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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 02-03-2013, 02:02 PM
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ok so i oil changed oil filter change and put in lucas oil additive and still annoying tapping in the engine whats my options now?
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  #27  
Old 02-03-2013, 02:05 PM
zfxpE34 zfxpE34 is offline
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Give it a few days to run through the motor buddy, you won't notice right away lol
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  #28  
Old 02-03-2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by zfxpE34 View Post
Give it a few days to run through the motor buddy, you won't notice right away lol
haha ok im just impatient yah know? that sound is the most annoying thing ever!
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  #29  
Old 02-03-2013, 02:35 PM
zfxpE34 zfxpE34 is offline
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haha yeah I know
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  #30  
Old 02-03-2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by zfxpE34 View Post
haha yeah I know
Ok I know I should wait about the ticking but I was driving it today and at the oil light flickered barely at a red light and the engine made some shaking I never got before I might just be getting over worried for no reason but does this mahbe mean something that that light flickered and I got shakes? Should I not drive it is there harm I could be doing to the engine

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  #31  
Old 02-03-2013, 06:03 PM
zfxpE34 zfxpE34 is offline
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drop the pan and tighten those bolts.
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  #32  
Old 02-03-2013, 06:42 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfxpE34 View Post
drop the pan and tighten those bolts.
Is it common on the M50 to lose oil pump bolts like that?

Low oil pressure would explain the light and the valvetrain noise in the video. Does the noise go away when you increase rpms or get worse?
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  #33  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
Is it common on the M50 to lose oil pump bolts like that?
no not like the M60 if thats what your meaning
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  #34  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:16 PM
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Ok got a lot worse ticking louder shaking a bit oil press light back and the ticking seems to gett highrr till about 3rpm but then fade out but I do have my resanators and a freeflow muffler so ttying to hear engine noise like ticking at higher rpms is hard

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  #35  
Old 02-04-2013, 05:40 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Originally Posted by _Ethrty-Andy_ View Post
no not like the M60 if thats what your meaning
That is what I was getting at. I know the M60 can be prone to this, I didn't think the M50 was. Just want to be careful not to send him on a wild goose chase.

So you had NO valvetrain noise before you did the VCG, and now you do?

I would pull the VC again for an inspection. I would also find a way to test oil pressure. Fitting a mechanical gauge in a temporary fashion would work. I would use the oil pressure switch port and see what you have.
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  #36  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
That is what I was getting at. I know the M60 can be prone to this, I didn't think the M50 was. Just want to be careful not to send him on a wild goose chase.

So you had NO valvetrain noise before you did the VCG, and now you do?

I would pull the VC again for an inspection. I would also find a way to test oil pressure. Fitting a mechanical gauge in a temporary fashion would work. I would use the oil pressure switch port and see what you have.
yeah i did some research already and didn't find much about this with the m50 ill hopefully have time to set something up to check pressure, ill let you guys know what i find!
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  #37  
Old 02-04-2013, 10:10 AM
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Could it be a shot VANOS unit
EDIT: I see you dont have a vanos

Loose spark plug?
EDIT: I see Steve mentioned this before. Have you checked it?
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2013, 10:54 AM
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anytime you hear noise like that you should not be driving the car. anytime oil pressue comes in to play park the car and start checking most of the time its the pump or main bearings start to wear lowing the oil pressure enough for the valvetrain to become loud. a collasped lifter doesnt give a noise across the whole valvetrain as yours sounds.
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  #39  
Old 02-04-2013, 12:15 PM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Yeah, i don't know why you are suggesting the spark plug. I think you missed his post about the oil light coming back on after the filter change. I missed it too. Checking oil pressure I think is not necessary, if the light is on, and when you can here valve ticking, there is too little pressure!
OP, please don't drive this car anymore until you fix this problem. Your engines might seize up on you.
Since you just did the vcg, you should check to see if the spark plugs and the coils are all tight. Its not connected to the oil problem, just that, whenever you do a repair and something else goes wrong, its just a good idea to recheck your repair, just in case.

