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X5 E70 (2007 - current)
Talk about the latest generation X5, codenamed E70, with other BMW owners here. |
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#1
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2008 X5 4.8 - Time for Brakes - Suggestions?
Our brake wear light has illuminated letting us know its time to spend $2k to replace the brakes. BMW dealership wants approximately $500 per wheel plus tax.Has anyone have any of the other Tire/Service centers do this? We have Big O Tires, Les Schwab, Discount Tire among others. All say if I find aftermarket parts they can do the install, but if I go OEM I may as well go to BMW as they can't save me any money at all. I guess my question is, is it worth looking at Aftermarket parts for the Brake job, or just suck it up and spend the 2k and be done with it? Also if using aftermarket, who do you recommend going with? Thoughts.... Thanks! Last edited by Ptrkgmz; 02-05-2013 at 12:06 PM. Reason: adding info |
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#2
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I'd like to see the cost breakdown for the quoted $2k... maybe I should start a side business...
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#3
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I'm with smyles. After market pads, rotors and sensors should be around $600. $1,400 for 2 to 3 hours of labor! I just pickup a 2013 5.0 M sport and changed the pads at 30 miles with Posi Quiet pads $168 and 1.5 hours labor. I did that to eliminate brake dust. This is the third X I have done this on.
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#4
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BMW dealers offer "BMW Value Service". Check it out. They claim that the price is competitive with local independent shops. Disadvantage of going with BMW OE brake pads is that they are dusty!! But they don't require warming up and stop well.
Another excellent resource is Bimmershops.com. Check them out. Make sure the service includes replacing the brake sensor/wear indicator. The sensor is actually a little involved and requires careful routing of the cable into a harness tray. Make sure it is done right. Last but not least, DIY. Doing a brake job is a straightforward procedure. Make sure you have the right TORX/Star socket (#E18) for the caliper bracket bolts. Do not use a 16 point socket! You'll strip the star bolt. I like Zimmermann coated rotors. As far as brake pads: take your pick ... I agree with NCAMG: aftermarket quality parts front and rear about $600 to $800 (rotors, pads and sensors).
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BMWCCA #20645 |
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#5
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Quote:
I like Centric pads and rotors...nothing 'magic' about 'bmw oe parts'...
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Keep it as simple as possible...but no simpler. |
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#6
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My experience with non oe brake/rotors was unrelenting brake squeal and less than optimal braking. Did it once years ago and never to be repeated. False economy IMO
So choose your aftermarket stuff carefully if you go that route AND use an installer who knows what they are doing.
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2008 X5 4.8i Space Gray/Tobacco, Premium, Sport (includes AD), Active Steering, HUD, Tech, Comfort, Cold, Climate Package, 3rd Row, Prem Audio, running boards, OEM hitch 2005 X5 4.8is Imola Red, Nav, Nappa, Comfort seats, OEM hitch 2004 X5 4.4i Sport (sold) 2004 X3 3.0i 6MT (sold) 2002 M5 (sold) |
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#7
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BMWs have floating calipers -- not the best -- so make sure you clean the slides and lube them and also lube the screw in pins. It also helps to coat the back of the pads with anti squeal paste.
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#8
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I just replaced my front brakes today. I used akebono pads and got the set for $87 and the sensor for$21. I didnt replace the rotors yet. It's still within spec. There's a lot of good reviews on the akebono pads (dust is not as bad as OEM). I just got tired of cleaning my wheels every other day due to brake dust.
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#9
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I think unless the car your driving requires special brake pads, sensors, and rotors ala (think Veyron or Enzo), I would not stick with the dealership service after the warranty expires.
First find an indie. Big national auto mechanic chains are a hit and a miss (some are excellent dont get me wrong, but some are what I call breakachanics) Second figure what your looking for in rotors, pads and sensors. If you like what you had before, then just buy the OE parts and ur set. If you want something different, figure out which company and product line suits your individual needs. I remember when a friend of mine put EBC red stuff (since he saw some youtube videos on how amazing they are on the track) on his corolla (never tracked or driven spiritedly) only to find out that when the pads were cold they squealed and were terrible in terms of bite. So figure out which compounds suit your individual needs, and not just purchase whichever brake parts based on the Marketing slogans and bright pictorials. Rotors are dependent again on what your driving style is. If your not tracking your X5 (im positive that 99.9% are not), you can just get some nice blanks from brembo or such and your golden. Avoid slotted and cross drilled as they promote rust and premature failure. Sensors, just use OE spec ones. Third put it all together. If you are truly a preventative freak, I would also change the fluid and check all brake lines for corrosion or failure. If you want to set the standard high grab some high performance replacements and your ok. Hope that helps
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BMW and Mercedes Build Beta Products! Lexus build Release Candidate Products! Why does this matter? CAUSE EVERY TIME someone says Lexus has better build quality, one should consider what Toyota their Lexus Engine and chassis platform comes out of and how long that part has been tested in the real world! |
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#10
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Quote:
Here's BMW's official position on lubing the slide/guide pins. This TIS is from 2001, so there may be an update:
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BMWCCA #20645 |
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#11
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PAX5 that is interesting. I did my brake pads on my 2013 at 30 miles and those pins were lubed with something from the factory. I didn't mess with them at 30 miles because everything was super clean.
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#12
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Yup. Do a google search on lubing BMW guide pins and you'll find a 1000 and 1 opinions on this.
However for me, the most convincing one has to be the one that says that the BMW caliper guide bolts are NOT to be lubricated because the guide is made of rubber. Many [petroleum based] lubricants make rubber swell (a well know phenomenon when using conventional petroleum based engine oils, causing swelling of engine block seals. Leaks occur when you switch to a synthetic oil). A steel guide bolt inserted in a [dry and clean] rubber guide does not bind. Or does it? If you have to lube, I suppose that lubricating the pins with graphite powder or 100% pure silicone is OK? To lube, or not to lube ...
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BMWCCA #20645 |
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#13
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#14
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Quote:
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