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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 03-23-2013, 11:24 PM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i
Loud boom when I disengage clutch

I drive a 1995 540i 6 speed. Under normal driving the car does fine, but when I floor it through first and load all of the power on the drive train then hit the clutch to shift i get a boom. I havent really looked in to it too much. Is there any common culprit for this? I know something has flex or play in it where it shouldnt, but I dont know where. My rear trailing arm links look a bit worn out. could it be that simple?
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2013, 12:52 AM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i SPORT /6 spd
hey, great car you got there.. i beat my 5 hard an have never had this.. how ever, on my e36 cars they were notorious for snapping the rear diff bolt.. so the diff rotates and smacks the floor.. or on my first e36 no abuse in 2nd it would thump under load, almost a pulse rather than a vibration..

that is the diff center support/guibo (sorry f i misspelled it) rubber flex disk/joint.that connects the drive shafts ..

if you rather more feel a shift within the car.. and a clunck when you let out the clutch in a real life fashion.. it could be bad motor mounts..

its hard to tell on our cars, runs so smooth revving in park/nuetral does not shake it. with blown mounts... seriously m60 even at 200k

trans mounts also, if you feel your shift wiggles a little under load, if you feel the load threw the shifter at all, there bad..

if you are good, lift the car up on a jack and slide under, you can check all that in 10 min with a flashlite and find your cuase..

goodluck 2 you sir


**** honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 03-24-2013 at 12:55 AM.
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2013, 01:05 AM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i
How does the e36 compare t0 the e34? I love my car. I have only had it less than 2 months, and I am amazed by it. It handles and runs so smooth. ( it would be hard to find an 18 year old ford that you could say that about) this is my first beamer. I have noticed that in other car companies as newer cars are coming out it seems like quality is sacrificed to save a few pennies here and there. is bmw guilty of this as well? It seems like most of the newer cars out there are made with the same plastic as a box of tic tacs....I just have no experience with bmw at all.
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2013, 01:07 AM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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....And thanks for the tips. when I find my driveline slop I will post a followup.
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  #5  
Old 03-24-2013, 09:30 AM
Bull City BMW Bull City BMW is offline
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Transmission mounts if you only hear it on hard shifts, IMO.
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2013, 01:14 PM
manuelwindows manuelwindows is offline
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Mein Auto: 1994 530i, 1977 320i
as far as I'm concerned, the e30s and the e34s are the last real cars that BMW made, after that you get the plastic bumpers and all the unnecessary electrics that cost a fortune to fix / diagnose
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:49 PM
txrealtor txrealtor is offline
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Mein Auto: '95 525it '95 525i/M
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull City BMW View Post
Transmission mounts if you only hear it on hard shifts, IMO.
+1. I would definitely make this one of the first things that I checked.
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:30 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i SPORT /6 spd
I have had bad trans mounts.. untill the motor mounts fail there no clunk, only a feeling in the shifter..

quote - How does the e36 compare t0 the e34?

having owned e30,e36,e34,e38 i can say the the e34 is a much more well rounded car. practical in ever occasion.. where although rarely, the 3 series runs out of space the 5 will always make it work. even e36 (SEDAN) to be fair by some comparison.. as we are talking apples and oranges

the e34 rides much smoother and softer and has a much less of a direct sporty feel. A e36 rides smooth but is firmer over bumps. where the e36 surrounds you with controls and gauges like a fighter pilot, the e34 has everything still driver oriented yet at an arm reach.. never in your face.. you feel more inclined to stretch arms and back when driving do to the feeling of extra interior space..

although the e36 may feel more modern, the 525 and 325 share the m50 92non vanos and 93-95 vanos m50b25 (US) and 5 speed trans

so i consider the e36 / e34 525/325 equally reliable..

equipment wise, my 93/95 e36 did not have really anything my 95 540i e34 does not have. i believe all e36 came with air bags, while early pre 92/93 e34s did not.. e36 being 92-99 it makes sense at least

what also separates these 2 cars in that in 92 when e36 came out the e34 was near the end of its run.. generally people compare i think e30/e34/e32

even though a e36 is sportier and faster in the corners a e36 M3 will loose to an even e34 540i in a straight line.. let alone an M5 (US only)

the euro E36 M3 came with a better motor that was based on the s54 and made i believe 321 HP with ITB's.. 81 HP over the us S52/S50 we got

FAR AS I KNOW.. US E36 M3 IS THE ONLY NON ITB ///M CAR EVER MADE.. IT IS SOOOOOOOOOOOO LAME!

done for emission regulation purposes, i believe this is one of the worst things BMW has done in my life time..