This is an M50 engine. The oil pump is bulletproof. I think you need to flush your engine. It is clogged with dirt. Use 2 litres of a famous flush like stp, wynn's or liqui moly, or a cheap one like diesel fuel. Importantly, use alot, not a little. Or you can use a special dedicate light oil flushing oil, and run that through your engine at idle. You need two oil filters. Flushing oil is much slower though.
If you cannot find dedicated engine flushing oil, people used to use Dex3 transmission fluid in their engines for a flush. Its about as light as flushing oil anyway. Use at least 50% by crankcase volume of tranny fluid. Follow the flushing method correctly.

Please look at this thread for more info: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=667661&page=9
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  #40  
Old 02-04-2013, 12:53 PM
Microtesties Microtesties is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e34_spangler View Post
Ok got a lot worse ticking louder shaking a bit oil press light back and the ticking seems to gett highrr till about 3rpm but then fade out but I do have my resanators and a freeflow muffler so ttying to hear engine noise like ticking at higher rpms is hard

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With progressively worsening symptoms I suggest you stop driving the car and do some digging through the whole lubrication system. Take the valve cover off and run the engine briefly, checking oil distribution around the head. Tightening the pump bolts isn't out of the question either. Lastly, check your oil frequently, you may be losing/burning some. If none of this helps oil gears may be worn and may require the pump to be replaced.
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  #41  
Old 02-04-2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Microtesties View Post
With progressively worsening symptoms I suggest you stop driving the car and do some digging through the whole lubrication system. Take the valve cover off and run the engine briefly, checking oil distribution around the head. Tightening the pump bolts isn't out of the question either. Lastly, check your oil frequently, you may be losing/burning some. If none of this helps oil gears may be worn and may require the pump to be replaced.
ok i took the valve cover off with my old man he said there's nothing wrong and oil looks great. now i still personally feel there's something wrong and my engine sounded beautiful before i got this annoying tapping, now my dad thinks i'm just going crazy over this car and its just getting old and that the switch is bad, so hes having a buddy of his come over tonight and check it out that's a mechanic and will see what he says but
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  #42  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:55 PM
Microtesties Microtesties is offline
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Originally Posted by e34_spangler View Post
ok i took the valve cover off with my old man he said there's nothing wrong and oil looks great. now i still personally feel there's something wrong and my engine sounded beautiful before i got this annoying tapping, now my dad thinks i'm just going crazy over this car and its just getting old and that the switch is bad, so hes having a buddy of his come over tonight and check it out that's a mechanic and will see what he says but
Judging by your video and the description of your symptoms, you aren't going crazy, you have a problem. I believe you mentioned earlier you changed the oil and filter, right? If not, do so. Also do you have any idea how old the oil was previous to the most recent change?
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  #43  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:05 PM
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ok well the mechanic said something got in the engine and messed with a bearing, so whatever it is seems to be beyond what i can do during the winter time in my garage so i guess its going to the mechanic):
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  #44  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:12 PM
Microtesties Microtesties is offline
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Probably a good choice, don't feel too bad about it. Once you start getting into engine internals, especially as important as bearings, if you don't know what you're doing you can do more damage than good.

When this is done lets hope your BMW will be flawless for a long, long time!
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  #45  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Microtesties View Post
Probably a good choice, don't feel too bad about it. Once you start getting into engine internals, especially as important as bearings, if you don't know what you're doing you can do more damage than good.

When this is done lets hope your BMW will be flawless for a long, long time!
yeah honestly before this my car sounded so beatiful i was so proud it had 170,000 on it and you open her up and she just sang(:
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  #46  
Old 02-05-2013, 05:35 AM
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I just wanna say thanks to everyone thag has put forth some knowledge!

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  #47  
Old 02-05-2013, 05:43 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Originally Posted by e34_spangler View Post
ok well the mechanic said something got in the engine and messed with a bearing, so whatever it is seems to be beyond what i can do during the winter time in my garage so i guess its going to the mechanic):
Just be aware that there IS NO WAY ON EARTH any mechanic can diagnose bad bearings from valvetrain noise without tearing into the engine. I would be very suspect of that diagnosis.

