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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 07-27-2013, 01:05 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Rust is now repaired and shock tower is repaired. Since it is not in an area seen, I just told them to leave it alone instead of painting the area, otherwise might as well paint the whole bay. Anyways, here are the pictures:





Here is the car ready for the new engine:



Here is the engine, all completed... with the engine mount on the passenger side upside down... Not happy... I will explain further down:




Here is the engine installed in the car... not a happy or graceful install... I forgot to flip the mount on the passenger side, the proper side up:




So what happened you ask? Well, when I flipped the mount on the passenger side upside down, I needed to keep the engine stable as I hooked up the wiring and hoses. The mount kept the engine stable and on the proper angle while I get everything on, while it sat on the floor. Like a moronic dimwitted idiotic fool, I forgot to flip the mount to the proper right side up. The install that should have taken an hour tops, took almost 3 hours. In that time, I heard cracking, popping, and the plastic shroud cracked. Furthermore, I think I chipped one of the heater core plastic hoses that comes out of the firewall. I am going to re-assess the damage tomorrow and see if there is enough material on there to just hook the hose up anyways. If it is as bad as I think it is, I am not going to be happy at all. Furthermore, the one time use locknut bolts on the passenger side were already torqued. Having removed them, it is now done. Not a good day. I will use the other good bolt and put it on the bottom, while the one that was already torqued down, on top. Then use some red thread lock to keep it in place until I change it out another time, if it will require it.

I dunno, I am not in a happy mood today. Not at all. I was close to standing in front of a speeding bus for such a moronic move I did. Now, I have no idea how much damage I caused because of that stupidity. I dunno. Hopefully it is fixable. But right now I am so bummed. But anyways, enjoy what you guys see so far. I am hoping my buddy will open his shop tomorrow so I can see what's broken and what have you.
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My 325is M-Tech Restoration Thread
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  #77  
Old 07-27-2013, 01:24 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Here is the part I will need when I get home to replace it after the car is done:

22 CONNECTION FLANGE 1 64118390698 $16.42

Thankfully it is not that expensive. Good lord...
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  #78  
Old 07-27-2013, 05:11 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCJon View Post
So was that the extent of the damage?


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I will call. I was so angry I just came home and slept on the floor. I needed to calm down before I killed something.
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  #79  
Old 07-27-2013, 05:53 PM
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bummer.... i hate it when i do stupid things like that!! i once put a pressure plate in without the clutch....

then proceeded to break one of the the bolts to the pressure plate when putting it back together.

the

last

one....


had to take it all apart *again* to get the threads out, find a replacement bolt with the proper rating, and put it back together for the 3rd time....


so, yeah....i know that feeling....

but that it one clean swap!!




df
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  #80  
Old 07-27-2013, 06:07 PM
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Don't be too hard on yourself Harry! $hit like that happens to all us DIYer's. We don't do this stuff day in / day out so that things that come autopilot to the folks that are doing it for a living get by us.
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  #81  
Old 07-27-2013, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
Don't be too hard on yourself Harry! $hit like that happens to all us DIYer's. We don't do this stuff day in / day out so that things that come autopilot to the folks that are doing it for a living get by us.
well,.....i was working in a shop when i did my little 'oopsie'....i had gotten the trans up and part way bolted on, removed the trans jack, went to get the remaining bolts off the cart and saw the clutch sitting there....


s'okay, though....worked with a guy that installed an auto trans and when he went to bolt up the tq converter he realized there were no bolt holes lining up with the flexplate....he had left the tq converter out altoghther!!!


so, yeah,....things like this happen....





df
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  #82  
Old 07-27-2013, 07:55 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Yeah but I am more concerned about the damage that was done, that is going to be near impossible to reach, let alone, I am more worried about the wire harness, since there was a lot of pressure put on the wires when we were trying to install it, not realizing I didn't reverse the damn engine mount. I am hoping at least the harness is OK. If it isn't... I am just hoping it is fine. The current major damage is the Connection Flange for the Heater Core. I am hoping it is only that. If it is more... I don't know what I am going to do. I really don't. I am at my wits end at the moment. It's like watching a beautiful building come to fruition from years of planning and drawing, then all of the sudden, one stupid move like a foundation not being dug deep enough causes the whole thing to crumble down. I may be overblowing the situation until I get a better look at the car, but right now, the cracking of the plastic, the sounds are still etched in my memory and I can't shake it.

I'm seriously at the point of selling my 328i to get more funds and use the money to fix whatever is broken. I hope it doesn't get to that extreme, but I am really getting close to that point.
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  #83  
Old 07-27-2013, 08:01 PM
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That plastic 3 point connector piece for the heater hoses is a bit of a PITA but if you pull the cowl cover you have reasonable access to it....
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  #84  
Old 07-27-2013, 08:39 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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^This

I really don't think you did that much damage at all... Maybe it's because I destroy things quite a bit. But that heater valve isn't super hard to replace. Plus, if it makes you feel any better, I doubt you damaged the harness unless you caught the wires on something and pulled them apart. You usually get away with just pinning them against something.

