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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2013, 02:14 PM
evanwray evanwray is offline
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Location: johannesburg
 
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Mein Auto: bmw e36 325i
Angry overheating

Hi All, im new to this forum and hope I can get, and give, some good advice to all you vets out there.

I would like to find out if anyone has suffered the same problems as im having at the moment with my e36 325i.

It started with a leaking radiator and ended up as a total cooling system replacement. My problem is after replacing the radiator,water-pump,thermostat(correctly), and my expansion bottle(which exploded), bottle cap seals and vent screw and then bled the system correctly,the car still overheats with radiator hoses bulging at the seams threatening to explode.
I removed the new thermostat to eliminate it as a possible source of the problem, but yet it still overheats. the top hose gets very hot and the bottom one only warm. New radiator has good flow.Any ideas?
Should I consider removing engine drains and completely flush the system? How would the head gasket cause overheating if that was the problem?
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  #2  
Old 05-12-2013, 05:17 PM
Jakobie1086's Avatar
Jakobie1086 Jakobie1086 is offline
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Location: Doylestown PA
 
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Mein Auto: 330ti
Quote:
Originally Posted by evanwray View Post
Hi All, im new to this forum and hope I can get, and give, some good advice to all you vets out there.

I would like to find out if anyone has suffered the same problems as im having at the moment with my e36 325i.

It started with a leaking radiator and ended up as a total cooling system replacement. My problem is after replacing the radiator,water-pump,thermostat(correctly), and my expansion bottle(which exploded), bottle cap seals and vent screw and then bled the system correctly,the car still overheats with radiator hoses bulging at the seams threatening to explode.
I removed the new thermostat to eliminate it as a possible source of the problem, but yet it still overheats. the top hose gets very hot and the bottom one only warm. New radiator has good flow.Any ideas?
Should I consider removing engine drains and completely flush the system? How would the head gasket cause overheating if that was the problem?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=608155

Read this, then report back.
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  #3  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:05 PM
cristiane36 cristiane36 is offline
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Location: las vegas
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 40
Mein Auto: bmw 325is
you gotta bleed the system man, unscrew the bleed screw and squeez the hoses untill all the air bubbles come out of the radiator system. or untill the hoses stop getting fat. squeez both the lower and upper hose
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:20 AM
evanwray evanwray is offline
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Location: johannesburg
 
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Mein Auto: bmw e36 325i
bled the death out of the system and took it for a drive. Still overheating.
Noticed that the viscous fan doesn't work.When hot it should be hard to turn by hand I believe,but mine just free spins. Will change tomorrow when it cools down and see what result I get then. It was suggested that I change the sensor at the side of the radiator while im at it. Not sure if that is the temperature sensor for the display gauge or for the aircon auxillary fan.???
cheers.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:09 PM
cristiane36 cristiane36 is offline
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Location: las vegas
 
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How fast does it over heat. if the hoses are getting puffy then its obviously not the fan. The coolant is not circulating through the radiators system. To me this looks like you have a lot of air in your system.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:57 AM
evanwray evanwray is offline
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Mein Auto: bmw e36 325i
Sorry for late reply. overheats within half an hour. changed clutch fan and ran without thermostat and now the car hardly gets out of the blue! Just my luck, the "'new'" clutch fan runs locked all the time. So tried with thermostat back in and sure enough it overheats. I tested the thermostat in hot water and it does open. Hmmm...
Jacked up car and completely flooded system with coolant to remove any possibility of air locks. Noticed my internal heater wont blow hot no matter what I do. Maybe jammed solinoids.
Now it runs normal temperature for a while, then fluctuates between 1/2 and 3/4 gauge with radiator hoses rock hard from pressure. A quick release of the vent screw and all returns to normal without fuss or boiling.
Checked with my other cars and after a hard days work, their pipes are hot but soft and squeezy.
Combustion gasses getting into coolant??
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:21 AM
00racer 00racer is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 323is
I just went through this. Replace the water pump (I got one with a metal impeller) My car now runs perfect. Oh ya, I also replaced the radiator (after the top gooseneck broke), replaced the thermostat and put in an aluminum housing and a new fan clutch (twice on the fan clutch) but I was still overheating after a bit so that's when I replaced the water pump.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:24 AM
evanwray evanwray is offline
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Location: johannesburg
 
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Mein Auto: bmw e36 325i
changed the water pump initially even though the original was old but still ok. No difference there. Forgot to mention that the engine timing chain cover was also replaced because the nipple to the f pipe rotted through. The head was removed to accomplish this properly. It gave me a chance to check out the head gasket and replace with new. The car has had a bad idle since, and after checking all gaskets, seals, vacuum pipes et all, it still idles badly and the cooling system problems started shortly there after. Wondering if there is a common denominator there?? The car has done 400000Km's now, but maintained properly and looks and drives like a younger model. Sounds like my wife...
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