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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 06-21-2013, 04:51 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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ABS / DTC Module Removal DIY and Repair Review

This topic has been covered in quite a few threads but as usual nobody ever comes back to post the fix. I hope to knock out a few things with one thread.

The Issue:
The Bosch 5.7 modules in our cars (not just 7 series, 5 series and I believe 3 series as well) have a huge tendency to fail. If you take it to the dealer your looking at $1200-$1500 with parts an labor. A lot of threads I found were having symptoms of the ABS, Parking break light, and traction control (DTC/DSC) all coming on at the same time. That is the most common way it fails. In my case it was the DTC light only. Drove it for over a year that way, nothing else failed. Rest assured, 99% of the time its the module that's broken regardless of what codes you pull. I pulled a code for my pre charge pump, its working fine. I wont go into huge detail about what breaks inside the module, just know that it boils down to a crappy design that breaks the gold/solder contact points over time.

What will not function:
With the module pulled quite a few systems will not work. This includes: ABS, Speedo, Cruise control, Power steering, Traction control, Stability control, Dynamic drive, and apparently you car will not record your added mileage. Other than having your dash lit up like a xmas tree and no power steering the car is perfectly drivable.

The Repair:
The module is almost always reparable and will save you lots of money and time in the long run. The company I chose to go with was Module Repair Pro. You can find them on eBay or go directly to the website (modulerepairpro.com) *Please note that lots of companies offer this and that I am not affiliated with them in any way shape or form. This is simply who I chose to go with. Explained further below*
Alittle about my experience. The eBay listing ($95) was cheaper than the website price. The company had good email and over the phone communication. Due to eBay they did overnight my module to my billing address (a bit of a hassle). All - in - all it was a great experience. Sent my module Monday and had it back in my hands Thursday (overnight does cost more)

The DIY Removal:
What you will need:
30 minutes of free time (I do computer repair for a living and it took me about half an hour. I'm no expert when it comes to cars)
A T20 and T25 torx bit (star key)
A Philips screw driver
and a Metric wrench set (I used a #10 but don't know if that's just a number or a specific universal size)

1) Grab a Red Bull or your favorite energy drink. Open and enjoy!
2) Remove the following parts in picture #1
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3) Follow instructions in picture #2
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4)Follow instructions in picture #3
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5)Follow instructions in picture #4
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6)Follow instructions in picture #5
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After removing the ABS unit you may want to cover the exposed plugs and wire. I opted not to do this since mine was only going to be out for a few days. W/E you decide, just remember that the engine bay gets HOT so using something like saran wrap would be a stupid idea. Best of luck on this part After the ABS module is removed, reverse the instructions to re-secure your coolant tank and air box/filter!!

Questions? PM me. When you receive your module back simple reverse the instructions.
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  #2  
Old 08-27-2013, 09:37 AM
dunnrite1111 dunnrite1111 is offline
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dtc

does the module have to be programed after its re-installed ?
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  #3  
Old 08-27-2013, 02:33 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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No, not with your original, repaired module.
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2013, 12:22 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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I have the same symptoms my traction control doesn't work dynamic drive, the parking brake light is on. My speedo doesn't work. I removed my abs module and this is what it looks like. it looks fine nothing is corroded or rusted. Could you post a picture of yours after removal but before repair. Do you recall any error codes your car gave off when you had this problem I have p1890, P1721, P152b. I cleared them but I do not know if they will come.




Driver side speed sensor, this looks fine to me but then again it could be bad anyway to tell? I check realoem and my 2005 745li doesnt have rear speed sensors right or am I stupid?



Another abs related component?? Could this be the culprit?



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  #5  
Old 09-05-2013, 12:28 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Sandman,
The part that breaks is inside the main housing. It has to be cut open. You will then be looking for broken solder points. I will be taking my module back out. The repair of my module form those guys ended up not working. So I plan to re-cut the module open and just to the repair myself. Kinda disappointed in their service at this point. The only code I had was for my pre-charge pump. I don't know the code # since I was using INPA.