Sleep in your bed tonight
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  #85  
Old 07-28-2013, 09:28 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Well CJ, you were right. The only thing that broke was that heater junction thingie and the plastic shroud that sits on top of the fuel rail. Everything else was in great shape. However, when we pulled out the slave cylinder to put in the new one... the fork fell... Not good. Just yet another F'ing setback. I have no clue how it fell given how I triple checked the transmission before mating it with the engine. Fork was sitting on the spring of the pitch pin, throw out bearing was on the shaft and in the proper setting, and the bottom fork was sitting on the old slave cylinder plastic thingie. This made absolutely no sense why the fork just fell down when we pulled out the slave cylinder... so now, I have to separate the transmission and do it all over again... thankfully we didn't bolt up the transmission yet, nor tighten down the engine mounts to the motor mounts.

And I start work in the IT world tomorrow... ARRRGH!!! I freakin hate computers and the IT world!!
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  #86  
Old 07-28-2013, 09:49 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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This all sounds like the normal trials & tribulations of performing an engine swap as someone who doesn't do it every day for work. Sure, there will be setbacks, but you will emerge triumphant. It's all part of the process, and I have faith in your ability to persevere, Harry! Now, time to practice being a zen master.
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  #87  
Old 07-29-2013, 11:57 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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God, sitting here on my first day at the new job. Can't stop thinking about the M-Tech... Argh!
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  #88  
Old 08-06-2013, 05:40 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Eeek, forgot to update this thread! Well, we removed the transmission off the engine and low and behold, the fork was sitting on the bottom of the case. How it got there, no one knows. But the pivot pin and the spring were still on, but not the fork. For whatever reason, the fork came off. Suffice to say, we put the fork back on and in the spring and remounted the transmission. Slave cylinder got installed with the expected resistance we were hoping for.

So right now, is the O2 sensor bracket fun. If you saw my other thread about a bracket for the lambda sensor, you will see that the wiring is not reaching all the way over. I have no idea why to tell you the truth. I thought the OBD 1 wiring harness were all the same. I guess I was wrong. I dunno, I could still be wrong and maybe have a tangle somewhere. I will see later on. I doubt it, but we'll see. I thought about splicing the wires and extending the wires out. But I will see what the 318i bracket will do for me today. I hope this works. The bracket fits between a transmission joining bolt and the transmission case. If this doesn't work, I am breaking out the soldering iron and some 12 gauge wires and heat shrink. Getting tired of this.

Next up, coolant system and core support re-installation.

By the way, I used to have this poster back in high school, when the E36 M3 first came out in 1995:



I need to get this again. Badly. Anyone know where I can get a vintage car poster like this?
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  #89  
Old 08-06-2013, 06:22 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Anyone ever heard of this book: BMW 3 Series - E36 Restoration Tips & Techniques, by Greg Hudock? I looked him up on Facebook and he has a nice work history... even worked at Penthouse as a contributing editor... LOOOOL!! How this mixes with his passion of cars is beyond me. But I added him to my FB. I wonder if he actively watches it or has one of his lackeys do the posts.

Anyways, can't wait to get out of work and go to Tischer to pick up my parts.
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  #90  
Old 08-06-2013, 07:52 AM
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Looking good Harry!
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  #91  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:17 AM
LordlierPie7781 LordlierPie7781 is offline
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As for the O2 sensor wiring, i was just under my 93 325is, and it has the wiring going under the transmision, not over. I also believe i have an S5o swap in there, if any of this helps.
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  #92  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:39 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LordlierPie7781 View Post
As for the O2 sensor wiring, i was just under my 93 325is, and it has the wiring going under the transmision, not over. I also believe i have an S5o swap in there, if any of this helps.
That would be fine if you didn't have a ZF Transmission from a 96+ M3. The OBD 2 M3's ZF transmission has the reverse light switch on the passenger side, not the driver's side.

Did you use a 95 M3's ZF transmission or stick with GETRAG?
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  #93  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:53 AM
LordlierPie7781 LordlierPie7781 is offline
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one of the previous owners did, or had the swap done. It is a getrag, i pretty sure it is the original. didnt realize the ZF had a different wiring harness
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  #94  
Old 08-06-2013, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LordlierPie7781 View Post
one of the previous owners did, or had the swap done. It is a getrag, i pretty sure it is the original. didnt realize the ZF had a different wiring harness
It's a BMW! Of course it has a different wiring harness!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hnaz View Post
I looked him up on Facebook and he has a nice work history... even worked at Penthouse as a contributing editor... LOOOOL!! How this mixes with his passion of cars is beyond me. But I added him to my FB. I wonder if he actively watches it or has one of his lackeys do the posts. .
How do these mix? Not my quote but "If it has breasts or wheels sooner or later it's going to give you trouble".
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  #95  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:26 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
It's a BMW! Of course it has a different wiring harness!



How do these mix? Not my quote but "If it has breasts or wheels sooner or later it's going to give you trouble".
Yes but, the one with wheels is easier to maintain and happy so long as you feed it and take care of it.

