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  #1  
Old 02-06-2013, 06:42 AM
neurom neurom is offline
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Cernobbio vs Como

I have a driving segment on my June ED between Lauterbrunnen to Levanto. Initially thought of making a stop in Como, just because what I have heard about it. However, I read of stories of how hard it is to drive in Como itself and thought coming from the west side of the Lake that parking in Cernobbio, maybe having lunch at Villa D'Este, would be a better plan. We anticipate we would get to Cernobbio by 11am and would like to get going by 4pm to get to Levanto by 7-8pm before it gets dark. I understand if I wanted to we can then take a 10-15 min ferry to Como. Is it Como really worth it? Is Cernobbio a better destination? Anyone with experience driving into Cernobbio, taking the ferry to Como? I read in Cernobbio there is a parking an underground parking 200m from the conference center, and when I substitute Cernobbio from Como looks like a much easier and 35 mins shorter approach. Any suggestions, including other lakeside restaurants with a view in either Como or Cernobbio in addition to Villa D'Este are welcome. Thank you.
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  #2  
Old 02-06-2013, 10:02 AM
540gone 540gone is offline
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First let me say congrats on a great car and an enviable itinerary. I have been to most of the areas on you route several times and would offer the following:

Villa d'Este - I noticed in your itinerary you prefer smaller towns (me too as I find them a much more authentic "traveller" vs. "tourist" experience, particularly if you stay in smaller locally owned hotels or inns). The Villa d'Este is about as far away from that type of experience as you will find. Make no mistake, it is a beautiful place and the grounds are spectacular. On the other hand, pretty much all you will see there at that time of year are other well-to-do Americans, as it is VERY expensive. I clearly remember 4 cocktails and a couple of appetizers during an afternoon jaunt being more than our lakefront room up the lake a few kilometers (with exactly the same view!)

Como - just another town on Lake Como, but much bigger & lacking the charm of so many other much smaller towns. Don't know why you would want to take much time there during a reasonably full day of driving.

Since Lake Como appears to be an ideal spot for a lunch stop, I would offer the following thought for your consideration - a routing I have taken at least twice. As you arrive into Lugano from the north, cut across on SS340 to Mennagio on Lake Como, and then proceed down the west side of the lake thru Tremezzo, Lenno, Argengo, etc. and then rejoin your planned route south at Como. This is a beautiful drive, and appears to add about an hour of travel time according to Google. You will see many very attractive lakeside locations at which a leisurley lunch will be most enjoyable.

I've tried to attach a picture of the lakeside tables at the Villa Belvedere Hotel in Argegno where we have stayed a couple of times, but I finally gave up in frustration. It is right on the main road thru town with a small shaded parking area off the road adjacent to the hotel. At the lakeside tables, you can literaly put your hand down into the water (if your arms were long enough). The food is great here, but there are tons of options along the lake.

Travel well, Bob
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:49 AM
martyl martyl is offline
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I have been to Cernobbio and Como several times. I much prefer Cernobbio as well as Bellagio over Como. Bellagio is more touristy (more shopping) but it's still beautiful. A great restuarant that is up in the hills in Cernobbio is El Gato Nero. You have a beautiful view of Lake Como when you sit near the windows.Supposedly it's one of George Clooney's hangouts. We've always gone in June and it's one of the best travel experiences I've had. I prefer the intimacy of the small, local places to the Villa d'Este. I"ve been to the VD and eaten lunch there. I thought it was good but not worth the price. The grounds of the VD are gorgeous. Cernobbio has very narrow roads but I've driven in it a few times and you just need to be aware of that. Still my favorite place in Europe.
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:05 PM
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Trinitony Trinitony is offline
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Originally Posted by neurom View Post
I have a driving segment on my June ED between Lauterbrunnen to Levanto. Initially thought of making a stop in Como, just because what I have heard about it. However, I read of stories of how hard it is to drive in Como itself and thought coming from the west side of the Lake that parking in Cernobbio, maybe having lunch at Villa D'Este, would be a better plan. We anticipate we would get to Cernobbio by 11am and would like to get going by 4pm to get to Levanto by 7-8pm before it gets dark. I understand if I wanted to we can then take a 10-15 min ferry to Como. Is it Como really worth it? Is Cernobbio a better destination? Anyone with experience driving into Cernobbio, taking the ferry to Como? I read in Cernobbio there is a parking an underground parking 200m from the conference center, and when I substitute Cernobbio from Como looks like a much easier and 35 mins shorter approach. Any suggestions, including other lakeside restaurants with a view in either Como or Cernobbio in addition to Villa D'Este are welcome. Thank you.
I agree with the other responders, Como (the town) is not worth a visit, while Como the lake is worth a stop. As you are on your way from Lauterbrunnen to Levanto a detour to Cernobbio would be a matter of minutes out of your way. When I stayed in Bellagio I made a point of having lunch at the Villa d'Este. I figured that would be as close as I will ever get to staying at the Villa. The grounds are, as others have said, "spectacular" and make the stop worthwhile. When I lunched there they would not let you onto the grounds unless you were staying there or lunching there - so we lunched.

