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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-03-2013, 04:48 AM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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How can I mod my 320i to 150 kw... without forced induction?

So I'm contemplating modding my 320i to get more power, and I'm fascinated by the engineering challenge of keeping it naturally aspirated. Dream is to turn it into a freakish touring-style track car. Why 150 kw? Well 150 kw is 201 hp, 201 hp divided by 2 L --> my car would have reached over 100 hp/L while keeping it naturally aspirated. Now that's some proper engineering!

So before we start talking mods, here's some basic precursors:
1. I don't want to spend too much $$$. I'd like it to be less than $3,000.
2. I want it to survive.. it is my only car, and it's my daily driver. But I'm not too fussed. It's done ~216,000 km, so if it doesn't quite make it to 300,000 km because it became too awesome, then that's ok.
3. Any increased loudness (ceteris paribus) isn't a gain or loss to me. The gain of having a car that sounds awesome at high revs is matched by the loss of people thinking I'm a hoon/ricer. Most importantly, the car needs to still be road legal here in NSW, Australia.
4. Smooth torque curve is preferable, but I find my currently boost-ish torque curve entertaining.
5. Definitely interested in revving higher. At the moment I can hit around 50 km/h in 1st, and 80-85 in 2nd, would love to get them up to 60 km/h and 100 km/h respectively. That's a 20% increase though, which would mean taking the rev limited from around 6.5k RPM to ... 7.8k That's a little scary for my engine.
6. LSD would be great (would help with point 5), but man they seem expensive. Prices I've seen are around $2,000.

Moving onto the mods, first where we're at:
0. 1994 320i sedan manual, M50B20 engine (that's apparently 110 kw). That means the famed M50 intake manifold. Again, 216,000 km and going strong. I do have a very small oil leak somewhere, so if I were to need to pull major bits of the engine apart, may as well do some modifications in the process.
1. "M3 exhaust upgrade" said the person I bought it from. I don't know if it's M3, but it's loud and twin piped at the back. I think it's made a difference, apparently my car should do 9.5 sec from 0-100 km/h, but I'm pretty sure I can do sub-9, maybe towards 8. Could just be more aggressive with my shifting than the standard (and could just be my mind).
2. Everything else is stock.

Now here's my thoughts on modding:

+5 kw approximately with the M3 exhaust, as a rough estimation.

+14 kw with a sports chip (Powerchip group - http://www.powerchipgroup.com/datasheets/5/BMW0012.pdf - they have PDFs and are a "Group", so they must be legit!). This is based on using 98 fuel, which I'm cool with. I'm wanting an intelligent chip that will adjust based on other modifications, so not sure if this is the one. Hopefully 14 kw would become 16-18 kw with some more mods.

That leaves another 21 kw. Thoughts:
1. CAI with air filter. Custom CAI then K&N? I can't see any numbers on how much this boosts performance, it seems marginal.
2. Sport cams, injectors? I don't know that much about this stuff.
3. Higher rev limit - a bit game, don't know how much the M50B20 can handle. This might be a surefire way of reaching 150 KW, but I imagine I'd have to replace a fair few parts along the drive.

So any suggestions? Is keeping it naturally aspirated going to be too expensive and too much of a reliability loss?
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:55 AM
granlund granlund is offline
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I think you are going to face a few problems with this project. In original form, the M50B20tu produces 190 Nm at 4200 rpm. Perhaps you can increase the peak torque a slight bit, but 100 Nm/liter is a target figure for car engines that need to pass emissions standards. So, let's say you can obtain 200Nm from your engine.

The only remaining option to increase power is to rev higher. Now, in order to produce 150kW, you need to move the torque peak to 7160rpm. That is not very easy to do. There are not very many road cars that can do that. The short stroke Honda F20C from the S2000 is one example.

I don't think the 80mm bore block will be efficient at these high revs, for the stroke that is needed. You probably have to start with an 84mm bore block (the 2.5 liter) and go with custom crank and rods, which would probably blow all normal people's budgets.

Last edited by granlund; 06-03-2013 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:06 AM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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Trying to get more N/A HP out of these engines is highly inefficient. To get 200 HP N/A your best bet is to swap in a s50/s52 or a 5.0 Mustang V8. Here is a good link for the V8.http://www.e36v8.com/
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:06 PM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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How can I mod my 320i to 150 kw... without forced induction?

