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  #1  
Old 02-10-2013, 08:23 AM
mrtom82 mrtom82 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 BMW 325xi
Help! drivers side window/mirror switches not working

I have a 2006 325xi and all of the drivers side window and mirror controls stopped working. I checked all the fuses, nothing's blown, the window switches work on all the other doors. The drivers side switches are lit so they have power but they just don't function at all.

I think this might have something to do with the folding mirrors. I pressed the button last night for the first time in over a year and the mirrors folded up just fine and when I tried to unfold them the next day is when all the switches stopped working. I manually put the mirrors back in place but that didn't help. I also noticed a burning smell coming from the drivers side mirror which I think is the mirror motor.

I don't care that much about the folding mirrors but I desperately need my window switches to work. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can reset everything so my window switches work? I don't have the money to fix the mirror (if that really is the problem) and I almost never use that feature anyway.
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  #2  
Old 02-10-2013, 10:07 AM
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BashedBarrique BashedBarrique is offline
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Are you sure that you checked all the fuses involved? Sounds like a fuse, or possibly a relay issue.

Electric folding mirrors? Hmmm, I wonder if my car (2006 325i) has that? Where is the switch?
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:18 AM
mrtom82 mrtom82 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BashedBarrique View Post
Are you sure that you checked all the fuses involved? Sounds like a fuse, or possibly a relay issue.

Electric folding mirrors? Hmmm, I wonder if my car (2006 325i) has that? Where is the switch?
I checked all the fuses and the lights on the switches is on so it's getting power. The button for the mirrors is right above the window switches, it's a small, round black button and it's right next to the right/left mirror adjustment switch.

I read a few posts from people with the same issue and from what i've read the motor for the folding mirror will cause all the switches to not work if the mirror is out of place. the posts I read talked a lot about the problem but I couldn't find a solution that didn't involve replacing the bad motor in the mirror. Since I'm not 100% sure that is the problem I don't want to go spending money I don't have replacing the motor if it might not solve the problem.
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  #4  
Old 02-10-2013, 04:11 PM
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BashedBarrique BashedBarrique is offline
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I looked and I don't have a switch there. No power folding mirrors for me.

Oh well, based on your issue it sounds like they may be more problem than they're worth. I have never felt it was any big deal to just fold them manually. Of course I have a two car garage with individual doors and it is kind of a tight squeeze going in and out. It might be nice to fold the mirrors in as I pull in.

Anyway, if you go to http://www.eastwood.com/ you can buy little tools to take off the door panels that are fairly inexpensive and easy to use.

Good luck!
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  #5  
Old 02-23-2013, 11:00 AM
dolph dolph is offline
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Post E92 drivers window/mirror consule not working

I had the same problem when i fitted a second hand drivers side mirror to my car. Windows or the mirror wouldn't work via drivers side switch and the mirror glass just dipped to the floor.
I checked all the fuses and had it into an auto electricians and he was stumped...anyway after spending a full day stripping out both mirrors i found that if i unplugged the mirror, turned the ignition off then on again the window switches and passenger side mirror could be used using the drivers side module again, so basically if it stops working then the drivers side mirror motor has stopped working and pulls the whole console down.

So if you're having this issue, remove the plastic mirror cover on the inside of the door, unplug the mirror, turn the ignition off and remove the key for 2 minutes, insert the key back in the ignition and everything should work again (except from the drivers side mirror you've just unplugged).
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2013, 11:01 AM
dolph dolph is offline
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Post E92 drivers window/mirror consule not working

I had the same problem when i fitted a second hand drivers side mirror to my car. Windows or the mirror wouldn't work via drivers side switch and the mirror glass just dipped to the floor.
I checked all the fuses and had it into an auto electricians and he was stumped...anyway after spending a full day stripping out both mirrors i found that if i unplugged the mirror, turned the ignition off then on again the window switches and passenger side mirror could be used using the drivers side module again, so basically if it stops working then the drivers side mirror motor has stopped working and pulls the whole console down.

