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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #1  
Old 06-05-2013, 09:57 PM
harmans harmans is offline
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X3 brake pads and rotors - please advice

Hi, So recently my brake pads light turned on.

So i went to the bmw dealer. Dealer recommended me to change rotors and pads for all 4 wheels and gave me a quote of $1330 (approx $850 - parts and approx $480 labor ).

Then i went to a local auto repair shop (they have good reputation). Mechanic showed me pads and rotors ( rotors are totally rusted) and recommended me to change rotors/pads for all 4 wheels. He gave me a quote of $975. Below is the breakdown. He told me that he will put Bosch parts (same as BMW dealer)

Pads (Front) $78
Pads (Rear) $78
Rotors (Front) $139 * 2 = $278
Rotors (Rear) $139 * 2 = $276
Sensors 21 * 2 = $42

parts total = $755

So $755(parts) + $160 (labor) + taxes + etc = $975

I went online and came across www.autohausaz.com and checked prices for Bosch parts.
The prices are less than half. So front rotor ($61) , rear rotor ($61) , pad set ($36)

So why is mechanic charging me more than double for all the parts for the same brand ?
I cannot change the brakes myself but i can always buy the parts and pay the mechanic for labor charges.

Please advice.

Thanks_a_
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2013, 05:31 AM
bluskye bluskye is offline
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Shops want to make monies =)

If its a reputable shop, they will happily take parts you bring in and do the job.
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2013, 06:31 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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I am in the same boat but no light on yet.

Need to do my front pads and rotors, rear still have plenty of meat on them.

Has anyone tried the AKEBONO ceramic brake pads? They are affordable and people say the brake dust is negligible compared to other brands including OE.

For rotors, I think I am going for the Zimmerman Z coated ones. Does anyone have them?

Last question.. my brake pedal has a very loose feeling to it. It travels quite a bit before the braking starts, is that just because of my worn brakes or should I be worried about the master brake cylinder/pump? (I have not added any brake fluid to balance brake pad fade, as the manual says DO NOT!)

Thanks guys and gals!
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2013, 08:44 AM
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X3emist X3emist is offline
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So wadda ya gonna do

So, what are you going to do if you have a problem with a pad or rotor down the road? Don't expect the indy to fix it for free if you bring your own parts. Do you take your own hamburger meat to McDonalds and ask them to cook if for you.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2013, 11:12 AM
derSpeed derSpeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjladopoulos View Post
I am in the same boat but no light on yet.

Need to do my front pads and rotors, rear still have plenty of meat on them.

Has anyone tried the AKEBONO ceramic brake pads? They are affordable and people say the brake dust is negligible compared to other brands including OE.

For rotors, I think I am going for the Zimmerman Z coated ones. Does anyone have them?

Last question.. my brake pedal has a very loose feeling to it. It travels quite a bit before the braking starts, is that just because of my worn brakes or should I be worried about the master brake cylinder/pump? (I have not added any brake fluid to balance brake pad fade, as the manual says DO NOT!)

Thanks guys and gals!
I currently have ceramic pads. There is almost no dust at all. Zince coating is a waste of time. It still corrodes (pretty fast) if you drive in areas where salt is used on the roads. I currently have cryo-treated rotors with black paint on the unswept areas. The black paint wipes up like new. I got everything from Tirerack and installed them myself. I am very pleased with the set up.

Your pedal likely has more travel because your pads are worn. Also, make sure you bleed your brakes every two years.

Oh, by the way, you may not have a light because the sensor may be bad. When I changed my brakes, my front sensor was not working. The brake dust and dirt on it wouldn't allow a metal to metal connection to turn on the light.

I know some may not agree with the parts I used, but I am speaking from experience. I have cryo-treated rotors and ceramic pads on my X3. For the last 20,000 miles they have performed flawlessly. About two weeks ago I changed my shocks and struts. At that time I inspected my brakes. The pads and rotors (again, after 20,000 miles) show little wear.

Last edited by derSpeed; 06-12-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2013, 12:34 PM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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Hey derSpeed,

Good to know about the brake dust, I m getting sick of all that blackness on the front rims. Also, good to know that after 20k miles they are still doing well

I did a full brake fluid flush 1 year ago, will do it again around December (2 years). The pedal feeling didn't change much, but the pads were at 30% left then.

Now they are at 15-20% left, that is why no light is on. I think I am not passed that critical mark yet.