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
I think you are going to face a few problems with this project. In original form, the M50B20tu produces 190 Nm at 4200 rpm. Perhaps you can increase the peak torque a slight bit, but 100 Nm/liter is a target figure for car engines that need to pass emissions standards. So, let's say you can obtain 200Nm from your engine.

The only remaining option to increase power is to rev higher. Now, in order to produce 150kW, you need to move the torque peak to 7160rpm. That is not very easy to do. There are not very many road cars that can do that. The short stroke Honda F20C from the S2000 is one example.

I don't think the 80mm bore block will be efficient at these high revs, for the stroke that is needed. You probably have to start with an 84mm bore block (the 2.5 liter) and go with custom crank and rods, which would probably blow all normal people's budgets.
Is 100NM/L really a maximum? The S engines frequently surpass that by as much as 10%, not to mention 100hp/L, and they still get modified higher. They're reaching peak power at 7000 RPM, which is about 500 RPM above my rev limit.

Do you think it'd be easier to reach 250 hp on 2.5L than 200 hp on mine? The whole ideal is 100hp/L NA.

And by "custom", do you mean aftermarket, or actually a one-off custom design and forge? I can see that getting extremely expensive. Also would my original gearbox cope, or would that need replacing?


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  #5  
Old 06-04-2013, 06:22 AM
granlund granlund is offline
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Originally Posted by andrew320i View Post
Is 100NM/L really a maximum? The S engines frequently surpass that by as much as 10%, not to mention 100hp/L, and they still get modified higher. They're reaching peak power at 7000 RPM, which is about 500 RPM above my rev limit.

Do you think it'd be easier to reach 250 hp on 2.5L than 200 hp on mine? The whole ideal is 100hp/L NA.

And by "custom", do you mean aftermarket, or actually a one-off custom design and forge? I can see that getting extremely expensive. Also would my original gearbox cope, or would that need replacing?


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Ok, so it is obviously not impossible with modern combustion chamber / gas exchange design, but we're talking about the M50 engine that was designed almost 25 years ago. The 'real' (not US) S-engines are quite different from the M5x engines.

If you really want to stand a remote chance of 100hp/liter on a frankensteined M5x engine, start with a non-vanos 2.5 with 84mm bore and use your 2.0 66mm crank to get 2195 cm^3; use the 145mm rods from an M54B25. Finally there is a variety of 84mm pistons that you can choose from to obtain a desired compression ratio.

Use the non-vanos head with valvesprings that are capable of sustaining >7500rpm; 2.0 non-vanos intake cam with a 2.5 vanos exhaust cam for increased overlap and lift. Finally the M50B25 intake manifold. (not the M50B20 since it is smaller).

For this frankensteined combination, you will definitely need a custom tune.

Any 2.0/2.5/2.8 gearbox should be fine. We're not talking about a huge amount of power here.

Last edited by granlund; 06-04-2013 at 06:27 AM.
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2013, 06:37 AM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Ok, so it is obviously not impossible with modern combustion chamber / gas exchange design, but we're talking about the M50 engine that was designed almost 25 years ago. The 'real' (not US) S-engines are quite different from the M5x engines.

If you really want to stand a remote chance of 100hp/liter on a frankensteined M5x engine, start with a non-vanos 2.5 with 84mm bore and use your 2.0 66mm crank to get 2195 cm^3; use the 145mm rods from an M54B25; there is a variety of 84mm pistons that you can choose from to obtain a desired compression ratio.

Use the non-vanos head with valvesprings that are capable of sustaining >7500rpm; 2.0 non-vanos intake cam with a 2.5 vanos exhaust cam for increased overlap and lift. Finally the M50B25 intake manifold. (not the M50B20 since it is smaller).

For this frankensteined combination, you will definitely need a custom tune.

Any 2.0/2.5/2.8 gearbox should be fine. We're not talking about a huge amount of power here.
Wow that's quite the frankenstein build. Thanks for that thorough detail! This might be a bit much for me at the moment, even though it does sound like a very cool project. It'd make more sense to do this if I was actually building a racing car for a 2.0/2.5L NA competition.. but I'm not. Maybe, for now, I could just settle with building a custom CAI, then working on the ECU to tune it up, and push the rev limit to 7,000 RPM. Who knows, that could perhaps bring me close to 135 kW, which wouldn't be bad for a 1994 320i.

