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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:24 PM
lasshah lasshah is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 530I
CA Smog test failed – Error code P0313, P1083, P0135, P0155, P0171, P0174 - HELP!!

I have 2002 (10/2001) BMW 530I, failed CA smog test on both 15mph and 25 mph test. I have all stock; use Costco 87 octane gas. The SMOG test failed due to engine light, here are Error codes P0313, P1083, P0135, P0155, P0171, P0174 on smog test sheet. I was able to read error codes by connecting to INPA (INPA v3.01/EDIABAS v6.4.3 Thanks David MC), please see attached. I cleared the error codes and took car for 50 miles spin and then connected to INPA to see if any error codes and unfortunately there are two (please see post). Please advice of what course of action I should try to fix these error codes. PLEASE HELP!!!

Attached Smog test, Error Memory report, Error Memory Report after 50mile spin, VANS screen shot, Analog Values screen Shot, Patrol Adaption, Lambda probe screen shot, rough screen shot
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	Smog test results.jpg
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Size:	121.2 KB
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2002 BMW E39 - Error Memory Report.pdf (101.9 KB, 33 views)
File Type: pdf Error Memory Report - Post reset 50 mile drive.pdf (33.9 KB, 32 views)
File Type: pdf Analog Values.pdf (405.5 KB, 18 views)
File Type: pdf lambda probe bank 1 2 - 5-30-2013 5-00-48 PM.pdf (77.9 KB, 42 views)
File Type: pdf Patrol Adaption.pdf (11.6 KB, 28 views)
File Type: pdf rough.pdf (12.1 KB, 14 views)
File Type: pdf VANOS.pdf (306.0 KB, 23 views)
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  #2  
Old 05-31-2013, 01:58 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Location: San Jose, CA
 
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Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
Is this the first time you've had it smogged since you've owned it? How many miles on the cats? On the O2 sensors?

The cats control both CO and NOx.

Did you heat the car up on the freeway before going to the smog station?

You could try replacing the pre-cat O2 sensors, using only Bosch parts, but this is no guarantee.

You may have a vacuum leak, too. A smoke test can find it.
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Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

Last edited by edjack; 05-31-2013 at 02:03 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-31-2013, 07:35 PM
lasshah lasshah is offline
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Hi edjack: Thanks for your reply. No, we own it since 2002 wife's car (because it not working now I own it.. LOL!!). The smog test passed last year, but one thing I notice that after the smog test my DSC warning indicator lit up, with no other indication of trouble to the driver. 139K mile, I am not sure if we change O2 sensors sine last major dealer service. Yes I did heat up the car before the smog test.

One side note: after the car failed the smog test, I did replace DISA Valve Flap (BMW 3.0 E36 Intake Manifold Flap Adjuster Unit Disa Valve Repair Kit) like this

URL: http://compare.ebay.com/like/1210564...Types&var=sbar

I think I am going to do perform smoke test next day or so, can you point me good source material on it..

Question, should I replace all four O2 sensors - both Pre & Post Cat O2 sensors?

Please advice and Thanks for your help in advance.
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  #4  
Old 05-31-2013, 07:51 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Just the pre-cat.

You need smoke test equipment.
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2013, 11:42 PM
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shaftdrive shaftdrive is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
You need smoke test equipment.
I paid about $250 for a smoke test & hose repair.
I would rather have paid for a good smoke machine.
Know of a good one for around that price?
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  #6  
Old 08-26-2013, 09:42 PM
lasshah lasshah is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 530I
Need Help!!

Hi edjack, Finally, I was able to replace the following three items yesterday

(1) DISA O ring,
(2) Throttle Housing Gasket 13547504729,
(3) and both torn upper & lower Boots ( Air Intake Boot/Hoses -Air Mass Sensor to Air Boot 13547505838 and lower Air Intake Boot/Hoses- Air Boot to Throttle Housing 13547505836)

I reset the error code (please see pre-rest PDF) drove the car for good 50 miles, but my engine light lit up and received another set of error code (post reset).

