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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:15 AM
wyowolf wyowolf is online now
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Looks like I too have joined this prestigious club... I am so lucky!! 133k...
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  #102  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:18 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Welcome to the club! lol
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  #103  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:41 PM
MSAMMY MSAMMY is offline
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I have one of the early 2007 production builds with a build date of 06/2006. Will be interesting to see if I have the same problems as the 545i's or not. Only 58K on the clock so far!
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2007 550i, Sport Premium, Silver Gray Metallic, Gray Dakota, Navigation, Cold Weather Package, Comfort Access, Heated Rear Seats, HD Radio, Xenon


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2002 X5, 3.0i Sport Premium, Titanium Silver, Gray Dakota, Cold Weather Package, Xenon, just a winter vehicle
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  #104  
Old 05-04-2013, 08:47 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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[QUOTE=Hogie;7467552]
Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Yep, injectors came off with the intake in one big assembly. Some of the DIY's I have seen show pulling the injectors off, but it's not actually necessary. I ordered injector seals thinking I would need them when I pulled the injectors off, so now I'm not sure whether I go ahead replace them while it's apart or send them back since they were like $40. Probably will just replace them at this point.

To change exhaust valve seals you have to pull the valve covers as well and I think the valvetronics hardware has to come off. I'm not sure why you would have to pull the intake for that one though? I need to change the intermediate levers at some point, so probably will do valve seals at the same time. I need to get a backup car before that one

Here is are some pictures (and yes, that is my dryer, lol)

Too funny. I used wrong valve terminology. I meant Secondary Air valves at rear of each head. I see you are replacing the "Y" pipe so was thinking about those air valves. For me I either have LH side valve stuck or carbon in the passages. When I do the coolant pipe and have the intake off is when I plan to change those SAS valves too.
Hey, your account is setup where you can't receive PM's, so I wasn't able to message you back.

Here's what I said though:

Quote:
I have had no issues with it thus far, and would use it again if I were doing the work on another car..

The front seal is a real PITA to get in, but that's going to be the case on any of them.
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  #105  
Old 05-04-2013, 08:49 AM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Thanks! I just corrected my contacts list. Will be ordering.
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  #106  
Old 05-04-2013, 08:32 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie View Post
Thanks! I just corrected my contacts list. Will be ordering.
Sounds good. Let me know if any questions on the procedure.
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  #107  
Old 05-05-2013, 04:59 AM
wyowolf wyowolf is online now
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Just finished this job, I would highly suggest two people to remove the intake. Other then that its pretty straightforward as per OP and the PDF posted there.

I used a large diameter socket to help smooth out the seal, and I needed all the shims in the kit and still had a tiny amount of play, but I dont think it it will matter.

I got a P0444 code which is for the purge valve, a small valve under the MAF. I thought I hooked everything up, will check again, other then that no probs.

Thanks again to OP and Mike Brown for his excellent PDF file!!
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  #108  
Old 05-05-2013, 05:51 AM
wyowolf wyowolf is online now
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Note to self... actually connecting the Purge valve connector results in it actually working
duh... keep track of connectors

all better now
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  #109  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:39 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Good stuff! Yeah, those things like to be connected, haha
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  #110  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:24 PM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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What about the coolant refill process. Did you have any issues with air pockets etc. in the coolant system?

I have ordered some items from autohausAZ and will order the remaining items on Monday from ECS.

For me this is going to be a :
Waterpump and thermostat
Coolant pipe
Secondary Air Valves
Upper and Lower hoses
RH valve cover gasket

Thanks
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  #111  
Old 05-06-2013, 08:31 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie View Post
What about the coolant refill process. Did you have any issues with air pockets etc. in the coolant system?

I have ordered some items from autohausAZ and will order the remaining items on Monday from ECS.

For me this is going to be a :
Waterpump and thermostat
Coolant pipe
Secondary Air Valves
Upper and Lower hoses
RH valve cover gasket

Thanks
My way of doing it is to leave the expansion tank cap off and don't fill it all the way to the top. I run the engine up to temp and it usually burps a few times. I've never had a problem though. Just let it cool off and add coolant once cold and go.
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  #112  
Old 05-08-2013, 09:18 AM
wyowolf wyowolf is online now
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Actually this is a pretty easy job, not nearly as hard as the Timing Chain Guides on an M62 pretty straitforward and the URO pipe worked like a champ. 1000 miles in 3 days and not a drip anywhere... getting the intake out and in was the only real hard part, and two people helps with that... the rest is very straighforward...

I just filled it up... let it sit while i was putting the intake back on, then filled again... ran it... checked for leaks, cooled down overnight... topped it off. Took it on a trip... still full.
but I did use ramps.
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  #113  
Old 05-12-2013, 01:41 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krosnovski View Post
Thanks for the input. BTW, did you do the valve guides on your car as well, either now or before? I have seen a fair number of people complain about premature valve guide wear related symptoms (white smoke while idling) on the 545i's at really low miles (70k-100k -ish) as well, so was curious if you saw anything related to that.
Sorry, super late reply here but I just noticed I never answered your question.