I plan on doing the whole thing DIY, and yes, I live in Toronto so in winter we get more salt than tarmac

Painting the calipers, I was hoping would preserve them better. I ll try, and if the same corrosion rate continues, I ll just have them replaced.

Thanks!
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:38 AM
todd92 todd92 is offline
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I got Brembo rotors and Stop-Tech pads on Amazon for $400 and DIY. It takes 3 hours. Do the math.
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:50 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd92 View Post
I got Brembo rotors and Stop-Tech pads on Amazon for $400 and DIY. It takes 3 hours. Do the math.
for the front only or rear too? ($400)

I've used Brembo rotors in the past (2008) and didn't like them that much. The cheap series (OEM replacement) is crap. They last half of what the Genuine BMW one lasts and they don't cool down quick enough, so after the first hard brake, you have brake fade till the next day

Are they better now???

Stop-Tech - can't say, no experience at all.

Last edited by sjladopoulos; 06-13-2013 at 06:54 AM.
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2013, 07:44 AM
todd92 todd92 is offline
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For all 4. Stop-Tech performs like OEM, with similar dust. Brembo is an OEM supplier, I have had zero problems with this setup, going on 30k miles now.
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  #10  
Old 06-13-2013, 07:52 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd92 View Post
For all 4. Stop-Tech performs like OEM, with similar dust. Brembo is an OEM supplier, I have had zero problems with this setup, going on 30k miles now.
Thanks todd92!

I also came across a sweet deal on brembo rotors, just passed on them due to past experiences.

Since you confirm that they are good, i ll look again.
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  #11  
Old 06-14-2013, 03:33 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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I did front brakes on my 2007 X3 last weekend. I purchased all OEM parts:

$106 for front pads (ECS) German made
$101+tax each front rotor (local dealer after 20% CCA discount) German made
$22 for wear sensor (local dealer after 20% CCA discount)
New set screws, and then random supplies like brake cleaner and anti squeel paste.

I spent about 6 hours on it from start to totally cleaned up--first time doing the job, and I had to buy a $10 piston retract tool and a $12 C-clamp. I totally cleaned the hubs and calipers, guide pins and guide pin bushings.

Me personally---I only buy OEM parts or parts from suppliers that I KNOW make the oem parts (example: NGK, ATE, Brembo, etc.) OR a proven, reputable aftermarket company (Supersprint, Hamann, Schnitzer, Bilstein, etc.). All bets are off on everything else as far as longevity, performance and fitment go.

Last edited by PSUEng; 06-14-2013 at 03:35 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2013, 11:57 AM
Grabby544 Grabby544 is offline
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Re: X3 brake pads and rotors - please advice

Good to know, thanks for the Intel!

Sent from my ADR6350 using BimmerApp mobile app
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  #13  
Old 06-16-2013, 02:28 PM
silentbob silentbob is offline
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IIRC, the brake pad wear sensors actually trigger when electrical contact is LOST in the sensor, rather than when it is made. Basically, the lead that connects two contacts gets worn away.
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  #14  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:45 PM
X3SD X3SD is offline
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Wink Full Pads and Rotors Replacement Procedure

This will help you for sure:
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:48 PM
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Teemo Panda Teemo Panda is offline
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Ohh Come on man, The indy is already giving you a fair price,
He has also have to make money for the parts plus shipping.
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  #16  
Old 06-17-2013, 11:34 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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So do we need to replace the sensor as well when changing pads? Can't you re-use the old one? (bottom line, as long as I dont get a fault code, I never wait for the indicator to tell me when I need new pads)
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2013, 01:00 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is online now
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You can certainly re-use the old one.

Just be careful when taking the business end out of the old pad and fitting it in the new pad.

Saves time from messing about with the connection in the wheel arch, saves money, and shows you are on top of maintenance items so don't need a warning light to tell you.
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2013, 06:37 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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Originally Posted by Supercourse View Post
You can certainly re-use the old one.

Just be careful when taking the business end out of the old pad and fitting it in the new pad.

Saves time from messing about with the connection in the wheel arch, saves money, and shows you are on top of maintenance items so don't need a warning light to tell you.
Thanks Supercourse!
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2013, 03:04 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Originally Posted by Supercourse View Post
You can certainly re-use the old one.

Just be careful when taking the business end out of the old pad and fitting it in the new pad.