Please let me know what are these post error code are. Any help is greatly appreciated. I was going to replace Spark Plugs BKR6EQUP and pre-cat O2 Sensors 13477x2 and wait and see if I can pass the Smoke test before diving into replace Valve Cover gasket over the long weekend.

I was thinking to replacing the following next month or so (follow instruction http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm)

1) Valve Cover Gasket Set 11129070990 with new Valve Cover Grommet/Gasket 11121437395
2) Replace Double Vanos Seals & Vanos Unit; including Gasket for Vanos/Camshaft Cover on Cylinder Head11361433817

Please advice and Thanks for your help in advance.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Pre Reset - 08242013 3pm.pdf (15.3 KB, 45 views)
File Type: pdf Post Reset - 08262013 12pm.pdf (10.5 KB, 43 views)
File Type: pdf Post Reset - 08262013_5pm.pdf (8.9 KB, 24 views)
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  #7  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:45 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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I don't understand the codes. Have the remaining P-codes read and report back.
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  #8  
Old 08-31-2013, 06:29 PM
lasshah lasshah is offline
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Location: CA
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 530I
Need help!!

Hi All,
I was not able to scan the Pcode, I only have INPA V3.10/EDIABAS v.6.4.3 and DIS v52.0 installed on my laptop. Ok, so I used DIS and deleted both DME error codes (see attached 1 &2). Then, used INPA to clear any/all error codes, including Shadows codes. Restarted car, I noticed … for few min the car was rough (some hesitation…) then it was fine. So I launched INPA and found 1 error under Engine section, then I check Shadow error and found 4 errors (see attached Shadow page 1 and Shadow page 2).

I also tested live date for:
1) VANOS,
2) Lambda prob Bank 1 / 2,
3) rough,
4) PWG/MDK and
5) Patrol Adaption, see attached result.

Please let me know what do you think of Lambda prob Bank 1 / 2 readings? Please advice,

I’m schedule to replace both Pre-CAT O2 sensors on Monday. Can you review attached pics and let me know if I need to replace any other sensors to fix this “lambda probe heating upstream sensor error code” Please let me know.

Side note: this morning when I was on freeway, I observed that when I increase car speed above 60m/h, I feel some hesitation and it is very distinct and very noticeable, and when I reduce the speed the hesitation was gone, but when I increase the speed above 60 the hesitation was back. What do you think?

Please advice & thanks in advance.
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  #9  
Old 08-31-2013, 07:13 PM
Mikes530 Mikes530 is offline
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Your side DSC issue. This sometimes happens when the car is run on a rolling road. The DSC gets confused because it senses only 1 set of wheels turning, it should clear up in a few miles.

Your codes and symptoms seem to point to the O2 sensors. "Upstream lambda" I think refers to pre-cat sensors.
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2013, 03:10 PM
lasshah lasshah is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 530I
Update!!

Ok, here is update.

Yesterday, I replaced both Pre-CatO2 sensors, all 6 spark plugs, valve cover gasket set including Valve Cover bolt grommet (the gasket was not in bad condition but it was definitely leaking in back ( right above the back Pre-O2 sensor), and Ambient (Outside) Temperature Sensor. Reset error codes via INPA and DIS.

I drove approx 50 miles (street and Freeway), so far no errors. I still feel some hesitation at/or about 60 miles and it is very distinct and very noticeable, and when I reduce the speed the hesitation was gone, but when I increase the speed above 60 the hesitation was back. What do you think?

I uploaded INPA live data for screen shots for 1) VANOS, 2) Lambda prob Bank 1 / 2, and 3)Patrol Adaption, see attached result.Pl ease let me know what do you think of Lambda prob Bank 1 / 2 reading?

edjack and DavidMC Please! Please! advice.

