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F30 / F31 / F32 / F33 (2012 - current)
The sixth generation 3 series, chassis code F30. 2013 model year 328i and 335i sedans now in production. Read the F30 frequently asked question thread for all your basic question and dive into all the details in the ultimate F30 information thread.

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  #26  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:28 AM
NewToCarBuying NewToCarBuying is offline
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It honestly depends i mean my mom's X5,

had a nail within the first 2k miles. We went to discount tire and they said they can't repair it because its on the sidewall or whatever.

We're at 26k miles right now with that same tire with the same nail, no pressure drops, no problems.

I feel BMW run flats are very safe and the tire package is not necessary
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  #27  
Old 05-13-2013, 10:07 AM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pelo911 View Post
the tires i have: Continental ssr - they look like rain tire (not sure)

do you have idea what to do?
if i must replace the tire , can i buy regular tire ? not Run flat tire
what brand and model i should buy?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pelo911 View Post
move on , already fixed the tire for 20$

i asked what brand and model of tires to replace my winter tires
They are not winter tires. Continental ContiSportContact 5 SSR are a Max Performance Summer tire, and the Continental ContiProContact SSR are a Grand Touring All Season. Tread pattern has little to do with what is called a summer or rain tire. You have been given many opportunities do ascertain these facts for yourself by the continuous reference to tirerack.com. Note that you have never given a complete description of the tires' sidewall and ratings, including whether it has M+S (all-season marking) on it.

If you want a non-RFT (and my personal preference is to stay with RFT, for their obvious safety benefits), you have been offered (and accepted) that the Michelin Pilot Super Sport is the current best choice. If staying with the RFT, the Pilot Sport 2 ZP is best IMO.

You would get better results on this forum (and others) if 1) you ask simple and direct questions, 2) use appropriate punctuation, 3) give complete information (note type of tire), 4) not be a pisser.

Last edited by floydarogers; 05-13-2013 at 03:11 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #28  
Old 05-13-2013, 02:19 PM
sr5959 sr5959 is offline
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Originally Posted by ehchan View Post
My mom had this problem... Discount tire / America tire has a list of do not repair tires and the conti ssr run flat is on it... Another shop should be able to repair it though.



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Don't think this is true, I have ContiProContact SSR 17s on mine, had a puncture/slow leak about 5k miles ago Discount Tire repaired it for free, and it's been fine since.
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  #29  
Old 05-13-2013, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
They are not winter tires. Continental ContiSportContact 5 SSR are a Max Performance Summer tire, and the Continental ContiProContact SSR are a Grand Touring All Season. Tread pattern has little to do with what is called a summer or rain tire. You have been given many opportunities do ascertain these facts for yourself by the continuous reference to tirerack.com. Note that you have never given a complete description of the tires' sidewall and ratings, including whether it has M+S (all-season marking) on it.

If you want a non-RFT (and my personal preference is to stay with RFT, for their obvious safety benefits), you have been offered (and accepted) that the Michelin Pilot Super Sport is the current best choice. If staying with the RFT, the Pilot Sport 2 ZP is best IMO.

You would get better results on this forum (and others) if 1) you ask simple and direct questions, 2) use appropriate punctuation, 3) give complete information (note type of tire), 4) not be a pisser.
Pilot Sport 2 ZP , i search on Tirerack
didn't find them in the size i need 225/45/18

why do you think RFT are safer ?

sorry about my bad English
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  #30  
Old 05-13-2013, 09:43 PM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Originally Posted by pelo911 View Post
Pilot Sport 2 ZP , i search on Tirerack
didn't find them in the size i need 225/45/18

why do you think RFT are safer ?

sorry about my bad English
Don't worry about your english, my writing is currently hampered by being on Oxycodone after an operation...

