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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 03-29-2013, 12:58 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racooper3 View Post
If I were representing BMW, I would be ashamed of these pictures. I know they are smarter and can do much better on this design. Likely a contractor using inferior seal material that should be canned. Thanks for all the great pictures. The job isn't that complicated, just need to take time and have parts ready to go when you do take the plunge.

P.S. my wife would kill me if I put my Intake manifold on the washer like that. After a week of no washing we usually have 6 loads of laundry to do.
I work in automotive industry (supplier to pretty much every OEM out there), and it could have been BMW or the supplier..no way to tell. Sometimes the supplier is design responsible, sometimes they just make what BMW designs.

In their defense, the seal is molded on to the metal pipe so it's one piece. The only way to get the pipe out is to break the bond between the seal and pipe, so that makes the seal look even worse than it is. It's still a horrible design though.

haha, it's on the dryer and I've been doing laundry around it.. although the whole room stinks now. (luckily I live alone)
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  #52  
Old 03-29-2013, 01:25 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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I had some gritty dirty stuff fall down into the intake runners when I was removing the intake that I haven't been successful at getting out.

Any ideas? Or does it even matter? I've tried compressed air and tried the vacuum cleaner with a small tip on it and a Q tip with some long pliers. I got a lot of it, but there's still some stuff (almost looks like sand) stuck around the outside perimeter of the valve, right where it meets the valve seat. The angle right there is pretty tight, so I'm not sure anything besides compressed air would even have a chance (and that hasn't worked so far..)

I'm pretty sure it'd be fine and just go on through the engine after it's started, but really don't want to risk screwing up the valve seats.

Any ideas??
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  #53  
Old 03-29-2013, 04:21 PM
545iMike 545iMike is offline
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Hey schpenxel, I've been following a couple of your threads for some while and wanted to thank you for taking the time to post pictures / DIY's. Makes me more confident on working on my 545. Just wanted to point something out before you decide to put your intake mani back on. I'm currently getting some disa codes on my car. 2820 CDKDISA - Failure DISA, 2821 CDKDISAT - DISA temp. warn level engine protection model. I found this thread in the 7 section. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=7201154 (He listed the codes wrong, numbers not in right order but same fault. Disa fault, Disa temp) Anyways the thread says that the internal gears in the manifold get gummed up causing the disa to over heat. The cure apparently is to separate the manifold and clean it all out. From the pictures you posted of your injectors I can see this being legitimate. I plan on doing it to my car but haven't had the time due to my car being my daily. If you decide to do this please post some pictures.
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  #54  
Old 03-29-2013, 05:23 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 545iMike View Post
Hey schpenxel, I've been following a couple of your threads for some while and wanted to thank you for taking the time to post pictures / DIY's. Makes me more confident on working on my 545. Just wanted to point something out before you decide to put your intake mani back on. I'm currently getting some disa codes on my car. 2820 CDKDISA - Failure DISA, 2821 CDKDISAT - DISA temp. warn level engine protection model. I found this thread in the 7 section. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=7201154 (He listed the codes wrong, numbers not in right order but same fault. Disa fault, Disa temp) Anyways the thread says that the internal gears in the manifold get gummed up causing the disa to over heat. The cure apparently is to separate the manifold and clean it all out. From the pictures you posted of your injectors I can see this being legitimate. I plan on doing it to my car but haven't had the time due to my car being my daily. If you decide to do this please post some pictures.
I did a little reading on the variable intake one time.. pretty cool (in theory). I haven't had any trouble with mine so I doubt I'll pull the intake apart. Are there gaskets inside it or just sealant? When I was cleaning the runners I noticed some sealant material stuck in there, so I cleaned that out a little in the worst spots.

I have read that at least the gears on the adjuster are metal for this car (I think there was an earlier 6 cylinder engine with a plastic version that did something similar..?) so they don't fail all that often

I have noticed on mine that if I drive the crap out of it for a few minutes, it's SO much more responsive and strong feeling. I'm not sure if that's indicative of something like this not working right, or just a computer and/or mental thing? I need to change my intermediate levers on the valvetronics system also, and I have read a few people say their cars feel a LOT stronger after those are changed (am I the only one crazy enough to do them myself?? lol)
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  #55  
Old 03-29-2013, 06:33 PM
545iMike 545iMike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
I did a little reading on the variable intake one time.. pretty cool (in theory). I haven't had any trouble with mine so I doubt I'll pull the intake apart. Are there gaskets inside it or just sealant? When I was cleaning the runners I noticed some sealant material stuck in there, so I cleaned that out a little in the worst spots.

