewater41

So basically, it's a waste of money??? It will not void your waranty if you do not have it done will it? I thought I heard that some where.

Ryan

IT would be very, very rare to find a car still under warranty that needed an inspection 2. Its usually around 60k miles. I would say, do it yourself and change the trans fluid, diff fluid and fuel filter at the same time.

well, i bought the extended warranty on my car and they sent me a notification for the inspection 2. i'm close to 59K. they are saying it's going to cost $700. basically, i just don't want the rest of my warranty to expire b/c i didn't take it in for the inspection.

Originally Posted by Bill97Z

When is this typically done? What is the average cost? And are all you guys getting it done or is it a waste of loot?

According to the Owners' Circle, the ONLY difference between Insp I & II is that II includes an air filter change. It's a total waste of money IMO. I did the oil change myself, followed the list of checks that they do and also changed the diff & tranny fluids with Red Line at about the same time. The "bill" came to ~ $50

Originally Posted by robg

Seems to range from $300-900. IMO, at any of those prices its probably a rip-off (depedning on what the dealer does). According to the official BMW checklist:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...t=inspection+2

They basically check a bunch of stuff (although i'm sure most dealers don't even bother), do an oil service, and replace the air and cabin fliters. They don't do spark plugs, diff oil, trans oil, fuel filter, etc.

THEY DONT DO SPARG PLUGS???????

HM, who told you that?????

From my knowledge, the INSPECTION II is THE BIG SERVICE, and on the M54s is supposed to be every 60k miles!!!

This is the most important service of all, guys. (aside the OIL CHANGE)
DEPENDING ON use of the vehicle, INSPECTION II must be done from 55-65k miles. (DONT NEGLECT IT!!! IT INCLUDES NEW SPARG PLUGS, NEW FUEL FILTER)

BMW Inspection I/II Checklist



*******>********>

BMW Service Maintenance Checklist
BMW Engine Oil Service Required
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature (only at 1st engine oil service).
Reset Service Indicator Note: Do not reset Service indicator when additional oil changes (between the normal intervals) are requested by the customer.)
BMW Oxygen Sensor Replacement Required at intervals of 100,000 miles
BMW Inspection I
Undercarriage
Change engine oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks
Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks
Remove and install front and reat disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact pointsin calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods,front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning.
Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
Check all tie pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; incase of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested (to beinvoiced separately). Note: If requested, rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance (invoice separately).
Engine Compartment
Read out diagnostic system.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary. Note: Coolant must be replaced every 2 years (time interval begins fromvehicle's production date).
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill upand/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner for operation.
Reset Service Indicator.
Body/Electrical Equipment
Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
Perform battery load test.
Checking lighting system, I.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license plate, interior (including map reading lights, glove box, flash-light, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights.
Check insturment panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, head-light dimmer and flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check rear window washerlevel and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Oil hood, trunk/tailgate and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operations of all latches.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace microfilter. Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Activate automatic roll-over protection system if equipped) via diagnostic link. Note: First remove hardtop/lower top.
Final Inspection
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission.
BMW Inspection II
Includes all items listed under Inspection I and the following checks and maintenance operations:
Engine Compartment
Replace spark plugs.
Replace intake air cleaner element.Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Check conditon of all drive belts.
Undercarriage
Change ATF in automatic transmission while at normal operating temperature.
Change oill in manual transmission while at normal operating temperature.
Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature.
Check thickness of parking brake linings.
Half-shafts: Check fo rleaks at flexible boots.
Replace fuel filters. Recommended in California, required in all other states. Note: Reduce replacement interval if fuel contamination is encounteredor prevalent.
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
At Every Second Inspection II:
Change oil in manual transmission while at normal operating temperature.
Check clutch disc for wear.

Originally Posted by Fifty_Cent

THEY DONT DO SPARG PLUGS???????

HM, who told you that?????

From my knowledge, the INSPECTION II is THE BIG SERVICE, and on the M54s is supposed to be every 60k miles!!!