Or maybe I could just keep saving up for an E39 530i, and skip right past 150 kW!
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:56 AM
granlund granlund is offline
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As you probably have understood, there is not a whole lot you can do to your engine to increase power before it starts getting really expensive. What I envision you could be doing instead of rebuilding yours is to find a 2.5 from a wrecked car, rebuild it and swap it in. That shoud be the easiest and cheapest way of substantially increasing power while passing emissions testing.
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:24 AM
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Time2Fly Time2Fly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Ok, so it is obviously not impossible with modern combustion chamber / gas exchange design, but we're talking about the M50 engine that was designed almost 25 years ago. The 'real' (not US) S-engines are quite different from the M5x engines.

If you really want to stand a remote chance of 100hp/liter on a frankensteined M5x engine, start with a non-vanos 2.5 with 84mm bore and use your 2.0 66mm crank to get 2195 cm^3; use the 145mm rods from an M54B25. Finally there is a variety of 84mm pistons that you can choose from to obtain a desired compression ratio.

Use the non-vanos head with valvesprings that are capable of sustaining >7500rpm; 2.0 non-vanos intake cam with a 2.5 vanos exhaust cam for increased overlap and lift. Finally the M50B25 intake manifold. (not the M50B20 since it is smaller).

For this frankensteined combination, you will definitely need a custom tune.

Any 2.0/2.5/2.8 gearbox should be fine. We're not talking about a huge amount of power here.
I would use the vanos head along with the for-mentioned, springs, cams and so on. I think this will give you a broader and longer power band. Or modify the non vanos head to use the vanos unit.
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  #9  
Old 06-04-2013, 08:33 AM
granlund granlund is offline
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I would use the vanos head along with the for-mentioned, springs, cams and so on. I think this will give you a broader and longer power band. Or modify the non vanos head to use the vanos unit.
For maximum specific power, a broad power band is irrelevant. All you care about is increasing compression and revving higher.

You could switch to an S5x head with S5x cams using the VANOS, but that would be the US version of that head which is quite difficult to come by in Australia.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:57 AM
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We both know higher compression means more power but then you run into the issue of non pump gas and emissions. With the amount of miles the motor has on it the best place to start is to freshen it up, you can increase the compression without changing the stock pistons and maintaining the stock combustion chamber size by decking the block. Changing the cam shafts is expensive but a big gain in HP and torque. even a good tune will get you big gains. You are correct for maximum power but you want to maintain that maximum power for a longer period of time higher revs is not always better if you cant maintain the power though out the RPM range.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:59 AM
granlund granlund is offline
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What you say is correct for increasing 'power under the curve', but the OP wanted to maximize specific power with a target of 100hp/liter.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:38 PM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Yeah granlund's got it, the chief aim is 100 hp/L at peak power. Having a broad powerband would be great, but I'd only consider trading peak power for a broader powerband if it meant having 100 hp/L for more of the powerband. It's all about that magic 100 hp/L number!

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
For maximum specific power, a broad power band is irrelevant. All you care about is increasing compression and revving higher.

You could switch to an S5x head with S5x cams using the VANOS, but that would be the US version of that head which is quite difficult to come by in Australia.
How much would it cost for me to get S5x head and cams in America? I imagine I could get them shipped for under $200. I wasn't aware of many people parting out their S5x engines.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:03 PM
granlund granlund is offline
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Originally Posted by andrew320i View Post
Yeah granlund's got it, the chief aim is 100 hp/L at peak power. Having a broad powerband would be great, but I'd only consider trading peak power for a broader powerband if it meant having 100 hp/L for more of the powerband. It's all about that magic 100 hp/L number!

How much would it cost for me to get S5x head and cams in America? I imagine I could get them shipped for under $200. I wasn't aware of many people parting out their S5x engines.
As I have previously mentioned, it's going to be difficult enough to obtain 100hp/liter peak without any powerband.

