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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 04-11-2013, 02:43 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Some more progress at lunch today!....

The lower control arm on the drivers side had a pretty bad bend in it on the front side. I ended up taking the whole thing out and clamping it in my vice. I added some heat and kept adding pressure on the vice until the part was straight again...hey, it was worth a shot and it worked!



I got the driveshafts out but it was not pretty. I used a nice combination of correct procedure and all out cutting, bashing and wrenching.....lol...in the end, the correct procedure wins out every time! Here is the back of the outer drive shaft housing...which used to contain the CV joint, ball bearings and was covered by the CV boot.



Got the sway bar out, too...one of the links was broken, so Im glad I took the whole thing out...here are the center bushing brackets with a coat of copper metallic paint....eventually they will be body color "barrique red"



Sway bar with its first coat of oxide primer....its in rough shape...but sound.



welding progress:

One or two blow through spots...the metal gets really thin wherever it had rusted, or split....I turned the welder down a bit more and found I had just a bit more time to form the weld spot.....



you can just make out the shape of the metal patch.....I have been wanting to try matching a profile like this one....there was an indented ridge in the trunk floor that came back through this spot so I shaped the metal to match....it worked well....

welding skills getting better, but its still very slow going....such a noob!

thanks for checking in!

JP
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  #52  
Old 04-11-2013, 02:55 PM
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petriej petriej is offline
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You are the man. At first I thought you were going to take the sway bar out. Then I thought you wouldn't need it in a trailer. Now I think it will be extra awesome if you keep it. It will probably make the trailer much more stable in turns.
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  #53  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:06 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by petriej View Post
You are the man. At first I thought you were going to take the sway bar out. Then I thought you wouldn't need it in a trailer. Now I think it will be extra awesome if you keep it. It will probably make the trailer much more stable in turns.
Yeah, on track days Ill get much better times if I leave it in!!!!!

seriously......some trailers tend to wig wag....though this is probably more a tongue length/tongue weight issue. It cannot hurt to keep the suspension more stable over uneven pavement, lane changes and in turns too......I dont need that thing pulling me around at all!


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  #54  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:10 PM
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  #55  
Old 04-12-2013, 05:44 AM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Awesome progress keeping the sways is a great idea. Have you checked at all how the tounge weight will be though?
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  #56  
Old 04-12-2013, 08:12 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
Awesome progress keeping the sways is a great idea. Have you checked at all how the tounge weight will be though?
Yes, Ive done some research in that department....If I use an 8' section of box steel for the tongue, I can use it as a frame member that runs from the rear diff cradle out past the front of the trailer and still have 4' of potential tongue length extending out from the trailer.

I can mount the tongue at the diff cradle, then in 2 more places on the floor and lastly at the front lip of the trailer. This will make for a very stable and Im assuming smooth pulling trailer...(that is as long as I mount the tongue straight!!)

Tongue weight can be adjusted by how I load it....and ideal tongue weight is based on total trailer weight (gross weight). Since its a small trailer that even without a tongue can be pulled around quite easily by hand, Im thinking that it will be a non issue with regard to the tongue weight capacity of the car. (Im sure I can load the trailer properly as long as I have the old brain turned on!)

To increase the strength of the tongue even more from side to side, Im attaching additional frame supports that run from the corners of the trailer to the tongue in front. (common)

Thanks for the question....it keeps me thinking about this and reaffirming some thoughts, and disproving others!.......


JP
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  #57  
Old 04-12-2013, 08:26 AM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Sounds like a good idea to me. The fact that the thing has legitimate shocks/springs should be more then sufficent to maintain a smooth ride. Only other thing I would question is the springs and their rates. I don't know what's in there now but if they're to stiff the suckers gonna just catch air over bumps and create a whole lot of torque on the pulling vehicle.
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  #58  
Old 04-12-2013, 09:34 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Yes, good thoughts....I think it will be okay.....Im pretty sure its just got stock springs.....If I went with a utility trailer frame, and plopped the Bimmer body over it.....I would have an even stiffer ride and no shocks.


thanks for the thoughts!

