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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-08-2013, 06:24 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Changed ofhs Twice with oem and still leaking !

What the heck man???? I was so careful to clean it up and seat the gasket right... torqued it down to 18 flb. . I just don't know what else to do. I cleaned everything up, put the front end up on ramps and literally watched the oil begin to seep from the bottom corner of the ofh and then start to drip... AAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT AM I MISSING ??????
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  #2  
Old 04-08-2013, 06:35 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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And the brand of the OFH gasket is....
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:41 PM
kmorgan_260 kmorgan_260 is offline
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I'm guessing something isn't lining up correctly. Make sure the alignment bushing isn't bent and there aren't any burs on the surface anywhere.

Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:07 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Whatever brand the dealer sells... That's where I bought it.

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Old 04-08-2013, 07:24 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Did you clean the groove inside the OFH well?
Also the mating surface on the block: any old gasket stuck there?
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:53 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Yes and yes.... I had recently replaced it two weeks earlier with a Victor Reinz gasket and it still leaked. So I went and bought a gasket from the dealer and I was extra diligent in cleaning the groove the mating surface and making sure the gasket was Seated properly. The corner that is seeping is the corner that has the alignment bushing so I'm thinking I missed something there. Another question I have is the torque value.... Is 18 flb. enough? Thanks for your help!

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Old 04-08-2013, 08:41 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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A thought....in 2009 when I did my OFH gasket (see DIY below), I saw oil below the OFH itself.
Later, as it turned out, it was old residual oil that I failed to clean up properly.
So wipe the area below the OFH really well, then watch for any new leak.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414315
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2013, 09:59 PM
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I did.... I cleaned it up then put the car on ramps, cranked it up, got under it and watched the cleaned dry ofh begin to seep from the lower corner and quickly star dripping.

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Old 04-08-2013, 10:05 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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The banjo bolt (Vanos line) behind the OFH: was it properly tightened?
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:09 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Also, some people increased the torque from 16 ft-lb to 20-22 ft-lb:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-still-leaking

You have an M52 engine engine, so iron block, it can handle a bit more torque on the bolts.
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  #11  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:16 PM
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Yes and I replaced the crush washers with ones I got at the dealer. I can see it leak from the bottom corner of the ofh . I know where it's leaking from.... Just can't figure out why. I'm gonna take it back off and look at that bushing.... I must've done something to it..

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  #12  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:18 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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I'm also wondering if 18 flb is tight enough. I've heard 18 and 24 depending on the grade of the bolts.

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  #13  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:21 PM
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Actually did my freeze plugs too.... Great write up!

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Old 04-09-2013, 05:45 AM
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THAT is EXACTLY what I was thinking!!!! I read the torque value is based on the grade of the bolts. Mine were the 8.8 (I think thats what it is) which had a torque value of 18 (according to the thread I read) . I thought that seemed a little under done in my personal opinion, but then again who am I to question someone who's successfully completed the diy.... so I was thinking at the time. I'm debating on taking it off or just tightening it up. Thanks cn90 for the great suggestions and simply letting me think out loud atcha. Due to the impending possibility of tornado warnings and thunderstorms I doubt I'll get to it in the next couple of days, but I'll post back with what I find. Thanks again!

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Old 04-09-2013, 09:13 AM
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bkgreene39 bkgreene39 is offline
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Interesting advice in this thread, http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=530036&page=2 Including the possibility that an oil filter housing itself can become warped.
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  #16  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:22 AM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkgreene39 View Post
Interesting advice in this thread, http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=530036&page=2 Including the possibility that an oil filter housing itself can become warped.
That is what I was about to suggest, the possibility the OFH mating surface is not perfectly flat, or that it might have a crack (inspect with an 8 or 10x loupe)

To check for it being flat, a thick piece of glass or marble can work...
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:36 PM
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My indie says OFH warping is more prevalent than one might expect.

As well as valve cover cracking.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:58 AM
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This may be the case because it leaks worse now than before I ever messed with it. I'm gonna pull it again Saturday morning.... If weather conditions allow.


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Old 04-11-2013, 08:29 AM
carlova78 carlova78 is offline
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Wow, I think I'm having the same problem. I just changed out the vanos oil line and crush washers too.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:49 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diggyd357 View Post
This may be the case because it leaks worse now than before I ever messed with it. I'm gonna pull it again Saturday morning.... If weather conditions allow.
If the OFH leak is worse after you did the job, then chances are the housing itself is fine and there is something wrong with the procedure itself.

What you can do if you remove it:
- Save the seal.
- Get very fine sand paper and clean both the engine side and the OFH side.
- Don't install the alternator/belt
- Run the engine for a brief 15-30 sec and check for oil leak: this way you can rectify the problem right away.
You won't overheat the engine during this short period of engine running 15-30 sec.

PS: There 6 bolts with varying lengths, make sure the correct bolts go to the correct places:


Last edited by cn90; 04-11-2013 at 08:51 AM.
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  #21  
Old 04-11-2013, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherGeezer View Post
My indie says OFH warping is more prevalent than one might expect.
This is why BMW changed the mechanical tensioner to the hydraulic version. The mechanical tensioner has 2 tightening points, whereas the hydraulic has 3, impeding the OFH to warp. Eurodavid went to the bottom of this issue, and there is also a BMW TSB - but they (BMW) issued it for rattling of the OFH. It start rattling, because it warps. Here is the whole saga, page 3 has the fix.
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  #22  
Old 04-16-2013, 06:06 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Ok... Starting to believe it's warped. I tore it all back down, cleaned the hell out of it, reseated oem gasket, even added some sealant to both sides, torqued it down to 22ft lbs and while the leak isn't as bad... It still leaks nonetheless. I just can't take the leaking oil... It's driving me crazy!!
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:44 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I am wondering why the OFH is warped AFTER your repair.
Perhaps you should bring it to a machine shop to see if they can measure the "straightness".
Otherwise buy a used one from ebay.
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  #24  
Old 04-16-2013, 07:01 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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My guess is that was the reason it was leaking in the first place. I've had the oil leak since I bought it about 6 1/2 months ago. It just seemed to get worse after changing the ofhs.
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  #25  
Old 04-16-2013, 08:48 PM
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Don't know if you want to try this or not , but it worked for me on the first try--I bought a product called the right stuff (Auto Zone) I used this product in conjunction with the gasket and then let it set up over night--6 years and no leaking--I just used a very light coating over both sides of the gasket and applied it with a Q tip--when this suff set's up--it's strong and will hold
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