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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-11-2013, 04:31 PM
drek drek is offline
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Location: Arlington, VA
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 525it; 2004 645CIC
Another E39 Radio Problem

I have a 2001 525it without nav, and my amp regularly cuts out. After researching the forum, I did the following:

1. Reseated all fuses.
2. Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes.
3. Looked for ignition switch problems, including the "visor test" and didn't find anything unusual.
4. Replaced the amp, which worked for one month and then the problem recurred.
5. Repeated 1-3 above.

Through experimentation, I've now found that if I disconnect and then reconnect the rear plug on the amp (the one closest to the back of the car with the tab that you depress to remove), the amp always works properly for 15 minutes or so.

Before progressing to other repairs, any advice on whether this sounds like the ignition switch (though no other electrical problems arise) or the cold solder joints - which are the other solutions I saw posted in the forum - or whether it sounds like some other problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2013, 04:36 PM
retiredat44 retiredat44 is online now
retiredat44
Location: Oregon
 
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Mein Auto: BMW
Lightbulb

too bad you don't have spare cables, to swap out, one at a time..

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  #3  
Old 04-11-2013, 05:50 PM
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DennisCooper! DennisCooper! is offline
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Hi,

Yep, as per above, you might have some wiring continuity issues and perhaps it's 'shorting out' somewhere and causing the amplifier to fry? another very feasible option is that the amplifier just came to the end of it's useful life, and as the replacement was also of a similar age, that one also was at near end of life and gave up a short while later. I've been mentioning that aspect for some time now, the oem modules are all at least 10 years old, so failures are going to increase in frequency. From this point onwards, you can choose to keep the oem modules and hope that another amplifier change will mean it lasts longer than a few months, or, ditch the oem stuff and replace with new higher quality and performing after market modules etc. In the meantime, try some more fault finding - perhaps a leak of moisture/water somewhere causing a short? the amplifier is overheating and going to thermal cutout? etc etc....

Cheers, Dennis!
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:07 PM
drek drek is offline
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Location: Arlington, VA
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 525it; 2004 645CIC
Thank you for your helpful replies. No obvious signs of moisture or overheating, but I'll keep an eye out for these. Based on your replies, I won't bother with cold soldering or replacing the ignition switch, which were my next steps. So thanks again for your replies.
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:24 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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The amp has internal thermal protection. Make sure nothing is blocking it from air circulation. Check each speaker circuit in case there's a short somewhere. By using balance and fadar controls, you s/b able to isolate which speakers are not working before the amp shuts down.
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Last edited by edjack; 04-11-2013 at 06:26 PM.
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2013, 06:37 PM
drek drek is offline
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Very interesting suggestion. The main speaker in the driver's side door doesn't work (using either my original amp or the replacement amp).

Also, if I disconnect and reconnect the amp, it plays. After doing this, if I run the amp for one minute, turn off the car, and then restart it, the amp runs properly for a few minutes. But if I run the amp for one minute, and I turn off the car for an hour or two, I need to disconnect and reconnect the amp for it to work at all. Thanks again for all your helpful advice.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:25 PM
rstackels rstackels is offline
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Location: indiana
 
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Mein Auto: bmw 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by drek View Post
Very interesting suggestion. The main speaker in the driver's side door doesn't work (using either my original amp or the replacement amp).

Also, if I disconnect and reconnect the amp, it plays. After doing this, if I run the amp for one minute, turn off the car, and then restart it, the amp runs properly for a few minutes. But if I run the amp for one minute, and I turn off the car for an hour or two, I need to disconnect and reconnect the amp for it to work at all. Thanks again for all your helpful advice.


so does that mean that you need to replace the driver front speaker? if you did that and it works lmk im having kind of the same symptoms
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