I think I have to part retract my statement on S5x parts. The head (actually the valve springs) will help you rev higher, but I'm not so sure that the lift of the cams will. They might have excessive lift and duration for a 2.0 liter engine.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:28 PM
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wow this has brought back memories of sitting in class going over engine formulae....kinda makes me want to shoot spitballs onto the ceiling with a bic roundstick....




seriously though, i wish you the best with this build. have you considered see what these guys suggest??

http://www.metricmechanic.com/



df
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:44 AM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
wow this has brought back memories of sitting in class going over engine formulae....kinda makes me want to shoot spitballs onto the ceiling with a bic roundstick....

seriously though, i wish you the best with this build. have you considered see what these guys suggest??

http://www.metricmechanic.com/

df
Haha nice. Yeah I've never had to think so much about engine mathematics! Finally appreciating the relationship between torque and power, so it's good.

I have, or at least the suggestions which are in line with my primary goal of specific output. No real interest in just dropping in a larger engine and leaving it stock, but the point of starting with a 2.5L but then modifying it heavily is interesting though. I like the idea of my car becoming an M3's little brother. Same high revving and specific output, but just a smaller engine. I almost feel like I could justify sticking an M3 badge on the back if I pulled off 100 HP/L on a frankenstein engine! Maybe.

Anyway I guess I'm realising that without heavy modifications on an engine block, I'm not going to see my target specific output. I'm not sure I'm up for the cost of that.

That Metric Mechanic site is awesome! Man I'd love to buy an S14 engine. But I see that they offer cams and heads for M50s. Cams aren't too bad at $800, head is bad at almost $3000.

Question: Cams for a 2.5L M50 would work, right? How about an S50? I imagine different engine lengths would be an issue, but I doubt they'd make an engine longer than mine and still stick it in an E36.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:22 AM
granlund granlund is offline
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Maybe you're better off keeping your 2.0 of you're simply chasing that magical 100hp/liter. Remember that the key to that number is high revs with small displacement.

The US S50/S52 are essentially the same engines as the M50/M52. It's the S50 from the rest of the world that is in most aspects incompatible with all of those.

Cams from the US S50/S52 might possibly have excessive lift and duration for what 2.0 M50 is capable of. A 2.5 should be ok. In terms of cost and availability in Australia for a 2.0, I suggest a 240/9.7 nonvanos intake cam and a 228/9 vanos exhaust cam. You get the nonvanos intake cam with the nonvanos head with stiffer valvesprings from a wrecked car.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:28 PM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Maybe you're better off keeping your 2.0 of you're simply chasing that magical 100hp/liter. Remember that the key to that number is high revs with small displacement.

The US S50/S52 are essentially the same engines as the M50/M52. It's the S50 from the rest of the world that is in most aspects incompatible with all of those.

Cams from the US S50/S52 might possibly have excessive lift and duration for what 2.0 M50 is capable of. A 2.5 should be ok. In terms of cost and availability in Australia for a 2.0, I suggest a 240/9.7 nonvanos intake cam and a 228/9 vanos exhaust cam. You get the nonvanos intake cam with the nonvanos head with stiffer valvesprings from a wrecked car.
I'll need to research this more later (in regards to what I have now vs what those are), but would that setup all be on one camshaft? It doesn't sound too expensive if I can source those from a wrecked car.

Mine is currently VANOS, if I replace the camshaft and head, has that removed all the VANOS aspects of my engine?

So let's say I get the cam and head, then do a custom, high flow CAI intake, then chip it to get me past 7,000 RPM, you reckon I'd have a good chance then at 100 HP/L? Is there anything else that I'd need to do?

I think that would end up being around $1,500 if I did all the work myself, which would not be bad. Though my car would be out of action for a while (assuming I get it back on the road!).
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:13 PM
granlund granlund is offline
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The camshaft and head from a non-VANOS would require you to switch to a non-VANOS DME, MAF and cam sensor; you get all of those from a wrecked car.

The path to high specific power is to look at the specific torque. Modern (from 1990-) engines, engineered for power instead of economy produce the peak 100Nm/liter in the 3000-4000 rpm range. Problem with your application is that you want 100Nm/liter at 7000 rpm. In order for this to happen, you first need high compression, because that is directly related to efficiency (=torque). You also need high duration cams that can fill the cylinder at these high engine speeds, and finally a head with intake and exhaust tracts that can flow this amount of air without choking.

