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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 06-24-2013, 07:38 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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So, next up on the car will be stripping the interior , adding a roll cage, a seat and a removable steering wheel. This is complete overkill for a car that's this slow, but I feel like I should do the safety stuff first.

I was hoping to run in Spec3, but I didn't realize that class only allows the e36 325 so my target for this car is to run in one of NASA's PT classes. I think the base class for this car is 'F'. I don't see myself actually racing until 2015.

I'm going to go with the bare bones Ultra Shield full containment seat. Still researching cages. I want to do some of the work myself like cutting and notching the straight sections, forming floor plates and maybe tack welding.
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  #52  
Old 06-24-2013, 07:51 AM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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Rollcage you say?

Kenny just did this. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...976&highlight=
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  #53  
Old 06-24-2013, 09:25 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Thanks, Patrick. I saw that thread and I've been looking at several over on the other bimmer site as well. If I was going to stick with DE events, I might have considered that cage but I do want to race so I'm planning on a completely welded cage (not that it's required, it's just safer).
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  #54  
Old 06-24-2013, 10:10 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I've already changed my mind on my target class. Regardless of whether I'll be competitive or not, I think I'll go with NASA's GTS class. The rules are so much simpler (power to weight mostly). I can build up the car as I have time and money.

I gotta go meet some of the GTS guys and get some more info.
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  #55  
Old 06-25-2013, 11:16 AM
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dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
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I've been debating whether to turn my 323is into a dedicated race car and get something else for a DD, or keep it as a DD and build up something else. Seems like there will probably be a few well-documented test cases finished by the time I'm able to afford another car. There's another project going on right here. I think the only real disadvantage over other E36 models would be the M52B25, assuming an engine swap isn't in the cards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimgood View Post
For my last session, which I got to drive solo, I turned the bloody ASC off. MUCH BETTER!
I couldn't believe how much faster the car felt the first time I disabled the ASC on the track. I'm surprised that adding an LSD didn't jump to the top of your to-do list, though.
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  #56  
Old 06-25-2013, 12:16 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtownmikebrown View Post
I've been debating whether to turn my 323is into a dedicated race car and get something else for a DD, or keep it as a DD and build up something else. Seems like there will probably be a few well-documented test cases finished by the time I'm able to afford another car. There's another project going on right here. I think the only real disadvantage over other E36 models would be the M52B25, assuming an engine swap isn't in the cards.
That's what I like about the GTS class. It's a simple power-to-weight rule. You can do anything to the car you like as long as the motor is from the same maker. You just have to accept the fact that there are going to be big budget racers in your class that can afford to throw money into their car (or at their mechanic).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtownmikebrown View Post
I couldn't believe how much faster the car felt the first time I disabled the ASC on the track. I'm surprised that adding an LSD didn't jump to the top of your to-do list, though.
There are any number of performance modifications that I'd love to make right now. They'll all have to wait. Safety stuff first. Then weight. Then seat time. Then suspension. Then tires. Then a cold air intake and stickers.
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  #57  
Old 06-26-2013, 08:59 AM
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Most folks around here completely remove ASC for their track cars.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #58  
Old 06-26-2013, 01:34 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I guess I should look up ASC delete.

I signed up for another track day at Summit Point on the Shenandoah Circuit on July 27. I hate that track but it will be good for me to force myself to learn it again. The last time I ran it was, wow, maybe 2004 or 2005 in my '02 WRX. Well, that's not entirely accurate. I did attempt to run it in 2006 but it was in a FFR race car that overheated and blew a head gasket on the first hard lap of the first session. That was a pisser!

I'd like to get the cage and seat installed before that. Seems like a tall order considering all the prep work that needs to get done before I can even start on the cage. I dread stripping the interior. First, I have no space to store the stuff I take out and second, stripping sound deadening adhesive sounds like a bit of a chore.

And we're talking about a fully welded race cage, not a bolt-in. Just preempting the guy that will inevitably post that he installed his "cage" in a weekend.
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  #59  
Old 08-23-2013, 11:08 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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So, I did the Shenandoah track day without any issues. I was required to get signed off again because it had been some time since I ran on that track. Got signed off in the second session...in the rain.

Yesterday I ordered the roll cage from Roll Cage Components. I also ordered a Kirkey full containment seat. This weekend I'm gutting the interior. I have to think about whether I want to do the front half of the cage. The door bars are NASCAR style bars that require gutting the door and I'm not quite ready to do that. My assumption is that if I do that, I also have to remove the window glass, motor and whatnot. But I don't have a garage or enclosed trailer yet and I'm only going to be doing DE events for the next year so, I don't really need the front half yet.