Um-- if you look at the link I posted you'll see that its BMW's official checklist. Did you get that list from a site calle bimmerzone? If so, it applies to the e36. The "official" e46 inspection 2 is nothing more than an air filter, oil change, wiper blades and cabin air filter. That's it. Personally, I think its a good idea to change the fuel filter, trans fliod, diff fluid, etc at 60k (or earlier) but if you take your car to a BMW dealer and they perform the official inspection 2, you won't get that.

I have to agree with all those who recommend a DIY on this type of maintainance....if you pay a dealer $700 for this "service", then you`re DEFINITELY getting that "special" BMW lube....right in a negatively-viewed part of your anatomy....

Regards,
Bob

Originally Posted by Fast Bob

I have to agree with all those who recommend a DIY on this type of maintainance....if you pay a dealer $700 for this "service", then you`re DEFINITELY getting that "special" BMW lube....right in a negatively-viewed part of your anatomy....

Regards,
Bob

If you pay that much, they should service you as well!

Originally Posted by robg

Um-- if you look at the link I posted you'll see that its BMW's official checklist. Did you get that list from a site calle bimmerzone? If so, it applies to the e36. The "official" e46 inspection 2 is nothing more than an air filter, oil change, wiper blades and cabin air filter. That's it. Personally, I think its a good idea to change the fuel filter, trans fliod, diff fluid, etc at 60k (or earlier) but if you take your car to a BMW dealer and they perform the official inspection 2, you won't get that.

HM, so the official document states that sparg plugs of the M54s get changed a 100.000miles......*****. I didnt know that.

NO wonder that when my specialist changed the plugs at 62k, said to me:"Well, they could go abit more, but, since we have the new ones, might as well install them!!!". I was there you see when my car got an inspection II. And I tell you, sparg plug no 6(the furthest one is a REAL PAIN to remove. I thought the whole sparg plug change thing was an easy task, but belive me, it is not. To do a neat and careful job, you need your 3/4 of an hour.

It is strange that at the ,main delaer, when I asked for the E46 320i INSPECTION II parts, they gave me the spark plugs as well.

Oh well, I wont be changing any spark plugs soon, anyways. I dont regret changing them. I think 100.000 miles are ALOT of miles for sparks.Even BMW ones.

Speaking of spark plugs, I had mine replaced at 60K miles and they looked great (right color, no deposits) even with all the track events and autoXing that I've done. I'd do it again for a peace of mind but it's definitely a nice-to-do thing at 60K miles, not a requirement.

Originally Posted by Fifty_Cent

HM, so the official document states that sparg plugs of the M54s get changed a 100.000miles......*****. I didnt know that.

NO wonder that when my specialist changed the plugs at 62k, said to me:"Well, they could go abit more, but, since we have the new ones, might as well install them!!!". I was there you see when my car got an inspection II. And I tell you, sparg plug no 6(the furthest one is a REAL PAIN to remove. I thought the whole sparg plug change thing was an easy task, but belive me, it is not. To do a neat and careful job, you need your 3/4 of an hour.

It is strange that at the ,main delaer, when I asked for the E46 320i INSPECTION II parts, they gave me the spark plugs as well.

Oh well, I wont be changing any spark plugs soon, anyways. I dont regret changing them. I think 100.000 miles are ALOT of miles for sparks.Even BMW ones.

In the US atleast, many carmakers have advertised 100,000 mile spark plugs (platinum tipped) for a while (maybe 10 years or so). For some reason, I think we Americans are more maintenance-phobic than people in other countries. If we can't drive a car for 3-5 years without doing anything other than put gas in it, we get upset. BMW's 15k service intervals, free schedule maintenace, and "lifetime" fluids are all a result of this fear. Actually, BMW seems to have taken the "low maintenance" concept further than any other automaker that I know. Now, instead of having change fluids, we get to change window regulators. I've generally heard that these spark plugs will make it to 100k, but it won't be pretty. I'm guessing that 80-90k is a safer interval.

