2006 325i died 30 miles after purchase!

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

I have worked on other modern automobiles (Ford, GM, Toyota, VW, Mazda etc.) that have ECUs that control multiple systems such as Air/Fuel ratio, fuel injection, ignition, ABS, traction control, transmission safety systems etc.

I doubt that the 325i is that much more complex.

Maybe you don't have Valvetronic?

If the car died, and the dealer advised that there's no fuel pressure - then this is the place to start.

All this talk of water, branches, body damage, coding is beside the point.

Go step-by-step.

If there was crud on the bottom of the tank the fuel filter could be clogged (from drawing the sediment off the bottom of the tank when you ran it almost dry).

Start simple, then go more complex. Don't overthink it. It could be a million different things, but it IS only one.

Good luck, this shouldn't be too difficult to straighten out (although the inconvenience was considerable).

Originally Posted by dmatre

If the car died, and the dealer advised that there's no fuel pressure - then this is the place to start.

All this talk of water, branches, body damage, coding is beside the point.

Go step-by-step.

If there was crud on the bottom of the tank the fuel filter could be clogged (from drawing the sediment off the bottom of the tank when you ran it almost dry).

Start simple, then go more complex. Don't overthink it. It could be a million different things, but it IS only one.

Good luck, this shouldn't be too difficult to straighten out (although the inconvenience was considerable).

Hey, a friendly and useful reply. Kind'a what I came in here for. Some practical advice.

That's exactly what I'm going to do. Despite the remarks of certain folks I doubt it's the Valvtronic system or some other complex issue causing the issue. Thanks for the encouragement dmatre.

I'm sure the car will be up and running in no time. Then it will be time to find out how to remove the headliner, repair the damaged roof panel and install the sunroof. The hood and the passenger side fender have only minor damage.

Originally Posted by boramkiv

Maybe you don't have Valvetronic?

Do you suppose that the Valtronic system suddenly went belly up because the rear seat carpets got wet? Or are you just implying that BMW's are too complex for little Ol' me to figure out? I have degrees in physics and mathematics and have worked as an aerospace engineer (not to mention working on cars for over thirty years) so I think I can figure out why my 325i isn't getting fuel pressure.

I just came in here to get some advice from guys that have experience working on this particular model.

Sorry if I have offended some of you by treating the car as well a car.

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

Maybe you have a dipstick?

Golly, ya mean this new fangled contraption aint got no dipstick? I best push 'er to the side of the road and walk back to the holler and just keep driving my '54 DeSoto.

I must admit that I was somewhat annoyed that I couldn't check the oil level and condition of the car before starting it up. I didn't know the condition of the oil or if there was even oil in the engine. I'm fine with electronics that monitor oil level and condition but eliminating something as cheap and simple as a dipstick seems like poor engineering to me.

I want to see the condition and level of the oil for myself not rely on a sensor and computer system to do it for me.

I assume I am not alone in this preference.

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

Do you suppose that the Valtronic system suddenly went belly up because the rear seat carpets got wet? Or are you just implying that BMW's are too complex for little Ol' me to figure out? I have degrees in physics and mathematics and have worked as an aerospace engineer (not to mention working on cars for over thirty years) so I think I can figure out why my 325i isn't getting fuel pressure.

I don't know of a single engineer who has time to purchase salvaged BMWs and go for (multiple) 500 mile road trips to pick them up. We're not trying to give you a hard time, it just seems silly to purchase a car with so many potential things wrong with it and then get upset when it dies on the way. (In fact, who purchases a salvaged vehicle with potential issues and then plans to drive it back 500 miles??)
Either way, you did get some advice on where to start. Its a forum, people share their opinions.

Originally Posted by ptrcd003

I get possibly buying a crash-salvaged car to save some cash, but water damage too? That's just another level of risk. Replacing a mechanical part is easy. Tracking down an electrical issue in these cars? I've done robotics for 10 years and it was still a challenge updating modules.

Also, there is absolutely no way they salvaged a vehicle due to a broken sunroof. The entire mechanism, brand new and dealer labour, is under $4k.

As I said, I spoke to the previous owner that was there when the branch fell on the car and as I also said she was surprised that they totaled the car.

