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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 04-21-2013, 10:28 AM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Mein Auto: 1991 bmw e30/ 2005 mini S
fuel delivery issues 325e swap

Hello all, I am a recent proud owner of a 1991 318is e30 who got an 1987 325e engine swap . The thing is I didnt do the swap.. ergo a lot of confusion and frustration. I got this car on a CL from a kid who seemed like he knew what he was doing.. that wasn't the case. I got the car it was in pieces, the radiator was in the trunk no hoses to be found. Nothing interior was bolted down etc.. So I got to work, first working with the radiator, got new hoses, new battery, fuses. I connected it all together and it did crank fortunately. Which the kid said it would.. but i figured he lied about the car, why not this, so all is not lost. So I got starter fluid to see if it would bite and start,; Which it did! so it runs and holds idle as long as i have a constant stream of starter fluid going in to it. Now that i figured out it is definitely a fuel problem I need some help on figuring out whether its a fuel pump issue or somewhere in the line it's not connected here are some of my concerns

here is my ECU and in line with the this connector

Does anyone know what this is? is it important to fuel?

just so people know here is the harness connector, reading on other forums I know people have had connection problems(i.e. round connector from ecu with square connector on chasis, or other way around)


I also read that going from the 4 cyl moder to 6 you have to change the fuel pump fuse for i think 15 ampere or 7.5 ampere to a 30 ampere fuse. So looking at a diagram i changed all fuel related fuses with 30 ampere fuse


I also checked the line fuse thats located in the back that runs to the ECU which looks to be fine

So looking further into the problem, the manual says there is a main relay? but the diagrams i look at for the fuse/relay box there are all wiper head light relays I believe

Sorry if the seems to be a repost. I did read a lot on other forums/maunals(both haynes and bentley) and tried their solutions with no results. Is it just the fuel pump?

Thanks_a_
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2013, 06:55 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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you have learned why not to buy someones elses project car. the swap he did is probably one of the worse ones possible.

being that youre already having major wiring problems, heres what you can do, try and trace wires to proper diagrams, which will be very tedious and time consuming. or start from scratch. but the fuel problem can be from the cps. or the ecu is wrong and sending out false signals.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:52 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Yeah I know but i figured I am going to be doing this swap anyways. But lesson learned. I read about these swaps, it didn't seem no worse than any other. Yes, i will tediously go through the wire diagram, I am no stranger to this restoring old Honda motorcycles!

I read on the CPS and what i understand is that it wouldn't be firing if that was the case. Though the ecu could be. I am going to order new relays(main and fuel) and cross my fingers. In the mean time I'll be hitting the diagrams in the manuals
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:38 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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the big thing would to find if the injectors are pulsing or getting the voltage to open.
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:14 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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So I'm first going to check the in line fuse and make sure that power is actually getting into the ECU ( I'm pretty sure he did a rear battery conversion), then if that's not the case then the ECU it's self AND THEN the injectors if all checks out
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  #6  
Old 04-24-2013, 01:37 PM
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Newman271 Newman271 is offline
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prolly just fuel pump relay. My 2.7 I just swapped out had that problem once so I swapped the foglight relay for the fuel pump relay. You'll see the three relays in a group on the driver side with a black cover over them next to the O2 altimeter.
I just did the M30 swap and converted the 22 pin motronic 1.3 from the motor to the 85 motronic 1.0 rectangle harness from the car with no problem. It's not too hard to do. Most colors in the harness are pretty much color match with exception to maybe 4.
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2013, 04:00 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Thanks for the suggestions, I tried what you said but stilll no luck.. Though today I replaced the inline fuse and the some of the relays still nothing.. I did at ECU check with help from this site http://www.rtsauto.com/ecu-pinout-an...cal-tests-e30/

I am getting voltage to my ECU and other parts but when I did the fuel injector check, I got no noise but it still read 3.94 v in both wires (123 and 456) but my roommate listened for me and he said there as nothing. Also when i checked the fuel pump I heard no noise... reading through some stuff sounds like it's a pretty common thing to fail. So I'm going to drop a bill and get one. Does anyone have brand suggestions? should I use a fuel pump from 325e?
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  #8  
Old 04-24-2013, 04:08 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hohokam View Post
I'm pretty sure he did a rear battery conversion
you are new to the german scene......thats factory for a reason.

could try to score a junkyard ecu and pop it in to test
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:07 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Haha I wish I could claim that but I have 2005 Mini S that has been a little trouble maker for the past 3 years.. Yeah I was planning on making it out to one soon but seeing that all my professors decided to give projects at the same time + finals. I have been using the scraps of my day to get out in the yard and work.. :-/
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2013, 11:27 AM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Update. So I installed the new fuel pump, cranked it. still no noise, so i decided to jump the terminals on the fuel pump relay pin #'s 30 and 87. the fuel pump came on and once this happen I smelled strong gas odor.. Look underneath my car and the fuel filter is not allowing gas go through. So I hopped on my scoots to my local Auto store and grab a new filter. Plug that bad boi in and jumped the relay again and no leaks but still it doesn't want to start...