I have not done the valve seals or guides, but have been putting some thought into changing out the intermediate levers and tackling the seals at the same time. If I had a backup car, I'd do it for sure, but right now I can't risk the car being out of commission for that long.

I have a rough idle problem once the temperature outside gets below about 45*F that will sometimes get bad enough to throw a CEL if I let it sit and idle too long while code. This is very common on the X5 (if you search for N62 intermediate that's where you'll find the most info), and while it won't cause any harm to the engine, it is pretty embarrassing for it to run so rough when cold. As soon as it gets a mile or two down the road (i.e. intermediate levers heated up enough to get them into dimensional spec), it runs perfectly smooth. If I do decide to pull apart the valvetronics system to change them out, I will most likely change the valve seals at the same time.

Prior to changing the oil last time, I noticed that if I sat in a drive through or anything like that for a long time, I would get a puff of smoke when I first got back on the road and accelerated. Same would happen if I idled down my parents driveway or something (about a mile)

After switching to Castrol european blend (can't remember the weight but it was a BMW approved oil) I haven't noticed this happen anymore. I only lost about a quart of oil in the last 6500 miles (I change it by 7500), which I am ecstatic about. I also still have some small oil leaks coming from somewhere, so that's accounting for at least some of it.

Last edited by schpenxel; 05-12-2013 at 02:45 PM.
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  #114  
Old 05-12-2013, 04:23 PM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Just an FYI... I ordered the Uro Pipe from ECS Tuning last week. I ordered some other items from AutohausAZ ( Water pump, SAS air valves and misc. items)

I ordered "Y"pipe, air pipes, coolant vent tube, coolant pipe cover/gasket, intake gaskets etc. from tomkinson BMW.

BTW tomkinson BMW in Indiana gives a 30% discount on the online orders!

http://www.tomkinsonbmwparts.com/

All proactive, at 187K I think I do not need to wait for the coolant puddle to persuade me
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  #115  
Old 05-13-2013, 05:27 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie View Post
Just an FYI... I ordered the Uro Pipe from ECS Tuning last week. I ordered some other items from AutohausAZ ( Water pump, SAS air valves and misc. items)

I ordered "Y"pipe, air pipes, coolant vent tube, coolant pipe cover/gasket, intake gaskets etc. from tomkinson BMW.

BTW tomkinson BMW in Indiana gives a 30% discount on the online orders!

http://www.tomkinsonbmwparts.com/

All proactive, at 187K I think I do not need to wait for the coolant puddle to persuade me
Good deal! I will check them out on my next order.

I'm still kicking myself for not working on the air pipes/etc. while I had that intake off. I thought the pipe that runs from the air pump to the valves was like $150+, but it was more like $45 at ECS tuning. If I had realized that I would have just went ahead and replaced it. That way I could have taken it off without fear of breaking it, and could have cleaned everything off while it was easy to get to
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  #116  
Old 05-13-2013, 05:37 AM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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I am going to tackle quite a bit. On the new air valves I can blow slightly and begin to open the diaphragms. I used compressed air to test the ones in the car and while they sounded like they were opening it took more pressure to open than just blowing from my mouth. I believe part of my SAS fault along with carbon I am sure.

Your posts on your work have been extremely beneficial! Just want to say thanks in advance.

All my parts are not in yet but will most likely do starting Thursday if all items come in. I am also thinking of doing the new alternator while I am in there. NAPA carries the Valeo new for around 375.00. Reman. is running right at 300.00.
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  #117  
Old 05-13-2013, 05:41 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie View Post
I am going to tackle quite a bit. On the new air valves I can blow slightly and begin to open the diaphragms. I used compressed air to test the ones in the car and while they sounded like they were opening it took more pressure to open than just blowing from my mouth. I believe part of my SAS fault along with carbon I am sure.

Your posts on your work have been extremely beneficial! Just want to say thanks in advance.

All my parts are not in yet but will most likely do starting Thursday if all items come in. I am also thinking of doing the new alternator while I am in there. NAPA carries the Valeo new for around 375.00. Reman. is running right at 300.00.
On the alternator, there's not a whole lot of overlap in what you have to take off to get it (nothing major anyways). To get at it, really all you have to do is pull the intake tube/maf/airbox, cover that goes over the radiator and pull the fan out. Most worrisome part for me was trying not to break that small coolant tube that runs from the expansion tank over to the top of the radiator on the drivers side. It snaps into the radiator cover thing and is a royal pain to get out without cracking. My engine was still warm when I did mine so it pulled out a little easier than usual

Last edited by schpenxel; 05-13-2013 at 05:43 AM.
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  #118  
Old 05-15-2013, 02:52 PM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
On the alternator, there's not a whole lot of overlap in what you have to take off to get it (nothing major anyways). To get at it, really all you have to do is pull the intake tube/maf/airbox, cover that goes over the radiator and pull the fan out. Most worrisome part for me was trying not to break that small coolant tube that runs from the expansion tank over to the top of the radiator on the drivers side. It snaps into the radiator cover thing and is a royal pain to get out without cracking. My engine was still warm when I did mine so it pulled out a little easier than usual


All my parts are in. On the coolant vent tube... I have a very old post on this, it cracked at 80K miles I believe. Knowing it was brittle then I DID order one with my other parts. From other posts it looks like if you make to 100k you are lucky.

