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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:29 PM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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BMW E46 Oil Consumption & Possible Fix

Can someone explain to me how this is possible, I'm willing to believe in aliens if there is a logical explanation (pics attached)
I don't recall spilling oil while topping her up...
Valve cover gasket was replaced (with an original BMW replacement) about 1.5 years Ago (less than 30k miles ago)
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  #2  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:48 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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I believe your best guess is the inner sections of the VCG are leaking. Did you do the job personally? I'm looking to see if someone skipped replacing them.

Have you pulled the coil packs to look inside the wells?

Cracked VC?

Spilled oil when topping up?

Last edited by GoForthFast; 06-13-2013 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:24 AM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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i replaced it myself and torqued the bolts to spec... i changed the inner section as well...

i pulled out the first 2 coils.. the spark plug wells were dry....
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sannouni View Post
i replaced it myself and torqued the bolts to spec... i changed the inner section as well...

i pulled out the first 2 coils.. the spark plug wells were dry....
The inner sections only go on a certain way and will leak if they're not on there right or seated properly - there's a longer notch on the end of each of those inner pieces that has to go on either end of the cover. Mine did the same thing first time around. It was a Victor Reinz gasket so I had to redo it anyway, but I too was surprised at the oil on top of the cover.

It still could be a cracked cover too.
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Last edited by ahull; 06-14-2013 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:24 AM
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It still could be a cracked cover too.
This is my guess. I performed this job last fall around 113,000 miles and couldnt figure out why I was still leaking oil (it kept showing on the top cover). It turned out to be a small chip on one of the circles that compresses down on the center holes, so I just ended up buying a new cover. After so many heating and cooling cycles they just get brittle and I have been leak free since. They tend to be a bit pricey, so I shopped around and found the cheapest one at bmwmercedesparts.com for around $170. Just be sure to ask them if it is backordered before ordering because they didnt tell me and I ended up waiting about 3 weeks for it.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:40 AM
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This was the first sign that my car's original valve cover had failed. The cover had apparently warped and was applying uneven pressure to one of the inner nut seals, causing oil to leak out onto the top side of the cover. A new cover and gasket set solved the problem.

Last edited by G. P. Burdell; 06-15-2013 at 07:43 AM.
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  #7  
Old 06-15-2013, 12:40 PM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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ordered a new gasket and rubber washers (the ones that apply pressure between the bolts and the gasket) ... i'll take out the valve cover and inspect it for warping and/or chips...

Thanks for the input, i'm still really confused as to how the oil got to the top of the valve cover....
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:35 PM
cvx5832 cvx5832 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sannouni View Post
ordered a new gasket and rubber washers (the ones that apply pressure between the bolts and the gasket) ... i'll take out the valve cover and inspect it for warping and/or chips...

Thanks for the input, i'm still really confused as to how the oil got to the top of the valve cover....
If it's not coming from the spark plug holes (indicating VCG), then the cover itself is suspect. You wouldn't be the first with a cracked valve cover.

You also say so yourself that you didn't spill any oil during filling. Even if you did the filler neck has a gasket, and the beauty covers themselves have a foam gasket bead between it and the valve cover. I really doubt it's that.

You can inspect the cover if you want, but without specialized equipment I doubt you'll spot a hairline crack on a black background such as the valve cover. If you do, post it here, it would be interesting to see where exactly your cover broke.
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvx5832 View Post
If it's not coming from the spark plug holes (indicating VCG), then the cover itself is suspect. You wouldn't be the first with a cracked valve cover.

You also say so yourself that you didn't spill any oil during filling. Even if you did the filler neck has a gasket, and the beauty covers themselves have a foam gasket bead between it and the valve cover. I really doubt it's that.