So if you're having this issue, remove the plastic mirror cover on the inside of the door, unplug the mirror, turn the ignition off and remove the key for 2 minutes, insert the key back in the ignition and everything should work again (except from the drivers side mirror you've just unplugged).
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2013, 11:46 AM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolph View Post
So if you're having this issue, remove the plastic mirror cover on the inside of the door, unplug the mirror, turn the ignition off and remove the key for 2 minutes, insert the key back in the ignition and everything should work again (except from the drivers side mirror you've just unplugged).

OP knows his mirror has a prob and system failed at that time.

Ain't rocket science! Disconnect bad part; see what happens. Assume OP's not familiar with circuit analysis so.....evidently not wanting to take it to BMW....shadetree maint.

OP might also want to check codes. If OP's unfamiliar with that, [click here]
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  #8  
Old 05-10-2013, 12:33 PM
c1coolma c1coolma is offline
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did you ever get to the bottom of this? I have the same problem, took it to my mechanic (thought is was the switch), he replaced it and still the same problem. he gave up after three days of working on it and couldn't figure out the problem
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  #9  
Old 06-30-2013, 10:09 PM
wilsonmc00 wilsonmc00 is offline
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Door mirrors and passenger window switches, and lock

Hi,

I have this exact issue where the drivers door will not lock with the remote, the passenger windows dont work from the drivers control panel, and the drivers mirror would not fucntion from the control, but would just tilt down when reversing.
I tried what was said in this post, ie, disconnecting the drivers mirror wires, turning ignition off, and removing the key, but did not work for me, In fact something quite strange accured when I connected the drivers mirror back up. The drivers mirror now works again, but now the passenger one does not.
These E53 X5 electrics are a pain. Any other suggestions please ?
I have tried resetting error codes using INPA, but now luck. Nothing in the menus for windows or locks anyway.
I also replaced the lock actuator, thinking that might be the cause.
Fuses all good.

Getting closer to visiting the stealer, but would like to fix it myself if poss.

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  #10  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:48 PM
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sptt144 sptt144 is offline
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Don't waste your time checking codes! Take the mirror off and disconnect from the ciruit. Use a voltmeter to see if you are getting power to your contacts at the end of your harness when activating the mirror the way you want to. Should be an on/off type voltage. If yes your problem is within the switch (relay) itself (common Mercedes Benz issue I had) or a fuse/relay(usually under the switch). If not, it is within the mirror's motor/servo armature windings. Try to manually adjust the mirror to where it needs to be. Reinstall and activate. Does it work? No? New mirror. Yes but not smoothly, still a new mirror. It's basic + or - voltage and a motor. You can use a voltmeter. I always have.

Click HERE to get one!

Last edited by sptt144; 07-02-2013 at 11:58 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-03-2013, 12:12 AM
wilsonmc00 wilsonmc00 is offline
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Thanks, will check that out with a meter, although disconnecting the mirror wiring at the switch does the same thing as disconnecting it at the mirror if you trace the harness. Easier to disconnect from switch and measure the voltage on the pins as a first step, then maybe at mirror.
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2013, 01:00 AM
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sptt144 sptt144 is offline
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Re: Help! drivers side window/mirror switches not working

Whatever if easier. Same concept. Report back!

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  #13  
Old 08-23-2013, 01:03 AM
wilsonmc00 wilsonmc00 is offline
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Question Drivers door switch block replaced, same problem

Guys,

Still got this same issue where the windows passenger door and rear doors windows cannot be controlled from the Drivers console. The drivers door window button works, but not in one shot mode, you have to push/pull the button for it too work, despite resetting the upper and lower stop points.
Also the drivers door lock still not working with the remote. Have to lock it manually (doing this does not lock the other doors).
The final issue I have is that the passenger door mirror will not operate from the drivers door. However, it does auto-tilt when reversing. The drivers door mirror can be controlled from the drivers door console.
I have just replaced the drivers door switch block/console, and it has still not fixed the problem. I have tested the wiring, and cannot find any loose connections or broken pins.
I tried disconnecting the mirror, but still does not resolve any of these issues.
When I run the INPA software, I see error code 162 "open circuit mirror heating bt or cable". If I clear the code, it returns after a while.
Any ideas PLEASE. running out of ideas ??
The only thing I was thinking was, could it be the Hall sensors in the drivers door Lock mech ? If they think the door is open, it might be shorting something else out somewhere, and bringing the console down.
Any ideas PLEASE. running out of ideas ??