There is also damage to the roof panel, hood and passenger side fender. Add the cost of replacing the roof sheet metal, fender and hood and then the cost of refinishing them and you can start to see why the insurance company pulled the trigger.

I can get an entire roof panel with the sunroof from a salvage yard for $650. I have experience in cutting out panels and welding them in. A replacement galvanized hood (if I need one, the damaged one looks repairable to me) is $150 and the fender is barely damaged.

All up with paint I think I can get the car in good shape for less than 2 g's. Of course there is my time but I enjoy doing the work.

Originally Posted by sunny5280

Yet you blamed lack of BMW quality and the selling dealer for your loss. Nice to see you're starting to man up and take responsibility for your decisions.

Hold on there Skippy, I didn't blame anybody for anything. I said I wasn't impressed that the car only went thirty miles and then quit abruptly. Should I have been? I have had damn few cars that stranded me on the side of the road with no warning after running perfectly before hand. And besides, it was an off hand remark that I had no idea would trigger your brand loyalty gene into full expression.

I did expect the dealer to assist me since they had encouraged me to drive the car home and it didn't get out of the shadow of the dealership. They eventually agreed and did help so I'm not sure what you're on about.

Originally Posted by ptrcd003

Either way, you did get some advice on where to start. Its a forum, people share their opinions.

I came in here to get some advice from BMW owners and I did. Some of it is useful, some not so much. About what I expected.

I'm looking forward to owning and driving my first BMW. Now I just have to get her running!

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

Hold on there Skippy, I didn't blame anybody for anything. I said I wasn't impressed that the car only went thirty miles and then quit abruptly. Should I have been? I have had damn few cars that stranded me on the side of the road with no warning after running perfectly before hand. And besides, it was an off hand remark that I had no idea would trigger your brand loyalty gene into full expression.

I did expect the dealer to assist me since they had encouraged me to drive the car home and it didn't get out of the shadow of the dealership. They eventually agreed and did help so I'm not sure what you're on about.

You're spending a lot of time on here telling us things you did wrong, shouldn't you be turning wrenches or something?


I mean some people would like to know if it was indeed the fuel pump and if so welcome you to the club.
Right now you just have a BMW, not the Ultimate Driving Machine...
trademark

Just pulled the cover for fuse panel behind the glove box. The fuses are way in there. Need to get a fuse puller. Gonna check the little tool set in the trunk for one.

I'll report back at the end of the day.

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

Just pulled the cover for fuse panel behind the glove box. The fuses are way in there. Need to get a fuse puller. Gonna check the little tool set in the trunk for one.

I'll report back at the end of the day.

The fuse puller is in the fuse panel

Found it. Thanks.

Originally Posted by ptrcd003

I get possibly buying a crash-salvaged car to save some cash, but water damage too? That's just another level of risk. Replacing a mechanical part is easy. Tracking down an electrical issue in these cars? I've done robotics for 10 years and it was still a challenge updating modules.

Also, there is absolutely no way they salvaged a vehicle due to a broken sunroof. The entire mechanism, brand new and dealer labour, is under $4k.

Are there EE's among us?

Please post a shorty on what water does to electronics, especially with, say, an ionic substance dissolved in it.

Hint: Plays a good trick on your ride.

I'm befuddled as to why you continue to say that you believed what the previous owner told you, especially on a salvage titled vehicle, and why you didn't bring it to a shop to get a diagnostic done on it. These seem to be buying used car 101s. I also do not understand why you drove the car down to nearly empty when you knew that the nearest gas station was 20 miles away. Seems to be you wanted to cheap out by not putting a gallon or two when you were test driving it just to save money. Back to believing the owner--the car being damaged more than what the branch did to the sunroof would suggest that the owner didn't take care of the car as well as the owner suggested. If the owner lives 20 miles away from a gas station and has a near empty gas tank, that too is indicative of the level of maintenance the owner probably kept on the car (at least I don't know why people keep tank nearly empty unless they really can't afford the gas, thus car repairs on a bmw). You believed the owner about a BMW battery and brake job? Did you visually check the battery and brakes? If you were told specifically the car did not have water damage, that was a lie since water got in through the sunroof. So you were actually told it did have water damage, just not flood/submersion damage. Two different things.