When I cut my module back open again, I will take picture and post them. It may be a few weeks though since the car is my daily driver.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2013, 12:43 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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your going to cut the plastic cover for the housing? just curious does the solder points over heat and undo itself? do you know if the speed sensor is bad or anything? from the picture i posted or do you know what that other sensor looking thing is? my driver side break seems to be rubbing against the rotor do you think that is cause of the abs fault?
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2013, 12:46 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Yes, the solder points over heat and break. Your speed sensor is more than likely fine. I'm getting that speed sensor error now. I don't think your pad rubbing would throw the ABS light. Really not sure though. Ill know more in a week once I take my unit apart.
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2013, 12:50 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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Ill keep looking for the update. My last question do you think I should send in the module? or nah
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2013, 12:54 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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I would wait to send in the module until I figure out mine. However, do you have soldering skills? If not then I would try to clear all the codes. If they come back instantly then its the module. In which case I wold send it in if you dont have the skills to solder the contact points. I sent my module in the first time and its broken, so I have to figure out if I can repair it myself since I dont want to send the module back out. They did say they would repair it under warranty but I do computer repair for a living and soldering stuff it not hard for me. I also waited waay to long to send it back. So either way, I dont know how difficult the job is until I have time to get into my module. And^ yes you do have to cut the module open.
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:03 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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I am not an expert at soldering but I might be able to do it. Did the company cut the module open as well to fix it? did your module look corroded or rusted?
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:06 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Yes they cut it open, mine looked clean like yours when I took it off the car.
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:21 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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i cleared the codes and the one code came back p1721... none of the others did though. I probably gonna send it in.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:30 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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What code scanner do you have?
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:31 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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its the cheap obd2 bluetooth scanner from Amazon
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:32 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Mind posting a link? I am using a INPA setup to a laptop, but it just want something basic, the INPA is way over my head.
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:33 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-.../dp/B005NLQAHS


it works with android phones tablets or I believe laptops via bluetooth. you gotta download this app torque they have a free version and paid one with more features look for it online.

cheaper

http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Blueto...=pd_sim_auto_3

Last edited by sandman83; 09-05-2013 at 01:38 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:38 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Do you know if its mac compatible?
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  #18  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:44 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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try this

its says not for os unless your phone is jailbroken but I dont know

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/s...d-obd-software

but you gotta find an app that will sync up. I have an android phone so i was straight.
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2013, 01:45 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Awesome! Thanks for the links!
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  #20  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:00 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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samadkins29, you may find that attempting the fix yourself will likely end up in more damage or if you're lucky, the fix may not last. The goo covering/cleaning, hair thin wires (some silver?) are among the big challenges not typical to common soldering skills.

See this thread:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=1#post5143420

If MODULE REPAIR PRO INC has a lifetime warranty, why not use them and make them fix it ?
When you received the module back, did it work at first or it never worked after they attempted fix ?

I had the light trifecta last year, and I used ModuleMaster.com (recommended by many people on this board) to repair my module. They cost more ($300) but so far mine hasn't had any problems with 2 HOT summers in Dallas on the rebuilt module.
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  #21  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:11 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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It works until the car gets HOT. I will prolly send it back to them, I just wanted to avoid shipping it. But owell. Anyways, when the car is cold, everything works. When it gets hot it breaks. So it has to be a bad solder point. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. Kinda pissed that it wasnt fixed the first time.
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:17 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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Also, if you're looking for a generic OBD2 reader for iPhone&Mac, a WIFI ELM387 will satisfy both and there are many IOS & OSX apps now that support WIFI ELM387.
Here is the one I got for ~$20 (yes, this type are almost all Chinese clones), and it does work for me. The live PID/sec is quite slow on my BMW compared to a test run in did on a Ford&Toyota. Still looking to optimize some settings..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-Wi-Fi...item51afa79377

But, I find generic OBD2 to be somewhat limiting even for simple things (live PID, ..) compared to my BMW cable with GT1/DIS & INPA.
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:33 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samadkins29 View Post
It works until the car gets HOT. I will prolly send it back to them, I just wanted to avoid shipping it. But owell. Anyways, when the car is cold, everything works. When it gets hot it breaks. So it has to be a bad solder point. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. Kinda pissed that it wasnt fixed the first time.
What that also the failure symptom of your module before you sent it in ?

That was mine .. when I started the car, no lights. After ~15min rush hour traffic, ABS light came on and the other lights followed depending on how hot the engine bay was.

During a 1hr highway trip, I had no lights/errors while I was moving 70+ mph, but as soon as I slowed down on side streets, lights galore ...

That's my humble opinion, take if off and send it in. You'll waste more time thinking about it (I let it go for about 3 months), researching the fix, ....

I drove mine without ABS module for 7 work days ... really the only thing perceptible is the Servotronic steering assist at low speeds (and no ABS so I had to drive somewhat civil) ...
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:37 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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I feel like I could never get INPA to work properly and/or I dont understand it. What I would like is a simple solution that will let me read and clear any/all codes. And give me abit more detail than a regular OBD scanner.

All in all I have waay to many thing to fix right now. (One of my rotors is warped, ABS unit, CEL for the 2nd air system)
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Old 09-05-2013, 04:38 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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I had only the DTC light (constant). The module came back in worse shape then I sent it out in. But its been my fault for not getting back to it. The car is my daily driver.
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