The problem is, if I don't do it all now (full cage), it's going to be harder to do later. Decisions, decisions.

Well, this is going to be an adventure for sure.
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  #60  
Old 08-23-2013, 04:47 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Damn it! The more I read about these cars the more I find about all the difficulties BMW built into it. EWS!!! F$%^!!

So I need to put a red label DME or the EWS bypass on my To Do list before that bites me in the ass.

The other day I noticed that there are 2012 and later 3.6L Chevy motors available from wrecked cars. These things come with 323 hp and 278 lbs/ft torque. If this BMW-interrelated-car-won't-start-because-the-airbag's-disabled-or-I-farted-on-the-seat gets under my skin too much, I might put the heartbeat of America under its hood. 'Course, I'll probably find out that there's just as much crap wired into the Chevy harness too. And, yes, I know about LS1 and other V8 swaps. I just like to be different.

The weekend officially began at 4 pm. But I got caught up reading a build thread over on the other site. After I got tired of that, I decided to go out to the car and remove the rear seat. Since the car is parked way over there and my tools are way over here, all I could bring myself to do was the seat bottom and the side panels. Damn I wish I had a garage.

Last edited by jimgood; 08-24-2013 at 03:22 AM.
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  #61  
Old 08-24-2013, 11:01 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I moved the car closer to the tools and started gutting the interior. Well, technically, I started last evening but I only did the rear seat bottom and side panels.

Today I got both seats out and the center console. Also removed the glove box (again) and the lower left dash panel.

I busted the plastic piece that covers the door sill on the driver's side. I HATE CLIPS!! It's not a big deal as I'm not going to use them but it would have been nice to keep intact in case someone else does. Even after busting the thing to get it off, I still have no idea what the correct way to remove it would be. Passenger side is going to get same treatment I guess.

Rear seats...out!


All I got was 2 cents!


Seats and console...out!




Obligatory shot of the refuse pile


Really? WTF? I can get almost any other relay from a junkyard but not an airbag sensor?
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  #62  
Old 08-25-2013, 04:27 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Made a little more progress today. Removed the remainder of the interior panels from the rear seating area, trunk, foot wells, headliner and 99% of the carpet (still two small pieces under the radio and heater core. Also removed the radio, speakers, pass. airbag, CD changer and armrest.

I put the dead pedal panel back in because it covers a lot of wire gizmos. I also left the plastic tunnels for the wiring in place on the floor. I will be driving this down to pick up the cage in a week or so and I don't want to be kicking things and stepping on wires.

Now comes the hard part; the tar.

It's getting there.





This is just the carpeting and the footwell panels. I already took the headliner and a bunch of other stuff to the dump.

Last edited by jimgood; 08-25-2013 at 04:41 PM.
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  #63  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:27 AM
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Great progress! Considering a small car port or something, in lieu of a garage?

I think Chip built a whole barn to play with his cars.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #64  
Old 08-27-2013, 07:02 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petriej View Post
Great progress! Considering a small car port or something, in lieu of a garage?

I think Chip built a whole barn to play with his cars.
I have considered that and a whole slew of other options. You'd think with a twenty acre property, I could do anything. But there are financial, spousal and aesthetic considerations that keep getting in the way.
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  #65  
Old 08-27-2013, 07:33 AM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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Wait, what is happening to that center arm rest?
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  #66  
Old 08-27-2013, 03:29 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
Wait, what is happening to that center arm rest?
Want it? PM me and we'll discuss details and which parts you want.
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  #67  
Old 08-28-2013, 07:00 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I put the driver's seat back in and took the car for a spin. Everything seems to be working fine. I see that I have an airbag light on. I'm not sure if that's because the passenger airbag is removed or if the sensor under the driver's seat is not connected. No matter. As long as the car still drives that light can burn all it wants.

Amazing how noisy the car is with all the interior stuff gone. There's a squeak in the rear that I never knew I had. Non-rythmic. Associated with suspension movement. Anti-roll bar bushing? Control arm bushing?