Ok, off my soap box and the most probable problem: The obvious problem here may not be anything mechanical, but simply air or water in the fuel line/pump, which coincidentally was probably caused by you in running the car to empty and then filling up the tank. You have to understand the gauges are accurate to a certain degree, but not totally accurate. Now you could have fried the pump, too, if you've been trying to turn it over a lot.

Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key to 'on' (not trying to start it)

If no, check fuse and relay.
if good, check voltage to fuel pump, check ground to fuel pump
If everything checks out, replace fuel pump

If yes - Does the pump sound like it's straining?
Disconnect fuel filter and check pump output
If good, replace fuel filter.
If poor output, pull pump and clean or replace in tank filter

Prime fuel ring by turning key on and off several times (about 4 seconds on) until you hear the pump build up pressure in the ring.

Either way, use some isopropyl alcohol 'dry gas' or 90% isopropyl from the drug store.

When you change the filter, drain it from the inlet side into a glass jar. If there's a large amount of water in the filter you may need to run the pump a bit until you get gas instead of water.

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

Are there EE's among us?

Please post a shorty on what water does to electronics, especially with, say, an ionic substance dissolved in it.

Hint: Plays a good trick on your ride.

Pure water doesn't do much to present day electronics, it's the minerals dissolved in the water that will screw up your electronice IF it can get inside the box. ECU's are pretty well sealed.

No power at the pump. Is there a fuse box besides the one behind the glove box? Where might I find the fuel pump relay(s)?

And before some numbnuts chimes in, I have ordered the Bentley BMW E90 service manual but it hasn't arrived in the mail as of yet.

Anyone have the manual and could tell me the location of the fuel pump relay(s) and fuse(s)?

I guess it's good news that there is no power at the pump. Of course a bad pump could have caused the fuse or relay to fail. Perhaps the person with the manual could tell me the rated amperage and resistance of the pump if it is listed.

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

Hold on there Skippy, I didn't blame anybody for anything.

Then why did you expect the dealer to do something for you? To the point you made threats to them?

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

I said I wasn't impressed that the car only went thirty miles and then quit abruptly. Should I have been?

Should you have been what?

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

I have had damn few cars that stranded me on the side of the road with no warning after running perfectly before hand. And besides, it was an off hand remark that I had no idea would trigger your brand loyalty gene into full expression.

How many of those cars were totaled by the insurance company due to water damage? The insurance company totaled the car for a reason. I suspect part of which was the fact water damaged cars can be unreliable with hard to track down problems.

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

I did expect the dealer to assist me since they had encouraged me to drive the car home and it didn't get out of the shadow of the dealership. They eventually agreed and did help so I'm not sure what you're on about.

So what? Without a guarantee of some sort they don't owe you anything. The fact you didn't get out of the shadow of the dealership is irrelevant. The car was water damaged. It was totaled by the insurance company as a result. You paid under half of what KBB said the car was worth. There was a reason you paid so little for it...because it was known to have problems. This was communicated to you and you decided to move forward with the purchase anyway. Unless you tell me the seller provided you some form of guarantee why do you feel they owe you anything?

Fuel pump fuse location varies according to date of manufacture. Location in junction box (behind glove box) is F40, F70 or F88 (per Bentley manual, although documentation is somewhat contradictory). 20A fuse.

Thanks Princeton.

Sunny5280 do you have anything constructive or helpful to add that might assist in getting my car running? If not I suggest you move on to a different thread.

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

I doubt that the 325i is that much more complex.

[diabolical laughter]Really?[/diabolical laughter]

A basic design philosophy of BMW engineers seems to be "Why design anything to be simple when you can design it to be complicated?"

If you want Zen-simple, buy Japanese. I am not at all shocked that a totaled BMW that has an interior that got wet has an electrical problem.

Originally Posted by BashedBarrique

Sunny5280 do you have anything constructive or helpful to add that might assist in getting my car running? If not I suggest you move on to a different thread.

I'm just curious as to why you feel entitled to some form of assistance from the seller. I assume you don't have a reasonable explanation or else you would have provided it.

Sunny5280, did you miss my last post addressed to you?