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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 10-20-2011, 12:46 PM
barmatt barmatt is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 BMW 525i
1995 525i will not start. Nothing happens when the ignition is turn

My 1995 525i is down. Turn the ignition and nothing happens. Just replaced the battery w/ new one. The B-mechanic is currently troubleshooting to locate the culprit. Anyone out there experienced a similar problem? Please advise!!
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2011, 01:22 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barmatt View Post
My 1995 525i is down. Turn the ignition and nothing happens. Just replaced the battery w/ new one. The B-mechanic is currently troubleshooting to locate the culprit. Anyone out there experienced a similar problem? Please advise!!
1. This problem is too easy to solve. I could do it in my sleep. That's how often I've struggled with this before.

2. These are the typical problem areas for our car : Fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump. These constitute 95% of the observed no-start cases.

3. These are the atypical problem areas : Bad ignition coils, bad spark plugs, bad dme, clogged fuel filter, busted fuel pressure regulator, busted starter or battery (not the case if the engine is turning over but not firing up). All these constitute 5% of the observed cases.

4. Download the bentley manual and get familiar with it. It will show you how to test all the components listed above in #2

Show this post to your b mechanic and ask him to take it from there.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-20-2011 at 01:24 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:23 PM
BMR_LVR's Avatar
BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Mein Auto: 1992 525i
Other possible causes as well:

1 - Bad neutral safety switch if you have an automatic transmission

2 - Activated EWS or faulty EWS module.

3 - Bad starter

4 - Bad ignition switch

Here is an article on the EWS that may be helpful:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/BMW_EWS.pdf

No-start situations can be very perplexing. Hopefully your mechanic will be able to accurately and quickly diagnose and fix the problem. Please report back as to the cause once it is fixed.

Steve
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #4  
Old 10-20-2011, 03:25 PM
TDanza525i TDanza525i is offline
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Mein Auto: 1990 525I
Sound like what Steves right I know that the mazda 3s had problem with the neutral saftey switch all you had to to to start it was put the car in (n) and it would start i would give that a try just for the hell of it. do any lighs come on on the dash board? if you are have i buddy put i test light on the starter wires and see if its getting power if it does replace the starter. hopefully it not the EWS.
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2011, 07:40 AM
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ross1 ross1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
1. This problem is too easy to solve. I could do it in my sleep. That's how often I've struggled with this before.

2. These are the typical problem areas for our car : Fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump. These constitute 95% of the observed no-start cases.

3. These are the atypical problem areas : Bad ignition coils, bad spark plugs, bad dme, clogged fuel filter, busted fuel pressure regulator, busted starter or battery (not the case if the engine is turning over but not firing up). All these constitute 5% of the observed cases.

4. Download the bentley manual and get familiar with it. It will show you how to test all the components listed above in #2

Show this post to your b mechanic and ask him to take it from there.
OP clearly stated NOTHING HAPPENS. None of your suggestions have merit(as usual)other than looking at a service manual.
"Show this post to your mechanic" WTF do you think you are? Once again I inquire as to YOUR credentials.
I pity those that take your advice. You singlehandedly ruin this forum.
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:19 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
OP clearly stated NOTHING HAPPENS. None of your suggestions have merit(as usual)other than looking at a service manual.
"Show this post to your mechanic" WTF do you think you are? Once again I inquire as to YOUR credentials.
I pity those that take your advice. You singlehandedly ruin this forum.
Ross1, I love you. I really do. Me heart overflows with love for you.
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:35 AM
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ross1 ross1 is offline
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Ross1, I love you. I really do. Me heart overflows with love for you.
Recognizing that you like the attention I was reluctant to make the post.......... but your just such an asshole. I'm not interested in explorations of your feminine side or matching wits with an unarmed opponent.
really wish you'd can it or your s-box would finally die so you'd choose another forum to menace.
Adios
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  #8  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:40 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
Recognizing that you like the attention I was reluctant to make the post.......... but your just such an asshole. I'm not interested in explorations of your feminine side or matching wits with an unarmed opponent.
really wish you'd can it or your s-box would finally die so you'd choose another forum to menace.
Adios
Love one another, sayeth the lord, who is most certainly beyond both male and female. So I shall love thee my persecutor and accursor, even when you have maligned my poor car.