Last edited by wilsonmc00; 08-23-2013 at 01:06 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2013, 01:20 AM
wilsonmc00 wilsonmc00 is offline
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Fixed IT !!

Guys,

Finally found the problem today and fixed it. It was a broken wire in the rubber sheath between the Drivers door and the door pillar believe it or not. It was coloured red and blue, and I am guessing it is the P-Bus control wire to the Driver Door switch block.
I had checked in this area before but did not spot the broken wire. It was a clean break, so not quite sure how it happened. Maybe just stretched over time, as it did seem a bit short. Anyway, after stripping the whole door down and this connecter for about the millionth time, I am very pleased to have fixed it.
Basically I just soldered in a new short section of wire between the two broken ends, and covered with heat shrink. I had to however, cut the trianglar shaped hood off and re-glue it back on after to gain access to the broken wire.
After putting it all back together, all the windows, central locking and mirrors work as they should. I left the replacement drivers door switch module in place, as when I tested my old one, the rear passenger window would not operate from it.
Very pleased to have my car working properly again.
I have included some pics of the issue and repair.
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Last edited by wilsonmc00; 08-24-2013 at 01:31 AM.
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2013, 11:50 AM
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3SJetblack 3SJetblack is offline
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Help! drivers side window/mirror switches not working

Great work!


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  #16  
Old 01-04-2015, 04:28 PM
flflyer flflyer is offline
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Exclamation May not be the switch

How come the switch does not work for the passenger window, even though the right mirror automatically adjusts down when switching into reverse?

That is because the electronics that scans the switch is contained in the driver side mirror!

So don't be in a hurry to buy a new switch!

Take the switch out (pull off the "hat" and pull up on the switch stem with pliers, or pry it out with a flathead screwdriver).

Disconnect the switch. With ignition switch in position 1 or higher, measure voltage on the multi-colored (not the brown one, which is ground) wires. They should have a voltage (sorry, I didn't measure it, certainly more than 2 volts) relative to car ground. These three wires are connected via the purple connector inside the door to the mirror. The white connector contains ground, +12 volts (supply) and the "bus" line (closest to the notch in the connector). The bus line is used to communicate to the rest of the car. Typically you should be able to measure close to 12 volts on that line (10 volts is probably OK). (If you have an oscilloscope, you'll see the 10-12 volts with short 0 volt "wake-up signals -- the car telling the mirror electonics to wake up).

In my case, I removed the mirror assembly -- someone posted a video on uTube on how to do that.
Even though someone wrote that the mirror glass pops right out, I was able to carefully unscrew the four black phillips head screws under the mirror, making it possible to make more room to take the mirror apart without breaking the small plastic tabs. If you have the heated mirror, be careful to remove the wires going to the glass.

I then unscrewed the three blank phillips head screws and removed the round plastic cover, allowing access to the circuit board. In my case, corrosion had eaten through the copper traces on the flexible cable where it enters the circuit board in the mirror. I carefully removed the transparent gel over the circuit board where the flat cable enters it and was able to solder on thin wire to bridge the break. After testing the repair (connecting switch and mirror connectors), I applied clear silicone over the now exposed circuit board and flat cable, before putting the round plastic cover back on. In my case, both the supply (+12V) and signal -- bus -- lines were disconnected (broken).

If electronics repair is not your strong side, buying a replacement mirror assembly may be the better solution.

Last edited by flflyer; 01-04-2015 at 04:57 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2015, 08:01 PM
elizabethturley elizabethturley is offline
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2002 bmw 330i series

Quote:
Originally Posted by sptt144 View Post
Whatever if easier. Same concept. Report back!

Sent from my SCH-I405 using BimmerApp mobile app
Greetings, I have a 2002bmw 330i series. Passenger side and drivers window stopped operating. Where may I locate the correct fuse to the front window controls? I located the interior fuse box in the glove box...just don' know what fuse controls windows. Please help. Thank you ...Liz. PS,, where may I find a drivers side sun visor??
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2015, 04:46 AM
flflyer flflyer is offline
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Fuses

In my 2004 325i there is a white card that gives locations and amps for each fuse.
Does yours not have that?