The one with breasts will just find something else to complain or nag about, especially after she talks to her babbling friends that can't hold a relationship to save their lives.

LordlierPie7781, The GETRAG and ZF transmissions that came in OBD 1 cars had the reverse light switch on the driver's side. I just verified this on my 95 M3. The ZF transmission on OBD 2 cars had the reverse light switch on the passenger side, as verified with my 328i and the transmission I have in my car now.

As per the main wiring harness, they are the same (OBD 1 that is). When you swap in an OBD 2 component like what I am doing, the OBD 1 harness will fall short, which WAS the case I was in. But that has been resolved now. I used the lambda sensor bracket from a 318i and it works perfectly and keeps everything nice and secure. I just removed one of the rear case bolts from the ZF transmission, placed the lambda sensor bracket in place as it is situated on the 318i cars, put the bolt back in, torqued it, voila. Perfect fit. I will take pictures of it later on. The steering rack is in place now, exhaust bracket that goes underneath the transmission is in place now, O2 sensor wires are nice and secure now, so all that is left is the motor mount bolts and I am done with the bottom of the car. All that is left will be the cooling system and finish hooking up the fuel lines to the fuel rail. Then add some fluids in and crank the car.

Future project for the car will be the suspension and brakes. I am leaning more towards Bilsteins and OEM sport springs for the car. I wondered about Koni shocks, but I am a Bilstein guy. I'm more familiar with them on the track and road. I know KONI are great shocks, but I used to work at ITT and could get 4 sport shocks for $350. I can't justify paying anything more than that for a price I used to get for KONI shocks. So I will stick with Bilstein... or Moton (if I ever had the money). Namely because I regret leaving ITT in the first place. It's a long story. The M3 brakes are still sitting on my floor, but I don't know if they will bolt right up to my car or if I need to change the spindle and hubs to get them to fit on my car. What all would I need to make the M3 brakes fit on the M-Tech?
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My 325is M-Tech Restoration Thread

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  #96  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:51 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Quote:
The M3 brakes are still sitting on my floor, but I don't know if they will bolt right up to my car or if I need to change the spindle and hubs to get them to fit on my car. What all would I need to make the M3 brakes fit on the M-Tech?
I've heard that cutting into your standard e36 spindle will allow you to mount m3 brakes but I just went and found some used, its worth while for everything to fit oem like. but keep in mind that if you do go get M3 spindles you will need M3 suspension as well. all said and done I will be about $1700 into my conversion. but thats new or rebuilt everything. I dont know where you found koni sport shocks for 350? the koni sport shocks I bought were about $600 but thats for M3, dont know if thats where the difference lies...
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  #97  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:53 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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You'll need to swap to M3 front spindles and rear trailing arms.
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  #98  
Old 08-07-2013, 10:26 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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You'll need to swap to M3 front spindles and rear trailing arms.
Heh, I have all those items still, minus the rear trailing arm on the passenger side and shocks, since the car was smashed on the passenger side. But I do have everything else. No worries, it is a future project anyways. Need to recoup after all I spent into this M-Tech restoration, making a true prototype M3 now, after the engine and transmission swap for the car that was released the year after.

Now I can't wait to do the suspension and convert it to M3 specs. I just need to get that chassis stiffening kit from Turner, and stainless steel lines.
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  #99  
Old 08-07-2013, 11:20 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Originally Posted by jkmeisl View Post
I've heard that cutting into your standard e36 spindle will allow you to mount m3 brakes but I just went and found some used, its worth while for everything to fit oem like. but keep in mind that if you do go get M3 spindles you will need M3 suspension as well. all said and done I will be about $1700 into my conversion. but thats new or rebuilt everything. I dont know where you found koni sport shocks for 350? the koni sport shocks I bought were about $600 but thats for M3, dont know if thats where the difference lies...
I used to work for ITT. ITT was contracted by Koni to develop their shock absorbent technology for more heavier duty applications. Because of that contract, ITT employees were treated with wholesale discounts on their automotive shocks. A perk I gravely miss.
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  #100  
Old 08-08-2013, 06:54 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Ladies and gentlemen... we started the car up today... started right up after we primed the fuel pump. Sounded FREAKIN GORGEOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Couple problems now... there is a major coolant leak coming from the back. No it is not the hoses, nor the back flange connected to the head that sends coolant to the heater valve then to the core. It is the junction area, the new piece I installed. right now, the guess is one of the o-rings got crushed. Second issue, the rubber grommets for the cruise control and throttle cable... I need to get them ASAP. I need two of these:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...Each%2520%2520



Part number: 35-41-1-152-331-M9
What it does: This is the grommet that holds the cruise control or throttle cable in place when you accelerate. If this grommet is not in place, your line will just play freely.

this is the grommet that holds the throttle and cruise control cables in place to the throttle body. I need them. BAD! i cannot drive or accelerate without them if I use the gas pedal.

So right now, once we get the coolant leak situated (I am hoping it is a crushed o-ring as I bought a couple sets just in case), the car is ready to go!!!!!! Video of the first start up coming up when I don't forget my camera next time.
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My 325is M-Tech Restoration Thread

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