JP
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  #59  
Old 04-13-2013, 08:39 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaswrath View Post
What are you transporting In this?
mountain bike, camping gear, couple of suitcases...its really just as much for show as it is for go!....

thanks for the comments, guys!....

heres some more progress from this afternoon:

Finally got the trailer flipped on its back....



I have found out that the top of the trailer tongue will be the right height for the hitch if I mount it to the diff cradle in back, and from brackets I make in the floor up front.....



Its really kinda bizarre having it on its back like this.....looks like a capsized turtle or something!

The welding is going better and better.....Im finally just starting to get the hang of it....long ways to go yet, but I managed to get the first set of panels nearly finished up...



I know it doesnt look like much yet....but I only have three blow throughs to deal with now, and the rest is really solid now.....

below I used a string tied to the wheels to determine approximate floor height for the trailer tongue.....Ill cross reference this with the specs from the owners manual if possible.....



thanks for looking!

JP
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  #60  
Old 04-15-2013, 07:48 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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So I learned how to weld this afternoon, apparently!

Maybe not completely "learned", but I put a few things together that I had been struggling with and started to run some nice welds...Got the setting just right, wire speed good....thick and thin metal, much less of a problem.

Im am pretty stoked!

heres the larger panel that needed to be welded in place where the battery was. It took a lot of dry fitting and shaping, but I just kept at it until I liked the way it looked.




another angle:
the hole towards the top of the panel is a drain hole



Got the front edge marked with a straight line and began cutting. I found some angle iron that will be great for that spot. It really needs tying together for strength...its pretty flimsy up there...



Just to keep me honest, my buddy gave me a magnetic calendar...that way I can count down the days till we head out of Dodge for the Summer and the trailer has to be done!.......



Getting that steel is next.....

JP
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  #61  
Old 04-16-2013, 12:37 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Jacking point massacre......pretty common, really....proof here that its just one layer of sheet metal!...dont miss the jacking point, guys!..there is a nice beefy assembly bolted inside the quarter that runs all the way up to the floor and ties in with the side jacking point. This is where that larger hole is...and its triple wall steel...nice!



Got the pieces cut for the patch....this is getting fun! I found that plug welding is efficient, quick and sturdy...Ill do a combination like the battery tray pc....solid welds all the way around, plugs along the old sheet metal. I treated the inside of the rocker as best I could...it was a little rusty in there...but not too bad.....

front end cut straight, back from where I had it about 6".....I think the front will look better this way....Ill follow the curvature of the pillar if I can...should make for an interesting shape...I may be copying the front tail gate idea if I have time.....light weight is the goal.....so I may be fabricating it myself from lightweight materials...aluminum and aluminum sheet...not sure yet...




Hopefully more after work!

JP
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  #62  
Old 04-16-2013, 06:05 PM
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Come weld for me . Looks like your getting pretty good .......I'm loving the information on the jack point I almost missed this afternoon haha. Keep an eye on that calendar and get her right side up
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  #63  
Old 04-16-2013, 10:23 PM
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drive by72 drive by72 is offline
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This thing is way cool. Although, I have a few questions for you.

It appears you're going to weld your tongue piece straight to the body? what thickness are you planning on using here? Using 2x4 metal stock with .188 wall seems to be an appropriate fit. Sounds like you're a new welder as well, what process are you using? Welding thick to thin is tricky, you have to be able to hold enough of your puddle on the base (thick side) and be able to drag it to your thin piece and hold it long enough, without burning through. You also have to ensure you do not shove too much wire through, more wire = more cooling of the weld. And the cardinal rule: welding is about penetration, not looks. Yes its nice to weld a roll of dimes, but you have to make sure the weld will hold.