Originally Posted by brave1heart

Speaking of spark plugs, I had mine replaced at 60K miles and they looked great (right color, no deposits) even with all the track events and autoXing that I've done. I'd do it again for a peace of mind but it's definitely a nice-to-do thing at 60K miles, not a requirement.

Good color and no deposits mean the engine is running correctly, but not an indication that the plugs aren't worn. The edges of the center and ground electrode(s) should have fairly sharp, square edges. If they're rounded off, the plug is worn.

I may take a look at mine before 50k just for fun, but I'm willing to bet they'll still be like new.

Here's the deal I was just at the dealer 2 days ago....

they give you this sheet with all the stuff they do...However what it basically comes down to is that they change your oil, and air filter and microfilter, and flush the brake fluid and do the brakes....

thats basically it...and my dealer cost was $790 IMHO its a rip off.... I'll do all this and more for $100...

do the spark plugs, the oil, air filter, and your brakes if you need it and you will be ahead of the game....

i had inspection 2 done at the dealer before i really got into these forums, and i paid almost 800 for it...imo i wasted alot of money, but they did replace all 6 spark plugs and changed the control arms....

Originally Posted by Fifty_Cent

And I tell you, sparg plug no 6(the furthest one is a REAL PAIN to remove. I thought the whole sparg plug change thing was an easy task, but belive me, it is not. To do a neat and careful job, you need your 3/4 of an hour.

If you remove the cabin microfilter housing, spark plug 6 is as easy to remove as the first 5. Removing the housing takes 5 min. I posted a spark plug DIY in the DIY section a while ago, take a look.

My inspection II the spark plugs were replaced

I was under the impression that not only were the spark plugs good for 100K miles, but the transmission fluid was lifetime, which didn't ever need to be changed.
I thought I read that on Bimmerworld under the engine / trans specs.

Originally Posted by Prov431

I was under the impression that not only were the spark plugs good for 100K miles, but the transmission fluid was lifetime, which didn't ever need to be changed.
I thought I read that on Bimmerworld under the engine / trans specs.

YEs, BMW's official position is that the transmission and diff fluid is lifetime and that the spark plugs are good for 100k. Those of us who might want to keep our cars longer may want to err on the safe side and replcace these fluids/plugs at 50 or 60k. The "lifetime" fluids are probably not good past 100k.

Originally Posted by robg

YEs, BMW's official position is that the transmission and diff fluid is lifetime and that the spark plugs are good for 100k. Those of us who might want to keep our cars longer may want to err on the safe side and replcace these fluids/plugs at 50 or 60k. The "lifetime" fluids are probably not good past 100k.

So why are they called lifetime then?
I mean, in big European countries, executive cars such as a 5 series, that are boughtr by companies, can do average of 60K miles per year, that is 120k miles for a 2 year old car.

I wonder if the service dpmts in England change the fluids at the 120k miles interval.

So do you guys think it's worth extending the Maintainence Service on a BMW?

I'm about to hit 3yrs/36K next month, so I've got to decide soon.
I've changed the oil on the car, which is easy. And I think I could handle plugs with no big deal.

After reading this thread, it seems like a lot of BMW fluff.
But what about things like clutch life? BMW covers clutch problems under the maintainence plan. My clutch is fine, but who knows, things break down over time.

It's just over $1300 bucks to extend maitainence to 100K. That seems cheap, especially when BMW quotes a brake job at $900 dollars.

Originally Posted by Orient330Ci

So do you guys think it's worth extending the Maintainence Service on a BMW?

I'm about to hit 3yrs/36K next month, so I've got to decide soon.
I've changed the oil on the car, which is easy. And I think I could handle plugs with no big deal.

After reading this thread, it seems like a lot of BMW fluff.
But what about things like clutch life? BMW covers clutch problems under the maintainence plan. My clutch is fine, but who knows, things break down over time.

It's just over $1300 bucks to extend maitainence to 100K. That seems cheap, especially when BMW quotes a brake job at $900 dollars.

Definitely go for it. BMW's are not japanese cars, and having an extended quarantee will give you peace of mind.

JUst think of typical issues that you will definitely come against to:
1. Control arm bushings
2. Brakes