I have read that at least the gears on the adjuster are metal for this car (I think there was an earlier 6 cylinder engine with a plastic version that did something similar..?) so they don't fail all that often

I have noticed on mine that if I drive the crap out of it for a few minutes, it's SO much more responsive and strong feeling. I'm not sure if that's indicative of something like this not working right, or just a computer and/or mental thing? I need to change my intermediate levers on the valvetronics system also, and I have read a few people say their cars feel a LOT stronger after those are changed (am I the only one crazy enough to do them myself?? lol)
I assume its probably a sealant. I've also read the same thing with the intermediate levers. I think there's actually a post in your trans thread about someone replacing those along with the eccentric shafts in a 7.
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  #56  
Old 04-01-2013, 04:24 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quick diagram of how the coolant leaks out--once the seal at the front of the pipe goes, coolant flows right between the timing cover and block and out the weep hole

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  #57  
Old 04-04-2013, 06:34 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Parts came in! I fuel injector o-rings and put the rail back on tonight.

Parts / coolant pipe







Parts, putting o-rings on











































Last edited by schpenxel; 04-04-2013 at 06:35 PM.
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  #58  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:32 PM
H F H F is offline
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Nice job cleaning the injectors,, what did u use to clean em,,,?
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  #59  
Old 04-04-2013, 11:20 PM
tonka858 tonka858 is offline
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cleaning out side of injector something like berrymans carb clean..

i recommend on the oring thats sealing of the water to brush this sealer on it.
also the back of the gasket for the waterpump
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80017...iation+sealers
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  #60  
Old 04-05-2013, 05:37 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H F View Post
Nice job cleaning the injectors,, what did u use to clean em,,,?
Just brass brush and WD40. Most came off pretty easy.
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  #61  
Old 04-05-2013, 05:40 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonka858 View Post
cleaning out side of injector something like berrymans carb clean..

i recommend on the oring thats sealing of the water to brush this sealer on it.
also the back of the gasket for the waterpump
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80017...iation+sealers
Been thinking about doing that with sealer. The back o ring really doesn't matter much, it's just the front. One of the videos on youtube for one of the pipe companies says to use sealer while others say not to. I'm not sure if it could hurt anything to use it or not..

I didn't pull water pump off so should still be good there

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-05-2013 at 06:35 AM.
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  #62  
Old 04-05-2013, 07:49 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Left work a little early and got an hour or two of work in before it got dark. Cleaned up mating surfaces for pipe kit and valley pan with a brass brush first. Then I installed the pipe kit. Getting the O-Ring to seat for the front seal is a @#($* (insert bad words here). I had to take it back out 3 or 4 times before it finally went in right, and I still wasn't sure even then that it was right. Everytime I'd get it in it would get kinked up or be a little bit off where it didn't look even all the way around. Pulling it back out isn't so easy either--hopefully I didn't damage it. I would have gladly paid a few bucks extra to have an extra seal or two, just in case.

Got the valley pan and coolant system back together and put in coolant. No leaks so far. I pulled one of the pipes to the expansion tank and blew in it as hard as I could and no leaks, although I'm not sure I could make enough pressure to really test anything. Before I took it apart it just dumped coolant out, so I guess it's for sure doing better than that..

Pictures:

Cleaned up the mating surface for valley pan pretty well, and cleaned where new o-rings go for pipe kit




Ready for pipe



Pipe installed--this was tougher than I thought it would be. The snap ring thing that use really should be changed--it's a total PITA the work with and scratches the tube up. Hopefully not bad enough to make anything leak.








Cooling system together enough for system to be sealed..





Notice the lack of coolant dumping out..... lol

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-05-2013 at 07:57 PM.
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  #63  
Old 04-05-2013, 07:52 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Bro, are you doing this work in a parking lot? If so, much respect!!! LOL, I haven't done major service in a parking lot before.
Although I did change the clutch in a Ford Escort (ex-girlfriend's sisters car) in a driveway, in a foot of snow, with the engine resting on my chest.
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Last edited by pjinca; 04-05-2013 at 07:53 PM.
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  #64  
Old 04-05-2013, 08:03 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Originally Posted by pjinca View Post
Bro, are you doing this work in a parking lot? If so, much respect!!! LOL, I haven't done major service in a parking lot before.
Although I did change the clutch in a Ford Escort (ex-girlfriend's sisters car) in a driveway, in a foot of snow, with the engine resting on my chest.
Yes, yes I am, lol. I live in an apartment... so doing it outside in the parking lot right outside my door. So far no one has complained that I know of, haha. Trying to keep the mess to a minimum and just bring out tools I need instead of having crap everywhere.