Ross1, I would like you to have a really spectacular day dude ! And I hope your car heals !
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  #9  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:49 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDanza525i View Post
Sound like what Steves right I know that the mazda 3s had problem with the neutral saftey switch all you had to to to start it was put the car in (n) and it would start i would give that a try just for the hell of it. do any lighs come on on the dash board? if you are have i buddy put i test light on the starter wires and see if its getting power if it does replace the starter. hopefully it not the EWS.
If you have to replace/ rebuild the starter, you're probably going to have to remove the intake manifold on your m50 engine.

Take this opportunity to replace the long octopusian coolant hose that runs under the intake manifold. Its only like $50 new and is very difficult to replace otherwise. There are also one or two other coolant lines running from the radiator or head (i forget) to the throttle body - have those replaced with new ones. These hoses are not expensive, but can be a pia to change due to the position of the intake manifold so a great idea to replace them if you have to remove the manifold.

And oh yes removing the intake manifold will expose your Idle control valve (ICV) to easy access. Remove it and have it cleaned out thoroughly with carb cleaner, and replace it. Damn difficult otherwise.

If you have some spare cash, take the opportunity to replace the two coolant temperature sensors that are on the engine head as well. They are only $25 apiece for OEM and are a cinch to replace once the intake manifold is removed.

Intake manifold gaskets need not be replaced if they look good when removed, but you can if you have spare cash. Same too with the throttle body gasket. Usually they don't need to be replaced if you are being careful while removing it.

Ask your mechanic for more ideas to take advantage of the easy access if you need to remove your intake manifold to get at your starter. Show this post to him too.
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2011, 04:45 AM
mjfeeney4 mjfeeney4 is offline
M Feeney
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Mein Auto: BMW 525i E34
Last night I expereinced a similar problem and my 95 E34 is sitting in the parking lot at work. The symptoms are similar to this post Here is what I've observed.

Lights are on, battery seems ok, no starter ( clicking or otherwise) when the ignition key is turned. Tried starting in neutral ( neutral switch) but no difference.

But there's more. I read the post from BMR LVR with great interest ( thank you for the link to the EWS details), because the auto door locks are not functioning ( had to manually iopen with key and only the driver's side opens). Furthermore, the onboard computer has been intermittant lately, with the display being off most times but occasionally it will turn back on ( clearly not the display but the computer). The power locks have been acting strage for about 3 months, requiring a second lock after the door locks pop back up) but I thought it was a sticking mechanism ( not a EWS problem).

The car has otherwise been running very well, with no indications of starter problems.

Does this sound like a EWS problem or could the problem be relatted to the onboard computer? Any expereinced help would be greatly appreciated ( like the BMR post ). I am very familliar with this car after 16.5 yrs and 198K miles and can troubleshoot / repair most problems. Oh, and I have the Bently manual and have read through it but this one is more than a starter or fuse or link I'm afraid.
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2011, 07:19 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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1. Your crankshaft position sensor is busted. Its a $60 part, but can be a pain to change as the wiring is not conveniently located.
2. Along with changing that (which will get your car going again), please change the following :

a. Relays for the fuel pump, dme, o2 sensor and main relay.
b. Get a new fuel pump.
c. If you ever have occasion to remove your intake manifold, have your started rebuilt or put in a new one.
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2011, 07:43 AM
mjfeeney4 mjfeeney4 is offline
M Feeney
Location: Pennsylvania
 
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Thanks for the reply but other than your suggestion about replacing the DME, the other recommendations are not consistant with the engine not cranking. Note that the power locks are not working and that the computer display has been mostly off indicating some problem related to the onboard computer. Here is what I intend to do today:

