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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 04-23-2013, 05:52 PM
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the darker grey is artkis grau, which is the color of my sedan. it's more 'gunmetal' than the arkits silber is.

could you post up more pics of your mounting point(s) if you have them?? i have to tackle this on cadence sometime....

if not, no biggie. ii was hoping to get an idea, though, as i will most likely be making my parts car 'vanish' pretty soon....




df
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  #77  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:21 PM
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As promised, picture of my exhaust.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #78  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:26 PM
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There's no way that's an upstate NY underbody...
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  #79  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by southpark11235 View Post
As promised, picture of my exhaust.
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Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
There's no way that's an upstate NY underbody...
Wrong thread boys
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  #80  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:36 PM
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There's no way that's an upstate NY underbody...
It is not. “A” is where I bought the car and “B” is where I live.



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Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
Wrong thread boys
The OP was asking what color to paint things under his car and I was showing what black looks like under there.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #81  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:40 PM
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Oops, I guess Saugerties wasn't as north as I thought.
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  #82  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:54 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is online now
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Oops, I guess Saugerties wasn't as north as I thought.
Don’t worry about it, that picture was kind of misleading. The car is not nearly as rust free at the picture would suggest, but thanks for the compliment anyways.

After I took a wire brush to the rust on the fender you could see through it.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #83  
Old 04-24-2013, 05:25 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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I hate rust! lol

Yeah, I think gunmetal silver is the way to go....subtle, but nice....

thanks, guys...

more progress:

with the steel in place, I can actually see a trailer!



this 3/16 stuff is stout!



a little filler:



Rear mounting point...I got an 8' piece of steel to give me some options when finalizing the tongue length...right now its at 44" from the front wall...this gives me plenty of turning room, in fact, the corner of the car and trailer will never come in contact when backing up......



I have to figure out just how to mount the tongue...Ill mess around with the front brackets today and get my centerline marked out.....(Im going from the center of each hub for my measurement....but if the alignment is off a lot because of that bent control arm that I straightened out.....Im going to double check things from the jacking points, diff cradle bolts, ect)

thanks for looking!

JP
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  #84  
Old 04-24-2013, 05:32 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
the darker grey is artkis grau, which is the color of my sedan. it's more 'gunmetal' than the arkits silber is.

could you post up more pics of your mounting point(s) if you have them?? i have to tackle this on cadence sometime.... if not, no biggie. ii was hoping to get an idea, though, as i will most likely be making my parts car 'vanish' pretty soon....df
if you mean for the sway bar...easiest way to get it out is to unbolt the two center mounts, then from up on top of the suspension arm, there is one bolt on each side holding the links in place.

you could try to unbolt the links from inside the arms like I did, or do it the easy way and smarter way by undoing the bolts on top of those arms!!!!!



JP
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  #85  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:10 PM
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no, i meant the jacking points....sorry....one of mine has moved up a bit due to rust....just sorta wondering exactly what is behind these rocker panels. not a big issue, though, as i have a parts car i can hack up to salvage bits and pieces if needed. just really not very excited to do it, though....


btw, looking great!! are you going to keep the trunk finctional and add a lift top to the rear passenger quarters, or modify the decklid to fit all the way across?? i forgot if you stated how you were going to do this....



df
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  #86  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:44 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
no, i meant the jacking points....sorry....one of mine has moved up a bit due to rust....just sorta wondering exactly what is behind these rocker panels. not a big issue, though, as i have a parts car i can hack up to salvage bits and pieces if needed. just really not very excited to do it, though....


btw, looking great!! are you going to keep the trunk finctional and add a lift top to the rear passenger quarters, or modify the decklid to fit all the way across?? i forgot if you stated how you were going to do this....df
I dont have many pics of the inside of the rockers....but there is an assembly spot welded inside the rocker that comprises the lower and side jacking point ....it sounds like you need to cut the rocker just in front of the jacking point and expose the whole thing...then take care of the rust and weld in your replacement parts...then sew up the rocker again....its doable...but, as you say...a big job.

Is it possible to just replace that lower piece like I did?....or is the rust up and into the rocker and jacking point?


good luck with it, DF......let me know if you need any advice along the way....


JP
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  #87  
Old 04-25-2013, 04:05 AM
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the jacking point has been moved up in its orbit, if you will....i will try to get pics later to better illustrate, but insteadof the hole being centered in the location, it's almost at the very top.

i figure'd the rocker will be needing to be replaced due to corrosion, and probably a few other areas as well....just not looking forward to doing it..




df
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  #88  
Old 04-25-2013, 04:33 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
the jacking point has been moved up in its orbit, if you will....i will try to get pics later to better illustrate, but insteadof the hole being centered in the location, it's almost at the very top.

i figure'd the rocker will be needing to be replaced due to corrosion, and probably a few other areas as well....just not looking forward to doing it..df
I understand completely!