Every year there is a Concorso d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este. This year it will be at the end of May - too early for you as I think you are going in June. It appears that the Concorso is sponsored or in some way supported by BMW so you might see if they will spring for lunch at the Villa.

If you can spare the time and have a nice day I would take the ferry that goes around the lake stopping at many little towns. It is very scenic and you can get off the ferry to explore any of the towns that appeal to you.
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:57 PM
neurom neurom is offline
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Considering your feedback a stop in Cernobbio is really my best bet, the suggestion of El Gato Nero is an interesting alternative. I appreciate 540gone feedback, sounds like my kind of stops, but they are too out of the way, will make for 8.5 instead of 6.5 of driving with a stop in Cernobbio. I do intend to hop around in the ferry if the time and weather are right. I will pencil it down, will report in July. Thank you very much for your feedback.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:03 PM
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Every year there is a Concorso d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este. This year it will be at the end of May - too early for you as I think you are going in June. It appears that the Concorso is sponsored or in some way supported by BMW so you might see if they will spring for lunch at the Villa.

.
BMW "spring for lunch" ? The cheap Charlie's of the auto industry. Right after they begin springing for your 1st night in Munich when you do ED. As MB already does. Oh and they will start providing taxi's to the hotel, and out to the Welt too. As MB also does.. Please do not hold your breath.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:34 PM
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The drive along the western shore of Lake Como is doable, but you might have some close calls-esp. if you are going to be in a larger BMW. Be careful of the sharp corners, buses, cyclists and mopeds.
The ferry should only be used if you want to go to Bellagio. Como itself is accesible directly by car/road. It is the commercial center of the lake and not particularly interesting.
If you need an overnight stay, I can recommend the Best Western Moltrasio. Great covered parking garage! It is 2-3miles North of the VdE and also has a ferry dock across the street- from which you can ferry up to Bellagio. The ferry ride is a sightseeing tour in and of itself as the ferry zig-zags across the lake, making several stops at the small landings before you eventually hit Bellagio(45mins?).
Enjoy! This area is one of the 3 most pleasant on the face of the planet, IMO.
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:31 PM
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VIZSLA VIZSLA is offline
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Originally Posted by neurom View Post
I have a driving segment on my June ED between Lauterbrunnen to Levanto. Initially thought of making a stop in Como, just because what I have heard about it. However, I read of stories of how hard it is to drive in Como itself and thought coming from the west side of the Lake that parking in Cernobbio, maybe having lunch at Villa D'Este, would be a better plan. We anticipate we would get to Cernobbio by 11am and would like to get going by 4pm to get to Levanto by 7-8pm before it gets dark. I understand if I wanted to we can then take a 10-15 min ferry to Como. Is it Como really worth it? Is Cernobbio a better destination? Anyone with experience driving into Cernobbio, taking the ferry to Como? I read in Cernobbio there is a parking an underground parking 200m from the conference center, and when I substitute Cernobbio from Como looks like a much easier and 35 mins shorter approach. Any suggestions, including other lakeside restaurants with a view in either Como or Cernobbio in addition to Villa D'Este are welcome. Thank you.
We were at the VDE in June and it was great. There were very few Americans if that matters.
The hotel itself is glorious and worth a visit if a stay isn't feasible.

BTW The concourse itself is closed to the general public (if you can book a room you'll get to see it.) but there is an event the next day open to all.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:35 AM
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skywalkerbeth skywalkerbeth is offline
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If you have pretty much a full day, here is what I would do:

540gone has good advice - cut over from Lugano to Menaggio.

My change to his advice would be:

When you get into Menaggio, you can either park there and take the ferry to Bellagio, or, I am pretty sure there is a car ferry to Bellagio. You won't actually need the car in Bellagio and parking should be easier in Menaggio. (I have yet to find really good food in Menaggio so don't bother to eat there unless you've done some research ahead of time.)

There are a plethora of dining choices once you get to Bellagio - many with outdoor terraces.