Thanks in advance
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2013, 03:53 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
You need to search the web for help in interpreting these codes. Didn't you get a manual with the INPA? If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say your cats are bad, since they control CO and NOx, according to the smog printout, and that's where you failed. How many miles on the cats?

Check F3 and F4 in the e-box, under the right side cabin filter.

Go here and decode the reported P-codes; there are BMW-specific codes here, and a link to generic codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/bmw/

Hopefully, someone with INPA diagnostic skills will step up. However, the INPA bad graphs are all in the green; I assume the readings are within range.
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Last edited by edjack; 09-06-2013 at 04:15 PM.
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2013, 04:19 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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shaftdrive, use Google search.
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  #13  
Old 09-11-2013, 09:23 PM
1mowshn 1mowshn is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 750i
Try checking the bottom line on the oil seperator tube . the lower tube breaks apart and will set off a fail test. It's hard to reach I have three engines and each one this tube was bad. It will be at the bottom of the seperator and it goes to the dip stick right near the engine, your gonna have to do it be feel if you follow the tube up from the dip it will probably be broken or cracked a kit cost about 45.00 on ebay and if thats your problem all should be good. Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 09-11-2013, 09:49 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mowshn View Post
Try checking the bottom line on the oil seperator tube
Here's my story regarding that very same tube near the CCV ... (reproduced from the misfire thread) ...
- How to diagnose a BMW E39 engine misfire (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Well, AFAIK, you can not do better than to read that first post of that thread I just pointed you to. A lot of us put many hours (yes, many hours) into that first post (we edited it for two months, until it locked up so that you'd have all you need).

It doesn't get any simpler than that first post.

Anyway, to help others find a lean condition misfire, below is a writeup that I posted recently to the E46 forum to answer a question as to how I diagnosed "my" lean condition misfires.

I think posting it here is apropos because it shows someone with similar codes what the culprits might be, in pictures, from start to finish.



Here's my story ...

I started with this:


Given that ... it took me a year to find all the vacuum leaks (elapsed time) so I only ran the final smoke test in desperation to pass my smog inspection.

The first thing I did when I got the non-specific lean-condition codes was buy a scanner I could keep in my glovebox to keep track of pending codes:
Note: This screenshot below is probably of the fifth similar scanner I've bought because I love mine so much I give these away as gifts!


Knowing the BEST diagnostic tool of all is my eyes, the next thing I did was inspect all the vacuum hoses I could "see", and I ended up replacing all of them topside (e.g., the F-connector hoses and the SAP hoses and endcaps).

The endcaps are important, because they almost ALWAYS develop cracks, and, you should get metric ones to fit right (ask me how I know).



I don't think it was related, but I also found & replaced crumbly SAS hoses in the visual inspection process.


Then I tested the CCV, which, as you can imagine, is not as simple as it should be.


Then I tested the DISA, which, again, isn't as obvious as we'd like it to be.


Then I ran the classic carb spray trick, which, for an intermittent small vacuum leak, I find wholly useless, as I couldn't hear the engine change speeds - so that was a waste of time and cleanup effort.


I then borrowed the free Autozone fuel system tester for three months - but the fuel system was fine ...


(although I did learn where they hide the M54 Schrader valve).


Finally, I ran the smoke test, which found that the CCV hose connected to the oil dipstick was cracked in the classic place that it cracks open in all older M54 engines (before the newly redesigned hose came out) - and I replaced it with the newly designed hose.


In that process, I found my oil dipstick drain tube wholly clogged shut!


That's when I found the elbow cracks. Replacing the $25 elbow solved the final persistent vacuum leaks.

Then, I made sure I drove the California (aka Los Angeles 92) version of the FTP and doublechecked with the scanner that all registers were full.


And, finally, I took my bimmer for inspection (which, by law, had to be to an inspection-only station):


(and passed with flying colors).



So, in hindsight, the problem was that there were MULTIPLE causes for the vacuum leaks, some of which worsened over the year while I was diagnosing the problem.

