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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 03-13-2013, 02:24 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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thanks for the comments, guys!....I cant wait to see it in the rearview mirror either!


JP
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  #27  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:30 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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So no good project worth its salt would be rewarding without complications!


Found some rust through under the trunk lip that had been bondo'd and was coming back through in nice large rust areas...luckily, I have caught it before it rotted past the double weld seams that go into the trunk and below the bumper....



If I can find a panel for this section, Ill get it...but for now Im planning on honing my welding skills here....(of which I have very few at the moment!)

The trunk floor was bashed in on the battery side and surprisingly hammered back into reasonable shape in about an hour...



There are a couple of rust through spots where the battery was....and a mysteriously missing support rail that used to exist just to the left of the battery tray/trunk floor.


The fun is just beginning....I have started to make some cardboard templates to get a feel of how this thing is going to look, as well as figure out how to build some structure into the front end so that the trailer toungue and support arms will have a solid area to mount to....



Time to flip this thing on its back and remove the differential and drive shafts and get an idea of what I have to build off of....


JP
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  #28  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #29  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:56 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
The trunk floor was bashed in on the battery side and surprisingly hammered back into reasonable shape in about an hour...

a mysteriously missing support rail that used to exist just to the left of the battery tray/trunk floor.
JP
She's been rear-ended pretty hard at some point in life. Rather than replace the brace, they cut it out. My '93 had the same problem, but I fixed the crushed brace and put it back in place.
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  #30  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:50 AM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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M3 rear bumper and fake dual exhaust tips please
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  #31  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:02 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
M3 rear bumper and fake dual exhaust tips please

I KNOW, I KNOW!...Know of anyone who is willing to sponsor the parts?...I do have the cut outs for the dual exhaust and will be putting a dummy set in there!....




JP
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  #32  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:05 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
She's been rear-ended pretty hard at some point in life. Rather than replace the brace, they cut it out. My '93 had the same problem, but I fixed the crushed brace and put it back in place.

Thanks a million for the pictures!...I had envisioned this but now I can really see it....I may have found another parts car to pull stuff off of....I am hoping to get the pieces I need cut out of it, cleaned up and welded into mine.....

Im amazed at how similar the creases and folds are between our two cars....mine looked almost exactly like yours did...er...but a bit worse!.....


JP
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  #33  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:36 PM
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My PO had done a masterful job of concealing the damage. I saw the ripples on the trim below the taillights, but didn't realize how bad it was until I took the OEM bumper off to install the M3 piece, and saw the whole spare tire pocket and battery tray was crushed. I think you've done a better job of pushing things back in place than I did.
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  #34  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:46 PM
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This..........





Is..........





Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!



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  #35  
Old 03-23-2013, 05:43 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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So Ive managed a little more progress...though I realize Ive had to take a few steps backwards to get to the point I can move ahead again...

I decided to take care of the rot in the trunk area first because I need to give that area structure again before flipping the beast on its back to figure out my welding procedure for the trailer tongue/under body supports/frame rails.

The passenger side bumper mount has been seriously compromised with that support brace having been cut out of the car inside the trunk....

Im going to weld a steel pipe in its place, which should be just fine...recreating that octagonal shape in steel will take (me) too long and Im not sure if I can do it anyway with the limited resources I have here for metal fab.....

So heres where Im at: Welds cut out of outer floor pc....




floor under the battery area to be replaced:



view inside the trunk: You can see the mock up of the support brace and below that, the cardboard template for the floor piece.




Ive begun fabricating the cradle which Im mounting to the bumper brackets...this will allow the trailer to be rolled on its back.....


more later!

thanks for looking

JP
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  #36  
Old 03-23-2013, 08:14 PM
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oh man this is neat!
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  #37  
Old 03-23-2013, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
Ive begun fabricating the cradle which Im mounting to the bumper brackets...this will allow the trailer to be rolled on its back.....


more later!

thanks for looking

JP
Wait, so you're designing it so you can pop the trailer onto the rear bumper for vertical storage? That's awesome!

Any errors in this post are purely Swype's fault, not mine.
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:05 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36 Phantom View Post
Wait, so you're designing it so you can pop the trailer onto the rear bumper for vertical storage? That's awesome!

Any errors in this post are purely Swype's fault, not mine.
Uh, I misled you....sorry....The cradle is just so I can flip it upside down to work on it...purely a temporary thing....

though it would be cool to be able to store it up like that with a hinged tongue!




JP
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  #39  
Old 03-27-2013, 07:25 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Update:....budget news: sold a wiper relay-15.00...bought some nice smoked tail lights 60.00....

Figured out that I need a minimum of 7' for the trailer tongue. This length will reach the rear differential support which is very solid. Ill be able to build a bracket or two and bolt or weld the tongue in at that location as well as 4 other points up toward the front of the trailer. (I found that the front has more flex than anticipated....These cars are really well designed) So in tying the front end and back end together using the trailer tongue as a frame member AND adding two other braces to further strengthen the floor pans, I should be good to go!....