You can inspect the cover if you want, but without specialized equipment I doubt you'll spot a hairline crack on a black background such as the valve cover. If you do, post it here, it would be interesting to see where exactly your cover broke.
When the valve covers usually crack, they crack on the second to last bolt right above the exhaust manifold. A crack will be very easy to spot. I have replaced many of them.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2013, 09:44 PM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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i'm having to add a liter (around a quart) of oil every 300 km (200 miles).... No loss of power... no hesitation or rough engine, and no check engine light... Also i can not spot the freaking leak... where could it be ... ??????????????

and shouldnt the leak from the cover gasket fall into the exhaust (as in shouldn't i be able to smell it from inside the car with the air conditioning on ??)
and would it make sense to loose this much from the valve cover??? please advice
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sannouni View Post
i'm having to add a liter (around a quart) of oil every 300 km (200 miles).... No loss of power... no hesitation or rough engine, and no check engine light... Also i can not spot the freaking leak... where could it be ... ??????????????

and shouldnt the leak from the cover gasket fall into the exhaust (as in shouldn't i be able to smell it from inside the car with the air conditioning on ??)
and would it make sense to loose this much from the valve cover??? please advice
Take a paper towel and blot around the edge of the cover to be sure. How old is your CCV system? Oil filter housing gasket? Usually you do smell a vc leak.

Did u take the plastic belly pan off to inspect the bottom if the engine?
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Last edited by ahull; 06-16-2013 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sannouni View Post
i'm having to add a liter (around a quart) of oil every 300 km (200 miles).... No loss of power... no hesitation or rough engine, and no check engine light... Also i can not spot the freaking leak... where could it be ... ??????????????

and shouldnt the leak from the cover gasket fall into the exhaust (as in shouldn't i be able to smell it from inside the car with the air conditioning on ??)
and would it make sense to loose this much from the valve cover??? please advice
You and I had a discussion regarding this on one of your other related threads. A CVV (even a new one) with a blocked oil drain line (dipstick tube) will cause excessive pressure inside the valve cover, eventually (usually) blowing out the VCG in the process.

Due to the fact that the plastic valve cover also becomes brittle and weaker with age, the possibility exists that internal pressure might also cause stress cracks in the cover, creating passageways for the oil to escape....
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:21 AM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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I'm just doing my homework before i remove and check the oil dipstick tube.... I understand the functioning, but is there a cutaway of the CCV (to show what's inside, i know i saw one more than a year ago, but i cant locate it), i'm trying to assess that, if any of the hoses are blocked (lets say the dipstick tube), would that cause the CCV to fail completely (as in, needs replacing), or would i be able to continue using the current CCV with the repaired piping (if any)...



ahull, the CCV is less than 2 years old (replaced January 2012), with all piping ...
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:25 PM
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I had the same sort of oil leak. Coming from the first stud in the middle of the VC. It filled all those pockets up with oil all the way down to the back. Then onto the exhaust. I just sealed the rubber gromet with RTV.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:51 PM
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Findings:

  • I pulled out the spark plugs and they seem to be contaminated (pics attached)
  • I really dislike the condition of the top surface of the pistons (seems wet with oil)...
  • Also pulled out the dipstick tube tested the flow (video attached), then replaced the sealing o-ring and re installed
  • took pictures of the condition of the DISA and inside of the intake manifold (an oil film is present)...

now to this (the picture with the CCV hose that go to the intake manifold, top of the engine), i havent seen much discussion about this, when i pulled it out, it was relatively wet with oil... i'm assuming that since it's an intake manifold, the flow should be dry going from the oil separator to the intake...






guys, any suggestions on what to check next would be great.... again, i'm loosing a lot of oil in a relatively short distance (one quart in less than 300 miles)... with no loss of power, no check engine light, and no hesitation at idle or otherwise...


Thanks RainyRider, i gave them a 1/4 of a turn each to see if that changes anything, if it does, then i'll do as you recommended
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:39 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sannouni View Post

now to this (the picture with the CCV hose that go to the intake manifold, top of the engine), i havent seen much discussion about this, when i pulled it out, it was relatively wet with oil... i'm assuming that since it's an intake manifold, the flow should be dry going from the oil separator to the intake...
Yes the tube leading up to the top of the intake manifold should not have a lot of oil in it. Supposed to be separated by the CVV. So yours may be shot.

