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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:13 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 545i
schpenxel's 2004 545i issues & repairs log

As most of you know, I've done quite a bit of DIY'ing on my car (2004 545i), so I've decided to use this thread to keep up with what I do in the future and link to some of the threads of the past. Most of the dates listed below are when I ordered the parts, not necessarily when I did the work, since I didn't really keep records of that.

For anyone looking at buying one of these fine over engineered automobiles, keep in mind that I'm doing all the work myself and it's still costing me this much to keep it going. If you can't do the work yourself, these prices will shoot up exponentially (although mine does have quite a few miles on it, none of these repairs seem out of the ordinary for the 545i world as far as I have been able to tell, except maybe the AC compressor one). It has averaged over $300 in parts PER MONTH since I have owned it. Even with that, I got such a great price on it that I can't complain.

-9/29/2012: Purchased the 2004 545i at approximately 178K miles

-10/1/2013: First up was to change transmission fluid / pan. Parts were ordered on 10/1/2012, so I am assuming I changed it sometime that month. $287.28

-10/28/2013: Next up was the solenoids and I changed another 6 or 7 quarts of fluid while I was at it. Parts were ordered 10/8/2012, but I waited a while before changing them. 10/28/2012 I posted the video of the work, so I assume it was done that same weekend. This one cost me $625.80

Post:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&postcount=453

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=zwjvxRZyvWM

-12/1/2012: Next I decided to go ahead and replace all the belts, pulley's, idlers, tensioners, etc. While I was at it I replaced the rubber strip that goes around the front and rear windshield (old ones were disintegrating..). All as preventative maintenance. $316.56

-1/25/2013: Replaced expansion tank, thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley again (ordered just in case I broke it getting it apart..), expansion tank cap/sensor and water temperature sensor. All as preventative maintenance except expansion tank cap which had had started to fall apart where the o-rings go. $287.27 + cost of the water pump (about $73 from rock auto)

-2/28/2013: Replaced AC compressor and planned on replacing all the o-rings, etc. that I touched. Unfortunately forgot to bring the box with me that had all the o-rings in it, so I used the old ones. So far so good. I installed a used AC compressor, vacuumed the system and filled it back up (I'm a little under filled right now actually). This was to fix a "death rattle" that the old one was making. I have read that if you don't replace the compressor before it goes boom, you're looking at a massive job to get the AC system cleaned back out again. $106.06 for the whole order, but it had some other things in the order for a CCC retrofit I'm working on. The AC compressor was another $250.

Thread with everything I have on this repair:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...877&highlight=

-3/22/2013: Valley coolant pipe. Thread below tells the tale. Entire cost, $703.78 for parts + $300 for rental car for two weeks (waiting on parts)

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...294&highlight=

-4/28/2013: 192K miles. Today I received an "alternator malfunction" message intermittently. $325 for alternator + overnight shipping (which ended up being unnecessary)

-5/2/2013: "Increased emissions" error. P0492 code. Not sure what's going on here yet. Code hasn't came back since clearing it.

Last edited by schpenxel; 01-28-2014 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Fixing typos
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:17 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 545i
And for the most recent:

-4/28/2013: 192K miles. Today I received an "alternator malfunction" message intermittently. It seemed that it only came up at idle at first, then went away once I got back moving so I ignored it for a while. Unfortunately about 30 minutes from home it finally came on and stayed on, so I turned off the lights, heater, seat warmers, etc. and made it home without running the battery dead. I was at 11.4 volts when I got home with the car off, 11.0 with it running. Parts are ordered and should be here Tuesday. I ordered a remanufactured one from Rock Auto. The alternator, with overnight shipping, came out to $327 ($65 core will be refunded later)

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-28-2013 at 01:03 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2013, 04:22 PM
johnnydee johnnydee is offline
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Wow thanks for the update!
I don't know if this scared me off the 545i to the 550 or not!
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2013, 04:32 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnydee View Post
Wow thanks for the update!
I don't know if this scared me off the 545i to the 550 or not!
lol, I was thinking the same before I bought this thing! I really just need to break down and buy a cheap DD.

(also, I didn't mention the $500 on tires..)

