JB4 and DCI installed

Originally Posted by German Steel

That is what I'm asking about.....

I appreciate the bit on gas milage too. It makes sense.

The longer I have this car and the more I learn from my friends here the better the car is to me.

Crossing my fingers for some finance to come through for the JB4. Thanks Again.

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Where in Durham you are? I lived near Southpoint when i was a student.

Originally Posted by Oceans10

you will burn more gas if you drive more aggressively. Coasting at relatively steady highway speed there is zero difference. The turbos disengage and you run on normal combustion. With JB4 set on map 5 you can reach up to 17-18 psi of boost. Stock boost is only 8-9 psi, so this is basically double. Obviously when you add more boost it will also burn more fuel. But generally speaking your gas mileage will not suffer. I have gotten 450 miles out of a tank on a long trip and my car is fully modded.

Anyway after you install a tune you won't give a crap about gas mileage. You'll be fighting to wipe that grin off your face.

Thanks. That's exactly the answer I was hoping for

Originally Posted by F1.tifosi

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Where in Durham you are? I lived near Southpoint when i was a student.

Near Biscuitville on the CH BLVD. Worked at Dook for 35 yr. Now retired and appreciating the finer things in life so I bought a used 535xi. I had no idea.........

Originally Posted by German Steel

Near Biscuitville on the CH BLVD. Worked at Dook for 35 yr. Now retired and appreciating the finer things in life so I bought a used 535xi. I had no idea.........

Nice to know.. hope you are having fun with the car..

Originally Posted by Oceans10

PN,

The DCI is not making the air hotter. There is plenty of air entering through the front kidney grill, and testing proves that cold air intakes are a myth.

Actually, the opposite is true. Tests show DCI's cause a loss of power under aggressive driving conditions due to the higher inefficiency of hotter air intake being sucked in under that hot hood. The N54 does run extremely hot. You may be referring to tests on a dyno machine which support your point, but those tests are made with an open hood and relatively cooler engine temperatures, which are not how a car normally operates.

I'm not familiar with the FMIC mod you speak of, but if it can channel more cool air under the hood, that would correct the problem.

Y'all just made me spend $600.00! Thanks. Hopefully it arrives before the weekend, I feel like a kid waiting on Santa clause.

You will not regret it!

I have DCI also and I have a continuous view of the intake air temp. Almost regardless of the ambient air temperature my IAT is 18-20 warmer when just cruising around town.

This is hardly a concern in my mind. If the air picks up 20 deg or less Whether it is 15 deg outside or 85 deg then that tells me the IAT is more dependent on the ambient air temp than The temp of my engine. Hot air would have a larger temp delta in the winter than the summer and that does not seem to be the case. If there is a small increase in the air temp that is a fair trade for the decreased restrictions so we can move more air.

I would like to put the stock Intake in and see what the temp delta is. Would be interesting to see.

So, my JB4 and DCI came in the mail last Thursday. Had a long day at work, but that night I was determined to install them. While driving down to my work shop, I get a message on idrive saying engine overheating ,reduced power and the car all but stopped. I pulled over to let it cool down. I was only 1/2 mile from my house so I was determined to get home. After letting it cool down I made it 1/3 of the way home, never being able to go over 10 mph. Had to make 3 stops. In hindsight I'm a dumb ass, should have never drove anymore. Had it towed to my trusted indy the next day. They called and said the water pump had went out and caused the spark plugs to foil and thermostat went bad. $1710.00 to fix including tow fee. Then said there may be internal engine damage but no way to know until performing the 1710.00 repair. Compression test and leak down test wouldn't be effective as the engine would be cold. If there was internal damage it would pretty much mean engine is ruined, new engine would be approximately 15k plus labor................. 3 months out of warranty.

Got good news on Tuesday, car repaired and engine is fine. I couldn't sleep worth a damn all weekend. JB4 and DCI is still sitting in the back seat. A little voice in my head is saying it was an omen, but I refuse to believe it. I'm going to give it a couple weeks and then install it.

Moral of the story................ if your car over heats, pull over, get it towed, get a ride home. Most of you probably already know that and now I do too....................

Sure do wish I had a temp gauge and a dipstick. Never thought I would ever wish I had those until this car.

This may have been answered previously so forgive me if it has. For those of you that have the JB4 installed, do you remove it when you take your car in for warranty service work? Any stored codes or loss of historical data? Or do you deactivate it and leave it in.
thanks, Steve

Deactivate it and leave it in

Originally Posted by Rob3980

Deactivate it and leave it in

^^THIS^^



People are way too paranoid about the tuner. Just shut it off and it's invisible. Codes can be deleted at your will if you desire at the steering wheel.

