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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-18-2013, 07:12 AM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Alternator

Hello every one. Can my alternator be rebuilt instead of buying a new one?
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2013, 07:16 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Yes
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  #3  
Old 02-18-2013, 07:16 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Depending on the damage, yes. Do a search for more info.
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  #4  
Old 02-18-2013, 07:41 AM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Thanks , I will start searching, but first I got to take it off. lol When I try to start my car all I hear is click click click and my dash dimes down. I put a new battery a few months ago.
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  #5  
Old 02-18-2013, 08:06 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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So you haven't checked the charging voltage?
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2013, 09:30 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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It is very difficult to find parts for the V8 alternator rebuild. Search forum for previous posts.
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2013, 09:35 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Also, look at the post by "JimLev" in the DIY below:

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/130...ATE-(OEM-stuff!!!)
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2013, 09:58 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
It is very difficult to find parts for the V8 alternator rebuild. Search forum for previous posts.
I found them online quite easily. Some ebay sellers have them and atleast Smith Co Electric has them:

http://www.smithcoelectric.com/servl...-900529/Detail
http://www.smithcoelectric.com/servl...0905055/Detail
http://www.smithcoelectric.com/servl...44.5201/Detail
http://www.smithcoelectric.com/servl...sh-1549/Detail
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:00 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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Make sure you get a kit that includes bearings NOT made in China.
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  #10  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:09 PM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Hello guys, Thank you for all your replies. I want to check to voltage but my car wont stay on. It will start up but will turn off immidiately. Then my battery light comes on along with the Engine Falesafe prog. Dont you need to have the car running to check the voltage? Or is there another way. I had just replaced my alternator about four years ago but I had an oil leak and it got covered with oil. Not sure if the oil would damage it.
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  #11  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:17 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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At rest, overnight, the battery voltage s/b 12.5+. With the engine running at 1000 RPM, it s/b 14+.
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  #12  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:41 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gootz4u View Post
Hello guys, Thank you for all your replies. I want to check to voltage but my car wont stay on. It will start up but will turn off immidiately. Then my battery light comes on along with the Engine Falesafe prog. Dont you need to have the car running to check the voltage? Or is there another way. I had just replaced my alternator about four years ago but I had an oil leak and it got covered with oil. Not sure if the oil would damage it.
The car needs to be running to check alternator output voltage. Most places can't test this water cooled alternator, if it is removed from the car. Charge the battery overnight and start it the next morning, if the issue is just the alternator car will run just fine for the time it takes you to check the voltage.
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  #13  
Old 02-18-2013, 02:04 PM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Sounds great, I will take it to autozone so they can charge it then try to start it up.
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  #14  
Old 02-21-2013, 04:20 AM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Ok, I got the bettery fully charged and put it on and started it but it did not stay on. So its not the alternator. I did get a new message that said, Check Brake Light. Maybe the car wash did jack something up. I dont have a check engine light on and I still have the engine falesafe prog. Could and air bag light keep the car from running or could it be my brakes?
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2013, 05:41 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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How mant times would you estimate your battery has been discharged to completely dead?
Charge your battery to full again. I don't know how you will get your car to autozone so do this instead. Charge battery fully. Overnight on a fairly low setting. When you are sure battery is charged, hook-up a voltmeter to the battery and see what the voltage is before starting, but with charger disconnected. Have someone start the car for you and watch the voltage until the car dies. If the voltage is say 12.5 after charged overnight and then car starts and battery voltage drops almost immediately to 9 volts or less, your battery is now toast from deep cycle discharging and there is a good chance you have a drain somewhere in your car like many others rather than an alternator. Even if alternator is out, if battery is good, your car should run for at least a 1/2 hour before it dies if battery is still good. You have two problems I believe. My best guess is your battery is toast from several deep discharges, but need to know how the first failure occured. Was it an overnight deal where car ran ok then would not run in morning, or did battery light come on while still driving?