The 2.5 M50 head/valves/cams/intake plenum will not choke a 2.0 st high speeds, so that's a good way to start. S50B30US cams designed for a 3.0 liter engine will most likely have too large valve lift for a 2.0 liter engine with reduced power overall as an effect. The larger lift (opening) reduces flow speed in to the cylinder and give you poor combustion. In order to take advantage of those cams, you'd likely have to rev that engine to something like 9,000-10,000 which neither the valve spring, nor the connecting rods will tolerate.

Speaking of connecting rods; with reduced stroke, you reduce the stress on them. That's why I previously suggested that you use a 2.5 liter (84mm) larger cylinder diameter block with your 2.0 (66mm) stroke crank to produce a 2.2 liter engine. You increase the volume by which you can produce power without any additional stress on the rotating mass (you have the same stroke as your 2.0, right). Increase the volume (for power) by increasing the stroke and you also increase the stress which prevents you from revving as much higher.

As you probably have understood, there is no easy and cheap way to obtain 100hp/liter from a 25 year old engine design. What I have suggested is probably the easiest, since you can source already available BMW parts. You still need to have the engine custom tuned by someone that knows what they are doing. Never underestimate this cost factor.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:29 PM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Originally Posted by granlund View Post
The camshaft and head from a non-VANOS would require you to switch to a non-VANOS DME, MAF and cam sensor; you get all of those from a wrecked car.

The path to high specific power is to look at the specific torque. Modern (from 1990-) engines, engineered for power instead of economy produce the peak 100Nm/liter in the 3000-4000 rpm range. Problem with your application is that you want 100Nm/liter at 7000 rpm. In order for this to happen, you first need high compression, because that is directly related to efficiency (=torque). You also need high duration cams that can fill the cylinder at these high engine speeds, and finally a head with intake and exhaust tracts that can flow this amount of air without choking.

The 2.5 M50 head/valves/cams/intake plenum will not choke a 2.0 st high speeds, so that's a good way to start. S50B30US cams designed for a 3.0 liter engine will most likely have too large valve lift for a 2.0 liter engine with reduced power overall as an effect. The larger lift (opening) reduces flow speed in to the cylinder and give you poor combustion. In order to take advantage of those cams, you'd likely have to rev that engine to something like 9,000-10,000 which neither the valve spring, nor the connecting rods will tolerate.

Speaking of connecting rods; with reduced stroke, you reduce the stress on them. That's why I previously suggested that you use a 2.5 liter (84mm) larger cylinder diameter block with your 2.0 (66mm) stroke crank to produce a 2.2 liter engine. You increase the volume by which you can produce power without any additional stress on the rotating mass (you have the same stroke as your 2.0, right). Increase the volume (for power) by increasing the stroke and you also increase the stress which prevents you from revving as much higher.

As you probably have understood, there is no easy and cheap way to obtain 100hp/liter from a 25 year old engine design. What I have suggested is probably the easiest, since you can source already available BMW parts. You still need to have the engine custom tuned by someone that knows what they are doing. Never underestimate this cost factor.
Thanks for all this info!

So to clarify the two options:

1. M50B20 block, crank, piston heads, rods with M50B25 (non-VANOS) head, valves, cams, intake plenum, DME, MAF
- Is this keeping compression the same, but working on reaching higher RPM with good torque? Could I reach close to 8k RPM with this setup?
2. M50B25 (non-VANOS) block, piston heads, head, valves, cams, intake plenum, DME, MAF with M50B20 crank and rods
- Is this keeping my max RPM the same but working on boosting compression so that I reach my goal 100 HP/L at a lower RPM? Will this bring us back to the issue of too much NM/L to pass emissions tests?
- Will the stock cams be enough?

Is this right? Still just learning all these engine parts. I think I prefer option 1, if it gets me closer to 8k RPM, unless the M50B25 block would be that much more reliable at 100 HP/L.

With the engine tuning, it's something I'd like to learn - it may be that I start this project by playing around with my engine tuning before tackling this engine build. Would also give me time to save up and search for parts if I do go ahead with this project.

9,000-10,000 RPM would be a dream, but I'd expect the costs to be way too high with that.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:32 AM
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:48 PM
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Posts: 1
Mein Auto: '94 520i sedan<3
Hi bimmerlovers!