BMW techs do NOT go into the ECU when servicing your car. They don't care. They make money fixing things, not busting your chops and wasting time taking cars apart looking for nonsense. That is IF they cared. My service rep knows about my tuner and doesn't care about it.

Originally Posted by PolkNole

^^THIS^^



People are way too paranoid about the tuner. Just shut it off and it's invisible. Codes can be deleted at your will if you desire at the steering wheel.

BMW techs do NOT go into the ECU when servicing your car. They don't care. They make money fixing things, not busting your chops and wasting time taking cars apart looking for nonsense. That is IF they cared. My service rep knows about my tuner and doesn't care about it.

Great reply. Thanks!! It moves us closer to pulling the trigger and gettin a JB4

I had a concern about it being an issue with my extended warranty as well. Also reading comments/post in the forum about JB4 vs Dinan, I think i'm going to install the JB4. This forum is good for a 1st time BMW owner. Helped me to replace front rotors/pads, plugs, coils and air filters. Thanks!

Originally Posted by PolkNole

Actually, the opposite is true. Tests show DCI's cause a loss of power under aggressive driving conditions due to the higher inefficiency of hotter air intake being sucked in under that hot hood. The N54 does run extremely hot. You may be referring to tests on a dyno machine which support your point, but those tests are made with an open hood and relatively cooler engine temperatures, which are not how a car normally operates.

I'm not familiar with the FMIC mod you speak of, but if it can channel more cool air under the hood, that would correct the problem.

The 535 already has an FMIC, front mounted intercooler. But it is a bit undersized, especially when you increase the boost level with a tuning chip. So in order to cool down Internal Ambient Temperature (IAT) we replace it with a much larger one that cools more efficiently and also has larger diameter tubing to push more air through.
Cooler air means denser fuel mixture. The gain is typically in the 20-25 WHP range.
The gain is very noticeable, and the car feels much more responsive to the throttle due to the less restrictive flow.
Also, the hotter it is outside, the bigger the drop. I would consider it a must for anyone living in the south.

I have an Evolution Racewerks FMIC. Helix and Cp-e also make versions that fit the 535.

So I installed both the JB4 and the DCI last night. The you tube video wasn't nearly as helpful as I had hoped, mainly with removing all the access panels. I think the video was for a 335 maybe?

Anywho.......... When I was finished, it was dark and I was tired so I didn't get a chance to fully test it, but the little bit I did........... WHOA!!!!!!!!!!! It's nothing short of amazing. WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!

For $600 you won't get a better bang for your buck. Just had my dp's installed yesterday and haven't really got to test then yet because it's snowing hard here

Only reference to maintaining the new intake was to clean it every 10-20k miles (i'll choose the 10k) but nothing about coating it with oil. I used to have a Harley and I had a K&N filter on it, and I had to coat it with K&N oil every so often. I noticed the the filters I installed had a oily feel to them. Does that mean I need to put a light coat of the K&N oil on these every time I clean them?

Yes, use the K&N cleaner and oil to recoat them. Once every 20,000 miles is fine. Or when they get darkish with dirt. Just a light coat.

So I installed it, everything went good for a little while, but Friday evening after having a few joy rides, i pulled into my driveway and the engine malfunction reduced power notification came up. I plugged up the laptop to the JB4, deleted the old codes from when my water pump went bad and such, then the code that popped back up is "2ABD intake pressure sensor, re-running".

I'm in touch with Burger, actually I'm somewhat impressed they responded on a Saturday and once on Sunday to help me through the process, so I'm not complaining about them in any way.

Has anyone else had issues with this code popping up after installing the JB4? Luckily this car isn't my daily driver or I'd be stuck without a car right now.

Nothing against JB4, i have seen many cases like this on different forums and hence opted for Cobb..

I am not saying Cobb is smooth and error free, but compared to any other tune.. Cobb has been reliable..

But experts who run JB4 can advice how to overcome these issues..

Good Luck

These are usually boost codes, where the car's sensors are experiencing values that are outside their expected limits. Sometimes they clear themselves and don't reoccur. It can also be caused while JB4 is auto tuning itself, could be many reasons. I have two cars on JB4 G5 ISO and never get these errors anymore. PM me if you want further input. Maybe I can give you some tips for configuring the software some. Also if you are not running ISO I highly recommend it. It means JB4 is managing the fuel mapping instead of adjusting to BMW's algorithms. Much smoother and linear, plus delivers more power in low rev band where you do a lot of normal driving.