(Trying to think clearly for a minute
1) the RFT versus Go-Flat debate has had many threads (both here, and in the E9x forums). There are many diatribes against RFT, due to the poor performance of the 1st generation Bridgestones back in 2006/2007. We're now on the 3rd generation and things are greatly improved. Also improved is the F30 suspension - they also went to a tire slightly lower in profile than the E9x had, which softened the ride. My personal preference is to save the weight and cost of a spare or mobility kit (you have to buy a jack, too!) and drive them the way BMW intended. The subject is too complex and opinionated for any more than this; go Search out the threads and read up on the subject.
2) You think the current tires are not "good" enough. Don't know why you think that. You bought an AWD car: BMW builds AWD cars for their performance in bad weather, but NOT FOR ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE like Audi/Porsche and others. Perhaps you didn't understand that about BMW's philosophy, but that's the way it is, and high performance all-seasons are most appropriate for that philosophy. You can change them for the max performance summer Conti pretty easily. The difference between them and the Michelin PS2 is quite small and I doubt you would notice any difference.
3) You want more power. Well, I'm betting that pretty much anyone (including me once I get un-drugged) would be able to beat you on a track that requires turning and braking. The cheapest performance mod is to actually learn to become a better driver: there are many tracks with schools, and BMWCCA also offers them - join and enjoy. They type of performance you want is for city drags (I'm guessing); most of us here are not terribly interested as it's of very limited utility. E90post.com has had many more tuner guys than bimmerfest - try over there (don't forget that the E9x has the same engines that the F30 does - N55 & N54.
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  #31  
Old 05-13-2013, 10:51 PM
pelo911 pelo911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
Don't worry about your english, my writing is currently hampered by being on Oxycodone after an operation...

(Trying to think clearly for a minute
1) the RFT versus Go-Flat debate has had many threads (both here, and in the E9x forums). There are many diatribes against RFT, due to the poor performance of the 1st generation Bridgestones back in 2006/2007. We're now on the 3rd generation and things are greatly improved. Also improved is the F30 suspension - they also went to a tire slightly lower in profile than the E9x had, which softened the ride. My personal preference is to save the weight and cost of a spare or mobility kit (you have to buy a jack, too!) and drive them the way BMW intended. The subject is too complex and opinionated for any more than this; go Search out the threads and read up on the subject.
2) You think the current tires are not "good" enough. Don't know why you think that. You bought an AWD car: BMW builds AWD cars for their performance in bad weather, but NOT FOR ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE like Audi/Porsche and others. Perhaps you didn't understand that about BMW's philosophy, but that's the way it is, and high performance all-seasons are most appropriate for that philosophy. You can change them for the max performance summer Conti pretty easily. The difference between them and the Michelin PS2 is quite small and I doubt you would notice any difference.
3) You want more power. Well, I'm betting that pretty much anyone (including me once I get un-drugged) would be able to beat you on a track that requires turning and braking. The cheapest performance mod is to actually learn to become a better driver: there are many tracks with schools, and BMWCCA also offers them - join and enjoy. They type of performance you want is for city drags (I'm guessing); most of us here are not terribly interested as it's of very limited utility. E90post.com has had many more tuner guys than bimmerfest - try over there (don't forget that the E9x has the same engines that the F30 does - N55 & N54.
1) ok , i will read as much as i can

2) my car is not AWD , it's rear wheel drive.

3) i'm not sure you will beat me on the track , i have many many track hours with GT3
even few hours with Ferrari 458
i think both of them , best driver car in the world today.
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  #32  
Old 05-13-2013, 11:43 PM
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flat tire , new car only 3K Miles , i must replace the tire or can be fixed?

I ran into this same issue recently- I have Conti Pro Contact SSR 91H Grand Touring tires on my base 335d. Car and tires have 9500 miles on them. Found a nice nail in the middle of my tread a few weeks ago.

Conti indeed advises any SSR (Self Supporting Runflat) needs to be replaced after being punctured, regardless of where the puncture is. This is because the sidewall can delaminate if run flat or almost flat and compromise the integrity of the tire if patched and reinflated.

However, if the tire only loses some air and the puncture is in the tread, the SSR can be patched/plugged like any other tire (Bridgestone and Michelin do not have a replace only policy for their runflats) and there should be no issues for the life of the tire. The problem is most tire dealers will advise of Conti's policy (bull$hit or not) and will not patch the tire.