First off, I'm no mechanical, mathematical or otherwise genius. But I am gonna give you my views and tips, hope they're of some use

Now from what I've read about the M50B20, there's not alot of gain from a K&N filter, atleast if you run N/A. Stick with BMW's airbox, as it's a box with very little obstruction of the airflow! K&N Filters will alter the way the engine sounds, and to keep it as legal as possible, I'd personally steer clear (I live in the worlds most restrictive country as far as car mods go, so your laws and requirements may differ from what I'm thinking of).

The mods that I've read about that will give you the most bang, are:

Service the powerplant! Make sure your engine is clean and tight from the inside out. Considering the age and mileage of your Bimmer, it's probably lost a tiny bit of power, and making sure the engine is spot on will help reliability and effect of other mods. Honing the bore, fresh piston rings and brand new seals roundabout will make a difference in all aspects of power. And of course standard service like a good oil, fresh filters, belts, sparkplugs etc. Also, make sure anything connected to the belt is in good shape, as for example a bad alternator may make the belt run less efficiently, thus impacting the power and ignition.

ECU Tuning/Chips: These can make a decent difference, from what I've read 15-40 HP depending on setup.

Different cams. Cams are expensive, but the right ones will seriously alter how the engine behaves.

Exhaust header: The stock exhaust header is great, but not perfect, look into a better make if you have a stock, and you'll see a gain in power.

Cleaning up the intake header: the intake header is usually built a little obstructive, and can often be bored out where the intake mates to the head. Giving another increase point.

Diffs: I have a '94 520i myself, and seemingly no diffs from other cars fit, so an aftermarket LSD is gonna be expensive, best bet is getting a used one, but still expensive. Deal with it or forget it. (sadly, because the lack of LSD completely bums me out... My former Opel Omega, with a less powerful engine, but an LSD, gave me SERIOUS fun on wet tar!)

Hope some of this helps you out! I've not tested any of these mods myself, as the bank is missing, but some of them will be done to my 520i ASAP. Sourcing a bit from what I've learnt around from fellow modders, and especially the E34 bible.
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  #22  
Old 09-28-2013, 03:01 PM
bmw-mania bmw-mania is offline
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Location: California
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,359
Mein Auto: BMW
S14 M3 engine anyone?




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Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
I don't have to read the username on these posts to know who wrote it.

Bmw-Mania, Ladies and Gentlemen.
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  #23  
Old 09-28-2013, 03:34 PM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Location: Australia
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 63
Mein Auto: 1994 320i
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrakeKNOR View Post
Hope some of this helps you out! I've not tested any of these mods myself, as the bank is missing, but some of them will be done to my 520i ASAP. Sourcing a bit from what I've learnt around from fellow modders, and especially the E34 bible.
Very keen to hear the results of these upgrades, keep us posted!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw-mania View Post
S14 M3 engine anyone?
It's true, but here in Australia that engine is close to $10k... it's not a cost-effective power plant unfortunately.


It's been a while since last posting here, I've been thinking that it'd be better for me to do a engine swap before I do an engine pull-apart. Down the track I may get myself a 316i hatch, strip the guts out, then drop a M52B28 in it - you can get those for under $2k here, so pretty good bang for your buck. Would be quite a ride with that power/weight ratio! But right now my car is good enough, got much more important things to save for first.
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2013, 03:49 PM
bmw-mania bmw-mania is offline
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Location: California
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Dammit... Sorry, mate!
. you mean we have to be practical?

I see your dilemma.. there are a few s14's here in the states for 5K..

M52 with a M54 rotating assy will give you some big "ooomph" for low-bucks!

Cheers!
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Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
I don't have to read the username on these posts to know who wrote it.

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  #25  
Old 09-28-2013, 03:55 PM
andrew320i andrew320i is offline
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Location: Australia
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 63
Mein Auto: 1994 320i
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw-mania View Post
Dammit... Sorry, mate!
. you mean we have to be practical?

I see your dilemma.. there are a few s14's here in the states for 5K..

M52 with a M54 rotating assy will give you some big "ooomph" for low-bucks!

Cheers!
Haha unfortunately we do!

By rotating assembly, you mean the cams? To me it seems that if I do a sports chip and cam upgrade, along with working on the intake, it'd take me to 200 bhp. Would be quite a ride for a 2L! Probably a very peaky one as well.
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