It sounds like the rockers are compromised...yes...they are structural, and cutting them out will affect the alignment of the doors, unit body, ect....plan accordingly with supports under the car in key places so the floors do not flex...

If youre only cutting and patching, then its not so bad.....I spoke to a body shop friend of mine and he says that replacing entire rocker panel assemblies is common today...inner and outer with everything built in is commonplace.....Of course they have the facility to make this happen!....


JP
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  #89  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:05 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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So a little cost update:

Spent so far: 315.00

Just bought:

58.00 tail lights
70.00 Steel trailer tongue material (8' 2x3x3/16) and 2 36" 2x3x1/8)
80.00 trailer accessories. (tongue jack, foot pad, rear stabilizer, safety cables)
50.00 undercoating, suspension paint, primer

258.00 more plus the original 315.00 = 573.00.

subtract the 15.00 I got for the relay I sold and total expenditures are at 558.00 so far.




JP
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  #90  
Old 04-28-2013, 07:16 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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progress lately looks like not much is going on...but Im leveling the trailer front to back, left to right and positioning the trailer tongue. I am trying to find dead center on this car which is not all that easy...I get to 1/8" and then Im just not sure....side to side is very close up front. Its in the diff cradle that Im finding it tough to find good measuring points.

Im hoping that 1/16" on either side will not affect the tracking of the trailer....and yeah, I measured from the tip of the trailer tongue to the hub opening's leading edge, and Im within 1/8" there too....

anyway...heres a picture or two:



Here is the back of the tunnel welded closed. This really firmed things up too.



and a bit more done on the rocker panel:



and for those of you doing some rust repair or fixing undercoating...I found this new product by rustoleum....this stuff is tough. so far I really like it and will probably end up doing the whole bottom of the trailer.



Im welding in some triangular gussets to the front angle iron to help support the trailer tongue...this should be done soon....


I ran out of welding gas and wire at the same time...I guess its time for more supplies!


JP
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  #91  
Old 04-30-2013, 07:20 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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I was able to figure out a pretty big design and structural feature on the front of the trailer yesterday evening. I placed a piece of steel at the top of the rocker boxes (when its rightside up!) and moved it up and down until I liked the placement. This works for both for the lower front panel overall and it allows me the option to build a hinged or fixed panel to the curved part of the "B pillar".



Heres a vertical brace I cut and shaped to fit on either side of the tongue that also ties together the bottom of the trailer and the new piece of steel.....Welds on 1/8 steel are getting better.....




and the latest from the bondo can....



more later.....the countdown continues!

JP
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  #92  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:06 AM
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Re: E36 trailer project

Looking more and more like a trailer!

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  #93  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:48 PM
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drive by72 drive by72 is offline
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Looking good!

I see you went ahead and used 3/16 mounted in the driveshaft tunnel. Chad approves. Millermatic? Consider me jealous!

Now, I have come up with a schematic. More food for thought here.

This is what you have


Thick red is axle center, thin is the diameter of the wheel. Black is your tongue, till about the hick red line.

This is what I propose to you



Pink represents recessed areas on the top.
Blue is the axle.
Orange represents supports I propose adding.
Thick black is a piece of 1/4" angle iron I suggest adding as well.

Your ultimate goal should be to level blue and pink, otherwise you will have one hell of a time securing any load that does not fit in the recessed area. Now, because there will be a sizeable gap between your deck, you can easily add crossmembers that will be out of sight and give you certain piece of mind.

Unless you plan on utilizing the spare tire well, I would cut it and put a piece of .188 metal as a crossmember between the bumper supports, as they are a piece of structure and can take load. Triangular gussets on each joint made of 1/4" plate of course.

Adding the 1/4" angle iron to the front would be wise, as that section is not designed to have any structural load, so you need to create strength there. Going to the outer section of the subframe with this should be strong enough, double gusset on the bottom recommended.

Triangular supports across the recessed area to an added crossmember in the back. Ensure the added crossmember is welded to the side of the tongue. Does not go through the tongue, it would be more/less a T. Triangular .188 gusset, about 6" on the between AB



Notes about corssmember: I would run 4" beads on all accessible sides every 6-12". Stitch your weld to the body, then stitch it back on the .188. Will make for some VERY strong welds. You should be using alot of amperage with moderate wire speed (example: 8 heat and 5-6 speed), shielding gas at C25 mixture around 15psi line pressure.