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Last edited by OILPowered; 05-13-2013 at 11:46 PM.
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  #33  
Old 05-14-2013, 12:45 AM
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SilverX3 SilverX3 is offline
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if nail not in sidewall then easy $20 job to fix it as long as pressure has not completely lost and not driving a far distance .....
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  #34  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:11 AM
ard ard is offline
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Originally Posted by OILPowered View Post
I ran into this same issue recently- I have Conti Pro Contact SSR 91H Grand Touring tires on my base 335d. Car and tires have 9500 miles on them. Found a nice nail in the middle of my tread a few weeks ago.

Conti indeed advises any SSR (Self Supporting Runflat) needs to be replaced after being punctured, regardless of where the puncture is. This is because the sidewall can delaminate if run flat or almost flat and compromise the integrity of the tire if patched and reinflated.

However, if the tire only loses some air and the puncture is in the tread, the SSR can be patched/plugged like any other tire (Bridgestone and Michelin do not have a replace only policy for their runflats) and there should be no issues for the life of the tire. The problem is most tire dealers will advise of Conti's policy (bull$hit or not) and will not patch the tire.


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Great post. The conti policy explains why people may be reporting varied experiences....

A
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  #35  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:09 AM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Originally Posted by pelo911 View Post
...
3) i'm not sure you will beat me on the track , i have many many track hours with GT3
even few hours with Ferrari 458
i think both of them , best driver car in the world today.
Sorry, can't resist, finally found the animation about "Instructor's worst student nightmare". So far you fit it to a tee.
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7117...-track-student
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  #36  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
Sorry, can't resist, finally found the animation about "Instructor's worst student nightmare". So far you fit it to a tee.
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7117...-track-student
huh.

I though pelo handled your swipe about driver training with a fair bit of class. He never said he owned those cars- which if he DOES only adds to his class. IMO.

I will admit that pelo seems to be a bit lost, and somewhat novice with some questions...but the language issue may be throwing off your perceptions.

my 2 cents

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  #37  
Old 05-14-2013, 11:04 AM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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I will admit that pelo seems to be a bit lost, and somewhat novice with some questions...but the language issue may be throwing off your perceptions.
Yeah, I'm not trying to bust his chops or anything. The "lost" seems appropriate: note the confustion regarding tire types, confusion about RFT vs. go-flat, etc. Totally amazed that he seems to be older (recent posts) rather than a young ricer (old posts, punctuation). Anyway, I'm kind of done with this thread - I think I've contributed way too much, some of it not really helpful, some of it hopefully clarifying matters, however.
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  #38  
Old 05-14-2013, 01:17 PM
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Zeichen311 Zeichen311 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
Yeah, I'm not trying to bust his chops or anything. The "lost" seems appropriate: note the confustion regarding tire types, confusion about RFT vs. go-flat, etc. Totally amazed that he seems to be older (recent posts) rather than a young ricer (old posts, punctuation). Anyway, I'm kind of done with this thread - I think I've contributed way too much, some of it not really helpful, some of it hopefully clarifying matters, however.
Wow, floyd, I hope you feel better soon. In an odd, really not-too-explicable sort of way, that last post reveals you're not feeling yourself. Keep calm and carry on! (I'd say "FIDO" instead but not while you're on Oxycodone. )


On topic, I have only one point to contribute. Regardless of one's opinion or experience in the repair-v.-replace debate, remember one thing: In most cases, a plugged/patched tire is no longer a speed-rated tire. Period. Note that the tire technology--run-flat or conventional--is irrelevant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TireRack.com
A few tire manufacturers allow a punctured tire to retain its speed rating when returned to service if it can successfully pass a thorough exterior / interior inspection and be repaired following the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) specified multi-step procedure.

Several other manufacturers specify their highest speed-rated tires (originally V-, Z-, W- or Y-speed rated) can be driven no faster than the 130 mph speeds permitted of a lower H-speed rating.

However, most tire manufacturers reason that since they have no control over the severity of the damage caused by the puncture, the destructive stresses encountered if the tire was driven while underinflated/flat or the quality of the repair itself, they cannot confirm if the tire has retained its full integrity or high-speed capability. Therefore, most tire manufacturers have established policies that a punctured and repaired tire no longer retains its speed rating and should be treated as a non-speed rated tire driven no faster than 85 mph.

