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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-24-2013, 05:44 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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So...I Cleaned My Intake Valves...

A little bit of history on what's been happening.

WITHOUT A TUNE: The car runs perfectly fine when below 160 degrees. The second it gets to 160+, the car will "sputter" if you get too heavy on the throttle. If you hold the throttle down and let it sputter enough, the car would throw an SES light and run ****ty until restarted.

WITH A TUNE (JB+): Everything above remains the same. However, if I have a tune in the car and I try to floor it, the car takes a huge gulp of air, then throws an SES light and will run ****ty until restarted.

I cleaned my intake valves today (first time in 75k miles).
I used carb spray and rags...so, I wasn't able to make them perfect.

Since cleaning them, the car idles SO much smoother. At operating temperature, it still sputters if you get heavy on the throttle...but it does it nowhere near as violently before.

Oh, and the biggest thing...I can now floor it. It won't throw an SES light. It will sputter while accelerating still...but before, I could not floor it once without it messing up.

I'm wondering if I didn't get the valves good enough...or if it's a different problem?
The valves still had gummy buildup on the stem and in the bottom of them when I finished...and I'm assuming the gummy buildup on the bottom is what is making them not seat properly...thus, the problem.

What do you guys think? Do you think this little bit of buildup can still cause a pretty big problem?

The after shots were actually taken of the two intake ports that I cleaned the best.
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2013, 06:07 PM
psmitty95 psmitty95 is offline
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The stuttering sounds kinda like a misfire to me... Did you check for codes after you get the SES light? If it says misfire then gives you a cylinder you should start diagnosing. First swap coil packs then get it to throw the code and see if the code followed the coil pack. If it didn't then you can try spark plugs and if it still stays in the same cylinder it means you need a new injector.
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2013, 06:10 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmitty95 View Post
The stuttering sounds kinda like a misfire to me... Did you check for codes after you get the SES light? If it says misfire then gives you a cylinder you should start diagnosing. First swap coil packs then get it to throw the code and see if the code followed the coil pack. If it didn't then you can try spark plugs and if it still stays in the same cylinder it means you need a new injector.
It is a misfire. I've tried doing that. The misfire has no pattern.
Every time I clear the codes and get it to shoot another SES light, the misfire comes up in a different location...or multiple locations.
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2013, 06:27 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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do you have any valves that was leas gunked than the others? If so this is a possible sign that it has a leaky injector and needs to be cleaned or replaced.

FYI You can take a flat head and scrape the walls of your intakes around your valves as they are not smooth you will not cause hot spots with any scratching.
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  #5  
Old 03-24-2013, 06:32 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leekay07 View Post
do you have any valves that was leas gunked than the others? If so this is a possible sign that it has a leaky injector and needs to be cleaned or replaced.

FYI You can take a flat head and scrape the walls of your intakes around your valves as they are not smooth you will not cause hot spots with any scratching.
Believe me...
I think I got them as best as I could. I DID take a screwdriver and scrape the stems off and tried to scrape the bottom, but it wouldn't budge. I soaked them down and put a screwdriver inside of a rag and tried to scrape it off while it was wet, but I only got so much.

They were all equally gunked. Some cleaned easier than others...that's about it.
How does that indicate a leaky injector, exactly?
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:20 PM
CALWATERBOY's Avatar
CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemorrhage View Post
Believe me...
I think I got them as best as I could. I DID take a screwdriver and scrape the stems off and tried to scrape the bottom, but it wouldn't budge. I soaked them down and put a screwdriver inside of a rag and tried to scrape it off while it was wet, but I only got so much.

They were all equally gunked. Some cleaned easier than others...that's about it.
How does that indicate a leaky injector, exactly?

Why not walnut shell blast?
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:22 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
Why not walnut shell blast?
I didn't realize it would be that difficult to get off purely with carb cleaner and rags.

However, if that little bit of gunk IS what's causing the problem, I WAS going to go out and buy the walnut blasting kit and redo it.
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:46 PM
jburke4689 jburke4689 is offline
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You did a great job without the blaster. It should fix your problem but it won't last as long as the walnut shell blast. I bet you won't have any symptoms for at least 20k miles.
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:49 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Originally Posted by jburke4689 View Post
You did a great job without the blaster. It should fix your problem but it won't last as long as the walnut shell blast. I bet you won't have any symptoms for at least 20k miles.
I still have the symptoms...just on a smaller scale.
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  #10  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:50 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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the start pick really has not got that much buildup I am thinking that maybe mine really did go 130,000 miles without having it done :P
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  #11  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:51 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Originally Posted by Leekay07 View Post
the start pick really has not got that much buildup I am thinking that maybe mine really did go 130,000 miles without having it done :P
What were your symptoms?
What caused you to clean them?
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:52 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...3&d=1354651486
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:53 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Originally Posted by leekay07 View Post
holy **** lol.
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:57 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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Umm Mine started with the car missing really bad on a cold day. Then I throw SES and they diagnosed leaky injectors and bad gasket. had them replace them drove home and still had hesitation at 3,500 in 5th. ( Put the car into 5th at the lowest speed then press the gas to wide open position (down 75% of the distance on the travel of the gas pedal). Then let it build.

My injectors were bad yes. But the dealer kept screwing me around on the Diagnostics trying everything but the valves telling me they don't diagnose cars using the web :P anyway took the car back from them and stripped it and cleaned it myself.

When I had the dealer do it he tried to tell me it was bad turbos.

Right you wish..
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Last edited by Leekay07; 03-24-2013 at 07:59 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:00 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leekay07 View Post
Umm Mine started with the car missing really bad on a cold day. Then I throw SES and they diagnosed leaky injectors and bad gasket. had them replace them drove home and still had hesitation at 3,500 in 5th. ( Put the car into 5th at the lowest speed then press the gas to wide open position (down 75% of the distance on the travel of the gas pedal). Then let it build.

My injectors were bad yes. But the dealer kept screwing me around on the Diagnostics trying everything but the valves telling me they don't diagnose cars using the web :P anyway took the car back from them and stripped it and cleaned it myself.

When I had the dealer do it he tried to tell me it was bad turbos.

Right you wish..
Were the symptoms gone after you cleaned them?
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  #16  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:03 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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Yep.
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:05 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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Originally Posted by Leekay07 View Post
Yep.
My thought process is...

If the symptoms got better because I cleaned them, they HAVE to be the reason.
If they weren't the reason, I'd have seen zero improvements.

At the same time...it's hard to imagine that the little bit of gunk I couldn't get is going to make it misfire as bad as it is.
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:07 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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How ever a few weeks ago (this is weeks later) I did go out to my car and find it started really rough white smoke came out the tail pipe and the smell of un burned fuel filled my car. Tried it 3 times finally pressed the BMW assist button (cool that I have coverage on a car with 145,000 miles and had to have them come pick up the car because I believed an injector had gone bad. They diagnosed a bad injector and I told them replace all 3 (last time only 3 was done). Got my car back and its ran great now.
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  #19  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:08 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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Originally Posted by Hemorrhage View Post
My thought process is...

If the symptoms got better because I cleaned them, they HAVE to be the reason.
If they weren't the reason, I'd have seen zero improvements.

At the same time...it's hard to imagine that the little bit of gunk I couldn't get is going to make it misfire as bad as it is.
I am pretty sure you should change plugs, injectors at 75,000 seems a good time to do it.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:09 PM
Hemorrhage Hemorrhage is offline
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I am pretty sure you should change plugs, injectors at 75,000 seems a good time to do it.
The plugs were changed at 70k.
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  #21  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:11 PM
Leekay07 Leekay07 is offline
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Then pull them and see which one is fouled up.
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