Or, once in Bellagio, this option is very pleasing:

Walk along the lakefront from the ferry to and through Villa Melzi. Directly on the other side of Villa Melzi (the villa has a long lakefront, very pleasant walk with stunning views) you will be in the tiny tiny hamlet of Loppia.

Alle Darsene di Loppia. Tiny restaurant with an outdoor covered terrace. Excellent food and wine.

http://www.ristorantedarsenediloppia.com/ (closed Mon and Tues).

Figure a 30 minute walk from the ferry and a 30 minute walk back (assuming you stop to take pictures, etc). If you got to Menaggio at, say, 11 AM, you would be back at your car at 3 PM and could continue on your way. June travel will have late daylight so no worries about driving after dark.

The ferry ride alone is worth the stop. The walk through Villa Melzi is worth the stop. Don't look at it as "four hours out of your day", not a minute of this journey is wasted time.


ps. I saw the Concorso d'Eleganza this past May with my Mom. Astounding cars. Some I never knew existed (old ones). I'll dig up some photos at some point. Lots of old BMWs, too, including motorcycles.

ps again. I just read your post that said it wasn't worth it timewise. Honestly, Como/Cernobbio don't really impress me. The true beauty is midlake. You won't "get" the ahhhhhhhhhhhhs that far south. It's practically flat, comparably.

Mid-lake is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen (and I've been around a bit). Look at it as time well spent, not time wasted.
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2013, 05:32 AM
neurom neurom is offline
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Great advise, but some of it will have to be for another trip. I don't really want to do all the driving that going to Menaggio or down the west side of the lake entails, it adds two hours, makes 6.5 hrs of driving 8.5, as I am traveling with two kids (13 and 10). I will park in Cernobbio and that still gives me the option to take the 45 min ferry to Bellagio, still can take your advise of having lunch at Alle Darsene di Loppia, and I can ferry back to Cernobbio and get out into the highway with more ease to get down to Cinque Terre. Thank you for your feedback.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:54 AM
540gone 540gone is offline
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One more bit of advice, whatever driving route you decide on. It is important to know that the schedule back & forth across the mid-lake area is much more frequent than that from further north or south. I would advise you to take a look at the schedule which is online. I can't remember the exact url, but if you Google "Lake Como Navigation" or something of the sort, it will pop up.

The reason I suggest a pretty close look (at the very complex schedule) is that the actual transit times on the lake are not as important as the times BETWEEN scheduled trips. There is also the choice between regular boats or as they refer to them as "fast boats" (catamarans or hydrofoils) on certain routes at certain times, which reduce the actual transit times significantly, particularly on longer routes.

Given your relatively full day, I really think a bit of time spent understanding the schedule of options around the lake is worthwhile. And I agree with Beth, I have been there several times and the mid-lake region is where you want to spend your time.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

One more thing, you keep saying this will add 2 hours to your drive time, but according to Google, if you exit at Manno, Switzerland (on the north side of Lugano as you approach from the north) and then proceed along the north coast of Lake Lugano & then on to Cernobbio via Menaggio, the toal distance and estimated travel time is 63km and 1hr 15min. From Manno to the same point (Cernobbio) by staying on the motorway is 33km and 25min. So it looks like it will add somewhat less than an hour. Trust me, you will eat up WAY more than that trying to get to & from Bellagio on a ferry from Cernobbio as oppossed to from either Mennagio or Tremezzo.

Last edited by 540gone; 02-10-2013 at 12:10 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:10 PM
M FUNF M FUNF is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skywalkerbeth View Post
If you have pretty much a full day, here is what I would do:

540gone has good advice - cut over from Lugano to Menaggio.

My change to his advice would be:

When you get into Menaggio, you can either park there and take the ferry to Bellagio, or, I am pretty sure there is a car ferry to Bellagio. You won't actually need the car in Bellagio and parking should be easier in Menaggio. (I have yet to find really good food in Menaggio so don't bother to eat there unless you've done some research ahead of time.)

There are a plethora of dining choices once you get to Bellagio - many with outdoor terraces.

Or, once in Bellagio, this option is very pleasing:

Walk along the lakefront from the ferry to and through Villa Melzi. Directly on the other side of Villa Melzi (the villa has a long lakefront, very pleasant walk with stunning views) you will be in the tiny tiny hamlet of Loppia.

Alle Darsene di Loppia. Tiny restaurant with an outdoor covered terrace. Excellent food and wine.

http://www.ristorantedarsenediloppia.com/ (closed Mon and Tues).

Figure a 30 minute walk from the ferry and a 30 minute walk back (assuming you stop to take pictures, etc). If you got to Menaggio at, say, 11 AM, you would be back at your car at 3 PM and could continue on your way. June travel will have late daylight so no worries about driving after dark.