Last edited by 540iman; 02-21-2013 at 05:42 AM.
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:06 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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I don't think the battery is the issue here, because the car starts without issue. Only way to make sure the battery is good is to load test it. One can't tell is the battery is or isin't just by checking the voltage without load. While cranking the battery voltage will drop quite a bit and will not be above 12V before the alternator starts to charge it. It takes several seconds for alternator to start charging due to fact it is being controlled by the DME. One quick test to rule out the the battery as your issue is to turn on your low beams + highbeams + fog lights and let them be on for 10 minutes with the car off. After that try to start the car, if it starts again the battery should be ok. With a bad battery your car won't start again. Places like autozone will load test it for free, or you can load test it yourself. Have you checked the battery cables for tightness and ground cable connection to chasis?
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:15 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Hum...I read car just clicks and dash dims??? I thought he meant car would start after charging? suppose ignition switch could be in play then as well.
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  #18  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:20 AM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Hello 540iman, thanks for replying. My battery is two months old and was drained just this past weekend. It stop working after I went through a car wash. Now Im wondering if the car wash did something to my car other than clean it. But the battery is charged now but I got a message that said Check Brake Light.
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:32 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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So, it was only "apparently* dead once? I agree then that battery should still be ok. Previous poster had good advice as well. You need to measure voltage with car off and car running and report it back. If battery is good and charged, then there is no way the alternator is bad unless I suppose it is presenting a dead short across battery terminals. In that case, fuseable link in positive battery cable would blow and that would be the end of the game until replaced. You'd have no power at all. Beginning to suspect ECU, EWS, or ignition switch. Ignition switch would not fail due to car wash and usually goes over time. You should see increase in voltage at battery when car starts quickly-less than 5 seconds. Mine jumps virtually immediately. How do you plan to get car to Autozone? You really can do all you need at home with a decent digital volt meter. If you can report findings as we guide you, we can eliminate battery and alternator quickly. Then we go to fuel pump and some other things assuming you can live without car for a few days if necessary. I would rent a car before taking it to a stealer.
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:32 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
Hum...I read car just clicks and dash dims??? I thought he meant car would start after charging? suppose ignition switch could be in play then as well.
You didn't read all the replies did you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gootz4u View Post
Hello guys, Thank you for all your replies. I want to check to voltage but my car wont stay on. It will start up but will turn off immidiately. Then my battery light comes on along with the Engine Falesafe prog. Dont you need to have the car running to check the voltage? Or is there another way. I had just replaced my alternator about four years ago but I had an oil leak and it got covered with oil. Not sure if the oil would damage it.
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  #21  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:51 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
You didn't read all the replies did you?
YOU did not read my reply. His first statement was click, click, click. LATER he said car would start and I believe it reasonable to assume he then meant post charging. I read all the posts and you need to stay on topic and not be critical as I stated in my last reply why I came to the conclusion I did. This is why I stop helping folks as it gets personal for absolutely no reason. You help him.
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  #22  
Old 02-21-2013, 09:46 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
YOU did not read my reply. His first statement was click, click, click. LATER he said car would start and I believe it reasonable to assume he then meant post charging. I read all the posts and you need to stay on topic and not be critical as I stated in my last reply why I came to the conclusion I did. This is why I stop helping folks as it gets personal for absolutely no reason. You help him.
He said he would take it autozone to be charged in post #13, but stated that he got the car started in post #10. I assumed he didn't have charger and just jump started it. How did I get personal? If you felt it was personal insult I'm sorry.
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  #23  
Old 02-21-2013, 10:43 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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You stated with seeming confidence that I did not read all the posts and therefore did not understand the problem which is rather bold for a guy with 90 posts and 6 mos. on the forum. Your comments just weren't necessary besides being incorrect. No problem. you got it all covered.
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2013, 11:02 AM
Gootz4u Gootz4u is offline
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Hello not sure what went wrong with this thread but I appreciate everyones input and would gladly take more. Thank you all for all your help. I know it takes a lot more to figure out what the problem may be. As for now my car is still down and I am trying out all the suggestions you awesome people have offered me. It just takes me a little time to reply because Im always on the go. But I got the bimmerfest app now

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Bimmer App
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2013, 11:11 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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[offtopic] Well to me it did seem you didn't read all the posts, which is a quite common phenomenon on forums. I'm registed to 4 different BMW forums this being the last one that I've registered. I joined this forum after having both the trunk locking spring & trunk wiring issues. I joined because I couldn't find as good infomation on those issues anywhere else. [/offtopic]

I'm sure I haven't got it all covered so it's benifial for the OP, if more people look at his issues, because every people will look the issue differently thus covering the issue better. With the current infomation I would start looking at something else than alternator or the battery. As you previously said it could be fuel pump, ignition switch etc.
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