Saves time from messing about with the connection in the wheel arch, saves money, and shows you are on top of maintenance items so don't need a warning light to tell you.
Yep--I damaged my un-tripped sensor trying to remove it. So much pad dust and gunk in there, but I had a new sensor so no big issue to use the new one.

Another hint--when you take the rotor off the knuckle, use a wire brush to clean the hub surface and apply a light coating of anti-seize prior to installing the new rotor. Also apply some light anti seize to the rotor set screw and the surface of the wheel that will contact the rotor. Clean the contact points between the caliper carrier and hub as well.

Regarding that video, there are so many bad practices that I don't know where to start:

I found that using some rubber straps routed through the calipers helps hold them to the springs, so they don't dangle by the brake fluid line. Do NOT let the caliper dangle from the brake hose like in the video!!! That is HACK.

Use a piston retraction tool, or at least a c-clamp and a used pad, to push the piston back in the caliper. And go slowly. But don't grab on the piston with channel locks! OMG...

As far as the anti-rattle clips go, be careful removing and installing them--you can scratch/gouge your rotor and you do NOT want that on a new rotor. Pay attention to how it comes off and goes on. You can actually use your fingers if your hands are strong enough.

Use a 6" C-Clamp to push the caliper back slightly to facilitate initial removal of the caliper; don't pry on stuff with broken screwdrivers.

You need to apply some anti squeel to the back side of the inboard pad. The video does not do this.

You also need to clean out the gunk and crap in the caliper housing prior to installing new pads.

Use brake parts cleaner to clean the caliper guide pins and the guide pin bushings. BUT--do NOT lube the guide pin bushings per BMW TIS procedure.

So many wrong things in that video. But I guess he gets it done.

Last edited by PSUEng; 06-19-2013 at 03:06 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-07-2013, 04:43 PM
911 911 is offline
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I used www.autohausaz.com and Bosch parts, worked great no issues.
Sensors gets brittle when old and may fall apart, mine lasted to about 90K miles before I had to replace - good luck.
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  #21  
Old 07-08-2013, 06:35 PM
MADBMWX3 MADBMWX3 is offline
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Got my rear brakes/rotors/sensor replaced by stealer ship for $700+...will be doing my front one my self....Bavarian Auto Sports has a great video for DIYselfers like me...
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  #22  
Old 08-27-2013, 09:29 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
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Got TEXTAR rotors and AKEBONO pads on my X3, my buddy (awesome BMW mechanic) got them from his supplier

Prices are on par with what was posted earlier

Very happy!
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  #23  
Old 08-27-2013, 10:22 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is online now
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Originally Posted by bluskye View Post
Shops want to make monies =)

If its a reputable shop, they will happily take parts you bring in and do the job.

This is not true , a Reputable shop won't allow u to bring your own parts for Liability reasons

If u want to bring your own parts just do the Job your self
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:22 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is online now
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"Burning 2nd is a lot like vitamin tonic. Overly harsh, tastes like crap, but somewhere in all that there's good intent......just have to learn to read between the lines, actually you have to squint really hard to see the good, but its there somewhere"

Last edited by Burning2nd; 08-27-2013 at 10:24 AM.
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  #25  
Old 11-22-2013, 05:21 AM
enjoydriving enjoydriving is offline
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I've replaced the OE pads when the car did 7K (Kms not miles) with Akebono Ceramic pad all around. As I could get a pair of new rotors at the front so the slightly worn original front rotors were removed, machined and painted for future used. The rear rotors were also slightly worn but I just put the new pads on.

Now I've done 45K kms and most of it is start-stop city driving, the pads and rotors are barely worn at all. The braking feel is slightly soft or subtle but the stopping is still accurate and on time which I like it more. In comparison I feel the OE Pads are more jumpy as the mass of the car is quite big. As predicted, the dust has been greatly reduced but more significantly the wear on the pads and rotors have been amazingly low, no substantial wears on the pads and rotors after almost 40K. My colleague had X5 and he had to replace the pads and rotors annually. He was only doing around 20K annually…...

One thing I noticed the ceramic pads may not be the best when you park your car in the wet and leave it overnight. The next morning, the first hundred meters the brake is not as effective as usual. I noticed the rotor wipe surface is a bit rusty but once the pads clean up the rotors and coat(?) the surface, the brake is back to normal even driving in the water.

I've been getting great help from this forum so I hope I can also feedback this info to help.

Last edited by enjoydriving; 12-11-2013 at 02:42 AM.
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