1. try to start with a different key ( bad transponder in key)
2. jump between 12V positive and pin 50 on starter ( bad starter or solenoid?)
3. jump start in case the battery volage is low
4. disconnect battery negative for a few minutes, reconnect to reset system

Any suggestions would be welcome but I'd prefer help in diagnosing the DME, EWS, aint-theft issuses.
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2011, 08:47 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjfeeney4 View Post
Thanks for the reply but other than your suggestion about replacing the DME, the other recommendations are not consistant with the engine not cranking. Note that the power locks are not working and that the computer display has been mostly off indicating some problem related to the onboard computer. Here is what I intend to do today:

1. try to start with a different key ( bad transponder in key)
2. jump between 12V positive and pin 50 on starter ( bad starter or solenoid?)
3. jump start in case the battery volage is low
4. disconnect battery negative for a few minutes, reconnect to reset system

Any suggestions would be welcome but I'd prefer help in diagnosing the DME, EWS, aint-theft issuses.
I agree with the above except I would recommend that you put a proper charge on the battery if you have a charger. It is better than jump starting. Either way, if you get it cranked, I would proceed directly to a local auto parts store and have your battery and alternator checked.

Let us know how it goes.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #14  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:20 AM
JJRussell JJRussell is offline
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Hi, I'm a rookie to BMW but just had a no start issue. It turned out to be the EWS module that was faulty. I also had the door locks out.
My mechanic was able to by pass the ignition and start the car - but not with the key which then led to thinking it was the EWS Module. The mechanic had it refurbished or replaced and now car works great.
I was offered some advise about doing a EWS delete - and found a link when I googled it. Good luck.

Here's the link to my forum post -
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...31#post6408031
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  #15  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:31 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJRussell View Post
Hi, I'm a rookie to BMW but just had a no start issue. It turned out to be the EWS module that was faulty. I also had the door locks out.
My mechanic was able to by pass the ignition and start the car - but not with the key which then led to thinking it was the EWS Module. The mechanic had it refurbished or replaced and now car works great.
I was offered some advise about doing a EWS delete - and found a link when I googled it. Good luck.

Here's the link to my forum post -
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...31#post6408031
Agreed JJ. It can very well be the EWS, but it is best to rule the other things out first. However, MJ Feeny's problems do sound familiar to the ones in your link above. Hopefully he will get it figured out soon. Key will be for him to make sure he has a good, fully charged battery.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #16  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:51 AM
JJRussell JJRussell is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 525 wagon
Yes - good point. And we think my old battery may have triggered all of the problems in the first place.
It wouldn't take a charge so it was replaced first - but still ended up with the EWS problem. (E34 95, too)
But it took, battery, checking all relays, fuses, wires, etc and then finally the EWS module..

By the way, I copied the wrong link before (I was in the wrong forum at first)
Heres the E34 - link
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=577906

Good luck - I'm not qualified in anyway shape or form to offer advise...I do however suspect that the 95 EWS modules may have a 'lifespan' that has run out.
I'm considering having my mechanic by-pass it so that I'm not stranded with that issue again.
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  #17  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:59 AM
JJRussell JJRussell is offline
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And one more quick similarity, my battery appeared to be fine - all of my lights etc came on - but, when tested the voltage was low...this is what my mechanic suspects was the reason for other failures.
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  #18  
Old 11-12-2011, 10:01 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJRussell View Post
And one more quick similarity, my battery appeared to be fine - all of my lights etc came on - but, when tested the voltage was low...this is what my mechanic suspects was the reason for other failures.
Yeah, that is very common with the E34. It DEMANDS full battery voltage. Any significant drop just wreaks havoc on these cars.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #19  
Old 11-12-2011, 10:28 AM
CRYOBMW CRYOBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
1. Your crankshaft position sensor is busted. Its a $60 part, but can be a pain to change as the wiring is not conveniently located.
2. Along with changing that (which will get your car going again), please change the following :

a. Relays for the fuel pump, dme, o2 sensor and main relay.
b. Get a new fuel pump.
c. If you ever have occasion to remove your intake manifold, have your started rebuilt or put in a new one.
Why do you constantly insist people change parts just for the sake of changing them? Are you made of money? Just because a part could possibly fail doesnt mean it has. Fixing a car by changing stuff that commonly fails is not only costly but an ignorant way to go about it! Please stop giving bad advise!!!!!