Now for the BIG question of the day... When do I start? Maybe tomorrow early. I'll keep everyone posted when I do.
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  #119  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:58 PM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Wow! Must See - Coolant pipe leak

Ok folks,

If you have been following I am replacing the waterpump, thermostat, some coolant hoses, and the dreaded coolant pipe ... all proactively as I have 187K miles and really no coolant issues. I know from posts that I am on borrowed time.

1. original waterpump does have a composite impeller ( BMW but a Wahl brand)
2. New Graf waterpump has a brass impeller

Now for the coolant pipe:

Today I removed all components and the coolant pipe valley pan. To my amazement the valley was filled with coolant but not yet at the level to come out the weep hole!
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Last edited by Hogie; 05-17-2013 at 04:39 AM.
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  #120  
Old 05-16-2013, 08:27 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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The valley pan is always full of coolant. That isn't a sign of a problem at all. See all the holes on the heads and the hole at the back (under where the coolant pipe goes)? All of those are for coolant.


This is a common misconception. The problem seal seals both the pipe and the valley area at the front timing cover.

I posted some diagrams I drew earlier that explain this better.

Last edited by schpenxel; 05-16-2013 at 08:31 PM.
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  #121  
Old 05-17-2013, 04:45 AM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
The valley pan is always full of coolant. That isn't a sign of a problem at all. See all the holes on the heads and the hole at the back (under where the coolant pipe goes)? All of those are for coolant.


This is a common misconception. The problem seal seals both the pipe and the valley area at the front timing cover.

I posted some diagrams I drew earlier that explain this better.
Thanks for the clarification. I must have missed the diagrams. Makes sense. I was concerned when I saw all that coolant. Most all the Youtube videos I watched appeared to indicate that the fluid was a sign of the leak in the valley.

Good to know. I put a little edit in my post.

Did your intake have oil in it? Not dripping but I mean inside it had a film of oil and in the intake valves seems to have that same film of oil. The air vent line from the valvecovers were wet with oil too. Is this indicative of a problem?

When reassembling the valley pan, should coolant be placed back in there to help with the filling process to avoid air pockets?\

Thanks

Last edited by Hogie; 05-17-2013 at 05:23 AM.
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  #122  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:39 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie View Post
Thanks for the clarification. I must have missed the diagrams. Makes sense. I was concerned when I saw all that coolant. Most all the Youtube videos I watched appeared to indicate that the fluid was a sign of the leak in the valley.

Good to know. I put a little edit in my post.

Did your intake have oil in it? Not dripping but I mean inside it had a film of oil and in the intake valves seems to have that same film of oil. The air vent line from the valvecovers were wet with oil too. Is this indicative of a problem?

When reassembling the valley pan, should coolant be placed back in there to help with the filling process to avoid air pockets?\

Thanks
I noticed the same on YouTube which irked me a little . If you take a look at the front of the valley, you'll see that that black plastic coolant pipe (#3 below) has a direct line to pump coolant straight into (or from) the valley pan.. and the valley pan has a seal around the edge of it (where it seats to the block). I spent quite a bit of time making sure the valley sealing surface was spotless--I didn't want to have to deal with any leaks in that area for sure. I'd recommend spending some time on that on yours as well.

I did put a little coolant in mine but not sure if it's necessary. Mine had been apart with towels sitting in there soaking everything up for over a week, so i wanted to at least get a little in there.

On the intake--my intake was absolutely disgusting. It had like a caked on oily mess throughout it. I would take a look at your CCV system if you haven't changed it lately and consider changing the valves on that if you haven't recently. That's the only thing I can think of that would allow oil to get in there

You think you'll get it knocked out this weekend??

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  #123  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:40 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Also, you should be using the blue BMW coolant!
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  #124  
Old 05-17-2013, 04:51 PM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Also, you should be using the blue BMW coolant!
Yes, I had purchased the actual BMW coolant. Never put in anything else, except a slight top-off with distilled water.

Will not finish this weekend. I ordered the spark plug tubes, and the RH upper timing chain gasket and o rings for solenoids. While I have everything apart I am diving in to get all this little gasket stuff straight. I just may have a leak free N62 by Tuesday next week. Once again already did LH cylinder cover and Alternator bracket gasket few months back.

I will keep you posted.
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  #125  
Old 05-18-2013, 09:14 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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I need to work on the same sooner or later. My passenger side upper timing cover is leaking some, and I'm sure the VANOS solenoids would like some new seals at this point, lol
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