**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:43 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:02 AM
3star 3star is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cohen5230 View Post
I drive a 1995 540i 6 speed. Under normal driving the car does fine, but when I floor it through first and load all of the power on the drive train then hit the clutch to shift i get a boom. I havent really looked in to it too much. Is there any common culprit for this? I know something has flex or play in it where it shouldnt, but I dont know where. My rear trailing arm links look a bit worn out. could it be that simple?
several things can cause that supension related but mostlikely its the diff mounts. that said you should take it easy on the old girl shes an old cougar not a barely legal teen. if you keep beating onit like that shs gonna start punishing your pockets

a for e34 vs e36 i personally hate the 36. they are small andthe hoods open the wrong way. e34 gets my vote. i also hate the stying of them.

the 36 might handle better stock but who cares. the e34 has good aftermarket support, so handling potential is there. besides these cars handle very well stock

Last edited by 3star; 03-25-2013 at 01:15 AM.
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  #10  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:22 AM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Im sorry, i re read your post. I am most certain, you need a new driver motor mount, do both motor (2) and transmision (2) all at once if you can.. Costed me 135 for all 4 mounts.. M60 driver side is a b**** other than that.. Easy!

The lame oil filled motor mounts for m60 cant handle the torque. They fail all the time! If the rest go bad the driver mount that takes most of the rotational force snaps and it clunks bad.. So u drive like it is your first DMV drivers test.

Revshift now offers blue solid/poly or somthing mounts for about the same cost as oem with a lifetime warrenty!!

As soon as i can break this oem set im getting them, i was considering making my own out of the ones ive replaced already and some scrap metal.
I think they have differnt rigidity levels for comfort and i only hear good things from people who have tried them.

If i did not for some reson think your clunk was in the rear, id have told you this sooner.
Fyi i can not shake my m60b40 with revs even with a bad mount!

Only a lot of load makes it happen, motor torques right.. Shift, clucks back down,.. Accelerate it torques right,shift, clunk...ect

They all serm fine till they come out in 2 pieces..

Ill bet anything its your (us) driver side motor mount.
But the clunking has killed the other mounts now.
Replace the 1 it wont last



**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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  #11  
Old 03-27-2013, 11:03 AM
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ross1 ross1 is offline
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Mein Auto: Pretty much had 'em all
Not knowing where the sound comes from I'll suggest either rear subframe bushings or the driveshaft center bearing support have perished.
I doubt the motor mount as you'd have had the fan hit the shroud by now from the description of your driving. Worth a look though as it's pretty common, especially on cars with leaky power steering which has saturated the rubber mount.
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  #12  
Old 03-27-2013, 04:00 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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I have no fan shroud.. Hmm..

I bought my car with out one, and a dent in the hood that looks like the fan tried to fly up thew it.. And a new fan,clutch and radiator.. Qawincidence im sure!



**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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  #13  
Old 03-29-2013, 08:27 AM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i
Def the motor mount. The fan is hitting the shroud. The trans mounts are gone too. I am going to order some new ones from Bavarian autosports..... Unless you guys know of a better place? Looking around under there, I think I am going to change every piece of rubber on the car.
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2013, 08:47 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Mein Auto: 1992 525i
I recently replaced my motor mounts and transmission mounts. It was not terribly difficult. I use RMeuropean.com and Autohausaz.com as well and have been pleased.
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Quote:
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #15  
Old 03-29-2013, 09:47 AM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Called it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by imae34driver View Post
Im sorry, i re read your post. I am most certain, you need a new driver motor mount, do both motor (2) and transmision (2) all at once if you can.. Costed me 135 for all 4 mounts.. M60 driver side is a b**** other than that.. Easy!

The lame oil filled motor mounts for m60 cant handle the torque. They fail all the time! If the rest go bad the driver mount that takes most of the rotational force snaps and it clunks bad.. So u drive like it is your first DMV drivers test.