Every now and then it jumps on and holds Idle for maybe 1.3 seconds. then dies. I noticed my o2 sensor wasn't plugged in and that I will have to extend it to make it reach its counterpart. but my previous experiences with o2 sensors failing (on my Mini the newly installed header burnt through the wires on a dyno [I'm a genius, i know] ) it should at least hold idle, or am I completely wrong for this car?

Anyone can think of whats going on? I read CPS or some other sensors could cause this? Do I need to get a new(used) ECU?
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  #11  
Old 05-02-2013, 06:35 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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yes the cps can cause this. as thats what sends the signal to the ecu to turn on the fuel pump

the o2 sensor just tells the ecu to go from an open loop fuel to closed loop once the exhaust gases get warm enough proving a "warm" engine for performance.
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2013, 07:07 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Okay, from what I've been reading is that if my CPS was bad it would be turning on at all. So i has to be something else.. I decided to go into the gas/vacuum lines which I changed all the ones with cracks or seemed to be dry rotted. Still I get nothing.. When I jump my relay I can hear the fuel pump run and I can start it once with that but it will quickly die. When I plug in the relay (which I just purchased new) I cannot hear the fuel pump turn on... This doesn't make much sense to me? Help is truly needed!
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  #13  
Old 05-20-2013, 06:29 AM
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INSANELY UNPREDICTABLE!
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Mein Auto: 1984 318i
fuel delivery issues 325e swap

The cps have been known to be intermittent. Would hurt to test it and posibly replace it.


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  #14  
Old 05-20-2013, 02:07 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Okay, I wont fight it anymore, I'll run impedance test on it and see what I read and compare it with my manual. I will probably order a new one just incase it is bad even if it isn't im sure it will need to be replaced soon any who, plus it's only 30 bones from rockauto.
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  #15  
Old 05-20-2013, 04:14 PM
arbordogg arbordogg is offline
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Wow, must comment! Downhiller is an AWESOME ally! Good luck to you Hohokam, you picked a doozy to say the least.
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  #16  
Old 05-20-2013, 06:10 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Yeah it looks like Downhiller and First Time might be right, I ran impedance check on both reference and speed sensor and I got zero Ohms, bently said I should be getting around 960 +- 90 Ohms I measured a resistor just to make sure that I was doing it right it was working for that. So I ordered two new ones for rock auto, Lets hope this does the trick
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2013, 11:02 PM
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INSANELY UNPREDICTABLE!
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fuel delivery issues 325e swap

Im quite sure you will be a happy camper! Good luck!


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  #18  
Old 05-21-2013, 04:59 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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If it still won't start maybe see if you get a spark - the usual HT quarter inch off an earth trick.
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  #19  
Old 06-04-2013, 03:36 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Okay so I got the CPSs installed both reference and speed, still nothing!! I checked my main grounds all are good. The fuel pump I know works.. but the relays wont work properly though they are getting power.. I've have both new fuel pump relay and main relay.. Though there was something weird about the main relay. I checked the one I got in the car it' number was 61.36-1391 397 Which i googled search and found out it was the power window relay for 92-96 bmw and the main relay i received from pelican parts was 12.631 729 004/01 which matches up with the relays that were put in 87 bmw e30s. I plug in the new one NOTHING.. I can hear the relay kick when I plug in the old on but nothing when i plug the new one in(frustration at a 10 ).. my question is why is my fuel pump ONLY kicking in when I jump the pins on the fuel relay???

help
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  #20  
Old 06-04-2013, 07:22 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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well, back to square one. going back to basics would tell me either its something with the ignition switch, or the ecu is bad component wise, other than that, there may be a snipped/pinched wire.
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  #21  
Old 06-04-2013, 08:57 PM
Hohokam Hohokam is offline
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Okay I will do the continuity test on the ignition, how do I test the ECU? should I just open it up and see if there is an burnt ICs? after this I'll check if there is a wire grounding or disconnected
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  #22  
Old 06-05-2013, 01:49 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Have you tested for spark yet? Have you pulled the solonoid to ign switch wire off (so you can hold the key in 'start' without killing the battery) and see if the fuel pump runs for a few seconds?: Have you pulled the fuel hose from the fuel rail to check fp function with the engine actually turning over? These are all tests I would do before going any further. Then (sorry) its back to wireing diagram and multimeter - when you are sure it is right maybe beg another ECU for a test if yours still won't work. Don't forget to clean and check all earths too. Hope you didn't pay a fortune for this lesson in auto electrics! Will be a great moment when it starts though. BTW starting fluid will ignite without a spark - pure compression like a diesel.
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  #23  
Old 06-05-2013, 06:48 AM
325Eblue 325Eblue is offline
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just curious but is it possible the relay number you got is wrong? as mentioned was for a 1987? the 87 325 E or I? there is also an I series that has a different impedence than the E series
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  #24  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:10 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Some ECU / FP relays also had diodes in them to prevent damage if you reverse connected the battery.
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  #25  
Old 06-06-2013, 06:07 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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None of the E30 ECUs did that I'm aware of. You reverse-connect it, it's pretty much scrap.
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