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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-29-2013, 09:58 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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the official wheeler000, '95 325iC all problems thread!

this is the official consolidation. I believe my car has most possible problems so this should be a pretty interesting thread.

as I have taken care of many things that's my first few threads, this thread will start with what is still wrong and will continue through how I have had things fixed eventually through to a total restoration, I hope.

current and immediate issues I'm dealing with:
1. SRS warning light, sometimes its on sometimes it's not.
2. oil on 5 of 6 Park plugs: doing valve cover gasket tomorrow.
3. Code 1253, something wrong with injector number 3. will replace if necessary after fixing the valve cover gasket to insure a faulty reading is not occurring due to oil on the plug, and after allowing adequate mileage for fuel injector cleaner to take affect.
4. a small leak in the immediate front of the drivers side of the car, probably a radiator hose or fitting.
5. I noticed a lot of oily grime on the high pressure power steering hose to the pinion. will look above said area for or leaks. probably years of messy people removing the oil filter, it is a mediately above the affected area.
6. low speed, hi exceleration transmission slipping
7. all 3 seats are totally beat down
8. small hole in top of convertible roof along with rear window stitching detaching, plan on replacing roof with a new 1 from AutoBerry.
9. the ignition key is awfully hard to turn.
10. aftermarket CD player installation, no code plus me no likey. replace with original OEM stereo.
11. Dent surrounding passenger side headlight in header or nose panel. already have estimate of 200 dollars to fix.

and that's all for now, easy breezy beautiful...
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  #2  
Old 03-29-2013, 12:25 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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brake switch

call me dumb if you want to but I have to ask, is the brake light switch on the brake pedal the same switch that releases the automatic transmission selector from park?
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  #3  
Old 03-29-2013, 02:42 PM
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dc_wright dc_wright is offline
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Yes.
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  #4  
Old 03-29-2013, 02:57 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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I knew it
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  #5  
Old 03-29-2013, 03:21 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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Another dumb one, I think I know the answer I'm just being sure about my specific car.
can I do a normal brake job and bleed the brakes when I'm done without having to hook it up to the dealer computer to pump the ABS?
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  #6  
Old 03-29-2013, 04:45 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Yes. As long as you don't disconnect the ABS pump lines and just do a normal flush and bleed, you'll be fine.
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BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #7  
Old 03-29-2013, 04:49 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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cool, I figured as much I just wanted to be sure. thanks guys you're the best!
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  #8  
Old 03-29-2013, 04:51 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Remember: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Are you changing fluids or just bleeding?
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #9  
Old 03-29-2013, 05:00 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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the end goal just being to put a new set of ceramic pads on because the PO probably put on something cheap semi metallic, and a Sat there for a long time. I won't be the least bit surprised if I end up needing a new master cylinder when I get into this. but I'm just gonna bleed if everything is okay.

so what is the logic and or history behind this sequence? I've owned about 30 cars and changed the brakes on every single 1 of them with no regard to the order. I did crimp the lines on my Civic one time, but so far that's the only mistake.
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  #10  
Old 03-29-2013, 05:09 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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You start the bleeding sequence with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder, and work your way down to the nearest wheel. To be honest, I've done it without regard to wheel location and it worked fine, but that's what BMW recommends. I don't recall if you have a 5 speed or automatic. If you have a manual, bleed the slave cylinder last. The brakes and clutch share the fluid reservoir.

The idea in flushing the system every couple years is to get all the moisture out to prevent rust-through from inside the lines. Just bleeding them is OK, but pumping enough through that there's fresh fluid throughout is best.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #11  
Old 03-29-2013, 05:15 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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thank you, I will keep all of this in mind. I just figured I would change the brake pads while I'm waiting for the VCG to seal up nicely. this information will help me, I appreciate it.
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2013, 02:13 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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VCG done. The only thing I did that I didn't see in any write ups was I remove the studs from the head. 10 Newton meters sure as heck doesn't feel like much

did brake light switch, super easy. here is a hint take out the whole bracket and smash the old switch out with a hammer!
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2013, 02:56 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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so now my brake lights won't turn off. I'm not sure that wasn't always the case.
and...I'm wondering if the computer learned how to run the car with oil on the plugs because since VCG it's sputters and goes crazy for a few minutes before it finally gets to idle.
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:11 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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was I supposed to put a rubber grommet were the ground strap for the coils go? I'm thinking not but I did.
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2013, 04:11 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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Just went on test drive it seems great. no stalling at stops and idle is dead on 1000 rpm at rest. what is my current working theory that the computer had to learn how to drive without oil on the spark plugs.
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  #16  
Old 03-30-2013, 05:50 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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1k rpm is a little high at idle, but it may come down after you drive it a bit more. Normal idle is ~700.

Grommet on the coil ground? I don't think so.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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Old 03-30-2013, 05:53 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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it would be nice to know for sure about that grommet. I just can't remember 1 came off they're not. wouldn't still carry the ground signal down through the stud even with that grommet?
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:46 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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I was just researching is ground straps, I cannot find the answer I need but I did see where it says I'm supposed to have another ground strap in between 3&4. I do not have it and I do not see a logical place for it to be either. of course you can put 1 on the coil under the 10 millimeter bolt but I don't see a place for to attach to the head. could it be that not all 836 is are setup to have to ground straps for the coils?
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheeler000 View Post
it would be nice to know for sure about that grommet. I just can't remember 1 came off they're not. wouldn't still carry the ground signal down through the stud even with that grommet?
A grommet goes on every passage through the valve cover, and the ground studs still make contact because the thread contact is metal to metal.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:58 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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yeah I said as much out loud to my wife but I can't stress enough this is my first BMW in a long time and I am lucky to a found this valuable resource of all you guys here so that I might double check my own thought process with more experienced BMW owners.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:02 PM
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There are supposed to be three ground straps. You risk getting misfires without all of them in place. The studs for the ground straps tend to break somewhat easily and someone may have broken on off and just replaced it with one of the regular fasteners.
This is a good DIY with lots of good photos.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:12 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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yeah I have that article pulled up on my phone while I was out working on the car. didn't really have to refer to it though during the job pretty straightforward process. I found his advice on where to put the limited amount of sealant. I have worked on a bunch of other cars before so I have a general mechanical experience just not a BMW specific experience. unless I'm missing something the engine he's working on which is exactly like mine only has 2 ground straps. wires to the coils do come out in 2 sets of 3 it would make sense to have 1 ground strap on each set of 3. this missing second ground strap could be the reason my computer is telling me to check injector 3, maybe it's coil 3, luckily I have a new 1 in the trunk. too bad tomorrow is Sunday in the junk yard is closed. when I have to put that second strap in.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:22 PM
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If you have the plastic valve cover you need the 3 ground straps. Cars with the older cast aluminum valve cover can get away with 2 usually. I was thinking you had an M52 engine but I believe you have an M50.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:24 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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yeah she's aluminum
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:11 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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I'm seeing some stuff on other sites that suggested there may be only one ignition coil ground strap in the engine.
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