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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 03-01-2013, 11:44 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
My father died when I was almost 9
I'm very sorry about that. You're a good man, and he would be proud of you now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
I thought you had two FSUs that are bad and did not want to buy a third until you knew #2 was definitely bad.
What drives me more than fixing the bimmer (which is as simple as buying a new FSU) is HELPING OTHERS diagnose and fix theirs.

And, the KEY to helping others is putting the pieces together (as you did with the ABS control module diagnostic tree) to determine how to tell WHAT went wrong (inside the FSU).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
I am replacing the guibo; Want to know from someone who has done this job themselves.
Unfortunately I have not so I can only refer to the threads. Sorry. But there are folks in the threads who have done it, so they'd know best.

- How a worn drive shaft, flex disc, center bearing, or "giunti Boschi", aka giubo, can cause the vehicle to vibrate (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to repair the rear driveshaft seal by the differential (1) & how to repair the inner constant velocity (CV) half-drive shaft (1) & how to replace motor mounts (aka engine mounts) and transmission mounts (aka holders) on the BMW E39 I6 (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & for the E39 V8 (1) (2) (3).
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  #52  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:35 PM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Thank you for the kind words Blue. I just want to understand which FSU you are going to reinstall and what it was doing wrong when you last removed it? Do both of your FSUs have the same failure mode? I.E. they acted the exact same way when they failed? Did the blower go to high speed, stop running, or work with huge battery drain? Just trying to understand. The one I would fear the most would be the one that still controls the fan speed, but never goes to sleep or goes to a place where it only draws excess current occasionally. I'm not sure I have my understanding correct. Did you put them side by side on the desk and test the resistance point to point of each one and see any significant difference?
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  #53  
Old 03-02-2013, 01:43 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
Do both of your FSUs have the same failure mode?
Nope.
The original GKR / Siemens / BMW all-aluminum FSU failed on 1/26/2009 as per this thread:
- How to diagnose what's wrong with a battery that goes dead once a month?

There were no initial symptoms except for a repeated dead battery overnight (battery & alt were fine). Three days later, I had learned to listen for the fan motor with the key removed, so I had bought a new (acm) FSU.

On 2/2/2009, I tested the old and new FSU side by side:
Quote:
RESISTANCE FROM TERMINAL TO ALUMINUM FINS:
#4 #5
#1 #2 #3

pin 1 OLD: 600 K ohm NEW: 11.2 ohms
pin 2 OLD: 3.02 M ohm NEW: 1.22 M ohm
pin 3 OLD: 2.219 M ohm NEW: 608 K ohm
pin 4 OLD: 2.136 M ohm NEW: 602 K ohm
pin 5 OLD: 3.05 M ohm NEW: 1.277 M ohm
Notice that these measurements were NOT consistent with my measurements in this thread above.

The primary symptoms for the second (acm) FSU were, again, the battery drained successive nights; however I could never hear any oddities of the fan. And only once, was I able to see the 14Amp spikes every three seconds which you see earlier in this thread.

Pulling the fuse and/or the FSU stopped the battery drain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
The one I would fear the most would be the one that still controls the fan speed, but never goes to sleep or goes to a place where it only draws excess current occasionally.
I think that's what I have, but, further tests are in order.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
Did you put them side by side on the desk and test the resistance point to point of each one and see any significant difference?
Not only is the pin-to-pin and pin-to-fin resistance vastly different between the two bad FSUs, side by side, but also, the acm FSU doesn't read the same thing it read when I first tested it. All tests were done with the same DMM and test leads.

It's a pretty simple test, so I couldn't have screwed it up.

My pensive conclusion is that both FSUs went bad in different ways, yet both exhibited nary a symptom save for the dead battery overnight.
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Last edited by bluebee; 03-02-2013 at 01:45 PM.
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  #54  
Old 03-02-2013, 02:02 PM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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So they both continued to control your fan what seemed to be to the proper speed. One of the FSUs however allowed the fan to run probably slowly after car was shut off. Is this correct? Problem with the pins you tested are that the "quills" are likely not even at ground potential so testing the resistance from the quills to anything is a waste (I know you tried your best). It would be pins 1-2, 1-3-1-4 and 1-5 and then 2-3,2-4, and 2-5 and the3-4 and 3-5, and finally 4-5.There could be a diode shorted as well which would require each test to be done with the leads reversed just to see if the resistance changes, then we know we have a diode action going on...could be a transistor as well. Still don't know what we would do with it, but just maybe..... Your problem shows that the newer design is no better than the OEM! Damn, had hoped it would be better as the quill layout is better for heat sink action.
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  #55  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:22 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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not that bad of a right up... its never that ez.. but this is the steps...
of course 200% of this fourm doesnt understand what the frakk that means... but at least its here
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  #56  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:30 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
200% of this fourm doesnt understand ... but at least its here
Speaking of understanding parasitic drain diagnostic procedures, EdJack recommended this thread over here today:

Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
bluebee, you may wish to reference this PDF http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=683264

Looks like a superior way to find current drains, if you have a sensitive enough DMM, and the skill to make accurate measurements..
Quote:
Due to the state of the CAN Bus communications in the vehicle, it is no longer acceptable to pull each individual fuse one at a time to try and identify which circuit is consuming current. Removal/ reinsertion of a fuse while vehicle is in a sleep state may wake the bus of the vehicle, and invalidate the test. Identifying "consuming" circuits must be done by measuring a voltage drop across fuse and aligning with the value in matrix located at end of this document.
The reference document is located here:
- vw.tb.27-07-11 Battery Discharged Diagnosis for Static Current Draw.pdf (111.9 KB)

It's not all that easy to understand their recommended method:
  1. Connect calibrated 50 amp current clamp to the battery negative cable
  2. Close all doors, trunk, or hood latch so vehicle control units detect all doors closed
  3. Arm vehicle anti-theft system with remote
  4. Observe sleep state current draw after vehicle is left untouched for TWO HOURS.
  5. If after two hours the vehicle does not exceed maximum sleep state current draw, perform a long term (overnight) measurement test
If the parasitic current is too high in the above tests, then run the following Consuming Circuit Isolation test:
  1. Measure the millivolt drop across the resting fuse (e.g., 0.3mv)
  2. Given the fuse amperage (e.g., 5A), check what current draw that equates to (e.g., 20ma)
  3. Now you know the resting current through that fuse is 20 milliamps
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-01-2013 at 09:58 PM. Reason: Added diagram
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  #57  
Old 08-09-2013, 06:29 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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FYI ... here is a reference to all the fuses:
- One user's attempt at locating and snapping a picture of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39 (1) & the most often recommended method to diagnose overnight parasitic battery current drain including the FSU (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I'm not the expert; but cn90's thread (already referenced) shows how to test the HVAC controller.

So, I guess, it could be one of these (all of which can be tested):
  1. Final Stage Resistor (final stage unit), blower motor resistor (1) (2) (3)
  2. Fuse F76 = 40A, Heater blower (yellow) [cn90 says it should have 12V when HVAC is turned on][QSilver7 says the heater blower controls the air velocity for the cabin/interior HVAC system.]
  3. Fuse F46 = 15A, Blower relay/Parked Car ventilation/Receiver, parked car ventilation (1)
  4. HVAC controller (see tests) by cn90)
  5. K4 = interior heater blower motor relay (1)
  6. Blower motor (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
  7. Are there any other related fuses or relays? (1)
See also:
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 09-08-2013 at 01:13 PM.
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  #58  
Old 09-24-2013, 03:01 PM
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This information posted today will be useful as it shows what the Bentleys think our standing & sleeping parasitic drain should be ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottjoh View Post
You probably know this that the current isn't at it's lowest until 17 minutes after last activity (switch press, door closing or opening, etc) the general module keeps track of this time and send the sleep message over the bus. This makes looking for a current draw a very time consuming task. According to the Bentley manual current is approximately 750mA after turning off the ignition, 1 minutes later it should drop to approx 560mA and after another 16 minutes it should drop to approx 18mA. This of course does not include lights that turn on when the door is ajar. Bentley says the values are from a 528i and that sleep is after 16 minutes of turning off the ignition, but, from my experience it's 17 minutes from the last switch or door activity. Locking the door or arming the car does not make it immediately go to sleep (wish it did, that would make this process a whole lot faster)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #59  
Old 10-09-2013, 12:02 AM
cdorsettc cdorsettc is offline
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This thread is incredible. I think the programmers should add a "pat-on-the-back" or "like" button to these how-to threads. The authors of these imformative step methods need to know how much they are appreciated. Bluebee et al you guys are my heroes.
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  #60  
Old 11-01-2013, 06:20 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, an updated set of links is here:
- How to test a BMW battery & alternator (1) & one user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays in the BMW E39 with a picture of every fuse & relay (1) & the most often recommended diagnostic procedure to test for overnight parasitic battery drain (1) how to choose a good aftermarket battery (1) and a simple battery replacement DIY (1) & how to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1) & how to repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1) & how to replace your HVAC blower motor control (1) (E46) & what FSU is the right one to buy based on user experiences (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 01-30-2014 at 10:27 PM.
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  #61  
Old 04-27-2014, 11:10 AM
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We found out something new about Fuse F28 today!
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Blower Motor Stopped working? Try This
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
According to WDS [what fuse F28 does] depends on build date.

