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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 05-11-2013, 06:50 PM
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Mein Auto: 1992 BMW 535i (manual)
Re: Coolant leak

Update-
Well I got the new water pump from autozone, don't bash on me please lol. My mother insisted on buying a water pump although I offered to buy the oem water pump, she didn't want to spend the money on the oem so she got the duralast one. My grandpa and I installed it today and it seemed to be running fine until later this evening. I went to the store and on the way back it began to run hot (good thing I live right by the store). So I came home quickly and shut her off immediately. I'm thinking that she may not have been filled up all the way with coolant, considering the fact that we drained it and filled it back up without cranking up the engine. I hope its just that there's not enough coolant in there and nothing else. I'll update you guys tomorrow when my grandpa comes and checks it out.

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1992 535i 5-Speed
Miles: 215k
Area: Douglasville, Georgia



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  #27  
Old 05-11-2013, 07:40 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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I hope you don't have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Make sure to follow the Bentley manual for bleeding air from the system. Make sure to have your heat set all the way to hot and the blower motor on high.

Once you know it is bleed properly, and if it still overheats, then you need to start looking at a head gasket problem. Does your oil look like a milkshake on either the cap or dipstick? You can do a compression test or buy a kit to check for combustion gasses in the coolant.

Good luck my friend. These in-line 6 cylinder BMW engines don't take too kindly to overheats
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Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #28  
Old 05-11-2013, 07:56 PM
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Ok thanks for the info, ill look into it tomorrow. Hope it doesn't have to do with the head These M30b35s are rare(and powerful). I would hate to have to get a new engine.
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1992 535i 5-Speed
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  #29  
Old 05-11-2013, 08:05 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionte View Post
Ok thanks for the info, ill look into it tomorrow. Hope it doesn't have to do with the head These M30b35s are rare(and powerful). I would hate to have to get a new engine.
Agreed that the M30 is a stout engine. Good used M30s may be hard to come by as well. If the head is not cracked, then a head gasket can be replaced. I have never tackled a head gasket job, but others here have.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #30  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:13 AM
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Re: Coolant leak

Well I just filled it back up with coolant because there was barely any in there, took her for a spin around the neighborhood a few times, got the revs up a bit and she began to run hot again so I had to pull back into the driveway and shut her off. I hope its not the head, could it be the thermostat?

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1992 535i 5-Speed
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  #31  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:23 AM
PlasmaE34 PlasmaE34 is offline
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Are you bleeding the rad properly?
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  #32  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:25 AM
PlasmaE34 PlasmaE34 is offline
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Can you double check to see that all your coolant hoses are properly ibserted abd tightened too ? Are yiu getting more steam than normal out your tailpipe ?
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  #33  
Old 05-13-2013, 12:22 AM
paperplane94 paperplane94 is offline
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I don't think the OP knows how to bleed the system. He is just adding coolant.

There is a sure way to bleed the cooling system on 'big' six engines.
1. After repair is made (before adding coolant) remove bleeder screw and run
a small piece of wire down the hole to dislodge any mineral deposits..
2. Replace the screw, but leave valve 'open'.
3. Open heater control valve(heater controls to MAX) and add coolant until it begins to escape from
the bleeder hole.
4. Now close bleeder screw and replace the expansion tank cap and tighten.
5. Remove the small coolant line that runs from the radiator to the
expansion tank AT THE EXPANSION tank and hold it as high as you can.
6. Now attach another hose the expansion tank in place of the one you've
just removed. BLOW (gently!!) through this hose until coolant emerges from
the small elevated radiator hose.
7. Now remove the 'blow' hose and reconnect the small radiator hose to the
expansion tank..
8. Now top off the expansion tank to the full mark.
9. Start and warm up engine and check for leaks!!
That's it. Good luck.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=908817

bleed screw on thermostat housing:


Definitely look here for bleeding instructions:
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_19.htm
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  #34  
Old 05-14-2013, 04:37 PM
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Re: Coolant leak

Bleeding it right now with my grandpa, hopefully all goes well

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1992 535i 5-Speed
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  #35  
Old 05-14-2013, 04:49 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionte View Post
Bleeding it right now with my grandpa, hopefully all goes well

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__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #36  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:23 PM
PlasmaE34 PlasmaE34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionte View Post
Bleeding it right now with my grandpa, hopefully all goes well

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It will, don't worry. These engines are hardy, and you caught your overheat fairly quickly.
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  #37  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:28 PM
PlasmaE34 PlasmaE34 is offline
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Please double check that all hose fittings are properly tightened. Make sure hoses are shoved in correctly as well as being tightened good. Just double check everything that you had to do for the water pump.
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  #38  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:34 PM
PlasmaE34 PlasmaE34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paperplane94 View Post
I don't think the OP knows how to bleed the system. He is just adding coolant.