More pics to follow soon

JP
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  #40  
Old 03-27-2013, 07:33 PM
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Awesome! I'm excited to see this get put together.
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  #41  
Old 03-27-2013, 07:45 PM
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I like, that's a good thought running the tongue all the way back. How much tongue will be between the coupler and where the E36 body begins? A breakaway tongue would be a great storage feature.

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  #42  
Old 03-28-2013, 04:30 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36 Phantom View Post
I like, that's a good thought running the tongue all the way back. How much tongue will be between the coupler and where the E36 body begins? A breakaway tongue would be a great storage feature.

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You know, thats a great thought...I forgot about those. I had initially figured one of those would be great for the project. My plan now, since you can simply cut the tongue at any time and bolt the break away unit on there, is to build it straightforward for now.

I have a 2x4 set up with a bolt/ weld on hitch assembly mocked up in place and it looks like I will need 3' from the front wall of the trailer for it to A, look right, and B track well...this will also give me good balance/leverage based on how far the hitch is from the wheels.

I have seen other trailers where the hitch is no more than 18" from the wall of the trailer, but I cannot imagine trying to back up with that! This thing should have good form...but it must also function!

thanks for the comments!

JP
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  #43  
Old 04-04-2013, 07:11 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Got a bit more done last night!....(yawn!) My welding skills leave a lot to be desired...but its amazing how much more strength that floor has now with just that smaller piece tacked in place. Its got a ways to go yet, but Im happy so far.



The larger piece where the battery was is just held in place now by a floor jack...but the fit there will be good...Im overlapping this piece like the original was and seam sealing the outside.



the little piece is butt welded so had to be cut to fit right in the hole I made...which was tough to do...Im going to have to get creative with the weld puddle here and there!
(mig)



thanks for watching my progress and I enjoy any comments.

JP
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  #44  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:20 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Okay...so some real progress made yesterday....A friend of mine came over to help out and we got a lot done!......

Looks like Im crating it up for truck freight, but no......



In order to be able to work on the underside items, including the welding, removal of the drive system, and cleaning up the floor pan..I decided to simply turn the thing over...well, at least I thought it would be straightforward...Ended up having to get pretty creative to do it safely. (Found out ya cant just throw the thing around!)



I used my big floor jack and lifted the trailer from the rear diff cradle. It was not enough......so we began propping the wheels up on different items until I could get the ramps under there...then I had to start propping the jack up...(In the end, I had it up on sturdy milk crates with a platform of plywood and 2x4s so the jack could continue to roll!....



Then it was just time to go for it and get it to go that last little bit. That rear diff is HEAVY!.....

You can see in this pic, inside the trunk, I bolted a "permanent" trunk brace. I found some nice 3/16 tubing that I flattened on one end, shaped, and bolted in place up by the fender well. it fits tight against the bumper shock mount and stiffens the whole right side up nicely!



And the piece from underneath that will be welded in place for the battery tray area...




The rear diff is out along with the drive shafts now...also took out the brake system, ect to shed as much weight as I can.

Now, we talked about the doors yesterday...and I may be thinking about keeping them functional. what do you guys think about that?

Ill weld over the door handle area and make some latch releases for inside the trailer. Not sure if I want the doors to show or not.....I was originally thinking of a nice smooth sided trailer, but the functionality of having working doors is appealing!

thanks for looking and any feedback is of course welcome!

JP
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  #45  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:25 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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A bit more done.....

without the rear diff and driveshafts:
Question: (I think I know the answer....which lower control arm is the bent one?)


Welding progress: needed to cut out another couple of rotted sections that grinding revealed....



Battery tray piece prepped a bit:



Started cleaning up the suspension pieces...got some paint on the (trailing?) arm...looks good...Going to paint the inside of the drive shaft spline housing with rust preventative paint and undercoating...should hold it a while....


more later...

thanks for looking

JP
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  #46  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #47  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:33 AM
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B_Rad_M3 B_Rad_M3 is offline
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Awesome!
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  #48  
Old 04-08-2013, 04:05 PM
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am thinking that you would want to keep an outer joint in the hub bolted in while towing it. as much of a pain in the rear these are to remove when they need to be replaced, i could see this thing coming apart rather easily simply because you would not want it to....


or was that rust-proofing just until you are able to get an outer joint back in there??




df
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  #49  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:25 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
am thinking that you would want to keep an outer joint in the hub bolted in while towing it. as much of a pain in the rear these are to remove when they need to be replaced, i could see this thing coming apart rather easily simply because you would not want it to....


or was that rust-proofing just until you are able to get an outer joint back in there??




df
Yes, the splined threaded outer CV joint housing will stay...this holds the beariing in place...you are quite right!

I need a new retaining nut for each side as they were pretty rusted on there and I had to mangle them a bit to get them off....Im more comfortable with new ones anyway!

JP
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  #50  
Old 04-09-2013, 04:59 AM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Awesome progress your trailer has nicer shocks then my car right now.
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