My recommendation?
a) Run a professional smoke test ... or ...
b) Use that $150 to inspect & replace all the common culprits!

BTW, as you probably know by now, every repair by every user SHOULD result in added value to the database, so, these threads were just some of the indirect results of my quest to find the source of vacuum leaks.

- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to make, borrow, or buy lean-condition misfire test tools to test for vacuum leaks & lean conditions (1) (2)

- Where to get a proper DISA valve repair kit (1) & how some jury-rig 'repair' a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) (3) & how the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test DISA operation (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & a simple DIY to install an M54 DISA (1) & a nice DISA autopsy (1) (2) & a great DISA group buy (1) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can reputedly cause all sorts of cold-engine rough idle problems (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & why you want to check the DISA at 100K miles or whenever the airbox is removed (1) (2) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & a well documented example of how a broken DISA flap can ruin your engine (1) & yet another seemingly complex set of misfire codes reputedly traced to a broken DISA valve (1)

- How does the E39 fuel injection work (1) & what are the most often recommended fuel pump & fuel filter brands (1) (2) & a DIY for replacing the fuel filter (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & a quick test for fuel pump operation (1) (2) and a DIY for replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to replace and service your BMW E39 fuel injectors (1) & details on replacing the 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injector o-rings (1) & the location of the K96 fuel pump relay (1) & where is the fuel system pressure test Schrader valve for the I6 (1) & where is the fuel pressure test point for the V8 (1) (2) (3) & where is the location of the fuel pump relay K96 (1) & cleaning (1) (2) & replacing the fuel sensor (1) & resolving blown fuses due to a stuck fuel filler door solenoid (1) & engine fuel & octane (1) & The Gasoline FAQ & top-tier gas stations (1) & how large is the fuel tank and reserve in the E39 (1) & what gasoline to use (1) & how much gas should be left to cool the fuel pump (1) & how to siphon the fuel out of the tank (1) & does spilled gasoline go into the charcoal canister (1) & how to replace the gas cap tether (1) & a reputed fuel filler leak into the trunk (1) & the P0455 diagnostic trouble code when the gas cap is missing (1) & what is the cost differential between 87 & 91 octane AKI (1) & what gasoline mileage should an E39 get (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & the truth about mpg calculation accuracy (1) (2) & E39 great mpg stories (1) (2) (3) & E39 awful fuel mileage issues (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30).

- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1) & a video of oil separator quacking chubacca noise (1) & vacuum leaks due to holes in one or more of the five CCV hoses (1) (2) (3) or frozen or torn diaphragms (1) & a clogged CCV (1) causing pressure in the crankcase and smoke in the exhaust necessitating CCV system overhaul (BavAuto M54, M54,M54,M54,M54, & M54 observations) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); usually replaced with the insulated CCV upgrade (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to do a CCV delete (1)

Most of this was summarized in this thread:
- How to diagnose a M54 engine misfire (1) & a cold-engine intermittent misfire (1) & what you can expect for your smog emissions test results (1)

DISCLAIMER:
[I don't know anything about my M54 engine. When it breaks, I simply research how to diagnose & fix it.
I read; I try to understand; I ask questions; and I snap pictures (all the photos and screenshots below are mine).
I don't generally "throw parts" at a problem, and I fully test a suspected part before replacing it, so I had a LOT of research to perform.
Probably two dozen (or more) threads were involved in this quest to understand and solve persistent & intermittent BMW M54 engine vacuum leaks, and then I always try to add value to the forum so the NEXT person doesn't have to go through the same learning process. They start where we left off, and they're expected to improve the process where needed.
Given that, please consider this summary, from my memory, the short version of the diagnostic procedure I followed at the time (the longer version being in the thread record).]
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #15  
Old 09-12-2013, 02:36 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
Location: Under the lift arms
 
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Mein Auto: E39 540, E36 328is, E83x3
p1083 Fuel control mixture lean bank 1..

you have mad air leaks man
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