I was going to start tackling the tar this weekend but I'm more inclined to start fabricating the roll cage feet. I'm going with plates on the floor, then boxes on top of the plates then the cage mounted to the boxes. That's a lot more fun to work on than tar removal.
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  #68  
Old 08-29-2013, 09:39 AM
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My rear shock mount bushings squeaked like crazy just before they failed. Anecdotal, I know, but worth checking out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
2005 X5 4.8is Le Mans/Black/6spd Steptragic
1999 M3 Cabrio TiAg Metallic/Dove Grey/Black 5 Speed Manual
-------------------------------------------------------------------
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2004 645Ci Mineral Silver Metallic/Black 6MT RIP 04/2011
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  #69  
Old 08-30-2013, 03:03 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petriej View Post
My rear shock mount bushings squeaked like crazy just before they failed. Anecdotal, I know, but worth checking out.
Thanks. I'll take a look at those as well.
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  #70  
Old 08-31-2013, 07:49 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I'm stripping wiring out from the rear and working my way forward. I removed the "HiFi Amplifier" and I'm trying to pull out the harness. Integrated with that harness is a white wire connecting to some kind of module on the driver's side C-pillar that is obviously part of the rear window defogger.

From what I can tell in the wiring diagrams, the antennae and the rear window defroster are integrated. In the wiring diagram, it shows the white wire as connecting to the defogger, the radio and the amplifier.

Does anyone know if I disconnect this wire, will the defogger still be operational?
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Last edited by jimgood; 08-31-2013 at 10:12 AM. Reason: spellingus
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  #71  
Old 08-31-2013, 08:57 AM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I think one of the assemblers of my car had horrific BO. I noticed the odor after I took out the carpet. It's embedded in the sound deadening. I was sitting on some where the rear seats used to be and now my pants have the funk on 'em. Geebus! It's like that Jerry Seinfeld episode! You'd think after 15 years it would dissipate.
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  #72  
Old 09-01-2013, 02:48 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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I made more progress, albeit slow. I'm trying to keep the harnesses intact as I pull them out rather than cutting wires. I just feel like it reduces the likelihood that I'll have issues. So far, I've only had one issue. I started the car this morning to move it over near the house and it was running odd; wouldn't idle. I had to keep the engine revved to keep in running. I'm pretty sure it's because I had disconnected a ground wire that connects to the rear bulk head. I reconnected that this afternoon and took the car for a drive and it was fine.

I had two small connectors (3-pin I think) that I didn't label. Whatever they were connected to is gone so it should have been a stereo component but for the life of me I can't determine which one. Anyway, the wires to these connectors are intertwined with the lighting harness. I want to leave the lighting harness in place (duh) so I ended up cutting the wires on those connectors and spent a lot of time trying to carefully pull them out of the harness.

I got my answer to my question in post #70 above. That wire is related to the antennae so out it came.

I decided to cut the wires going to the speakers in the doors. It's just too much hassle to try to pull that connector out intact.

I'm at the point now where I have to remove the dash to get the remainder of the stereo harness out. I just don't see any way to remove it otherwise. So that's my research project for tonight (how to remove the dash). Tomorrow I'll pull it out, remove whatever wiring I can then I'll button it back up and start on the sound deadening tar. For now, I'm focusing on the areas where the cage has to be welded.

Edit: I thought I'd also state my process for removing the wiring, not that I'm an expert as this is the first time I've ever tried to build my own race car. Basically, I'm moving from the back to the front. I remove every electrical component that doesn't belong in a race car (dome lights, stereo equipment, airbags and sensors, etc). If I don't know what it is, I leave it in place. Whenever I disconnect something, I write what it was connected to on a piece of tape and wrap the tape around the connector or the wire on that connector. So far, so good.

Last edited by jimgood; 09-02-2013 at 01:16 PM.
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  #73  
Old 09-01-2013, 04:20 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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wow....lots of work for sure.



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  #74  
Old 09-02-2013, 01:39 PM
jimgood jimgood is online now
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Thanks!

I didn't make much progress today. The instructions for removing the dash include removing the steering wheel which requires removing the airbag, which I was going to do anyway. However, the screws are deeply recessed in holes behind the steering wheel and I don't have one of these in a T30 size:


I have one of these, which is too fat and short to reach to the effing screws:


I checked the nearby hardware stores and no luck so I ordered one from McMaster.
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  #75  
Old 09-02-2013, 01:50 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Jim, I know you already ordered it, but do you have a Harbor Freight near you? Or O'Reillys or Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts, or NAPA? Any of those would have a whole set, probably for what you paid for one from Northern. I like Northern, but they are real proud ($$$) of their tools.
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