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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 03-31-2013, 07:50 AM
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The M50 with the aluminum cover has two straps, the M52 with the plastic cover has three. This DIY shows the two straps for the aluminum cover.
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  #27  
Old 03-31-2013, 08:15 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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I am going to install a second. I was just saying on another BMW site that will remain unnamed a lot of guys were referring to their ground strap "singular" on the m50 engine and referring to some method or way of seeing how it grounds all six coils. so either there are a lot of ground strap thieves out there or there maybe something to this.
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  #28  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:17 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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let's just say for the sake of argument that my car only has 1 ignition coil ground strap by design. will it hurt anything if I install a second ground strap, let's say at coil number 3. by extension I could ask would it hurt to put a ground strap on every coil.
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  #29  
Old 04-01-2013, 09:20 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Another ground won't hurt a thing and may just help.
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  #30  
Old 04-01-2013, 09:25 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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okie dokie
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  #31  
Old 04-01-2013, 09:34 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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trying to track down a part number for that Stud to receive the other into the ground strap. this is were things get hairy in the parts list. more than likely a junk yard part.
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  #32  
Old 04-01-2013, 10:38 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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so I'm going to do my brake pads afternoon. get ready to gasp...I plan on doing what I have always done and use a Giant C clamp how to compress the calipers. anything special for BMW specific I should watch out for other than the sensors in the wires. I'm thinking more along the lines of not blowing up my master cylinder. has anyone ever posted their step by step with picks?
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  #33  
Old 04-01-2013, 10:50 AM
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You'll be fine compressing it with a C clamp.

Any errors in this post are purely Swype's fault, not mine.
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  #34  
Old 04-01-2013, 03:34 PM
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Just watch that you don't damage the piston boot. Keep the clamp face on the piston and you'll be fine. Depending on pad wear and how full the brake master cylinder reservoir is, you might have to remove a bit of brake fluid to prevent it from overflowing.
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  #35  
Old 04-01-2013, 04:04 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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brake job delay, instead I fooled around with with brake light switch and got it working. some combination of messing with the red thing and bending the bracket.

installed second ignition coil ground strap. it's either coincidence or actually did make a difference in the way the car started.
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  #36  
Old 04-01-2013, 04:51 PM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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In CA, I think it is illegal for a junk yard to close on Sundays...
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  #37  
Old 04-01-2013, 04:55 PM
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I wish, barely made it there before 5 today to get my ground strap. I am so lucky that I live 5 minutes away from the junkyard with the most BMWs all of this whole region...and the owner is a longtime family friend, like back to my grandfather old.
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  #38  
Old 04-01-2013, 05:07 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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here's a brain teaser for you.. why does the brake light switch bracket have a second opening facing the other way. my guess is it for right hand drive cars what do you think?
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  #39  
Old 04-02-2013, 07:37 AM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Sounds possible...or the designer couldn't remember which way it was supposed to work?????
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  #40  
Old 04-02-2013, 07:41 AM
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now I'm thinking it's got something to do with the clutch if I had a clutch. maybe for the switch that kills the ignition if the clutch is not depressed
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  #41  
Old 04-02-2013, 03:49 PM
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so I got the rear brakes done, easy as pie but hit a snag with the front brakes. my lugs are so tight that I broke a reducer, foiled an impact gun, and pretty much gave up. but it's the front ones I really needed to do, only doing all 4 to make sure they are ceramic pads. now I'm left with the prospect of a breaker bar and the fear of snapping my lugs. currently have them soaking in WD 40 once again.
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  #42  
Old 04-02-2013, 04:19 PM
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When it's that bad, I take it to a tire shop and ask then to hit it with their impact wrench and just lightly tighten it back up for me. Has worked a few times now and saved a lot of frustration. I've got a few broken lug wrenches to my tally from ridiculous crap like that.

Any errors in this post are purely Swype's fault, not mine.
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You're a derbanana
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  #43  
Old 04-02-2013, 04:22 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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probably my only resort. Damn fools, you should have to pass a background check to get an impact gun.
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  #44  
Old 04-02-2013, 04:25 PM
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probably my only resort. Damn fools, you should have to pass a background check to get an impact gun.
Wouldn't that be nice.





.....but the torque stick keeps it from going too tight......let me just pop this on and tighten away

Any errors in this post are purely Swype's fault, not mine.
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You're a derbanana
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  #45  
Old 04-02-2013, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheeler000 View Post
currently have them soaking in WD 40 once again.
WD-40 is pretty useless for what you're trying to do. WD is an abbreviation for water displacement which is what it was originally developed for. It's a very marginal lubricant and totally useless as a penetrating oil for stuck or frozen fasteners. You need something like PB Blaster, CRC, or Kroil (hard to find).
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  #46  
Old 04-02-2013, 06:24 PM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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It may be a moot point in this case. they're not rusted nor have they been sitting for years. it's just that the po took it to merchants and some knucklehead tried and failed to break them off. I really don't know how they stay in business but the better question and I will ask it 1,000,000 more times I'm sure is who in the hell takes a BMW to merchants. sure he lived 2 blocks from merchants so I get it but I live in an area where a lazy rich BMW owner has not only multiple BMW dealerships but multiple independent shops that specialize in BMW.
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Last edited by wheeler000; 04-06-2013 at 07:52 AM.
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  #47  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:56 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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how can a person tell if his or her rear springs were bad and do the rear shocks have anything to do with ride height? I noticed my rear wheel seemed to have a whole lot of lag with jacking up the car to take off the wheel and the wheels sit awfully deep inside the fenders when put back on the ground. I can tell from a visual inspection I need shocks but how can I tell if I needed Springs?
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  #48  
Old 04-06-2013, 09:24 AM
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Go to the useful links sticky and download the Bentley manual from the "This one went missing" link. There's a procedure in the Bentley that tells you how to check proper ride height which is what you do to determine the condition of your springs.

Also, your springs have nothing to do with holding your wheel up when you jack up the car. The suspension will move until it hits the lower travel limit and then the tire will lift.
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  #49  
Old 04-07-2013, 10:50 AM
wheeler000 wheeler000 is offline
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so...the brain to my keyless remote entry system hanging from under the passenger dashboard. I do not believe that is where it's supposed to be. I don't really need it I'm not a clicker kind of person and I just want to get it out of the way and reinstall the dash panel. can I just unplug it?

pS I looked and looked for this answer before posting.
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  #50  
Old 04-07-2013, 11:40 AM
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Is it aftermarket? If so, just unplug all of it. There was a a Sidewinder system in my '93 that decided one day to go batcrap crazy. I ended up jerking the whole mess out and tossing it. Problem solved.
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