A) up to 9/98 build date, i.e. model year 1998, fuse F28 30 amp, supplies the switched power side of a heater blower relay. This circuit supplies power to the FSU.

B) model years 1999 and later, F28 15 amp, supplies the auto transmission control module.
See also:
- One user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays in the BMW E39 with a picture of every fuse & relay (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #62  
Old 07-19-2014, 08:30 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Here's another thread today looking for an elusive parasitic current drain:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 1999 528it still have parasitic draw ~ Found ~ Radio issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by pred View Post
Lets review,
Used to let car sit two weeks at a time, Never a starting issue,
No mods done to wagon,
One day battery flat,
Battery from 9-2012, Replaced anyway,
Replaces FSU
I still have a .05 parasitic draw after sitting for 30 minutes,
.06 parasitic draw with alarm on,

Only other symptom is that the radio starting acting up one week before flat battery.
Radio started by turning off, Display blank except for time on far right,
Then radio would just quit playing but display working like nothing is wrong,
and THEN this is the most recient radio game, When turning the car on, 90% of the time the car starts up and radio display is functioning properly, But no sound, I turn radio off and back on and it resumes normal operation,
Wagon has the Alpine CD changer in rear as well as the amp and then the Sub on other side above battery,
I cant help by think the parasitic draw is radio related somehow.
1, Is there one main fuse to disconnect the radio from the electrical system?
2, is there a quick way to disconnect the alternator from the system,
: While Ive never seen a bad alternator draw less than 2 amps when the bridge goes : I would still like to double check it for a .03 amp draw.
3, Is there another common item which can cause a very small draw that youre aware of?
4, Any other tests I can do before sending it to the local and VERY costly BMW INDY shop?
Thank you
Peter
SEE POST #5 for whats wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pudl View Post
It would take 75 days for a draw of 0.05A to empty a theoretical 90Ah battery. Either the battery is bad or the draw is much higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pred View Post
The .05 amp draw took the old battery which was two years old AND the new battery from 12.5 to 12.2 overnight and in 24 hours down to 12v,
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~

I worked on the car this morning for a while and found this,
Amp draw of .05.
Pulled the module for the 6 disc CD changer and draw dropped to .02.
So basically the CD changer is always ready / on,
I believe there is an issue with the radio as I am still getting the same issue that I have to turn the radio off and then back on to get it to play when I get in car and turn on key,
So,
Draw found ! ! ! !
But radio issue still exists,
Thanks all,
Onto another thread,
Quote:
Originally Posted by pudl View Post
It would take 75 days for a draw of 0.05A to empty a theoretical 90Ah battery. Either the battery is bad or the draw is much higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
you draw must be much higher...
You let the car go to sleep... dissconnect the postive.. then check for amp between the battery and the terminal you pulled?
OR a amp clamp on the postive side cable?
there is a fuse for the radio.. or you can simply dissconnect it all togther..
MY wifes x3 had a draw, very slow.. and very random.. after much talking I followed the advice of the people who had this problem b4.. and dissconnected the Communication unit (guess the truck was trying to call Home in the middle of the night)
It hasnt happen since... but again it could take me 6 months to figure out that its fixed or not...
QSilver7's screenshot of the typical E39 battery spec:
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-19-2014 at 09:23 AM.
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  #63  
Old 07-19-2014, 09:10 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Given this thread today, where the OP feels that the quiescent current is excessive, it would be nice to have the BMW spec for that.
- OEM radio and CD changer excessive power draw and other issues, Please look

