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X5 E53 (1999 - 2006)
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  #1  
Old 08-12-2016, 02:46 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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BMW X5 4.4L overheats after....

Replaced radiator fluid and found thermostat bad, replaced it. It still overheats. Any ideas here I can look?
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  #2  
Old 08-12-2016, 02:51 PM
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oceandiver86 oceandiver86 is offline
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did you bleed the system properly?
did it overheat before you changed the thermostat?

check for leaks in the system
check, waterpump, fans, ...etc
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  #3  
Old 08-12-2016, 02:55 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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It did it before I replaced the thermostat.

How do I bleed the system properly?
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  #4  
Old 08-12-2016, 03:03 PM
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oceandiver86 oceandiver86 is offline
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for bleeding:

there are many tutorials around!

did you use a OEM Thermostat?
how did the old coolant look like?
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  #5  
Old 08-12-2016, 03:03 PM
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oceandiver86 oceandiver86 is offline
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for bleeding:

there are many tutorials around!

did you use a OEM Thermostat?
how did the old coolant look like?
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2016, 05:55 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oceandiver86 View Post
for bleeding:

there are many tutorials around!

did you use a OEM Thermostat?
how did the old coolant look like?

I used an OEM part and saw the video link and performed the bleeding. The fluid (before I replaced the thermostat) was replaced at a lube shop ($90). And the fluid drained didn't look like 50/50, but watery. So it had a complete transfusion of radiator fluid. And it still over heated. But gave me hope that it wasn't the water pump..... I think.

So, I have it on an incline and cooling down. I'll remove the cap and fill it up again and repeat the process.

Also for information: when driving and starts to overheat, if I turn up the heat and blower, that will bring it back down to normal.

Guidance please?

Last edited by Weatherman1; 08-12-2016 at 08:42 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-13-2016, 07:23 AM
gunyvw gunyvw is offline
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check radiator fan and radiator.
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  #8  
Old 08-13-2016, 01:23 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Thanks for the help!

Radiator and radiator fan is next.

The fan on the outside of the radiator (that pushes air into the radiator)-
The fan works when the air condition is on.

The fan blades that are on the inside does run and in the proper direction.

How would I check if the radiator is working?

So in retrospect: Driving down the road WITH the blower and heater (at 90 degrees), the gauge pegged all the way to the right and I pulled off the road. Then the needle went to middle almost as quick as it went to hot. (computer indicator on dashboard also came on - "Engine Coolant".
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  #9  
Old 08-13-2016, 01:49 PM
gunyvw gunyvw is offline
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you ARE having symptoms of actually overheating i assume
... power loss, burning smells etc
if not may be the sensor itself.

make sure the system IS holding water.
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  #10  
Old 08-13-2016, 02:24 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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oceandiver86 - thanks for the video.

(Back story): Visited a cash lot of used cars and did a test drive - seemed fine.
Checked all fluid levels.. found no oil on dipstick and oil residue underneath. Also, radiator reservoir was bone dry. So I added 2 qt. of oil (100% synthetic) and 1/2 gallon of fluid to the reservoir and started it up. White and gray smoke blew out the tailpipe and lots of it.

Went home and did my research to see cause and possible fixes and looked at a CCV issue and possibly adding K Seal to see if the head gasket issue could be minimized or resolved.

Error codes were : misfire of all cylinders, coils malfunctioning and both O2 sensors needing replacement. I cleared the codes and only 2 show up P0036 & P0492. So I have a vacuum issue and Heat Control circuit problem.

Went back the next day and asked to take the car to the oil lube shop next door to add check the car over (by 3rd party). White smoke was continued to come out of the tailpipe.

Drained the oil to see if there was any antifreeze in it - it looked good, but very low. So we added 8.5 qt. of full synthetic oil to make sure it read correctly on the dip stick.

While car is heating up, we added the K Seal. Within 5 minutes, the white smoke stopped. Which some of the forums indicated would happen at times. (this was a good sign)

So, armed with what I thought was a workable solution, I purchased the vehicle for $2000. (145,000 miles)

Drove off the lot and put gas in and not more than a mile away, the overheating started.

Drove back to the lube shop and did a complete transfusion of radiator fluid. ($90)
Did a check and focus the temperature sensor may be bad and would have to get the part the next day). So I drove it home (25 miles away) with heater on high and at 90 degrees. It only overheated if I was behind a semi where wind was restricted to the front of the car. Once I was in clean, unobstructed air, the temp went back to normal.

As Paul Harvey would say "And now you know the rest of the story".

------------------
So taking your tutorial.......

I followed the tutorial and here's what happens: (by the way, how much antifreeze does this thing take???)

Starting with cold engine, topping off fluid and squeezing all tubes I can reach to purge any air bubbles and leaving radiator cap off.

Turn heat on to 90 degrees and fan at 50% - start engine.

Small stream of fluid feeds into the radiator reservoir and occasionally spits out air.
This continues through the 10-15 minutes and I top off the fluid as needed using a 50/50 blend.
(is there a certain kind of fluid to use or will any 'off-the-shelf' 50/50 blend work?)

Then the fluid turns to a frothy mix and starts to bubble over and then solid fluid pours out before it settles down and goes back into the reservoir. I tap the stick to make sure it doesn't stick (and the stick actually will show that theres too much fluid before it goes down a little).

