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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:17 AM
Dud Dud is offline
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The fan clutch was broken
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  #52  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:40 AM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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so no more overheating??




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  #53  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:49 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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So then the car overheats when standing still?? Auxiliary fan never kicks in?? Burrito biscuits??
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  #54  
Old 01-31-2013, 04:06 PM
redE36girl redE36girl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dud View Post
I havent tried bleeding it yet i havent had the time or the weather to do it. But i just changed the oil and the thermostat. What method of bleeding would u recommend? also the heat is only working on the drivers side and at best only gets hot when i give it some gas
if you wait on the weather to bleed the system then it will continue to over heat. in turn could cause catastrophic issues.

bled the system check your coolant level frequently. it is possible to have a lot of air in this system. I have the same issue every once in a while but every time the heat start blowing cold I stop and bleed the system. its the nature of the beast.
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  #55  
Old 01-31-2013, 05:00 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Although as we discovered today, the reason why you have to bleed your system regularly is because you've got a leak.
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  #56  
Old 01-31-2013, 05:59 PM
redE36girl redE36girl is offline
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yep a unknown leak at that lol think its a bad expansion tank though lol.
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  #57  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:01 PM
Dud Dud is offline
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I'm replacing it next week. I'm probably still going to drain the coolant or bleed the system just because it doesn't hurt haha
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  #58  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:22 PM
redE36girl redE36girl is offline
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try to avoid draining the whole system it takes forever to bleed then.
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  #59  
Old 02-01-2013, 04:24 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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It doesn't take too long, as long as you drain the block and the radiator. You'll be fine. Might as well replace any other sensor for your cooling system as well while your coolant is drained out.
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  #60  
Old 02-01-2013, 04:47 AM
SCJon SCJon is offline
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Originally Posted by Dud View Post
Okay will do tomorrow. The weather ha either been in the 30's or pouring rain the last few days so ill be sure to check the oil tomorrow when I get a chance. Thanks for the help. Ill update tomorrow
Also please note the color and condition of the oil when you check it. specifically whether or not it looks like your morning coffee (with cream). That is an indication you have done severe damage to the engine. We also want to know what the oil on the dipstick looked like not just the level of it. You said you just changed it, so it should like new oil. It should be CLEAR if it is OPAQUE let us know.
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  #61  
Old 02-01-2013, 12:19 PM
Dud Dud is offline
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Originally Posted by SCJon View Post
Also please note the color and condition of the oil when you check it. specifically whether or not it looks like your morning coffee (with cream). That is an indication you have done severe damage to the engine. We also want to know what the oil on the dipstick looked like not just the level of it. You said you just changed it, so it should like new oil. It should be CLEAR if it is OPAQUE let us know.
The oil looks perfect. Just checked it out a few hours ago
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  #62  
Old 02-03-2013, 08:49 AM
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bimmer765 bimmer765 is offline
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Put the car up on jack stands while on a hill then turn heater on high and open the bleeder screw. One thing I do when is when i have done my coolant overhaul is fill the engine through the top radiator hose. Then I fill the radiator where the top radiator hose goes on. Then fill and bleed with the heater on high.

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  #63  
Old 02-17-2013, 12:08 PM
dalewilson dalewilson is offline
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System MUST be bled properly

Just a reminder to go along with the other comments about bleeding the system: Fill system with coolant, open bleeder screw (beside rad cap) slowly fill with coolant while squeezing air out of rad hoses until there is only coolant coming out of the bleeder screw. Close bleeder, ensure rad/overflow bottle is full, PUT RAD CAP ON- very important- do not start car with rad cap off. Start vehicle, put heater on full hot/ max temp and ensure good heat is coming from vents. As said earlier, if no heat from vents, then air is still in the system.
If there is a problem with head gaskets, look for white smoke from exhaust, or look for air bubbles in overflow (coolant) bottle.
The car can overheat and the cooling fan will/may not come on if there is an air lock between the engine and the rad (area of the t-stat) as the cooling fan sensor is at the rad. and remains cool due to the air lock location. Get the air out before looking elsewhere.

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  #64  
Old 02-17-2013, 01:23 PM
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HakenTT HakenTT is offline
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another victim of cracked head. Combustion gas gets in the cooling system, creating air in the system that needs to be bled out every day.
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  #65  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:36 PM
Dud Dud is offline
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Originally Posted by HakenTT View Post
another victim of cracked head. Combustion gas gets in the cooling system, creating air in the system that needs to be bled out every day.
Lol Nahhhh it was just the fan clutch and a crack in the thermostat housing unit. Put on a new clutch an ordered the aluminum housing unit. All is well now!
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  #66  
Old 02-24-2013, 08:32 AM
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bimmer765 bimmer765 is offline
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Those Behr fan clutches are junk. When I bought my E36 with 156k it had probably been bad for years. Then went I bought my E46 with 79k last summer of course the same damn Behr fan clutch was shot. For some reason the seals go bad and they leak out all the oil. I replaced mine with BorgeWarner clutches no failures so far. On my E36 I replaced the t-stat housing with an aluminum part. The E46 I had to go OEM plastic since its all built in.

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  #67  
Old 02-24-2013, 08:44 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Behr is OEM. Typically lasts 150k+. Definitely not junk.
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  #68  
Old 02-24-2013, 08:52 AM
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bimmer765 bimmer765 is offline
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A fan clutch should last more than 70k. Ive replaced every Behr part on my E36. When my radiator blew last summer it was the original Behr then I tried a Nissens that started leaking a month later. So I went back to a Behr no leaks so far.

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