Throw some supports on the outside of the tongue (seen in orange) to add extra resistance to flexing from road conditions, and to add extra strength to your angle iron. This would look cool if you put diamond plate over the top of the support, as a step. Might be a good place to add clearance lights, federal law says you need one forward and one rearward of the axle on each side. Amber front, red in rear.
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  #94  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:00 PM
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Double plate gusset I refer to.



Big box is the car sheet metal. Red is your .250 angle iron. Pink is a 4" wide by length of crossmember gusset. Gap is roughly 1/4"-1/2". Gap is present to weld the angle iron and gusset to the body. By the time you are done, almost the entire thing will be filled with weld between the two, I would stitch the welds together so it is one large, strong piece. Black box on top is the "double" part. Give or take 3-4" wide by width of crossmember. This will be welded to both the original angle iron, and the second piece that is welded to the body now. Lots of strength to be had here, something I did alot when I reconstructed my trailer frame.
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  #95  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:02 PM
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Also, as difficult as it is to do over the internet, I would like to help you improve your welding technique. Do you have any spare metal laying around thats .188 or thicker? If you would, make a 90* joint weld and take a picture of the weld and the bottom of the plate, along with the opposite side of the weld. Dont weld the edge, weld it to be a T. Please and thank you
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Please, call me Chadley

1997 328iS... HR coilovers, Brembo F40 calipers, camber plates, it needs a CUMMINS!!

1990-somethin Chevy K3500... Cummins, cab swap, 5 speed, and lots of motor work. 20 MPG, 40 PSI, 507 ft/lbs torque
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  #96  
Old 05-01-2013, 04:35 AM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Originally Posted by drive by72 View Post
Also, as difficult as it is to do over the internet, I would like to help you improve your welding technique. Do you have any spare metal laying around thats .188 or thicker? If you would, make a 90* joint weld and take a picture of the weld and the bottom of the plate, along with the opposite side of the weld. Dont weld the edge, weld it to be a T. Please and thank you
PM'd you...thanks for the feedback!....digesting, digesting, digesting.....


JP
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  #97  
Old 05-01-2013, 06:39 AM
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drive by72 drive by72 is offline
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Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
PM'd you...thanks for the feedback!....digesting, digesting, digesting.....


JP
Got it! Always glad to help another member out

Trust me, you dont want to be stuck on the side of a road with a broken trailer
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1997 328iS... HR coilovers, Brembo F40 calipers, camber plates, it needs a CUMMINS!!

1990-somethin Chevy K3500... Cummins, cab swap, 5 speed, and lots of motor work. 20 MPG, 40 PSI, 507 ft/lbs torque
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  #98  
Old 05-01-2013, 07:31 PM
07lilredwagon 07lilredwagon is offline
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Great stuff, Chad...thanks!....and thanks too for the diagrams.....

I was talking about the floor with a buddy of mine today, and I think I will be adding angle iron around the inside edges of the trailer to make a shelf for the flooring to sit on...I will be making the front section in front of the seat hump hinged so I have a small storage area under the floor there, but the floor will be level all the way back to the pass through, which I will be opening up as soon as I get this thing turned back over.

I will be gusseting the tongue and front supports with your triangular shaped supports, and in fact have two in place already....

I do plan on, and have purchased already, two tongue supports that will run from just inside the rocker boxes on the leading edge of the trailer out to the tongue...these will be .125 x 2x3 steel that are 36" long and will extend into the floor of the trailer for extra strength.

I like the crossbrace for the trunk/bumper support rails. I think Ill make mine look like a strut brace for an engine compartment!....cool, right?

the tongue will be attached along its length in two places besides the diff cradle. just aft of the leading edge (transmission mount holes) and just at the edge of the floor before it steps up to the seat bottom area where the gas tank used to go.
Ill be using 1/4" x 2.5" bracing, drilled for bolts AND welded in place....it wont come loose!...the rear diff cradle will get the same treatment...welded AND bolted.

The only difference in our approaches is that I have to keep weight to a minimum...and am hoping to enhance the unit body's design by adding bracing and gussets in key places. It is really firming up now on that leading edge and by the time Im done, it will be good and strong. that tongue is stout and coupled with the unit body strength...when all of this is tied together, it will become very strong....

Remember, Im not loading this trailer up with much more than camping gear and a mountain bike...(sure, he says that now!)


Your ideas are great..I will be using most of them!.....


JP
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  #99  
Old 05-01-2013, 08:00 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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love this thread!!
love the forum, too.

can't wait to see this thing done. think it'll be ready for the road to bimmerfest east??

i say this should be a collage submission for the calendar!!


too cool for sure.




df
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  #100  
Old 05-01-2013, 08:16 PM
sonofmx sonofmx is offline
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That is real nice.. It's gonna be cool seen one by my area.. Idk if they made it too or what but i like it lol.. Ill post a pic if i see it again...

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