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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:11 PM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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97 1.9L Z3 Cam timing issues

Hey guys and girls, Ive had some problems with my Z3 where the water pump gave way and blew my accessory belt apart. The wife was driving and decided to just get home which was 5 minutes away and so it was a little hot when she arrived home. The pipe at the rear of the block for coolant came off due to the pressure also.
I replaced water pump, thermostat and belts, along with refitting that nightmare of a pipe around the back.
Once I replaced all these then ran the car it was obvious that the head had gone bad. The car ran rough and when I viewed the block I could see coolant flowing from the head gasket. It was kinda expected but I was hoping for it not to have.

Ive stripped the manifold off and found some breather pipes corroded badly to the point that they were blocked solid, I think Ive sorted this out now using a drill bit and drilling by hand (twisting with fingers only). All I need now is a longer bit.
Ive put the flywheel to TDC (top Dead Center) by feeling with my fingers, Ive inserted a drill bit into the hole as I don't have access to the correct tool. And when I look at the marks on the wheels they point directly up to the sky. Then I look at the tear-drop cams and the ones for one are not pointing at each other, one points up and the other to the side. The square blocks at the back of these are both flat upwards and level against each other which I have heard of people timing this way but I think is totally incorrect.
I'm just not too sure if these are sitting correctly from when work has been carried out before. I need to remove all these for then I get the head skimmed so will have to make a tool to keep these in the correct position but if they are already in the wrong way then whats the point? Oh and the car has not really had much power since I bought it.

Sorry for the big write-up and thanks for reading. I'm planning to carry on with the car on Friday if anyone would like to input before then.

Thanks all
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:23 PM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:23 PM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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  #4  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:24 PM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2013, 04:46 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunksquirrel View Post
... Ive put the flywheel to TDC (top Dead Center) by feeling with my fingers, Ive inserted a drill bit into the hole as I don't have access to the correct tool. And when I look at the marks on the wheels they point directly up to the sky. Then I look at the tear-drop cams and the ones for one are not pointing at each other, one points up and the other to the side. The square blocks at the back of these are both flat upwards and level against each other which I have heard of people timing this way but I think is totally incorrect....
Bentley says
Quote:
Set engine to approximate TDC by rotating in normal operating direction until camshaft lobes at cylinder 1 point up and face each other. NOTE: At TDC, camshaft sprocket marks are lined up with vertical axis of engine. As the engine is installed at a slight angle, the sprocket marks are not vertical relative to the ground. Lock camshafts at TDC by mounting BMW special tool 11 2 240 over square ends of camshafts...
Maybe someone installed your timing chain a little off.
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2013, 09:29 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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Thank you for your reply, Vintage42. I shall have a look on how to time the engine correctly. As for the part in the manual that says 'rotating in normal operating direction until camshaft lobes at cylinder 1 point up and face each other.' Im not too sure if the lobes should be up or facing each other. maybe in the light Ill see what this means. Thanks again
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2013, 11:04 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunksquirrel View Post
... As for the part in the manual that says 'rotating in normal operating direction until camshaft lobes at cylinder 1 point up and face each other.' Im not too sure if the lobes should be up or facing each other...
I was puzzled by that contradiction, too. The illustration looks like the lobes are pointing up.
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  #8  
Old 04-10-2013, 11:19 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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I think I see, the lobes are facing up but they lean in towards eachother, maybe the inward parts of the lobes are vertical leaving the sides on the slide. Maybe...possibly...hopefully???
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  #9  
Old 04-10-2013, 12:47 PM
dougmcintyre dougmcintyre is offline
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Perhaps these references will be useful:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...ght=cam+timing
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27495
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  #10  
Old 04-10-2013, 01:59 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunksquirrel View Post
I think I see, the lobes are facing up but they lean in towards eachother, maybe the inward parts of the lobes are vertical leaving the sides on the slide. Maybe...possibly...hopefully???
I think you solved it. It must mean the sides of the cam lobes are facing each other, with the tips of the lobes pointing up.

Last edited by vintage42; 04-10-2013 at 02:01 PM.
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  #11  
Old 04-10-2013, 09:29 PM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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Cheers guys, I'm prob going to send the head in all complete because I think I can reach all the head bolts without removal. removal send it to the shop and hopefully they can have a look. I'm an electrical engineer (light) not a mechanical engineer (heavy) so I'm not too confident at this stage. Maybe I can find a heavy to help. I'll let you know what happens
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2013, 11:32 PM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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Right... So Ive had a look at this again and when the flywheel is unlocked I move the chain until the pointer arrows are pointing perpendicular to the head surface instead of the ground. The lobes do look how I said in the previous post where the number 1's point in towards each other slightly but are up like they are leaning in. Looks like Ill be re-doing my timing then, really excited as this should give the car some more power as its been a bit poor on power since I bought it.