Revshift now offers blue solid/poly or somthing mounts for about the same cost as oem with a lifetime warrenty!!

As soon as i can break this oem set im getting them, i was considering making my own out of the ones ive replaced already and some scrap metal.
I think they have differnt rigidity levels for comfort and i only hear good things from people who have tried them.

If i did not for some reson think your clunk was in the rear, id have told you this sooner.
Fyi i can not shake my m60b40 with revs even with a bad mount!

Only a lot of load makes it happen, motor torques right.. Shift, clucks back down,.. Accelerate it torques right,shift, clunk...ect

They all seem fine till they come out in 2 pieces..

Ill bet anything its your (us) driver side motor mount.
But the clunking has killed the other mounts now.
Replace the 1 it wont last
As i mentioned above the the lifetime warrenty revshift mounts if you dont drive like grama, want a lifetime warrenty or wanna do them again soon!



**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2013, 09:49 AM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i SPORT /6 spd
Called it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by imae34driver View Post
Im sorry, i re read your post. I am most certain, you need a new driver motor mount, do both motor (2) and transmision (2) all at once if you can.. Costed me 135 for all 4 mounts.. M60 driver side is a b**** other than that.. Easy!

The lame oil filled motor mounts for m60 cant handle the torque. They fail all the time! If the rest go bad the driver mount that takes most of the rotational force snaps and it clunks bad.. So u drive like it is your first DMV drivers test.

Revshift now offers blue solid/poly or somthing mounts for about the same cost as oem with a lifetime warrenty!!

As soon as i can break this oem set im getting them, i was considering making my own out of the ones ive replaced already and some scrap metal.
I think they have differnt rigidity levels for comfort and i only hear good things from people who have tried them.

If i did not for some reson think your clunk was in the rear, id have told you this sooner.
Fyi i can not shake my m60b40 with revs even with a bad mount!

Only a lot of load makes it happen, motor torques right.. Shift, clucks back down,.. Accelerate it torques right,shift, clunk...ect

They all seem fine till they come out in 2 pieces..

Ill bet anything its your (us) driver side motor mount.
But the clunking has killed the other mounts now.
Replace the 1 it wont last
As i mentioned above get the lifetime warrenty revshift mounts if you dont drive like grama, want a lifetime warrenty or wanna do them again soon!



**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2013, 08:31 PM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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Got the motor mounts in! that drivers side is a bitch!!!!!!!! got it from the top with extensions and swivels. I hope I dont ever have to do that again.
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2013, 08:37 PM
txrealtor txrealtor is offline
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Mein Auto: '95 525it '95 525i/M
Quote:
Originally Posted by cohen5230 View Post
got the motor mounts in! That drivers side is a bitch!!!!!!!! Got it from the top with extensions and swivels. I hope i dont ever have to do that again.
lol! +100000000000
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  #19  
Old 04-03-2013, 09:04 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Hmmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by cohen5230 View Post
Got the motor mounts in! that drivers side is a bitch!!!!!!!! got it from the top with extensions and swivels. I hope I dont ever have to do that again.
Well if you ignored multiple warnings and did not do all 4 mounts or did not order revshift..
Get ready to do it again! Figure in the next 3 months, give or take.


**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:45 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2013, 07:48 PM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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what warnings? :
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2013, 07:49 PM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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got the trans mounts in today. those were almost to easy.
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  #22  
Old 04-04-2013, 07:58 PM
cohen5230 cohen5230 is offline
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I thought my engine was pretty smooth. i guess not. It feels like it is running rough after i put all of those stiff mounts in there. I think I am going to change the plugs and I will do a compression test while I am at it.
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2013, 11:54 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Solid mounts transfer more vibration than oem oil filled factory mounts. It should not be terrible but may require a little bit of time and getting used to.. Also.. Although they are made of solid poly.. It shud develope a tiny bit of give as it settles, i think..

Going from motor floping around to mounted solid is a huge change. And even oem rubber mounts feel super hard for the first day..

Either way, beats the hell out of doing them again!

And if you can break one, at least the new ones free!


Ive wondered about having a driver side solid and passenger side oem mount..
Might be smooth and strong were it is needed



**** honda / fck honda

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-08-2013 at 12:45 PM.
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