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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 6 Series > E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)

E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 02-07-2015, 05:53 AM
rojeho rojeho is offline
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Mein Auto: 330i, Z3 3.0i, 325Ci, 650
tips to remove the power steering pump?

Tackling the alternator bracket oil leak. I need to slide the power steering pump forward and off of the bracket. I removed the two obvious fasteners at the front top (one nut, one bolt). It still doesn't want to budge. There is so much oil and gunk that it is hard to see. Is it just stuck or is there another fastener that I need to remove? The Pelican guide for the 7 series just shows the two front and then it is supposed to jump right off.
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  #2  
Old 02-07-2015, 06:38 AM
rojeho rojeho is offline
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Mein Auto: 330i, Z3 3.0i, 325Ci, 650
I see that realoem shows one more back there. I wish I could see it or get my hand in there.
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  #3  
Old 02-07-2015, 06:43 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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It is a hex style nut, that is very hard to see. Your best bet is looking thru the drivers side wheel well, & looking at the very back of the steering pump. If you raise the motor some, you can access it from where the alternator was. It is hard to explain, but it is there!
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2015, 07:11 AM
rojeho rojeho is offline
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Mein Auto: 330i, Z3 3.0i, 325Ci, 650
So if I remove the motor mount first I can raise the engine a little and then I can remove the power steering pump next?
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  #5  
Old 02-08-2015, 05:33 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Raising the motor will help gain some extra space. I looked for a pic, & can not locate one in my files. Here is a link for the hole that you are looking for. It is the top right portion of the pic. Hope this helps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-STEERI...d7eaf1&vxp=mtr

http://prussianmotors.com/Empower/Pi..._005882_04.jpg

Last edited by HerbP; 02-08-2015 at 05:37 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2015, 03:19 AM
rojeho rojeho is offline
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I can feel the bolt. I even got a socket and a super short extension on it. With the downward angle and no way to get to it from below I couldn't fit a socket wrench to break it free. That's why your comment of raise the engine first was a bit of an aha moment. I could see three of the motor mount E12 bolts but not the rear lower so I gave up for now. Can you unbolt the motor mount from the car side and raise the engine and then take the mount off of the block or do the four E12 bolts have to come out before lifting?
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2015, 06:23 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojeho View Post
I can feel the bolt. I even got a socket and a super short extension on it. With the downward angle and no way to get to it from below I couldn't fit a socket wrench to break it free. That's why your comment of raise the engine first was a bit of an aha moment. I could see three of the motor mount E12 bolts but not the rear lower so I gave up for now. Can you unbolt the motor mount from the car side and raise the engine and then take the mount off of the block or do the four E12 bolts have to come out before lifting?

You can use a 3" socket extension, & work it thru any hoses that are in the way. You can not remove the motor mount bracket, until the power steering, & alternator bracket has been removed. Look at the link, & remove the bolt directly under the power steering reservoir, on the motor mount bracket. Nut #8 on the pic.

Good Luck!

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E6...ne_suspension/
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2015, 10:26 AM
oRIDDLERo oRIDDLERo is offline
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**** pelican... for not mentioning this last bolt on the power steering pump! Stuck in the middle of the job. I think i see it in the back but it is impossible to get to I have the driver wheel off and the wheel well plastic off too, lifting the motor did not help. What is the best way to get to this damn bolt?? Thanks a million!!

I let the job be for now... The alternator is still out and the fluids are still drained, but if i dont hear back i will need to put the car back together for the work week. At least with the alternator pulled. I get get a better view at the upper timing cover and it is definitely leaking.. Until I fix the upper timing gasket it will basically be impossible to tell if the alternator mounting bracket gasket is even leaking as the oil winds up in the same places, I just figured I would do it proactively while the alternator and oil cooler was out, but i'm stuck on the power steering pump rear bolt! This sucks!

Last edited by oRIDDLERo; 11-21-2015 at 02:42 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2015, 05:44 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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That is the hardest bolt to get to. I think I use a 3" 3/8" extension, with a 5 or 6 mm hex allen head socket. You have to reach down front the front part of the alternator bracket, & slide the socket in place. You have to take your time with this one. You can also look thru the side of the frame rail with the engine raised, to get a look at it. Once you get this bolt out, you will have to use a wrench to loosen the engine mount bolts, with a cheater pipe. A socket will not fit in the space that you have to work with. I would also recommend replacing the motor mount bracket bolts, with a hex head bolt. You can torque them properly, & they are easier to work with. You will probably have another hour or longer, getting the bracket off, to get to the o-ring. I use some gray or black adhesive with the o-ring, to make sure it does not leak.

If you can see your timing cover leaking, I would probably skip removing the o-ring, unless you can see it leaking. You still have another adventure waiting with getting the valve cover on & off.