Looks like that piece of tongue is sitting awfully low, keep that in mind for when the load is put on the trailer. The suspension is not designed for this purpose, and while it will ride similar to a torsion axle, it will not handle nearly the same load. If what I am seeing is correct, I would try to bring the tongue higher up, and create some type of "wings" that expand off the tongue piece. This will help distribute the load and keep structural integrity. If this were my project, I would stick my tongue piece into the driveshaft tunnel, and create the supports outward from there. Deck it flat, and the load will sit on top/in front of the axle, which is ideal for handling, unless you're carrying heavy heavy loads (such as, a piece of construction equipment)

I'm excited to see this, i've always wanted to make one myself
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  #64  
Old 04-17-2013, 04:30 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Got the jacking point panel installed last night....ended up adding 2 layers right next to the jacking point for more strength...Im happy with the results.....but started blowing through the side of the rocker where there was some hidden rust!...arrgghh..gonna have to cut that section out and replace the steel as my "filling" techniqe leaves a lot to be desired. its just too messy behind the weld and that just leads to rust....quickly!





Heres the blow through area...its really cleaner, easier and uses less weld material to weld a new piece in...just more time consuming now....



I seem to be chasing way more rust around this thing than I had anticipated....Gotta get to the front end and trailer tongue!

thanks for looking

JP
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  #65  
Old 04-17-2013, 05:43 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drive by72 View Post
This thing is way cool. Although, I have a few questions for you.

It appears you're going to weld your tongue piece straight to the body? what thickness are you planning on using here? Using 2x4 metal stock with .188 wall seems to be an appropriate fit. Sounds like you're a new welder as well, what process are you using? Welding thick to thin is tricky, you have to be able to hold enough of your puddle on the base (thick side) and be able to drag it to your thin piece and hold it long enough, without burning through. You also have to ensure you do not shove too much wire through, more wire = more cooling of the weld. And the cardinal rule: welding is about penetration, not looks. Yes its nice to weld a roll of dimes, but you have to make sure the weld will hold.

Looks like that piece of tongue is sitting awfully low, keep that in mind for when the load is put on the trailer. The suspension is not designed for this purpose, and while it will ride similar to a torsion axle, it will not handle nearly the same load. If what I am seeing is correct, I would try to bring the tongue higher up, and create some type of "wings" that expand off the tongue piece. This will help distribute the load and keep structural integrity. If this were my project, I would stick my tongue piece into the driveshaft tunnel, and create the supports outward from there. Deck it flat, and the load will sit on top/in front of the axle, which is ideal for handling, unless you're carrying heavy heavy loads (such as, a piece of construction equipment)

I'm excited to see this, i've always wanted to make one myself
Thank you very much for the practical advice Driveby...I would much rather work out the placement of the tongue NOW...so your advice is much appreciated.

For the tongue, I was given advice by a neighbor who is a welder and mechanic by trade to use a stout piece of 2x3 by 3/16 for the tongue and yes, I will be adding support pcs that go out to the rockers and tie in to the leading edge of the trailer. This main piece will also be bolted/welded to brackets that run across the tunnel area in 2 more places under the floor.
(Now, if I raise the tongue and put it into the diff cradle, I can mount it there, then I can shape the 2 passenger floor area brackets to fit ...no problem, right?)

Putting the tongue higher up into the trailer floor would locate it inside the diff cradle...this would require some thought at the hitch, though...with the hitch I have right now, the bottom of the hitch ball is at 12" off the ground. can I use a different offset on the tow ball mount? I think I can...this would make up for any difference in height from the standard ball mount I have now allowing me to place the trailer tongue higher......

I will not be doing the heavier welding....my neighbor will be handling that duty...but I plan to bolt everything together first anyway...so I will have safety built in.....Im a little paranoid in that regard....probably because I have never welded heavy materials together before...

with regard to welding...I am getting better, but still have a ways to go with weld penetration...At first, the welds really just sat on top and would grind off quite often....then as I adjusted the settings, and began to work on my technique...things got better.

Thanks for the tips on thin/thick metal issues. I know these things in theory...but putting them into practice takes...well, practice!

I will be taking a hard look at your suggestions....I did want the trailer tongue higher...but had not thought it through enough...now I think I have some better direction...

thanks again.


JP

Last edited by 07lilredwagon; 04-17-2013 at 05:50 AM. Reason: clarity
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  #66  
Old 04-19-2013, 09:36 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Okay...what color to paint items like this?......Im thinking that nice dark silver or grey metallic that BMW has....(whats that called again?)