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-28-2013 at 04:46 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2013, 04:54 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
And for the most recent:

-4/28/2013: 192K miles. Today I received an "alternator malfunction" message intermittently. It seemed that it only came up at idle at first, then went away once I got back moving so I ignored it for a while. Unfortunately about 30 minutes from home it finally came on and stayed on, so I turned off the lights, heater, seat warmers, etc. and made it home without running the battery dead. I was at 11.4 volts when I got home with the car off, 11.0 with it running. Parts are ordered and should be here Tuesday. I ordered a remanufactured one from Rock Auto. The alternator, with overnight shipping, came out to $327 ($65 core will be refunded later)
I used a new Valeo last year ($283) - the best price on a new Valeo unit I saw now is $329 (free shipping). I have read mixed reviews on rebuilt units - depends upon who rebuilds them.
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2013, 05:17 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Where were you able to find that price?
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2013, 05:31 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Actually I just noticed the one I ordered was 150amp, while BMW calls for a 180amp version. I'm not sure if it truly matters or not, but if I can spend basically the same amount of money and get a new 180amp model, I am very interested.

---------------

update: scratch that about the 150 amp one. I did actually order a 180 amp version. I apparently ordered the last one they had , so that particular product no longer showed up when you search for alternators for this vehicle, thus I couldn't find it again..

blond moment!

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-28-2013 at 05:42 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:48 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Alternator shipped today. Looks like it won't be too bad to change. Just pull battery cable, intake/airbox, radiator fan & belt basically. Then it's 2 bolts to get the alternator off. I'm sure it's tighter than it looks in the manual, though (that's what she said..?)
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:13 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Alternator shipped today. Looks like it won't be too bad to change. Just pull battery cable, intake/airbox, radiator fan & belt basically. Then it's 2 bolts to get the alternator off. I'm sure it's tighter than it looks in the manual, though (that's what she said..?)
LOL, it definitely is tight getting it out, lots of funky angles needed to avoid smashing the fins on the radiator. Taking i tout from below is not really an option if you have sports pkg, the power steering lines running down there make it impossible - unless you remove them too, but that is more hassle than it's worth. Overall, you should be done with it in less than an hour.
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  #10  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:18 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjinca View Post
LOL, it definitely is tight getting it out, lots of funky angles needed to avoid smashing the fins on the radiator. Taking i tout from below is not really an option if you have sports pkg, the power steering lines running down there make it impossible - unless you remove them too, but that is more hassle than it's worth. Overall, you should be done with it in less than an hour.
Sounds good!

Currently I'm charging the battery every night and just driving without a working alternator. I leave all accessories off as much as I can. I'm almost home so hopefully this keeps working without frying anything.

I almost bought just a regulator since I'm almost sure that's what failed, but decided it wasn't worth the potential hassle
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:21 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Sounds good!

Currently I'm charging the battery every night and just driving without a working alternator. I leave all accessories off as much as I can. I'm almost home so hopefully this keeps working without frying anything.

I almost bought just a regulator since I'm almost sure that's what failed, but decided it wasn't worth the potential hassle
You might want to consider getting the 180 AMP alternator, since the 150 amp one you ordered will probably throw error codes since the charging system will "think" something is wrong when it isn't. But as long as the battery is charging correctly that is something that can wait.
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[B]2008 550 - Carbon Black/Black - M-sport, Cold Weather, Premium, NAV, Comfort Access, Logic 7 (LOADED, every option except night vision)

