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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:22 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Alternator/ Dynamic Drive Question

My Dynamic Drive problem has been driving me crazy for a while now. I did a lot of diagnostics this week, & things are starting to point to the alternator. I am getting over voltage from the alternator, causing problems with over voltage on circuit 30, that feeds the Dynamic Drive.

When the voltage spikes, it causes a problem with the Dynamic Drive system. I also spotted some type of code from the alternator, but it deleted itself when I ran a quick test. Running a test on the DME, my voltage started spiking, & the engine started surging. This was when the engine had very little voltage draw, with almost all creature comforts & lights off. The warning light goes off at random times, but usually after the car has been driven for 20 minutes or more. I guess this would have time to charge the battery, & cause the voltage regulator to not control properly. I saw voltage spiking up to 16 volts. I have an over charging issue, verses a normal loss of charging output. My battery is around 6 months old, & is checking good. I hate to spend a 120.00 on a voltage regulator, when I can buy a New Valeo alternator for 299.00, shipped to my door. Does anyone have any thoughts that might help me confirm my suspicions? I am using DIS & INPA to do my diagnostics, along with a VOM.


Thanks for any thoughts!

Herb
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2013, 01:53 AM
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All-Or-Nothing All-Or-Nothing is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
My Dynamic Drive problem has been driving me crazy for a while now. I did a lot of diagnostics this week, & things are starting to point to the alternator. I am getting over voltage from the alternator, causing problems with over voltage on circuit 30, that feeds the Dynamic Drive.

When the voltage spikes, it causes a problem with the Dynamic Drive system. I also spotted some type of code from the alternator, but it deleted itself when I ran a quick test. Running a test on the DME, my voltage started spiking, & the engine started surging. This was when the engine had very little voltage draw, with almost all creature comforts & lights off. The warning light goes off at random times, but usually after the car has been driven for 20 minutes or more. I guess this would have time to charge the battery, & cause the voltage regulator to not control properly. I saw voltage spiking up to 16 volts. I have an over charging issue, verses a normal loss of charging output. My battery is around 6 months old, & is checking good. I hate to spend a 120.00 on a voltage regulator, when I can buy a New Valeo alternator for 299.00, shipped to my door. Does anyone have any thoughts that might help me confirm my suspicions? I am using DIS & INPA to do my diagnostics, along with a VOM.


Thanks for any thoughts!

Herb


They don't cost $120......

Get it right now for $69.95 on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-X5-545-6...041e66&vxp=mtr


Search around....when I bought mine it was $35 but I can't remember the website.

Here is Exactly which one you need




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  #3  
Old 04-19-2013, 04:35 PM
davewoolley davewoolley is offline
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Do you have to take the alternator off to change this out?
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  #4  
Old 04-19-2013, 07:27 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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It can be done, but it will be fairly tight. I have not done this yet, but I have read threads stating it can be done. I am still debating whether I am going to buy a new alternator, or buy the voltage regulator. Based on all of my testing, I think I could get by with just a regulator. My problem is if the regulator does not fix the problem, I have wasted 100.00. Your car could have a different problem, resulting in a different repair. The alternator can be removed & installed in around 1 to 1.5 hours once you have removed it before.
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2013, 08:25 PM
davewoolley davewoolley is offline
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Alternator/ Dynamic Drive Question

I've been told that it could be that or the alternator. Do you have a DIY on how to change out the alternator? It looks real tight.


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  #6  
Old 04-21-2013, 12:49 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Here is a thread that I found today that helps confirm that my voltage regulator is bad. It is amazing how many dealers can not diagnose this problem. Below is a very good thread to read.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=316911
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2013, 08:04 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I finally got around to my changing my voltage regulator out today. It took around 1.5 hours to complete the task. The alternator is putting out a steady 14.4 volts. I have not heard the engine idle this steady, in quite some time. It will probably take a few days of driving, to see if my Dynamic Drive errors go away. I will make a post in a few days, to update everyone.

I am hoping for the best!
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:33 AM
davewoolley davewoolley is offline
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Herb,Was it pretty simple to pull the altenator?
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2013, 05:38 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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You need tor remove the cooling fan 1st. This is done by removing the top cover for the radiator. This is 10 bolts that have torx heads. Then remove the drive belt. The alternator has 2 bolts that will need to be removed. Unplug the wire with the plug, & remove the hot wire to the battery. Then you have to work the alternator out of the bracket. The hard part is getting the alternator seated back in the bracket properly. After that is fairly easy. Make sure to remove the ground wire from the battery per TIS.