And, some more progress on the welding....This spot is opposite the battery box area...not sure why it rusted...though I did find a soft washer under the area directly above the threaded rod...Im assuming it was some sort of rubber seal as well....

The welds look a bit proud of the surrounding material, but I added a "second coat" here and there as I found some thin spots to deal with.



Rocker panel is ready for some filler, though I just found out that I need more!...rats...



working my way to the front...I patched some areas from where I had cut the tunnel out...this made that bulkhead flex a bit...so I tightened things up with a few welds....




Finally, this is the alignment adjuster nut with cam washer on the control arm that was bent.....now the wheel can be aligned properly....I put the wheel on just to see if it looks good...and its pretty straight...though admittedly, upside down, its really hard to see how it will look when its back on its feet!



thanks for looking!

JP
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  #67  
Old 04-21-2013, 07:40 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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So I was able to put a little time in today...

got the tunnel piece welded in place...really firms things up!



Then I cut and shaped and cut and shaped the rocker panels end pieces and got one welded in....







and gave the jacking point area a coat of primer before I add some filler.....



I clamped the angle iron back in place and the front end is really starting to get some structure back in it...Now Im planning the front panel and trailer tongue....

thanks for looking...

JP
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  #68  
Old 04-21-2013, 11:50 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
Okay...what color to paint items like this?......Im thinking that nice dark silver or grey metallic that BMW has....(whats that called again?)
I would say black. That is the color I painted my exhaust and brake calipers. I think black looks really nice under the car. It blends in well while making the parts look clean. I have seen other people use more flashy colors under the car and it always looks awful. There is this raised pickup truck that I pass on my way to school occasionally with neon green differentials and other parts under it. It looks hideous the green draws your eyes to the rusty area around it. Silver or gray obviously would not be as bad as neon green, but I still think black is the best color.
Anyway, I wish you luck in your fight against the rust.
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  #69  
Old 04-22-2013, 05:02 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by southpark11235 View Post
I would say black. That is the color I painted my exhaust and brake calipers. I think black looks really nice under the car. It blends in well while making the parts look clean. I have seen other people use more flashy colors under the car and it always looks awful. There is this raised pickup truck that I pass on my way to school occasionally with neon green differentials and other parts under it. It looks hideous the green draws your eyes to the rusty area around it. Silver or gray obviously would not be as bad as neon green, but I still think black is the best color.
Anyway, I wish you luck in your fight against the rust.
thanks for the opinion on this ....I was thinking gloss black, or that dark silver...almost like gunmetal metallic...

JP
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  #70  
Old 04-22-2013, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
thanks for the opinion on this ....I was thinking gloss black, or that dark silver...almost like gunmetal metallic...

JP
Silver Black gets dirty wayy to fast.

Awesome looking progress with the tunnel looks super clean.
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  #71  
Old 04-22-2013, 07:01 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
Silver Black gets dirty wayy to fast.

Awesome looking progress with the tunnel looks super clean.
thanks!....Im leaning more towards the gunmetal silver...


JP
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  #72  
Old 04-22-2013, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
Silver Black gets dirty wayy to fast.

Awesome looking progress with the tunnel looks super clean.
Every color gets dirty to fast under the car.
Tonight or tomorrow I will take a picture of my exhaust, so you can see how black looks under the car.
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  #73  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:48 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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some good lunchtime progress....

I was able to get both endplates on and welded in....and decided that a piece of angle iron is what I need to firm up the front edge of the floor...This will also give me a nice lip for the front panel...whatever that may be!



I wanted to match the angle of the bottom of the rocker panel so cut the angle iron to fit.....

I can finally show off some of my welds!...woohoo!....Going from thick to thinner metal, I built up the welds on the thin stuff, melted into the thick stuff well, and then ran one more set of welds on top to make them more consistent and look better...



Heres the other side:



Ive still got a little cleaning up to do....but its really coming along.


Im picking up the steel for the tongue this afternoon!


JP
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  #74  
Old 04-23-2013, 11:24 AM
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What kinda welder do you have?

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  #75  
Old 04-23-2013, 01:44 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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What kinda welder do you have?

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Millermatic...got it used...really wanted a Miller as they have nice fine adjustments....

JP
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