I would be pulling the oil pan to see if there is an obstruction on the pump screen if the oil pressure does not test well.

You test for oil pressure to see how it behaves, only an idiot will rely on an idiot light to diagnose an engine

I would run not walk for the flush idea as well. If there is debris clogging the pump pick up, flushing will make it worse not better.
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  #48  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:07 AM
cutter67 cutter67 is offline
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it all matters if the mechanic you had look at it is trustworthly.....there is a problem when you are running low oil pressure no matter what the cause is..... you are starving oil from parts of the motor period. listerning to the video cant tell if there is a lower end knock also but standing beside it he may hear it....maybe just putting another engine in it is the best way sometimes
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  #49  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:17 AM
rv6rick rv6rick is offline
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IH,

I'm just coming back to this and read a few of the posts again,

AGAIN, this is the EXACT same thing that happened to me multiple times. The first time it was the oil pump bolts. I dropped the pan and put the bolts that fell out back in and tightened the rest of them and it ran perfect with NO oil light for many more miles. The second time it did it I dropped the pan and all the bolts were fine. I put in a new pump and it was fine again for many more miles. The 3rd time the light came on I dropped the pan and the screen was plugged with grit. It was fine again after that. The 4th time it happened to me it was grit again but the grit was caused by a fuel wash/flush.

IMO DO NOT....I repeat....DO NOT FLUSH YOUR ENGINE as this WILL CAUSE more problems than you care to deal with. Flushing a known clean engine routinely 'may' be OK but DO NOT flush your engine with 170k miles on it. Mine had 173k miles on it and the flush absolutley killed my oil pump and I had to remove the pan 6 TIMES to get rid of all the carbon grit that was washed into the oil pump screen.

Also, IMO the oil pump is NOT 'bulletproof' as indicated by my experience.

Rick in Ohio


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mamij View Post
This is an M50 engine. The oil pump is bulletproof. I think you need to flush your engine. It is clogged with dirt. Use 2 litres of a famous flush like stp, wynn's or liqui moly, or a cheap one like diesel fuel. Importantly, use alot, not a little. Or you can use a special dedicate light oil flushing oil, and run that through your engine at idle. You need two oil filters. Flushing oil is much slower though.
If you cannot find dedicated engine flushing oil, people used to use Dex3 transmission fluid in their engines for a flush. Its about as light as flushing oil anyway. Use at least 50% by crankcase volume of tranny fluid. Follow the flushing method correctly.

Please look at this thread for more info: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=667661&page=9

Last edited by rv6rick; 02-05-2013 at 06:19 AM.
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  #50  
Old 02-05-2013, 08:21 AM
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e34_spangler e34_spangler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6rick View Post
IH,

I'm just coming back to this and read a few of the posts again,

AGAIN, this is the EXACT same thing that happened to me multiple times. The first time it was the oil pump bolts. I dropped the pan and put the bolts that fell out back in and tightened the rest of them and it ran perfect with NO oil light for many more miles. The second time it did it I dropped the pan and all the bolts were fine. I put in a new pump and it was fine again for many more miles. The 3rd time the light came on I dropped the pan and the screen was plugged with grit. It was fine again after that. The 4th time it happened to me it was grit again but the grit was caused by a fuel wash/flush.

IMO DO NOT....I repeat....DO NOT FLUSH YOUR ENGINE as this WILL CAUSE more problems than you care to deal with. Flushing a known clean engine routinely 'may' be OK but DO NOT flush your engine with 170k miles on it. Mine had 173k miles on it and the flush absolutley killed my oil pump and I had to remove the pan 6 TIMES to get rid of all the carbon grit that was washed into the oil pump screen.

Also, IMO the oil pump is NOT 'bulletproof' as indicated by my experience.

Rick in Ohio
Hey man thanks but its juat going to the shop cause it seems to be not a pump but hey it could be.. my friend is a mechanic and im hoping he wont charge me to much but like someone else said its better to have someone that knows what there doing and I agree I dont wanna mess anything up any more than it already is

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