Good Luck
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  #10  
Old 05-06-2013, 06:34 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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After 7 days of driving, my Dynamic Drive error is finally gone. I hope this post might help others with the same symptoms!
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2013, 06:36 PM
davewoolley davewoolley is offline
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Alternator/ Dynamic Drive Question

I took the plunge and had a alternator put in on Friday, no dynamic drive issues so far.


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  #12  
Old 05-06-2013, 07:38 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I hope it works out for you. Who would have ever thought the 2 would have been related?
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2013, 08:05 AM
davewoolley davewoolley is offline
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I never would have believed it.... But working for now.
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  #14  
Old 06-27-2013, 07:05 AM
numoo numoo is offline
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"HerbP
You need tor remove the cooling fan 1st. This is done by removing the top cover for the radiator. This is 10 bolts that have torx heads. Then remove the drive belt. The alternator has 2 bolts that will need to be removed. Unplug the wire with the plug, & remove the hot wire to the battery. Then you have to work the alternator out of the bracket. The hard part is getting the alternator seated back in the bracket properly. After that is fairly easy. Make sure to remove the ground wire from the battery per TIS."

Did you have to remove all the hoses in front of the Altenator? I have a 2004 645. Thanks
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  #15  
Old 06-27-2013, 10:43 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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You will not have to remove any coolant hoses. The recirculation pipe/line on top of the cooling fan will need to be worked around, or removed from the expansion tank. This line is usually quite brittle, so be carful while working with it.
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  #16  
Old 06-27-2013, 10:45 AM
numoo numoo is offline
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Thanks! HerbP.
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  #17  
Old 06-29-2013, 06:57 AM
numoo numoo is offline
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Do I need the PIN when releasing the tension pulley ? Tool 11 3 340. Also any one know what size the Torx is for this pulley , 45 was to small.

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Engine_Tools2.html

http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/6_Se...dex.php?id=369

Last edited by numoo; 06-29-2013 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Added info and links
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  #18  
Old 06-29-2013, 04:52 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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The pin is not needed to remove the alternator belt. The pin is used for installation purposes. Do not remove the pin, until getting ready to install the belt. I think the torx head is a 50.

Good Luck!
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  #19  
Old 06-30-2013, 07:12 AM
numoo numoo is offline
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Anybody got advice on how to get the alternator of the bracket? This sucker just does not want to wiggle off! Belt off, bolts off...alternator not cooperating. There goes an 1.5 hrs this morning.
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  #20  
Old 07-01-2013, 02:19 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Originally Posted by numoo View Post
Anybody got advice on how to get the alternator of the bracket? This sucker just does not want to wiggle off! Belt off, bolts off...alternator not cooperating. There goes an 1.5 hrs this morning.
The alternator is a very tight fit. If you remove the nut on the drivers side motor mount, you can raise the engine to gain more room. You can use a floor jack & a block of wood to raise the motor around 2". Pay very close attention to not keep jacking, when the motor hits the firewall. You should be able to use a pry bar to work it out of the bracket.

Good Luck!
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  #21  
Old 07-01-2013, 07:36 PM
numoo numoo is offline
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Thanks HerbP.
Funny that the TIS mentions nothing about that. It makes it sound as if it would slide forward once the deflector wheel on the alternator was taken off.
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  #22  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:11 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Originally Posted by numoo View Post
Thanks HerbP.
Funny that the TIS mentions nothing about that. It makes it sound as if it would slide forward once the deflector wheel on the alternator was taken off.
You learn the things from the school of hard knocks!

Good Luck!
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  #23  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:20 AM
Kevin Bowen Kevin Bowen is offline
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Your Alternator Problem

It's your voltage regulator. You can get one on ebay for $55. I fixed mine about 3 weeks ago. Go to BimmerForums. I did a complete write-up with pictures. Just search my name "Kevin Bowen" and you will find it.
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2013, 11:09 PM
numoo numoo is offline
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Thumbs up Alt Test result from PepBoys

Thanks very much to both Herb and Kevin.

So I got this result with the the new regulator (see thumb nail). Did either of you get your alternators tested? I got mine tested at PepBoys and Orileys, the results were the same.

Anyone know what the "Lamp on voltage" means? (Read on another form that these Tests are not accurate and have errors also) I'm tempted to put this back on the car, as the higher voltage B+ came down from 15.15, and ripple dropped from 0.77. The Failed test did not change from old to new VR.

Drove from Baltimore to Houston and the car did not die on me with original VR. I did have a spanking new battery placed before I did that though. Just kept getting one elct error after another, which would go away and come back on its own, like Herb, Kevin and some of the others on this forum.

Any last advice gentlemen?

Thank you all.
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  #25  
Old 07-11-2013, 08:34 AM
Kevin Bowen Kevin Bowen is offline
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Did you replace the regulator ?
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