What is the secret to removing the diabolical connectors hindering access to Fuse 76

Q: What is the secret to removing the three diabolical connectors hindering access to FSU Fuse F76?

In this thread, I've gone through the parasitic drain test procedure:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > In progress: Step by step diagnostic DIY ... dead battery ... parasitic battery drain

To continue the test, I want to re-insert the yellow 40 amp FSU Fuse F76 - but I can't easily get my hands in there to put the fuse back.

If only I could remove at the very least that larger of three connectors shown below.


QUESTION:
Do you know HOW to remove that larger harness connector?
If so, please share!

Wicca stuff.

edit : of or pertaining to witchcraftery.....

The (2) on the right are similar to the connectors on the back of the cluster, which which I just became familar. Look closely at the small tab on the curved body where it meets the unlocking device (different color). Press the tab in (the one on the right has three or four ribs which help to identifiy it for this purpose), towards the wiring, and it will allow the unlocking device to pivot or swing over it and at that point it will be obvious. The unlocking device works as a kind of arm that catches some ingenious slotting to lock the thing in place. The one on the left, I have no idea. Bluebee, thanks for all your posts!

The one on the left, just slide a small screw driver in the left corner and the connector will slid apart .

Originally Posted by mjalloul11

The one on the left, just slide a small screw driver in the left corner and the connector will slid apart .

I already tried that - but - maybe I just didn't push hard enough.
There were also two little tabs I tried to push in simultaneously.
But it barely budged.

I already broke the white tabs on the clips in the back when I tugged too hard, as can be seen in this picture:


Here's a full-sized picture of the connectors in that picture above:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12126222.jpg

If we can figure out how best to remove them, it would make access to the critical fuse F76 much easier, and it would make parasitic drain problems easier to diagnose.
The Bentley diagrams make is look so easy!

Originally Posted by vatoman

heres how to unlock those connectors
http://www.bmwgm5.com/GM3_E39_Removal.htm

This reference sure looks like it has all the information I need, so I'll try it out tomorrow.

You beat me to it. Slide the big black one. There is ribbed end to it and the others you have to use a bit more force. I know it's hard with these cars and plastic pieces that are so damn fragile.

Originally Posted by dtadrian

You beat me to it. Slide the big black one. There is ribbed end to it and the others you have to use a bit more force. I know it's hard with these cars and plastic pieces that are so damn fragile.

The problem I must have had was that I didn't use enough force (although, trust me, on that big black one, I tugged on the u-shaped clip at left with all the force I had in my fingers, and it only moved a quarter inch - but no more).

On the two levered connectors, I couldn't get the lever over that locking tab.

In both cases, I didn't use tools (for fear of breaking things and making it worse), but I'll try anew with a screwdriver - now that I know force is the answer.

Getting the yellow 40amp FSR fuse F76 out was doable without removing those connectors ... but I'm worried that they must be removed to get the fuse back in.

Wow.

That big black X254 harness connector for the GM3 module took a LOT of force to remove!

But, once removed, I was able to get the blower motor circuit fuse F76 back in place!

Originally Posted by bluebee

..... To continue the test, I want to re-insert the yellow 40 amp FSU Fuse F76 - but I can't easily get my hands in there to put the fuse back.....

Which begs the question: How did you get it out in the first place?


(* I must have really small hands, or having the glovebox out made all the difference.)

Originally Posted by pleiades

How did you get it out in the first place?

I'm lucky that I have small hands!

But, as you surmised, even with little hands, fuse F76 clearly was NOT going to go back in without a fight.

Luckily, removing the big black X254 harness connector to the GM3 module was all that was needed - although - disconnecting THAT connector took more force than I've ever used on ANY plastic connector on the entire bimmer!


LESSON LEARNED:
After having removed & replaced fuse F76, I don't recommend pulling the fuse F75 or F76 unless you absolutely have to. Pull the FSU instead (however, that isn't so easy either).