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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-23-2011, 06:52 AM
DanielTech DanielTech is offline
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'98 528i Alarm after unlocking

I have a 98' 528i with the "wolf whistle" alarm system. everything functions properly. Except everytime the car is unlocked (key in the door OR remote) the alarm sounds seconds later. Louder than hell too. OBDII scans show a fault for Driver door lock barrel. (not a single low voltage fault) assuming that means the actuator i unplugged the driver actuator and tried the old lock unlock and the alarm sounds seconds later. Hood switch is good. good battery. good key. any gurus around?

Also, when I unlock the car and the alarm goes off i cannot press the key remote and shut it off it runs for about 2 minutes before it times out. If it goes off when it should i can still cut it off.

Last edited by DanielTech; 06-23-2011 at 11:40 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2011, 07:49 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is online now
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The door actuator is not the same thing as the "door lock barrel".

There are multiple components in the door that you need to narrow down as the culprit from what your scan shows. There is the door lock control module (#1 in diagrma), the lock actuator (#2 in diagram), and the catch w/key code (#23 in diagram)...the later I assume is the "barrel" you're referring to:


Take a look at your (DWA) alarm status LED (the red clown nose on the bottom of the rear view mirror) after unlocking your car to see if it is showing that the alarm is disarmed. If the status is ok?

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

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Last edited by QSilver7; 06-23-2011 at 07:56 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:58 AM
DanielTech DanielTech is offline
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according to the parts explosion I actually unplugged the control module. assuming that was the only electrical connector it should have cleared up the symptoms by deactivating the actuator. I dont think the VeDis scan tool Im using translated the code correctly, obviously. The car is arming normally. it's unarming that is setting off the alarm.
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  #4  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:59 AM
DanielTech DanielTech is offline
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after putting in a new battery i thought my troubles were over. So I walked outside this morning unlocked the car and waited. no alarm. locked it again via the key remote the unlocked and seconds later the alarm sounds and cannot be turned off. Like before it goes for about two minutes before timing out.

Last edited by DanielTech; 06-24-2011 at 07:31 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:03 AM
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Hmmm, if you've been experiencing low voltage from the car's battery...perhaps it has had an affect on the alarm siren's (internal) battery. If this is the case, it can cause the alarm to false trigger. If the alarm siren's internal battery has gotten to the point that it no longer fully charges...it could be the culprit. Diagnostic equipment could reveal if this is the issue:

__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #6  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:38 AM
DanielTech DanielTech is offline
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Qsilver you have verified what i assumed. I did know about that alarm battery thanks to a tsb. thats my next move. its good to have support for that option lol thanks a ton I'll post whether or not that works out.
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  #7  
Old 10-11-2014, 02:39 PM
JDCgreen528i JDCgreen528i is offline
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Did you ever fix the problem? My '97 528i is doing the same thing. I just replaced the driver side window regulator and motor. Maybe I didn't reconnect something? I'm at a loss...
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2015, 01:07 PM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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After removing my battery for three days to trickle charge it on my 1 amp Schumacher charger, my 1998 E39 BMW Alarm is now going off after disarming the alarm using either the key, or remote for one cycle, and I can't turn it off the siren using the remote once it is sounding, any idea what may be causing this? It was working with out a glitch before the battery removal, Could it also be the siren's rechargeable battery that I read in previous posts on this thread?

Last edited by josemedeiros007; 01-19-2015 at 08:56 AM.
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  #9  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josemedeiros007 View Post
After removing my battery for a few days to trickle charge it, my 1998 E39 BMW Alarm is now going off after disarming the alarm using either the key, or remote for one cycle, and I can't turn it off the siren using the remote once it is sounding, any idea what may be causing this? It was working with out a glitch before the battery removal, Could it also be the siren's rechargeable battery?
As mentioned in post #5...the alarm siren has its own internal battery which wasn't being charged during the time you had the car'sbattery removed.

The alarm registers low voltage as a theft attempt...so this could be the reason for the false triggering.

The alarm's battery is only charged when the car is NOT armed...soif you replaced the car's battery, then armed (locked) the vehicle with the remote...then the alarm siren's battery still wasn't being recharged.

To stop the alarm in the scenario you present...requires inserting the key into the ignition and turning it to position 1 or 2 so that EWS sends a signal to the GM that a proper key is recognized...which then alerts the GM to disarm the vehicle which should shut off the DWA alarm siren.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 01-19-2015 at 08:33 AM.
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:55 AM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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Thank you for your reply and the help. After I posted my Alarm siren sounding issue, at 4.00 pm I again removed the battery cables to the car battery for two hours, and connected the positive cable to the negative cable to drain any electronic capacitors, and reboot the computer while I readied myself for church. At 6.00 pm I re-connected the battery cables, started the car, and drove to church and armed the alarm. After church I disabled the alarm and got into my car, but this time the alarm did not sound, I thought I resolved the issue. I then started my BMW 528i and as I was driving off the darn alarm siren went off again for a full cycle, and then stopped.