Really all that is left is to put the intake back on and see if it seals or not... should be done in a few hours tomorrow

I have pulled several engines and transmissions in a driveway, so I know the feeling.. The worst is when it starts raining and you're almost done with something.. so you just keep working

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-05-2013 at 08:05 PM.
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  #65  
Old 04-05-2013, 08:28 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
I have pulled several engines and transmissions in a driveway, so I know the feeling.. The worst is when it starts raining and you're almost done with something.. so you just keep working
LMAO, yup, been there. Pouring rain and you just have 6 more bolts to go
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2006 Jeep SRT-8
2003 Infiniti G35 coupe
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  #66  
Old 04-05-2013, 08:48 PM
mr29 mr29 is offline
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last major job i did was a transmission in the dead of winter in the drive way. the memory still haunts me
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  #67  
Old 04-06-2013, 11:24 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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It's alive!

No obvious leaks so far. Only had a few minutes to drive it around and coolant system did build a little pressure and held it. More pics coming

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-29-2013 at 04:25 PM. Reason: typo
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  #68  
Old 04-06-2013, 12:35 PM
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boramkiv boramkiv is offline
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Awesome!! You can do that hidden OBC menu to see your coolant temp in Celsius.
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  #69  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:09 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
It's alive!

No obvious leaks so far. Only had a few minutes to drive it around and coolant system did built a little pressure and held it. More pics coming
Congrats Bud, nice work
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2003 Infiniti G35 coupe
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  #70  
Old 04-06-2013, 03:00 PM
racooper3 racooper3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
It's alive!

No obvious leaks so far. Only had a few minutes to drive it around and coolant system did built a little pressure and held it. More pics coming
You are da man. You made it seem so easy, just like that mechatronic solenoid job you did, although that was messier job I am sure. Now I won't be so timid about changing my coolant pipe out when the seal blows. Nice work and thanks for taking the time to document in pictures and commentary. I am sure you saved a small bundle of cash doing this job yourself.
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  #71  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:18 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Originally Posted by racooper3 View Post
You are da man. You made it seem so easy, just like that mechatronic solenoid job you did, although that was messier job I am sure. Now I won't be so timid about changing my coolant pipe out when the seal blows. Nice work and thanks for taking the time to document in pictures and commentary. I am sure you saved a small bundle of cash doing this job yourself.
Thanks--honestly these cars haven't been any harder to work on than anything else, there just aren't as many tutorials on how to do everything.. so don't be skurred, lol

More pics coming

edit: also, forgot to mention, I drove around long enough for it to get hot earlier. I turned it off to let it cool off, and it's still holding pressure (about an hour after getting hot), so I can't imagine there being any leaks that would matter if it will hold full pressure for that long!

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-06-2013 at 04:24 PM.
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  #72  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:19 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Valley pan on, intake gaskets on, ready for intake



Same



How in the heck is that going to fit in there? lol


It's in.. that thing is HEAVY by yourself.





Random pictures of some pipes I replaced


Another?


DONE!! (almost--I forgot the stabilizer bar and had to pull the cabin filter housing thing back off. oops)





New style CCV piping


Other one, new CCV


NOW it's done! That top cover looks really good; I took a lot of time cleaning it when I was waiting on parts


A lack of coolant dumping out..


Until we meet again!

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-06-2013 at 04:25 PM.
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  #73  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:27 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Lastly, if anyone in the NC area ever needs this done and wants to pay me to do it, just PM me!

(note, I will not do the repair without you replacing most of the same parts I replaced--it's not worth the PITA factor of worrying about breaking every little plastic piece as it comes apart)
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  #74  
Old 04-07-2013, 11:31 AM
H F H F is offline
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Great work Bro ! Nicely done ,, after installing the URO , do u think the All German or Bimmer pipe would be an easier install? Also did u use a specific bolt pattern to torque the manifold and the valley pan bolts ? Did u notice any difference after cleaning the injectors ? Like smoother idle , and acceleration?
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  #75  
Old 04-07-2013, 12:06 PM
tonka858 tonka858 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Been thinking about doing that with sealer. The back o ring really doesn't matter much, it's just the front. One of the videos on youtube for one of the pipe companies says to use sealer while others say not to. I'm not sure if it could hurt anything to use it or not..

I didn't pull water pump off so should still be good there
Was a mechanic for the first part of my life, Always used the aviation sealer.Great stuff.
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