Anyway, so I took the chain off and tied it up so it doesn't go missing down into the hole. Number 1 head bolt off (cut my arm), number 2 head bolt - torx bit No12 doesn't seem to fit all the way on, ahh yes, the bolt is grollied on and I'm not too sure what to do next. Maybe drill it out??? Definitely need that heavy now.
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  #13  
Old 04-12-2013, 12:39 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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OK so hammer and a lot of effort means number 2 off, 3 came easy, 4 is being a pain (cut my hand when it slipped). My resident heavy has said that worst comes to worst then we can drill a hole in it then weld another bolt onto it. Good idea I think but we will see if we need to do that. I'm only posting a running commentary as its a little warm outside meaning regular breaks.
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  #14  
Old 04-13-2013, 06:59 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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What are these head bolts made of? Ive tried drilling it out but nothing seems to touch it really. I'm now using HSS+CO8%, I need to get some real Cobalt bits. The head of the bolt is nearly about to go. Why is it that the bolt is rounded off like chocolate but when you drill it its like drilling into diamond? Oh well, More drill bits on order.
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2013, 04:01 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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Ive got the head off finally. Found that the flywheel doesn't lock the engine at TDC. So maybe I didn't have a timing issue after all. Oh well. Next to skim the head and replace the gasket. Ive cleared the blockage in the manifold too. Today seems like a good day.
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2013, 05:10 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunksquirrel View Post
Ive got the head off finally. Found that the flywheel doesn't lock the engine at TDC... Next to skim the head and replace the gasket...
Here's the manual on re-installing the head. The torqueing looks complicated. Click a second time on the pages and they go full screen.
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Last edited by vintage42; 04-14-2013 at 05:11 AM.
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  #17  
Old 04-14-2013, 05:44 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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You are a star mate. Thank you. I do have a manual but it looks slightly different to yours. Thank you
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  #18  
Old 04-26-2013, 07:46 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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Hey all, I thought Id update the situation. Ive got the head back and when it came I noticed the idiots at the shop put the cams on the wrong way round. So I stripped it down carefully and went to rebuild but found that six or so of my hydraulic lifters were springy. Also the garage that normally fixes my car said they would sort out getting me the gasket kit but hey forot to order my head bolts. Ive now ordered the bolts and a set of hydraulic lifters and they arrive tomorrow hopefully. I will also carry on trying to find the thicker gasket as the head has been done in the past and prob could do with the extra 3mm. if anyone has any suggestions about what else to change whilst im at this point then please let me know.

Oh and if anyone has a list of what all the little gasket parts are in the gasket kit then please post. I know all but 4 of them.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:30 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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well I've nearly done it. Got the new bolts and only one hydraulic lifter. Put it back together and found that it was leaking coolant from the radiator and from the back of the head (that really hard to reach pipe at the back). Found that the plastic pipe was cracked so ordered a new one from Sharjah. It came today and so started it up. ran like crap like it was misfiring. I took the plugs back out and cleaned them with a copper wire brush (should be putting new ones in really) and it ran a little better.
I found it was stalling quickly so tried adjusting my crappy throttle cable but that didn't really help. Whilst thinking about the problem and having the throttle cable really tight I leaned on the intake manifold, suddenly the revs jumped up. After taking the upper off I found that the lower intake manifold bolts weren't even tight. My bad. Put it back together and found it much better but still not right. Finally I realised that after taking the manifold apart I hadn't connected the MAF or IAC (DOH).

Anyway it runs like a dream apart from the leak in the radiator and it overheating. I'm getting the radiator re-cored or replaced tomorrow so hopefully it will be back on the road tomorrow.

If anyone is looking for bmw z3 parts in Dubai, sharjah or the other emirates then please message me and ill let you know of a couple of places in sharjah with GPS co-ordinates.
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:55 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunksquirrel View Post
... found that it was leaking coolant from... from the back of the head (that really hard to reach pipe at the back). Found that the plastic pipe was cracked so ordered a new one from Sharjah...
If that plastic coolant connector was bad, this one will be bad, too:
11531714738
01 Connector
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=11&fg=10&hl=1
Get the O-ring, too.
Requires removal of the intake manifolds, so best to do it while you are in there now.
You can see it here:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...hlight=cooling
And here:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066
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  #21  
Old 04-30-2013, 05:28 AM
drunksquirrel drunksquirrel is offline
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Thanks mate, I did inspect it whilst it was out and it looked OK. Ill order one anyway just in case and replace it some other time.
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