Previous 3 cars (the 550 is my 38th car):
2005 530i - Prem, Sport, NAV
2006 Jeep SRT-8
2003 Infiniti G35 coupe
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:25 PM
jim165 jim165 is offline
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You know, this thread may sound bad or may make the 545/550 look like a maintenance nightmare, but I bet most of the parts schpenxel's replacing were original parts on the car. That means, this car's done well to have made it to 178K on those parts, although it seems like its totally crapping the bed all at one time. Once everything's sorted, I bet you can get another 100K miles out of her easy! Gives me hope...
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Last edited by jim165; 04-29-2013 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:30 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim165 View Post
You know, this thread may sound bad or may make the 545/550 look like a maintenance nightmare, but I bet most of the parts schpenxel's replacing were original parts on the car. That means, this car's done well to have made it to 178K on those parts, although it seems like its totally crapping the bed all at one time. Once everything's sorted, I bet you can get another 100K miles out of her easy! Gives me hope...
Exactly, I completely agree. It sounds like a lot, but considering the mileage, it's to be expected. And all the work he has put in almost guarantees him a reliable car for another 100-150k miles. Sure encourages me, my 550 barely ticked over 23k miles a week ago
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Previous 3 cars (the 550 is my 38th car):
2005 530i - Prem, Sport, NAV
2006 Jeep SRT-8
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  #14  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:41 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjinca View Post
You might want to consider getting the 180 AMP alternator, since the 150 amp one you ordered will probably throw error codes since the charging system will "think" something is wrong when it isn't. But as long as the battery is charging correctly that is something that can wait.
It turns out I actually did get the 180 amp version. When I went back on the site to make sure, the only one it showed near the price I paid was the 150 amp version, but that was only because I bought the last of the 180 amp ones that were around that price, so it was no longer listed on the site at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim165 View Post
You know, this thread may sound bad or may make the 545/550 look like a maintenance nightmare, but I bet most of the parts schpenxel's replacing were original parts on the car. That means, this car's done well to have made it to 178K on those parts, although it seems like its totally crapping the bed all at one time. Once everything's sorted, I bet you can get another 100K miles out of her easy! Gives me hope...
True. I wish I knew what was original and what wasn't, but I KNOW that the car actually had the original transmission fluid in it. I also highly doubt the coolant pipe had ever been replaced. Water pump looked old as well. I HOPE the expansion tank wasn't original but who knows.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjinca View Post
Exactly, I completely agree. It sounds like a lot, but considering the mileage, it's to be expected. And all the work he has put in almost guarantees him a reliable car for another 100-150k miles. Sure encourages me, my 550 barely ticked over 23k miles a week ago
I sure hope so.

The only things left that really scare me are the timing chain and timing chain guides, transmission clutch packs and bands. Not because they're common failures or anything, just because any of those failing would be a mess to fix, if it would even worth it at all

edit: Also, when you add up what I paid for the car, and what I've spent in parts so far, it's close to what "private party" value is for it in good condition, so I can't really complain.

Last edited by schpenxel; 04-29-2013 at 02:43 PM.
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  #15  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:59 PM
pjinca pjinca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
I sure hope so.

The only things left that really scare me are the timing chain and timing chain guides, transmission clutch packs and bands. Not because they're common failures or anything, just because any of those failing would be a mess to fix, if it would even worth it at all

edit: Also, when you add up what I paid for the car, and what I've spent in parts so far, it's close to what "private party" value is for it in good condition, so I can't really complain.
Considering the trans fluid is original, which means it's not worth replacing, probably do more harm than good. I'd consider a rebuilt tranny if the price wasn't too much. It's easier than worrying about the clutch packs and bands.
As for the timing chain and guides, luckily my car will be long gone by the time I would need to worry about that. LOL, don't even know how long they last in our cars.
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2005 530i - Prem, Sport, NAV
2006 Jeep SRT-8
2003 Infiniti G35 coupe
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  #16  
Old 04-29-2013, 03:03 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjinca View Post
Considering the trans fluid is original, which means it's not worth replacing, probably do more harm than good. I'd consider a rebuilt tranny if the price wasn't too much. It's easier than worrying about the clutch packs and bands.
As for the timing chain and guides, luckily my car will be long gone by the time I would need to worry about that. LOL, don't even know how long they last in our cars.
It WAS the original, not is
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:08 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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-5/2/2012 - "Increased emissions" error. P0492 code. I haven't swapped the alternator yet (keeps raining every afternoon). I knew I should have cleaned out the air injection system while I had the intake off. Oh well. I'll figure something out after I get the alternator swapped out.
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2013, 08:54 PM
Damon54 Damon54 is online now
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Part # for a new Valeo Alternator unit is 31-00179-ON

The ON means new as rebuilds use the same # designation with an AR prefix, OR means rebuilt by an OEM.

Always search by aftermarket part # for best pricing!

Reman Bosch AL9357X can be had for $205 or so.

Last edited by Damon54; 05-02-2013 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:24 PM
Damon54 Damon54 is online now
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Most impressive about Tim's labors, at least to me, is that 2 of his procedures could have easily been interpreted as the death nil for most owners of high mileage 545's.