Find what failed and replace or repair it. Not every E34 needs a new crank sensor.

Its a shame so many people here think you are a genius with these cars. You may have mastered the pages of a bently manual but that's it.

Last edited by CRYOBMW; 11-12-2011 at 10:32 AM.
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  #20  
Old 11-12-2011, 10:30 AM
CRYOBMW CRYOBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
OP clearly stated NOTHING HAPPENS. None of your suggestions have merit(as usual)other than looking at a service manual.
"Show this post to your mechanic" WTF do you think you are? Once again I inquire as to YOUR credentials.
I pity those that take your advice. You singlehandedly ruin this forum.
Thank you sir!!!
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  #21  
Old 11-12-2011, 02:45 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by CRYOBMW View Post
Why do you constantly insist people change parts just for the sake of changing them?
Because we're talking about 20 yr old E34s, with known problems, some of which can be very disruptive to life (the no-start issues).
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2011, 03:07 PM
mjfeeney4 mjfeeney4 is offline
M Feeney
Location: Pennsylvania
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 525i E34
So the problem appears to be related to the door locks/sensors as I was able to start the car once the power locks engaged (locking from the passenger side lock then unlocking from drivers side). I agree with many of the points about likely causes of faults on older E34s as I have had the car since new ( 1995) and have completed almost all of the repairs and maintenance myself over the past 16.5 years.

Fortunately the problem does not appear to be in the DME ( expensive) or the EWS. The locks have failed to syncronize. I checked the fuses under the back seat (sometimes can cause the locks to lock/unlock until the second try), so now I'm focusing in on the locking actuators/sensors as this can cause the problem I'm experiencing. The fuel door locking mechanism is not actuating ( checked the power and it is ok) so I'll try replacing the unit and see if this allows me to syncronize the locks.

Thanks for the suggestions and I'll update the post at a later date once the problem is identified and solved.
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2011, 03:11 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Thanks for keeping us updated. Let us know once you get it sorted out.

Steve
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #24  
Old 11-12-2011, 03:21 PM
CRYOBMW CRYOBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Because we're talking about 20 yr old E34s, with known problems, some of which can be very disruptive to life (the no-start issues).
So just because its a 20 year old car and is known to have issues we should replace every part that is still good because they are known to fail. Good logic there.
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  #25  
Old 11-12-2011, 08:43 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYOBMW View Post
So just because its a 20 year old car and is known to have issues we should replace every part that is still good because they are known to fail. Good logic there.
Only those which :

a.Relate to no start issues. The reasons for this are obvious. CPS, FP, FP relay. Not cheap, not necessarily DIY, but no choice.

b. Safety issues. The reasons for this are obvious. The abs relay falls into this category. DIY.

[ Less urgent but highly recommended would be switching the stock brake hoses (which might be cracking by now) to new steel braided ones (which cost the same as stock hoses, are reinforced with steel and provide better braking). Labour involved, and can be done when brake rotors, pads and brake fluid are changed. ]

c. Overheating issues (the simpler ones). The reasons for this are obvious. Radiator cap, bleed screw and upper and lower radiator hoses, cheap sweet smelling bright green coolant. Cheap,easy, DIY stuff.

d. Anything else that's important but pretty cheap. The reasons for this are obvious. O2 and DME relays fall in here. DIY.

My goodness ! Its obvious !

Please ignore these if you own a talking car that leaves you voicemail well before anything major falls apart.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-12-2011 at 09:50 PM.
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