Wouldn't starting the car tell the alarm to disarm itself? I'll measure my battery voltage, but it should be 12.6 after charging the battery for 70 hours on my 1 amp trickle charger. Could I have a faulty alarm module, and or siren? Where is the alarm module located at, is it behind the glovebox? I also do not appear to have a tilt sensor located in the trunk near the battery, was that standard equipment or an add on?

Sincerely,

Jose F. Medeiros, 408-256-0649
98 E39, 528i , San Jose, Cal.

Last edited by josemedeiros007; 01-19-2015 at 09:38 AM.
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  #11  
Old 01-19-2015, 09:04 AM
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See alarm siren info in post #5...the location of the siren is given in the first sentence.

Your car's battery is not the issue...it is the battery inside the siren that is probaly discharged.

If you are removing the battery or battery cables to trickle charge the car's battery...the alarm siren is NOT being charged. Again, it is only charged when the car is NOT armed (and the car.s battery cables are attached to the car's battery.

If possible...if you think the car's battery needs to be recharged...used the jump start terminals in the engine bay....while keeping the battery intact in the trunk's location. This way you won't continue to discharge the alarm siren's battery (as long as the car isn't locked & armed.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #12  
Old 01-19-2015, 09:43 AM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielTech View Post
I have a 98' 528i with the "wolf whistle" alarm system. everything functions properly. Except everytime the car is unlocked (key in the door OR remote) the alarm sounds seconds later. Louder than hell too. OBDII scans show a fault for Driver door lock barrel. (not a single low voltage fault) assuming that means the actuator i unplugged the driver actuator and tried the old lock unlock and the alarm sounds seconds later. Hood switch is good. good battery. good key. any gurus around?

Also, when I unlock the car and the alarm goes off i cannot press the key remote and shut it off it runs for about 2 minutes before it times out. If it goes off when it should i can still cut it off.
Daniel, I have the same issue with my 1998 E39 Alarm after removing my Interstate car battery to charge it for three days on my 1 amp trickle charger. How did you resolve your issue?
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2015, 09:04 PM
bugatti95 bugatti95 is offline
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i almost have the same problem. i have a 1998 528i. Please help!!

1) the stock siren on mine was dead when i got the car, when i pressed the panic button on the remote, the high beams and hazards would flash, but no siren sound, and also audible lock and unlock didnt work because the siren was dead
2) so i replaced the siren with a brand new one and it sounds and everything, and the audible lock and unlock work, but here is the thing...
3) when i lock and unlock the car right after nothing happens, i hear the beep and 2 beeps for unlock, but when I lock and arm the car through the remote, and come back to the car after awhile to unlock it through the remote, it will unlock and you hear the two beeps, but right after you unlock it the alarm starts going off like crazy and theres no way to stop it until it runs out through about 15 or so seconds, or if you take the fuse for the alarm out of the trunk.
4) I have tried absolutely everything!! I unplugged the hood sensor, the tilt sensor, and the interior motion sensor. i also got my main battery checked too. and this is the second replacement siren ive tried out; the first replacement was used, so i went and bought a brand new siren, and it still does the same exact thing. and all of the doors are closed when i arm the car. its weird because the alarm never went off before i replaced the siren
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  #14  
Old Today, 05:43 AM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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If the siren's battery has given up the ghost...

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
See alarm siren info in post #5...the location of the siren is given in the first sentence.

Your car's battery is not the issue...it is the battery inside the siren that is probaly discharged.

If you are removing the battery or battery cables to trickle charge the car's battery...the alarm siren is NOT being charged. Again, it is only charged when the car is NOT armed (and the car.s battery cables are attached to the car's battery.

If possible...if you think the car's battery needs to be recharged...used the jump start terminals in the engine bay....while keeping the battery intact in the trunk's location. This way you won't continue to discharge the alarm siren's battery (as long as the car isn't locked & armed.
If the siren's battery no longer holds a charge, I assume that this would lead to the siren sound every time the car is unlocked. If I leave the car unlocked and charge the battery through the engine terminals, is the siren battery charging at the same time?

If the problem persists, in order to confirm that it is the siren battery, I should read codes using INPA. Which module would this be? The engine? The chassis? The body?

EDIT: I think I found the answer to the INPA question here.

Quote:
I've had a look at INPA and think there are a couple of things you can try:

First, go to the central body electronics module under the Body group, go into Read Status (I'm doing this from memory so bare with me), then select Contacts which should show the state of the door, bonnet and boot switches. See if any are open (black dot) when they shouldn't be.

Failing that, try going to Error Codes in the same module and Read Status. See if it is showing one particular circuit as open all the time. Clear the error codes, lock up and let the alarm trip, then read them again and see if it identifies what caused it.

HTH!

Last edited by gmak2012; Today at 05:47 AM.
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