There is a sure way to bleed the cooling system on 'big' six engines.
1. After repair is made (before adding coolant) remove bleeder screw and run
a small piece of wire down the hole to dislodge any mineral deposits..
2. Replace the screw, but leave valve 'open'.
3. Open heater control valve(heater controls to MAX) and add coolant until it begins to escape from
the bleeder hole.
4. Now close bleeder screw and replace the expansion tank cap and tighten.
5. Remove the small coolant line that runs from the radiator to the
expansion tank AT THE EXPANSION tank and hold it as high as you can.
6. Now attach another hose the expansion tank in place of the one you've
just removed. BLOW (gently!!) through this hose until coolant emerges from
the small elevated radiator hose.
7. Now remove the 'blow' hose and reconnect the small radiator hose to the
expansion tank..
8. Now top off the expansion tank to the full mark.
9. Start and warm up engine and check for leaks!!
That's it. Good luck.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=908817

bleed screw on thermostat housing:


Definitely look here for bleeding instructions:
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_19.htm
I have to say that those at the most complicated set of bleeding instructions I've read. I don't think it was designed that way. That said, its clearly a bulletproof method. I've read about other methods involving vacuum pumps as well.

The bentley manual asks one to check coolant levels some time after the first bleed, and after a drive, to compensate for air not being fully purged during normal bleeding using normal methods, the first time round.
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  #39  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:58 PM
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Re: Coolant leak

Well I would like to thank you guys for the help(My grandad already knew what the problem was before I even told him lol). It was a success. We bled out all of the air and she keeps her temperature steady now and runs fine.

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  #40  
Old 05-15-2013, 06:57 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Glad you got it sorted out. I figured the system just needed to be bled properly. I don't know that I have ever owned a brand of car that is more finicky to purge the trapped air from.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #41  
Old 05-15-2013, 09:04 AM
PlasmaE34 PlasmaE34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Glad you got it sorted out. I figured the system just needed to be bled properly. I don't know that I have ever owned a brand of car that is more finicky to purge the trapped air from.

No one who followed the Bmanual's simple instructions would have any trouble bleeding the air from any E34 engine. Its just that so few people have the patience to do so, wanting to 'get the job over with'.

With all due respect, claiming that the engine's are finicky re purging air shifts the fault away from the driver, where it belongs..

If you are doing major cooling system work (replacing water pumps, radiators, thermostats, aux pumps and heater valves, major cooling system hoses), you're going to introduce alot of air into the system. After tightening everything up, do a cold bleed, then a warm bleed by starting the engine and bleeding once it has reached optemp, then do a final cold bleed a day later, with driving in between.

With bleeding for other reasons, you can stop at either step1, or do step1, skip step 2 and do step 3.

All bleeding needs to be done with cabin heat set to high, with the heater valve unit plugged in and its fuses etc confirmed to be fine. And these procedures will work provided the rest of your cooling system is functioning normally.
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  #42  
Old 05-16-2013, 05:06 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaE34 View Post
No one who followed the Bmanual's simple instructions would have any trouble bleeding the air from any E34 engine. Its just that so few people have the patience to do so, wanting to 'get the job over with'.

With all due respect, claiming that the engine's are finicky re purging air shifts the fault away from the driver, where it belongs..

If you are doing major cooling system work (replacing water pumps, radiators, thermostats, aux pumps and heater valves, major cooling system hoses), you're going to introduce alot of air into the system. After tightening everything up, do a cold bleed, then a warm bleed by starting the engine and bleeding once it has reached optemp, then do a final cold bleed a day later, with driving in between.

With bleeding for other reasons, you can stop at either step1, or do step1, skip step 2 and do step 3.

All bleeding needs to be done with cabin heat set to high, with the heater valve unit plugged in and its fuses etc confirmed to be fine. And these procedures will work provided the rest of your cooling system is functioning normally.

BOBBY, PLEASE GO AWAY

There is NOTHING helpful in your post. These cars DO in fact require more attention when bleeding out the cooling system. I have had a lot of vehicles and none of them require as much attention as BMW's.

Now you want to blame the 16 yr old kid trying to learn, seriously? Worse yet you feel the need to chastise a knowledgable member because you somehow disagree, based on your what, ownership of one car, ever, and 2-3 years of driving?

You are a serious detriment to this forum, I am once again amazed that they continue to allow your aliases to exist here and cause problems.

Can't you find another hobby bobby, on a different website?
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  #43  
Old 12-19-2013, 06:56 AM
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Re: Coolant leak

As bad as it sounds guys, I have yet another coolant leak :sly: , I can't pin point it at the moment because I am not driving much now. It seems to leave a small wet spot under the car when it sits and I've had to refill about two times now. Its a very slow leak and is still drivable but I would like to avoid driving it for now. When I get a chance to look at ill try to post pictures.

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