Googling for a BMW spec for parasitic drain, I find this QSilver7 screenshot which intimates that the car should last 6 weeks under normal conditions:
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-19-2014 at 09:36 AM.
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  #64  
Old 07-19-2014, 09:34 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Googling further for a BMW spec on parasitic drain, I found this:
- BMW Parasitic Closed Current Draw Specifications
Quote:
Closed-circuit current consistently over 50mA should be addressed.
Depending on the vehicle's equipment, closed-circuit current by vehicle model is approximately as follows:
  • E31
    • 50 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E32
    • 50 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E34
    • 40 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E36, Z3
    • 30 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E38
    • 50 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E39
    • 40 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E46
    • 40 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E60, E61, E63, E64
    • 40 milliamps after 60-70 minutes
  • E65, E66
    • 40 milliamps after 60-70 minutes
  • E53
    • 40 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E70, E71, E72
    • 40 milliamps after 60-70 minutes with TCU (30 minutes without TCU)
  • E83
    • 40 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E82, E88
    • 40 milliamps after 60-70 minutes with TCU (30 minutes without TCU)
  • E90, E91, E92, E93
    • 40 milliamps after 60-70 minutes with TCU (30 minutes without TCU)
  • E85
    • 40 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • E89
    • 40 milliamps after 60-70 minutes with TCU (30 minutes without TCU)
  • E52
    • 50 milliamps after 16 minutes
  • F01, F02, F07
    • 7-21 milliamps after 30 minutes
Attached Thumbnails
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-19-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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  #65  
Old 07-19-2014, 09:47 AM
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I found an SIB which confirms the 40ma number, and, which explains the procedure for testing quiescent parasitic current drain on the E39 (and other models).
- SIB 61 08 00.pdf

Quote:
  • If the battery is installed in the trunk, open the trunk and turn the lock to the locked position, using a screwdriver or similar (simulates the trunk lid being closed).
    • The hood must be closed.
    • If the battery is installed in the engine compartment, open the hood and pull the front lid contact switch fully up, and lock in this position (workshop position, simulates the front lid being closed).
    • The trunk must be closed.
  • With the exception of the trunk/hood above, all other doors/lids must be closed.
  • In order to simulate normal closed-circuit conditions:
    • Turn the ignition on and activate all electrical consumers, including any accessories.
    • Turn the ignition off.
    • In some cases, a drive cycle may need to be carried out in order to duplicate a closed-circuit current problem.
  • Open and close the driver's door (simulates somebody getting out).
    • Lock the car, arming the DWA if this is installed.
  • In general, closed-circuit current consistently over 50mA must be investigated.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-19-2014 at 09:50 AM.
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  #66  
Old 07-19-2014, 09:52 AM
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Also found this TIS:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 525i battery is dead every morning

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxragtop View Post
Battery Discharge Analysis from the TIS for E39 and applicable to other models. Note two key items (1) Need to wait at least 16 minutes for sleep mode, longer if telephone (2) Removing battery cable, will reset modules. I suggest you fully charge the battery with the negative cable removed then before putting the cable back on, check the current draw say every 5 minutes for 1 hour. Good luck. If the current draw remains, start pulling fuses to isolate. Note my sig, it has a link to electrical details. I'd find the fuses that power the control modules and start removing them one by one waiting the 16 minutes each time.



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  #67  
Old 07-19-2014, 09:56 AM
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Yet another document confirms the 40ma spec for E39 parasitic current drain:
- How to perform BMW Closed-Circuit Current Measurement tests
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Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-19-2014 at 09:58 AM.
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  #68  
Old 07-19-2014, 10:03 AM
pred pred is offline
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Location: Pennsylvania
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: lots of cars
Well that was an interesting read,
after I installed a new battery I drove the car for 10 miles and parked in the drive,
Opened rear hatch and attached clips to - battery and grounding strap and hooped up meter then disconnected the battery and closed hatch and walked away and checked in 30 min,
Reading was .05A
Turned on alarm and checked back in 30 Min to see .06A,
Meter was outside wagon so I could turn meter off and back on when I came back and yes the meter still passes power thru meter so wagon never lost power throughout the night,
IN the morning I checked again and same findings,
NOW that the CD changer and module are unplugged I read .02A without alarm and .03 with alarm.
I think I am onto something in this diagnosis,
Now if I can only figure out what that is,
Bluebee,
Tried to move this to PMs but your box is full.
Im going to let the car sit for a bit and see what happens now,
Lets keep in mind that the radio is still acting funky and the CD change pulls .03 A when OFF<
There is something wrong with that number,

Last edited by pred; 07-19-2014 at 11:51 AM.
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  #69  
Old 07-19-2014, 11:23 AM
pudl pudl is offline
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Location: Ljubljana, Slovenia, EU
 
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Mein Auto: BMW E39 530d Touring
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
To confirm our observations, what would be nice is someone else's measured numbers for quiescent current. Plus the BMW spec.
I went and measured. Battery was bought 2 years ago and goes by the name of Varta G14. Looks to be about 3 years old by color code. Starts a diesel car after 2 weeks of sitting still in winter.