Finally, a few tire manufacturers recommend outright tire replacement, as they will not accept repaired tires for warranty consideration or do not endorse repair of V-, Z-, W- or Y-speed rated tires
Emphasis added; full article here.

In most of the US the speed limits are too low for this to be a concern. However, speed limits in parts of the West are slowly approaching reasonable figures, with actual traffic speeds higher. Regardless, do not ever forget you are driving on a repaired tire. Be alert for any new vibrations that develop when driving at freeway speeds. This will be your first warning of impending belt failure from deterioration near the puncture site.

Again, unlikely to ever be a problem in the States, but don't delude yourselves that a plug & patch repair will make a speed-rated tire "as good as new." It almost never does.
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  #39  
Old 05-14-2013, 01:29 PM
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bighorns bighorns is online now
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Wow, floyd, I hope you feel better soon. In an odd, really not-too-explicable sort of way, that last post reveals you're not feeling yourself. Keep calm and carry on! (I'd say "FIDO" instead but not while you're on Oxycodone. )


On topic, I have only one point to contribute. Regardless of one's opinion or experience in the repair-v.-replace debate, remember one thing: In most cases, a plugged/patched tire is no longer a speed-rated tire. Period. Note that the tire technology--run-flat or conventional--is irrelevant.Emphasis added; full article here.

In most of the US the speed limits are too low for this to be a concern. However, speed limits in parts of the West are slowly approaching reasonable figures, with actual traffic speeds higher. Regardless, do not ever forget you are driving on a repaired tire. Be alert for any new vibrations that develop when driving at freeway speeds. This will be your first warning of impending belt failure from deterioration near the puncture site.

Again, unlikely to ever be a problem in the States, but don't delude yourselves that a plug & patch repair will make a speed-rated tire "as good as new." It almost never does.
Good information with a great link! One of the reasons I choose to have my tires repaired by Discount Tires is the way that they do the repair: dismount and 'shoe' patch from the inside of the tire. I've had plug type patches blow back out of the tire, so this other method gives me a better feeling about the repair. The lower speed rating info is good to know, and something to think about. Thankfully, it's very rare that I venture above 130 MPH!
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  #40  
Old 05-14-2013, 01:51 PM
ard ard is offline
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Originally Posted by Zeichen311 View Post
Wow, floyd, I hope you feel better soon. In an odd, really not-too-explicable sort of way, that last post reveals you're not feeling yourself. Keep calm and carry on! (I'd say "FIDO" instead but not while you're on Oxycodone. )


On topic, I have only one point to contribute. Regardless of one's opinion or experience in the repair-v.-replace debate, remember one thing: In most cases, a plugged/patched tire is no longer a speed-rated tire. Period. Note that the tire technology--run-flat or conventional--is irrelevant.Emphasis added; full article here.

In most of the US the speed limits are too low for this to be a concern. However, speed limits in parts of the West are slowly approaching reasonable figures, with actual traffic speeds higher. Regardless, do not ever forget you are driving on a repaired tire. Be alert for any new vibrations that develop when driving at freeway speeds. This will be your first warning of impending belt failure from deterioration near the puncture site.

Again, unlikely to ever be a problem in the States, but don't delude yourselves that a plug & patch repair will make a speed-rated tire "as good as new." It almost never does.

Dont declare something an absolute (ie the "period" in "In most cases, a plugged/patched tire is no longer a speed-rated tire. Period") if it is not always true.

I know for a fact (in writing from Michelin Tech Support) that a tire repaired to RMA standards retains the speed rating. (My personal interest was for PS2, latitude and cross terrain.)

Remember, on line vendors BMW, etc, are all in the business of selling fear, selling tire warranties and selling new tires. I have a problem with Tire rack selling a warranty that will not pay for replacement if a tire is 'repairable according to the MFG', and talking out of both sides of their mouths.


If you have specific tires that void their speed rating, post the names- but this crap from tirerack is just filler.