I'm working on what tubes I have access to, squeezing, working out any additional bubbles.

Engine temp gauge is solid in the center the whole time (once it warms up)

--- Driving test ----
I used to drove about a mile before it starts to show signs of overheating.
Yesterday it was about 2.5 miles.
Now it takes about 5 miles before the needle starts to climb to the 3/4 mark.
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  #11  
Old 08-13-2016, 02:49 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Gunyvw,

"you ARE having symptoms of actually overheating i assume
... power loss, burning smells etc
if not may be the sensor itself.

make sure the system IS holding water."

The fluid isn't leaking out anywhere but will spray out the top when it overheats.

no power loss and any smells is coming from the antifreeze.

So, since I replaced the thermostat.... What is the 'sensor' you're referring to?
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  #12  
Old 08-13-2016, 09:40 PM
gunyvw gunyvw is offline
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sounds like it's head gasket a blown engine.
i dont know k seal if it is blown i dont think the k seal is working or it may have obstructed the radiator... try replacing it with 'blue devil' in the cooling system. works like a champ.
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Last edited by gunyvw; 08-13-2016 at 09:43 PM.
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2016, 12:26 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Thanks for the lead. Used a few products for head gasket leak.

Is there another sensor that is in the loop to indicate engine temp besides the thermostat?

The engine coolant temp gauge must give off false readings as it slowly creeps to hot then drops back to normal a quickly several times, while driving.
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  #14  
Old 08-14-2016, 10:19 PM
gunyvw gunyvw is offline
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from behind the front passenger side headlight and down on the lower part of the radiator hose there is one. dont know if it's for the fan or what.

the sensor could have gotten caked with the sealant, yep.
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Last edited by gunyvw; 08-14-2016 at 10:21 PM.
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  #15  
Old 08-15-2016, 05:27 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Or the K seal isn't working anymore and you still have a head gasket problem. You will need to buy a kit that can detect exhaust gas in the cooling system to determine if the head gasket problem is still there.
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  #16  
Old 08-15-2016, 06:35 AM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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You wouldn't happen to have a picture I could compare to what I'm looking for, would you?
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  #17  
Old 08-15-2016, 06:36 AM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Thank you for the tip. What's the name of the kit and where would it be available, cost?
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  #18  
Old 08-18-2016, 08:15 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Here's a video on using the kit



Kit can be purchased on Amazon.

Last edited by upallnight; 08-18-2016 at 08:23 AM. Reason: double post
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  #19  
Old 08-18-2016, 08:17 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Here's a video on using the kit



Kit can be purchased on Amazon.

You already did the cheap fix with K-seal, don't try another cheap fix. Fix it right ot just sell the car.
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  #20  
Old 08-18-2016, 01:06 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Thanks for the video tip.... Now get this!

Hello everyone who has helped provide information.

An ABS Sensor question:

My speedometer was;t working and had ABS lights on, which lead me to believe the ABS speed sensor was bad (left rear wheel). So I purchased a new sensor and installed it today.

The dashboard lights went out, and when I test drive it, i hear some odd noises (like a clunking) and the x5 acts as if brakes are being applied and I have very little movement forward when i press on the gas pedal. Once I let off, the X5 will coast just fine.

Before the replacement of the speed sensor, the car drove fine, just didn't have any speed indicator and ABS lights were on.

Help!
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  #21  
Old 08-18-2016, 06:58 PM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Did you compare the old wheel sensor with the new sensor? Did you scan the X to determine why you had the lights on or are we just making an educated guess?
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2016, 08:04 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Did you compare the old wheel sensor with the new sensor? Did you scan the X to determine why you had the lights on or are we just making an educated guess?
I did scan, bit no codes came up. And the for the old sensor, it all came out very easily...except for the part that went into the wheel. Could't get it out no matter what I did - so I extracted it like a cavity and got it out in pieces. Interestingly, the new sensor was a bit smaller in circumference (but the lights went out), so I figured it was okay. Until I drove it.

So after much thought, I disconnected it from the other end (blue connector) and it drives fine (except foe the lights that are on the dash. I'm guessing I was shipped the wrong part?
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2016, 08:43 PM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weatherman1 View Post
I did scan, bit no codes came up. And the for the old sensor, it all came out very easily...except for the part that went into the wheel. Could't get it out no matter what I did - so I extracted it like a cavity and got it out in pieces. Interestingly, the new sensor was a bit smaller in circumference (but the lights went out), so I figured it was okay. Until I drove it.

So after much thought, I disconnected it from the other end (blue connector) and it drives fine (except foe the lights that are on the dash. I'm guessing I was shipped the wrong part?
If you used a generic scanner or got it scanned at an auto part store, those type of scanners does not read the abs module or dsc module. You need to get it scanned with a BMW specific scanner.

Most likely you have the wrong sensor.

Last edited by upallnight; 08-18-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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  #24  
Old 08-18-2016, 08:48 PM
Weatherman1 Weatherman1 is offline
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We'll find out tomorrow as I'm taking it ion to have it looked over.

You all are awesome on this thread, thanks!
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  #25  
Old 08-18-2016, 09:16 PM
gunyvw gunyvw is offline
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it's most likely blown
with an internal leak into the combustion chamber
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