
|
|
||||||
|
E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002) and E85 Z4 (2003-2008)
Coupe and Roadster talk with our gurus here... |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Electrical connector pin question for Ron
In your page on the pins for BMW electrical connectors,
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/ele...tact_pins.html , you show a tool for the pins (88-88-6-611-132). Does this tool help with removing pins from the connectors? Or adding pins to the connectors? Or both? In particular, I am removing/ replacing/ adding male pins to the alarm interface connector on the MZ series. |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
That tool will only help you in removing male and female 2.5mm diameter pins/contacts from their connectors. You really don't need a special tool to add pins/contacts. You just have to unlock the connector to add pins.
__________________
Joe 03 E39- S62B50 w/86K 00 E46/4- M52TUB25 w/156K 99 E36/8- S52B32 w/68K 95 E36/C- M50TUB25 w/228K |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Wait a minute, this was supposed to be Ron's question.
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thank you all. Now that I have my reading glasses on (some of you will understand)....
How is the male/ car harness side of the connector (AMP 1-828879-1 / BMW 1378 136) unlocked to add pins? There are four tabs back by the wire side of the pins, two of these on either side of the connector. Does the connector outer casing need to be pulled away from the inner catches? Or is there some additional step involving the two pieces on the #6/#12 end of the connector? Please excuse the detailed question, but I know these connectors are a pain to replace if you break them. Last edited by phrider; 12-19-2003 at 07:43 AM. Reason: Added photo |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
find an inner contact retainer shell. The inner shell will slide to its unlock position if you pull out the outer shell at the sides. You may have to help the inner shell a little by pushing it at one end as you spread apart the outer one. As you do this, you will see a couple pairs of inner hooks slide past each other. (See below.) The contacts are unlocked once the sloped sides of the little wedges are next to each other. To lock the contacts, you just push the inner shell the other way until you hear a satisfying click. If you practice locking and unlocking the connector a few times, the whole process will become automatic. I hope that helps! Last edited by johnf; 12-19-2003 at 08:20 AM. |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks.
It's obvious once you've done it. Getting the all the wedges past the catches simultaneously (vs one or two at a time) is the challenge. Does BMW have a special crimper for attaching the wires to the pins, or will any old crimper do? |
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I crimp with long nose and solder. |
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
the inner shell with your index fingers. Quote:
die for crimping the BMW/AMP 2.5 mm^2 contacts is unusually deep which becomes a problem should you try to use something else to crimp the contacts for larger wire sizes (e.g. for 1 - 2.5 mm^2 wires). I have gotten pretty good results on contacts for the next smaller wire size (0.5 - 1 mm^2) using a Knipex crimp system tool. As you can see below, however, its standard die does not quite cover the entire crimp area. This is a considerably higher quality tool than what BMW uses - the BMW of hand crimpers as it were, if only BMW would use it - and probably an even more expensive solution assuming you can find it. It will, however, crimp lots of other things if you are willing to buy the dies, which is why I got it. If I were to do it again, I might try my luck with Paladin Tools's 8000 series crimper. (I think www.digikey.com carries it.) Probably one of its dies will do a decent job on the smaller wire sizes. If you are not ready to spend $100-200 on a ratched crimping tool, you can always use an inexpensive hand crimper or a needle-nose pliers, and solder the crimp area afterwards. Once you get your hands on a decent ratcheted crimping tool, however, you will probably wonder why you ever used anything else. |
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
Hmmm. The Paladin looks like it's available for $40 plus about $22 per die. I've wanted the RJ crimper and now I just need a die for the BMW wires.
The BMW wires seem to be equivalent to 22 AWG or 20 AWG. So I'm looking for a 20 AWG crimping die, right? |
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
__________________
Joe 03 E39- S62B50 w/86K 00 E46/4- M52TUB25 w/156K 99 E36/8- S52B32 w/68K 95 E36/C- M50TUB25 w/228K |
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I'll echo what JohnF said before, how did I ever live w/o a ratcheting crimper? http://lib1.store.vip.sc5.yahoo.com/...rialmatrix.pdf
__________________
Joe 03 E39- S62B50 w/86K 00 E46/4- M52TUB25 w/156K 99 E36/8- S52B32 w/68K 95 E36/C- M50TUB25 w/228K |
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ron, John, Joe -- thanks for the help.
|
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I have been wanting to get additional dies for the crimper (open barrel and RG8/RG58 mostly) just never needed them bad enough to get out and order them. Thanks Joe, for posting that pdf!
__________________
![]() Randy Forbes 1957 Austin-Healey 100/6 Wine Red 1961 McCulloch R1 go-kart Screaming Yellow 1999///M Rdstr Cosmos Black 2001///M Rdstr Steel Gray 2011 X5 35i Sport Deep Sea Blue/Cinnamon |
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I think I will ask Knipex if they have a die that will do better. |
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
|
[QUOTE=johnf]What wire sizes are you able to crimp with the 2033 die? The Knipex tool and dies do fine on the two smaller wire size contacts, 0.35 - 0.5 mm^2 and 0.5 - 1.0 mm^2, but fall flat when you try to crimp the BMW/AMP contacts for 1.0 - 2.5 mm^2 wires.
QUOTE] I haven't had the opportunity to use the largest crimping section of the die so I can't comment. However, the 2 smaller ones seem to work pretty well. I sometimes have to use to a needle nose plier to make the crimps look neat though. Do you have a source for those separate (w/o wire) AMP contacts? I've had limited success with BMW.
__________________
Joe 03 E39- S62B50 w/86K 00 E46/4- M52TUB25 w/156K 99 E36/8- S52B32 w/68K 95 E36/C- M50TUB25 w/228K |
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
|
[QUOTE=JoeCinVa
Do you have a source for those separate (w/o wire) AMP contacts? I've had limited success with BMW.[/QUOTE] As of a few weeks ago BMWNA no longer allows preventing the cede to the pin with wire attached. |
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
and see what happens. |
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well, Southpointe BMW in Sarasota doesn't have the 61 13 1 376 191s -- they cede to the new ones with the wires attached (and have only 3 of those new ones at that).
|
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
from my dealer's regional warehouse in Hannover. Hannover actually sent 13 more 191s than I ordered. I am not sure what that means. On a third AMP contact, they sent a substitute with wires, even though there are supposedly some 20 000 unwired contacts in the system. My dealer's parts guy said he would start calling about them after Christmas. We finally received some snow last night but it will probably melt by Christmas eve! |
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#24
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
OFF TOPIC - The stock Hella E36/5 headlights are 207 Euros a side and display the following certifications: E1 (ECE Germany), DOT SSB 384, and SAE HR 93. It is a little strange that U.S. cars didn't get them. |
|
#25
|
||||
|
||||
|
Pleading ignorance... what is the 776 BMW / AMP contact? Is that a new p/n for the old contacts?
|
|
| Bookmarks |
| Forum Navigation | |||||||
|
Today's Posts Search | ||||||
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|