These are 2 of the hardest jobs on our engines.
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  #10  
Old 11-21-2015, 06:53 PM
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amennrahh amennrahh is offline
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2015, 06:14 PM
syrius750Li syrius750Li is offline
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Location: Fort Worth
 
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Mein Auto: 2007 750Li
Unhappy OIL Leak...Alt bracket gasket nightmare!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by oRIDDLERo View Post
**** pelican... for not mentioning this last bolt on the power steering pump! Stuck in the middle of the job. I think i see it in the back but it is impossible to get to I have the driver wheel off and the wheel well plastic off too, lifting the motor did not help. What is the best way to get to this damn bolt?? Thanks a million!!

I let the job be for now... The alternator is still out and the fluids are still drained, but if i dont hear back i will need to put the car back together for the work week. At least with the alternator pulled. I get get a better view at the upper timing cover and it is definitely leaking.. Until I fix the upper timing gasket it will basically be impossible to tell if the alternator mounting bracket gasket is even leaking as the oil winds up in the same places, I just figured I would do it proactively while the alternator and oil cooler was out, but i'm stuck on the power steering pump rear bolt! This sucks!

I feel your pain , I'm about to do the same thing to my car, it had a big oil leak and didn't know where it was coming from until I googled it....I got a little depressed about it since it's the only car I have and if I need to get tools/parts, I have to ask for a ride... the car is on jack stands right now with the alternator about to be removed, but it got dark and cold a decided on doing it tomorrow...I'll try to find a way to make this job easier as I work my way around it...Good luck to you...
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2015, 08:00 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syrius750Li View Post
I feel your pain , I'm about to do the same thing to my car, it had a big oil leak and didn't know where it was coming from until I googled it....I got a little depressed about it since it's the only car I have and if I need to get tools/parts, I have to ask for a ride... the car is on jack stands right now with the alternator about to be removed, but it got dark and cold a decided on doing it tomorrow...I'll try to find a way to make this job easier as I work my way around it...Good luck to you...

It is going to be a long day tomorrow. Remove the nut that holds the motor mount, & raise the engine for more room. Remove the drivers side wheel, to look thru the frame rail. While the engine is lifted you can use a 3" 3/8" extension with a 5 or 6mm hex head, to remove the hidden bolt. After that you will have to fight with the male torx screws, that hold the motor mount bracket in place. A 3/8" wrench with a cheater will be the easiest way to get the bolts loose. There is not enough room to get a socket on all of the bolts.

Be patient!
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2015, 07:15 PM
oRIDDLERo oRIDDLERo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syrius750Li View Post
I feel your pain , I'm about to do the same thing to my car, it had a big oil leak and didn't know where it was coming from until I googled it....I got a little depressed about it since it's the only car I have and if I need to get tools/parts, I have to ask for a ride... the car is on jack stands right now with the alternator about to be removed, but it got dark and cold a decided on doing it tomorrow...I'll try to find a way to make this job easier as I work my way around it...Good luck to you...
Let us know how it goes for you tomorrow, try and take some pictures of any pain in the ass stuff and the tools / techniques you used to get past them!

I gave up on that last bolt power steering screw because i need the car for the next day, but ill be back for it in the spring!
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2015, 08:56 PM
syrius750Li syrius750Li is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oRIDDLERo View Post
Let us know how it goes for you tomorrow, try and take some pictures of any pain in the ass stuff and the tools / techniques you used to get past them!

I gave up on that last bolt power steering screw because i need the car for the next day, but ill be back for it in the spring!

Having the right tools really helped, the motor mount bolts were a little tricky but I got them out using a couple of extensions and a swivel socket, after I loosened them up I used my drill to remove them a little faster, I raised the engine with a floor jack just a few inches to get the mount out..also I have the oil cooler option on the bracket, removing those hex style bolts were a challenge especially the one behind the oil lines , I was using an L hex tool and turning it little by little until it came to me an easier way to remove the bolt....I was about to remove the oil lines which would have made it easier, but instead I put a 3" extension in between the lines and the socket with the hex bit after, otherwise if you try to put both together they won't go in. After putting it all together one of the mount bolts wouldn't go in, so I decided to just use 3. I checked for leaks and thank God there were none ...I wish I could've taken more pics or video but I was on my own..I forgot to mention that along with the new gasket I also used red gasket maker..permatex I think? I posted some pictures on a new post I made...so if anybody in Texas ever needs help....I'll be glad to lend a hand...
'
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  #15  
Old 06-01-2017, 01:01 AM
Bimmer707 Bimmer707 is offline
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Location: bay area, ca
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 745li
Just a quick tip... these e65/e66 have 2 different water pumps.... well at least the bolt pattern is different... go to realoem.com and put your vin in and see which water pump your car has...
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  #16  
Old 06-01-2017, 04:37 PM
6 Five-O 6 Five-O is online now
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Mein Auto: '07 650i, '98 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer707 View Post
Just a quick tip... these e65/e66 have 2 different water pumps.... well at least the bolt pattern is different... go to realoem.com and put your vin in and see which water pump your car has...
Thanks for this post, it literally made me smile today
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