Car awake with inner lights on: 5,9A @ 12,40V (seems like 55W of lights nominal)
Car awake with lights off (trunk door light stays on): 1,3A
Car awake with all lights off (calculated): 0,5A
Car asleep: 25-27mA with 30mA spike @ 12,53V
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  #70  
Old 07-19-2014, 04:50 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by pudl View Post
Car asleep: 25-27mA with 30mA spike @ 12,53V
Thanks for running that test.
Looks like yours is well within spec (mine appears to be double the spec, if my meter is accurately reading the current).
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #71  
Old 07-19-2014, 05:09 PM
pred pred is offline
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Location: Pennsylvania
 
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Bluebee,
This is similar to what I found in my 99 528it with alarm on and CD changer unplugged,
I thought I was doing the right thing by separating the radio thread from the parasitic drain thread to more directly address the issue of the CD changer rather than adding it into the dying battery thread,
I will continue to try and find where my audio system draw orients from over the next couple weeks as I have time,
At least now I can let the car sit for several days without worrying,
Peter
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  #72  
Old 08-10-2014, 08:25 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the general record, I just noticed today that this thread has a lot of information about diagnosing parasites on Fuse F56.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Excessive Battery Draw from FUSE #56 CKT
Quote:
F56 = 30A, (On-board monitor), (CD changer), Radio, (Navigation system) [Black540eye adds On-board Monitor, Radio, Video Module, CD Changer, Amplifier, GPS Control Module, GPS Receiver]
See also:
- How to test a BMW battery & alternator (1) & the most often recommended diagnostic procedure to test for overnight parasitic battery drain (1) & one user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays in the BMW E39 with a picture of every fuse & relay (1) & how to choose a good aftermarket battery (1) and a simple battery replacement DIY (1) & Cn90's explanation of where to get alternator rebuild parts (1) & how to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1) & how to repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1) & how to replace your HVAC blower motor control (1) (E46) & what FSU is the right one to buy based on user experiences (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-10-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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  #73  
Old 08-13-2014, 03:25 AM
allenwilson33 allenwilson33 is offline
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Mein Auto: 02' 525i
Is there a way to test these fuses under passenger seat? I have no crank no start.
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  #74  
Old 08-13-2014, 08:09 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by allenwilson33 View Post
Is there a way to test these fuses under passenger seat? I have no crank no start.
In this thread, the EF fuses caused no cranking in a recent report:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Summary of engine cranks but won't start threads (gas air spark compression timing)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lykkan View Post
I'll add some decent info about fuses.
Bought car, head gasket was blown, head was cracked. Replaced head etc. Reassembled car, turned ignition forward to see if any fuel was leaking, none, so did it again to make sure fuel pump primed it well. Nothing coming out. Turned key forward and tried starting it, got a little bit of a sputter as long as I kept holding the starter for a few seconds. Gave up and checked engine; fuel was spraying out of one of the injectors. After fixing leak, I was getting no fuel pressure whatsoever? Next day, I spent chasing fuses and diagrams, pulled rear fuse for fuel pump and tested continuity between fuse, it was good. Jumped fuel relay, it was good. Visually inspected fuses in "ebox" under passenger-air filter, they all visually looked ok. Hooked up OBDII reader, wasn't communicating with ECM.

I pulled the 5-fuse-holder thing out from the "ebox" and tested each fuse for continuity. One fuse (ecm 30amp) had 30 ohms and would change when moved around. Cosmetically it appeared to be fine (this is why I don't fart around with assuming they're good.) Replaced this fuse and tried starting and she fired right up.
Keep this in mind when chasing electrical gremlins. The OEM BMW fuses they used are poorly designed IMO to have the wire exposed to oxidizing and this is a good example of why.
Good luck!

(stealing this pic from teklord69 above, to assist in explaining where the bad fuse was)
In this thread, water apparently damaged the under-seat fuse panel, causing similar symptoms:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Help with electrical issue please
[img]http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=457922&stc=1&d=1407781007[/img
See also:
- One user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays in the BMW E39 with a picture of every fuse & relay (1)
- Summary of engine cranks but won't start threads due to unspecified gas air spark compression timing problems (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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