Finn

Quote:
Originally Posted by elizabethturley View Post
Greetings, I have a 2002bmw 330i series. Passenger side and drivers window stopped operating. Where may I locate the correct fuse to the front window controls? I located the interior fuse box in the glove box...just don' know what fuse controls windows. Please help. Thank you ...Liz. PS,, where may I find a drivers side sun visor??
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2015, 11:06 PM
elizabethturley elizabethturley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flflyer View Post
In my 2004 325i there is a white card that gives locations and amps for each fuse.
Does yours not have that?

Finn
Greetings, I have the card locating fuses and replaced window fuses,,,window worked once then stopped. I was told I need new switch. What would cause transmission fluid to pass into radiator? Cost for repair??? Thank You very much.
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  #20  
Old 04-26-2015, 05:29 AM
flflyer flflyer is offline
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See my earlier post about the switch. Sounds like you'll need new mirror assembly, not a new switch.
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  #21  
Old 06-11-2015, 07:25 AM
BimmerM3inGA BimmerM3inGA is offline
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I had the same issues as wilsonmc00 with a recently purchased 2002 X5 4.6is, but I'll add that in addition the symptoms he had, none of the interior or exterior courtesy lights worked, and the window switches didn't light up when the headlights were switched on.

But before taking the door apart to look for a broken wire, I decided to take a more pragmatic approach. I removed the switch assembly from the driver's door, and even though it was very clean on the outside, when I removed the connectors one of them had what looked like soft drink residue inside of it. Maybe a drink was spilled when being passed through the window at a drive thru?

I removed the pins from the connector one at a time and sprayed each one with electrical contact cleaner, and also sprayed it into the connections on the switch assembly. Then I applied dielectric grease to each of the pins and plugged everything back in.

That seems to have worked. I can now control all 4 windows and both mirrors from the driver seat, all 4 doors lock and unlock when using the key, and all the courtesy lights now work.

It's curious that the circuit for the courtesy lights passes through the window switch assembly, but I suppose BMW had a good reason for doing it! I'm just relieved that for once an electrical problem on a BMW was relatively easy to solve.
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  #22  
Old 07-24-2015, 02:32 PM
ugeek ugeek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elizabethturley View Post
Greetings, I have the card locating fuses and replaced window fuses,,,window worked once then stopped. I was told I need new switch. What would cause transmission fluid to pass into radiator? Cost for repair??? Thank You very much.
Lovely Liz,
Transmission cooler failure is the reason you find coolant in the transmission or vise/versa. Coolant is generally higher pressure but if your radiator is low or sucks (literally, when steam condenses and water cools), then it can go the other way. Transmission coolers are integrated into the radiator....therefore, you need a new radiator. Not a common failure. PM if you need help finding a deal on a radiator....

Window, did the fuse blow again? First thing to check. Not likely as one fuse will service all windows. The relay for up/down is generally (most cars) located in the drivers door switch module. Meaning, that module, with all the switches on it, is the likely suspect although more testing is needed to make a 100% diagnostic conclusion. I am about 60-70% sure that is your most likely failure. Feel free to PM any questions....
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  #23  
Old 07-24-2015, 02:38 PM
ugeek ugeek is offline
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Wow, really.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsonmc00 View Post
Guys,

Finally found the problem today and fixed it. It was a broken wire in the rubber sheath between the Drivers door and the door pillar believe it or not. It was coloured red and blue, and I am guessing it is the P-Bus control wire to the Driver Door switch block.
I had checked in this area before but did not spot the broken wire. It was a clean break, so not quite sure how it happened. Maybe just stretched over time, as it did seem a bit short. Anyway, after stripping the whole door down and this connecter for about the millionth time, I am very pleased to have fixed it.
Basically I just soldered in a new short section of wire between the two broken ends, and covered with heat shrink. I had to however, cut the trianglar shaped hood off and re-glue it back on after to gain access to the broken wire.
After putting it all back together, all the windows, central locking and mirrors work as they should. I left the replacement drivers door switch module in place, as when I tested my old one, the rear passenger window would not operate from it.
Very pleased to have my car working properly again.
I have included some pics of the issue and repair.
AWESOMENESS Impressive to find a broken wire in a harness of spaghetti...
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