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  #41  
Old 05-14-2013, 04:45 PM
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Dont declare something an absolute (ie the "period" in "In most cases, a plugged/patched tire is no longer a speed-rated tire. Period") if it is not always true.
I did include a qualifier and you even quoted it: "In most cases." The "period" was to emphasize that the eternal run-flat debate doesn't apply.

The Tire Rack article says exactly what you confirmed with Michelin: The speed rating is retained if the manufacturer says so and the repair meets their requirements. But every manufacturer is different. That's not Tire Rack spreading FUD; they just summarized policies you can check for yourself by reading the tire warranties.

Just for grins, I picked Hankook at random and confirmed their entry in the table in the article. If you'd like to cover the other sixteen, be my guest.
Quote:
Hankook's speed symbol designations are verified to be in compliance with regulatory indoor test in accordance with ECE-R30,54 test. (Economic council for Europe : Procedure Load / Speed performance test for tires). These symbols are not applicable to the [sic] repaired tires.
Note, no qualifications about proper vs. improper repair...just "repaired."

Regardless, a plug-only repair, as suggested elsewhere in this thread, is not an RMA-approved repair. The tire has to be dismounted, plugged and patched and inspected inside & out for carcass damage from low-pressure running.
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  #42  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:43 PM
pelo911 pelo911 is offline
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Originally Posted by ard View Post
huh.

I though pelo handled your swipe about driver training with a fair bit of class. He never said he owned those cars- which if he DOES only adds to his class. IMO.

I will admit that pelo seems to be a bit lost, and somewhat novice with some questions...but the language issue may be throwing off your perceptions.

my 2 cents

A
you described it exactly right ! Thanks


i'm 32 years old
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  #43  
Old 05-14-2013, 10:05 PM
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you described it exactly right ! Thanks


i'm 32 years old
And now I find out your older than me!

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  #44  
Old 09-22-2013, 08:30 PM
m3kidd m3kidd is offline
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Sorry to resurrect this thread but can this tire be plugged? It just set off the TPMS once, I drove 150miles (no choice was on a road trip) and no air pressure loss.

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  #45  
Old 09-22-2013, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3kidd View Post
Sorry to resurrect this thread but can this tire be plugged? It just set off the TPMS once, I drove 150miles (no choice was on a road trip) and no air pressure loss.

That is about 50/50. It's really close to being too close to the sidewall. If you plan to plug it yourself then I think it will be OK. If you're going to have it done the shop may decline.
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  #46  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:29 PM
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No, the screw is outside the tread, just look at the light colored dust on the tread. One rule is within one inch of the sidewall cannot be patched.

If patched then kept as a full sized emergency spare tire, then maybe.
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  #47  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by m3kidd View Post
Sorry to resurrect this thread but can this tire be plugged? It just set off the TPMS once, I drove 150miles (no choice was on a road trip) and no air pressure loss.
Pirelli RFT does have OEM road hazard coverage for 1st 2/32 or first year free replacement and prorated afterwards. Have a reputable tire shop(or even dealer) to check it out and they can file the paperwork.
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  #48  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:57 PM
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I took mine to Les Schwab and they fixed mine although it wasn't that close to the edge. Just take it and see. Discount Tire would not fix it.
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  #49  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by m3kidd View Post
Sorry to resurrect this thread but can this tire be plugged? It just set off the TPMS once, I drove 150miles (no choice was on a road trip) and no air pressure loss.
I'd not take a risk on this tire.

The whole tire hazard thing is manageable in most places, I have not heard where it isn't. Here in AZ, you can walk-in into any Discount Tire store and buy a full warranty on your new set of tires for less than a cost of 1 tire. In this case the warranty would be $178 for the set; one tire installed w/o warranty is $340. Make sense to me!

So, if something like this happens, you get a new tire installed and be done with it.
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  #50  
Old 09-23-2013, 08:37 AM
HokieXDriver HokieXDriver is offline
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I take no chances with tires and brakes. I've had only a very few flats but I've always replaced the tires afterwards. Seems like tires and brakes are the two most important safety features on the car.

I don't want to be a jerk about it, I know cash flow can be an issue. Just my opinion.
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