The ferry ride alone is worth the stop. The walk through Villa Melzi is worth the stop. Don't look at it as "four hours out of your day", not a minute of this journey is wasted time.


ps. I saw the Concorso d'Eleganza this past May with my Mom. Astounding cars. Some I never knew existed (old ones). I'll dig up some photos at some point. Lots of old BMWs, too, including motorcycles.

ps again. I just read your post that said it wasn't worth it timewise. Honestly, Como/Cernobbio don't really impress me. The true beauty is midlake. You won't "get" the ahhhhhhhhhhhhs that far south. It's practically flat, comparably.

Mid-lake is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen (and I've been around a bit). Look at it as time well spent, not time wasted.
Excellent suggestion, I may add that since you are in Bellagio maybe staying there is a good idea. The Hotel du Lac has limited garage parking and is on the waterfront in Bellagio. If you are "just" going for lunch then be sure to turn right off the ferry rather than left into Bellagio proper. There are more upscale hotels in Bellagio if you desire but the du Lac is very comfortable, family spent 3 nights there when we did the M5 ED. My children (who know a thing or two about Tiramisu) thought the Hotel du Lac had one of the best they had ever eaten. So good in fact that when my daughter was in school last year in Switzerland she and some classmates made a trip to Bellagio to sample it, on the way to Milan for some power shopping with dad's Platinum AMEX card. People only ferry boards in front of the du Lac, the auto ferry is down the shore toward Loppia.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:04 PM
neurom neurom is offline
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Originally Posted by 540gone View Post
One more bit of advice, whatever driving route you decide on. It is important to know that the schedule back & forth across the mid-lake area is much more frequent than that from further north or south. I would advise you to take a look at the schedule which is online. I can't remember the exact url, but if you Google "Lake Como Navigation" or something of the sort, it will pop up.
That is a great specific suggestion, I will certainly study the ferry times. The stop in Lake Como is still a lunch stop that happens to be on the way to Cinque Terre. I don't doubt the mid lake region is great, but we do not want to spend a night there and have to check in and out for one night, burning one night from Levanto. In Viamichelin.com, going from Lauterbrunnen to Levanto and making a stop in Cernobbio is a trip of about 6hr37mins and in Menaggio 8h15min, technically 1hr42 min if I we are to split hairs. But I would rather drive less that day, will be very fatiguing like it is already, and if all I do or have energy or interest for is have lunch in Cernobbio, I would do that and not worry about the ferries. And I would rather spend extra time on a ferry not worrying about driving that add more to an already long driving day. I am sure I am coming back and that area is high on my list, but this time is not a priority.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:29 AM
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skywalkerbeth skywalkerbeth is offline
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Keep in mind:

Cernobbio is not a tiny village although it's not as big as Como. There is still a fair bit of traffic and stoplights and whatnot. El Gato Nero sounds pretty good - I'd suggest having a destination rather than just showing up.

I have no doubt Como has decent restaurants but our various attempts we definitely did not find them. We didn't plan, though, we just showed up. For a quick stop like you have planned, not sure going to Como at all is worth your time. If you do, consider taking the funicular for some views if the weather is fine. We still haven't done that, but if I had a short visit and wanted to be back on the road I'd target something instead of just wandering around.

Out of four visits to Lake Como we've only actually spent time in Como three times and each time was part of an afternoon. Wasn't all that impressed with Como although we did enjoy the seaplane ride that we did once.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:56 AM
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Cernobbio is actually The Spousal Unit's favorite place in all of Italy, and my second fave - and we've been to a lot of places in four trips. I agree that Como itself isn't worth a visit, except that it's the place to get the hydrofoil service to some other point on the lake, but that kind of defeats the charm of taking a day and riding the "local" service vaporetti and hopping on and off in the small towns. There's also a cog railway in Como that takes you up to a little village called Brunate, which affords a nice view, high above the lake. Other than that, meh..

Skywalkerbeth is right that the best part of Como lies between Cernobbio at the south and probably Menaggio to the north. She and I are almost always on the same page, regarding this part of Italy, but I somehow haven't been able to get her to embrace Cernobbio. Guess we'll just have to meet up there again. The drive around either shore of the Como leg of the lake is not for the faint-hearted, but this is one place you should park the car and use the boats instead. It'll be a much nicer experience. Villa d'Este is real Old World Elegance with beautiful grounds, but very, very pricey. For me, not even remotely close to worth the price of admission, except to attend the Concorso. But as always, YMMV.
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