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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:33 AM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Reached 51k Miles... now what?

Hey everyone. So I just recently hit the 51k mile marker on my 2007 335i. I have been reading on here about blasting and cleaning at around 50k or so. I have never owned a turbo'd vehicle before, so maintenance on them is somewhat new to me other than general maintenance. Should I get the blasting done? I also am on run flats and I bought the car with 37k on it, it had new Runflats, but haven't done anything with them other than tire pressure. Any other things that need to be looked at closely? Planing on keeping this baby running as long as possible; I enjoy the power and the curves.
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  #2  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:44 AM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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How about brakes have those ever been changed? But yes do a walnut blast asap.
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  #3  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:48 AM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Yeah, my brakes, according to the computer, are nearing a change within the next year. Already been looking at Turner for those. Been deciding, however, on either getting after markets or just buying OEMs.

Also, I don't really know of a shop to do a walnut blast. I live in a very rural area, but there are some good mechanics here. Perhaps I will just ask around. I assume that the purpose of the walnut blast is to have a cleaner engine, thus more power delivery? I know some mechanics, but not this stuff. Thank you for your reply.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:34 AM
ctuna ctuna is offline
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Google Mike Miller BMW for a schedule.

Google Mike Miller BMW for a schedule.
For a old school maintenance schedule and some history on maintenance
and free maintenance.

Basically change all the lifetime fluids if you want maximum longevity.
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:37 AM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus the Sig View Post
Yeah, my brakes, according to the computer, are nearing a change within the next year. Already been looking at Turner for those. Been deciding, however, on either getting after markets or just buying OEMs.

Also, I don't really know of a shop to do a walnut blast. I live in a very rural area, but there are some good mechanics here. Perhaps I will just ask around. I assume that the purpose of the walnut blast is to have a cleaner engine, thus more power delivery? I know some mechanics, but not this stuff. Thank you for your reply.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...530&highlight=

This my thread I noticed an immediate difference at idle and some gains in power delivery.
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  #6  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:46 AM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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I gotcha. I will call my mechanic when I get back from vacation next week about what I need to do. Thanks for the replies. I still have those runflats and every time I see you guys post about getting new Mich PSS's I am green with envy. Sigh, gotta save.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:48 AM
Robin128 Robin128 is offline
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Gus,

Unless you are experiencing problems I would concentrate on the scheduled maintenance... Fully sythn engine oil and filter, diff oil change, brake pads/shoes and maybe rotors, air and cabin filters and spark plugs. Oil change and filter of trans.

HTH

Rob
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  #8  
Old 05-12-2013, 10:07 AM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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I am not experiencing any problems, just want the car to run well and let it have a long life. My calipers are looking old, and I will need to new pads and rotors soon. I oil change every 7-8k miles, spark plugs were changed very recently.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:11 AM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus the Sig View Post
I gotcha. I will call my mechanic when I get back from vacation next week about what I need to do. Thanks for the replies. I still have those runflats and every time I see you guys post about getting new Mich PSS's I am green with envy. Sigh, gotta save.

If <$1500 is very significant, you should look at DIY for post-warranty maint. Dramatically less expensive and educational, know your car!

Walnut shell blast for instance. Accumulate tools....2nd time around yet less expensive and your ride's tip-top.

A thought....
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  #10  
Old 05-12-2013, 10:18 AM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Well I am in graduate school, so the cheaper the better haha. And thank you for your input, Cal.
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  #11  
Old 05-12-2013, 11:17 AM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Well I am in graduate school, so the cheaper the better haha. And thank you for your input, Cal.

Engineering?
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2013, 11:26 AM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Originally Posted by Robin128 View Post
Unless you are experiencing problems I would concentrate on the scheduled maintenance... Fully sythn engine oil and filter, diff oil change, brake pads/shoes and maybe rotors, air and cabin filters and spark plugs. Oil change and filter of trans.
++
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  #13  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:50 PM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
Engineering?
No, doing British Economic History, particularly in the mid-late 18th century. However, I know a little about mechanical engineering. I can usually fix lawnmower engines and such lol. But when it comes to Turbo'd engines, I am not as well versed.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:04 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Before doing the walnut blasting try having it borescoped through the throttle body. That will tell you how good or bad the carbon build up is. I have 58K miles my 335 runs like a top. I will (unless I notice poor running) borescope mine at 70K miles and most likely do the oil filter housing gasket, walnut shell blasting, new water pump and tstat which should take me well past 100K miles...
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:10 PM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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Before doing the walnut blasting try having it borescoped through the throttle body. That will tell you how good or bad the carbon build up is. I have 58K miles my 335 runs like a top. I will (unless I notice poor running) borescope mine at 70K miles and most likely do the oil filter housing gasket, walnut shell blasting, new water pump and tstat which should take me well past 100K miles...
lol and avoid people crashing into you that will insure you keep it for a long time
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2013, 02:11 PM
3star 3star is offline
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Shouldnt you also clean the exhaust valves if your cleaning the intake. IMHO the exhaust is what usually has the greatest carbon build up
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2013, 02:25 PM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Thanks for the help so far. Really appreciate it. When looking at new brakes, should I consider new Calipers? Those things are super expensive. Also, is upgrading my brakes worth it while keeping the HP the same? Looking at drilled vs OEM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus the Sig View Post
Thanks for the help so far. Really appreciate it. When looking at new brakes, should I consider new Calipers? Those things are super expensive. Also, is upgrading my brakes worth it while keeping the HP the same? Looking at drilled vs OEM.
Don't buy drilled rotors. The ones you can get off the shelf are manufactured cheaply and will break. When the rotor heats up and cools rapidly this creates heat cracks that usually start where the rotor was drilled.

Cross drilled rotors you see on Porsche's are cast that way andhave a very complex matrix of reinforcements behind the rotor to keep it strong.

If you want to upgrade your car get a ecu chip
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  #19  
Old 05-12-2013, 03:31 PM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Eh, I want to hold off on the power mods. If I am going to do power mods would like to do suspension mods first. But as stated, not much into modding because of budget reasons. Thanks though. The Drilled ones I was looking at were around $265 for a set of two.
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:05 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Use stock rotors and the current pads which don't dust like out 2007 pads did or a good quality ceramic pad like Cool Carbons which don't fade like the OEM pad but don't have quite as good an initial bite.
You don't need new calipers either the stock ones are fine unless they are sticking.
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  #21  
Old 05-12-2013, 05:41 PM
Gus the Sig Gus the Sig is offline
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Thanks! I appreciate the advice.
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