I'm referring to his valley cooling pipe leak fix & his tranny solenoids swap.
Each could have easily been passed on to unknowledgeable owners as $6000 + cost procedures. Can guarantee that lots of owners walked away from purchasing a replacement tranny & doing
the manifold fix when told of the cost.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:10 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon54 View Post
Part # for a new Valeo Alternator unit is 31-00179-ON

The ON means new as rebuilds use the same # designation with an AR prefix, OR means rebuilt by an OEM.

Always search by aftermarket part # for best pricing!

Reman Bosch AL9357X can be had for $205 or so.
Thanks, will do in the future. I paid around $200, but then had to pay $65 core and $75 overnight shipping (which ended up being a waste since the weather was so nasty all week)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon54 View Post
Most impressive about Tim's labors, at least to me, is that 2 of his procedures could have easily been interpreted as the death nil for most owners of high mileage 545's.

I'm referring to his valley cooling pipe leak fix & his tranny solenoids swap.
Each could have easily been passed on to unknowledgeable owners as $6000 + cost procedures. Can guarantee that lots of owners walked away from purchasing a replacement tranny & doing
the manifold fix when told of the cost.
Who is Tim? LOL

Indeed though. I was scared crapless when the transmission problems started.. I was down to either try the solenoids or buy a second cheapo car while I decided what to do with this thing. At best I would have replaced the transmission with a used one. I'd hate to even have to try that without a lift

Last edited by schpenxel; 05-03-2013 at 05:12 AM.
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  #21  
Old 05-03-2013, 05:37 AM
Damon54 Damon54 is online now
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I'd be curious to know if a $5.00 brush kit & or a $30 dollar voltage regulator makes your existing alternator operational.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:46 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon54 View Post
I'd be curious to know if a $5.00 brush kit & or a $30 dollar voltage regulator makes your existing alternator operational.
I'm 99% sure it would. I think it's the regulator.

I just don't feel like pulling it apart again if I'm wrong. And I didn't know you could replace just the regulator until after I had ordered the full alternator so I said screw it
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  #23  
Old 05-03-2013, 12:01 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
I'm 99% sure it would. I think it's the regulator.

I just don't feel like pulling it apart again if I'm wrong. And I didn't know you could replace just the regulator until after I had ordered the full alternator so I said screw it
+1
I too considered replacing just the regulator on mine as I was pumping 17V on start up which is definitely the voltage regulator.

But I worked in electrical manufacturing a long time ago and was around a lot of wound coils. The varnish on the coil wire can start to break down under heat or over-current/over-voltage and short turn-to turn, changing the electrical characteristics of the coil and in turn the alternator output.

Often coils in rebuilt alternators are not re-wound or replaced. Often bearings are not replaced in alternators. Sometimes just brushes and sometimes brushes and voltage regulators.

I compared rebuilt units to a brand new OE Valeo 180 amp unit at $283 delivered, and I didn't see that the small savings was worth the risk of using a rebuilt unit with an old coil or worn bearings. If I was close to selling it I would have replaced the voltage regulator myself, bench tested it and slapped it back in, but I plan on keeping the beast.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:07 PM
Damon54 Damon54 is online now
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Can you tell us who had that excellent price on a new Valeo?

The people selling it on EBay have it for $10.00 less on their site. $292ish.
BuyAutoParts.com

Last edited by Damon54; 05-03-2013 at 12:24 PM.
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  #25  
Old 05-03-2013, 12:08 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
+1
I too considered replacing just the regulator on mine as I was pumping 17V on start up which is definitely the voltage regulator.

But I worked in electrical manufacturing a long time ago and was around a lot of wound coils. The varnish on the coil wire can start to break down under heat or over-current/over-voltage and short turn-to turn, changing the electrical characteristics of the coil and in turn the alternator output.

Often coils in rebuilt alternators are not re-wound or replaced. Often bearings are not replaced in alternators. Sometimes just brushes and sometimes brushes and voltage regulators.

I compared rebuilt units to a brand new OE Valeo 180 amp unit at $283 delivered, and I didn't see that the small savings was worth the risk of using a rebuilt unit with an old coil or worn bearings. If I was close to selling it I would have replaced the voltage regulator myself, bench tested it and slapped it back in, but I plan on keeping the beast.
Where'd you find it for that price? I haven't been able to find a new one that cheap so I ended up (for better or worse) with a rebuilt one
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