And in your vid, you did not show the bottom of your dipstick tube where it is double walled. That's where the clogs are mostly found. Got to make sure both channels are clear.

Last edited by GoForthFast; 06-17-2013 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:28 AM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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Quote:
GoForthFast: And in your vid, you did not show the bottom of your dipstick tube where it is double walled. That's where the clogs are mostly found. Got to make sure both channels are clear.
do you mean the pictures below ???
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:30 AM
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Re: pics. Yes, That's the passage that must run clear.

If that was good and CCV is only two yrs old then you're probably good on CCV. Plug doesn't look wet w oil looks ok. Plug well does look a little shmutzy like vc leaked there a tiny bit. Disa will have a tacky residue on it. Will look like wet oil but is not. Looks ok to me.
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Last edited by ahull; 06-18-2013 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:07 AM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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what about the first 2 pictures in Post #15, if you look at the centre of the pic "where the spark plug should be", you can actually see the surface of the piston, it's full of "oil sludge/carbon/not sure what it is"... why is that, and how can i get rid of it ? (is there a preferred product, similar to Seafoam that we can use through the intake or vacuum lines to clean up the gunk)... it looked either wet or glazed, when i changed the spark plugs (about 2 years ago), the piston surface looked much cleaner (it was a dark grey matt surface, but not shiny black and full of grains, as in the pictures above)

why would there be oil at the oil separator intake return line (picture #4 in post #15), I'm only guessing at this point, but if there is oil getting up there, then it would make it to the valves and eventually burn off in the combustion chambers...

is a compression test necessary at this point ??

the spark plugs look pretty bad from what i've seen, the burning could be good, but there's thick residue build up on the 4-ground-electrodes
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:31 AM
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I'm viewing on the phone and can't see that closely on the pictures so I didn't look beyond the plug wells.

Has your thermostat failed in that time allowing the car to run a little too cool ? Driving habits change favoring more short trips? Both encourage sludge build up.

Plugs should be a grey ashy color. Looking a little more closely they do appear to have a few dark spots on them. Not bad though.
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Last edited by ahull; 06-18-2013 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:51 AM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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I replaced the entire cooling system minus the radiator (so hoses, tank, water pump, thermostat) in December 2011 (also less than 2 years ago), i do make short trips, but that's not the bulk of the daily drive (the car is driven on the highway for half an hour twice daily + 2-3 short trips)

take a closer look at the first 2 pictures in post #15 and you will understand my concern...
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:22 PM
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Time for some hard driving and seafoam or other fuel system cleaner. Do you run premium fuel?

Also, the oil looks like normal seepage from where you might spill a little when filling it. There is a rubber gasket around the neck of the oil fill hole, but it doesn't do a great job.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:44 PM
sannouni sannouni is offline
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I always run 91 octane or higher...

i'm considering a piston soak to clean out the gunk from the combustion chambers, has anyone done it ?? what do you guys use ... Seafoam ?? any recommendations?
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:48 PM
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I see it now. Yeah looks a little cruddy. And sounds like you don't have short trip syndrome. I have no real experience with the engine treatments.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sannouni View Post
I always run 91 octane or higher...

i'm considering a piston soak to clean out the gunk from the combustion chambers, has anyone done it ?? what do you guys use ... Seafoam ?? any recommendations?
I`ve never been a fan of products like Seafoam, but that doesn`t mean they`re totally useless (maybe ). I would just try something I`m familiar with, and that has a good track record, (like Techron), and then take the car out for a good long run in a gear that will keep the engine spinning at 4000-5000 RPMs, with occasional blasts up to redline.
This is the traditional, old-school mechanic`s technique for "de-carbonizing" the engine....nothing like prolonged high RPMs to blow the crud out....

You seem to be going about this the right way....I wish I had a better answer for you. Maybe one of our resident wizards will find the right answer....
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