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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 09-05-2013, 05:18 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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I would make them fix it or refund your money.... Did they perform a bench test before shipping back to you ? (I don't recall if the Bosch 5.7 was bench testable ...).
I know it's a pain to deal with this on your daily driver ... I kinda got used to driving without the ABS module for the few days ...

As for the OBD2 reader, the generic ELM387 readers (WIFI/BT/USB) will give you the ability to read/clear generic OBD2 error codes and some live data parameters. Yes, they are simple to use, but if you are in need of REALLY debugging BMW error codes for repair, GT1/DIS is the best (from my experience). It was a royal pain the get setup on Win7 x64 last year, but now one or 2 of the main USB kCAN cable guys have streamlined their installation and I hear it's much easier. Using DIS to read errors and even run though the built in diagnostic troubleshooting is nice ...
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  #27  
Old 09-05-2013, 05:27 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Well I made arrangements. Im going to pull the unit on Sunday and ship it back Monday. Then I get to deal with my warped rotor. Then after that I get to deal with my CEL (Which will most likely mean I have to buy the AGA kit) and possibly the vacuum lines, valve seals, and ccv's. After that's all done I get to fix the tie rods, figure out the rear seat headrest short, replace the seal on the sunroof, and figure out if my alternator is clicking, guibo joint, etc.... .... then sell the damn thing.... ugh wish I had a second car
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  #28  
Old 09-05-2013, 08:36 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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Good, hopefully you'll have better outcome. If not, push them for resolution (refund/replacement) as stated in their Warranty. If it really comes down to it, I know it will be dragging on, but consider using some of the other recommended module repair guys; BBA-Reman, ATE, or ModuleMasters.

At times, it can be a love/hate relationship. I'm at 97K on my 06 750i (7/05 build) and it's running/handling almost like new (all new OEM Sachs suspension components throughout about 1 year ago).
New rotor should be quick.. I've stayed with BMW rotors/pads ... yes they dust more, but the stopping power is incredible.
Sunroof seal is easy (replace once in warranty, and also just recently), but I've never liked to drive with roof shade open due to the increased "air noise".. I just accepted it.
VCG replaced recently, no bad at all (haven't had smoking/valve seal to worry about yet .... ) and guibo was slightly a pain with 1 person due to the long exhaust/shaft connections.
If your looking for clicking, check your water pump first if it hasn't been replaced ... more likely the cause or the pullys making noise......
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  #29  
Old 09-05-2013, 09:32 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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What did you have to do to do the Valve seal guides?
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  #30  
Old 09-06-2013, 11:55 AM
tmoorez tmoorez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkent View Post
I would make them fix it or refund your money.... Did they perform a bench test before shipping back to you ? (I don't recall if the Bosch 5.7 was bench testable ...).
I know it's a pain to deal with this on your daily driver ... I kinda got used to driving without the ABS module for the few days ...

As for the OBD2 reader, the generic ELM387 readers (WIFI/BT/USB) will give you the ability to read/clear generic OBD2 error codes and some live data parameters. Yes, they are simple to use, but if you are in need of REALLY debugging BMW error codes for repair, GT1/DIS is the best (from my experience). It was a royal pain the get setup on Win7 x64 last year, but now one or 2 of the main USB kCAN cable guys have streamlined their installation and I hear it's much easier. Using DIS to read errors and even run though the built in diagnostic troubleshooting is nice ...
Do you have a link for the streamlined install or are you referring to bmtechnic out of the UK?
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  #31  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:02 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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Originally Posted by samadkins29 View Post
What did you have to do to do the Valve seal guides?
I only had to do the VCG (valve cover gasket) repair, not the $$ valve seal
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  #32  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:07 PM
gkent gkent is offline
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Originally Posted by tmoorez View Post
Do you have a link for the streamlined install or are you referring to bmtechnic out of the UK?
Many people recommend bmtechnic for their support and new software.

I bought my cable over 1 year ago from several recommendations on ebay, also from UK. Recently, I got an email from them about their new streamlined installation ...

Here is their link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=161093224273
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  #33  
Old 09-07-2013, 07:35 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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I hope they dont screw mine up.... praying to the lord
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  #34  
Old 09-16-2013, 06:33 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Well it was fixed correctly the second time around I wish it was done right the first time, but hey, it never goes right 100% of the time... I'm just happy it works.
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  #35  
Old 09-16-2013, 06:50 PM
tmoorez tmoorez is offline
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I just sent mine to ModuleMaster today...
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  #36  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:36 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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I got mine back but I havent Installed it yet maybe not until sunday. However Im not pleased with their handling of the module. Some of the silver cylinders or "whatever" they are got a little bent up somewhere in the process, I will post pictures and update after the installation
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  #37  
Old 09-24-2013, 08:17 AM
gkent gkent is offline
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sandman83, who did you use ? They should have sent the module back with something rigid covering the solenoids/opening.

Document the anomaly and let them know what you found, whether or not you see an issue after re-installation.
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  #38  
Old 09-24-2013, 10:14 AM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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I used the same people as samakins29, modulerepairpro.com. I will document what I can. I installed the module but I didn't drive the car for that long. But for now all the lights went away except the triangle with ! and arrow and I still am getting the error code p1721. Speedo, power steering and parking break works. I might need to drive the car around for a bit and let you all know. But if anyone knows anything about the p1721 code that would be helpful its not on any lists or even searchable Im kinda stuck, so im going to looking at speed sensors.
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  #39  
Old 09-24-2013, 11:09 AM
gkent gkent is offline
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Did you clear the error codes first ?

It appears that OBD code P1721 is related to incorrect 1st gear ratio or speed sensor, but i wouldn't rely on the OBD reading. When I was researching my module issues last year, some were getting speed sensor errors codes; some related to the module, some related to the actual speed sensors.

Do you have the BMW cable/software I mentioned above ? I highly recommend you get this to effectively troubleshoot and are able to give us more specific BMW information.
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  #40  
Old 09-24-2013, 11:55 AM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Sand, you will need to clear the DTC code manually. It doesn't go away after repair. I would reset all the codes before you purchase anything. Sorry that you had trouble with them, both times mine was packaged correctly with cardboard covering the internal components.

I got rid of my Laptop/INPA setup and am now just using this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151078314043 - does everything I need.

I will add that the OBD code you received is likely for the right/front speed sensor, which will trigger itself when you pull the ABS module. Clearing the codes should take care of everything.
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Last edited by samadkins29; 09-24-2013 at 12:05 PM.
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  #41  
Old 09-24-2013, 05:35 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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How does the speed sensor go bad. Sorry I cannot give proper information but what does incorrect gear ratio mean? My car drives perfect fine no drive train problems. I haven't driven it far. I reset the codes. How do you clear the DTC code with the OBD reader? I checked the speed sensor but it looks fine, I dunno I guess I can replace it. if it doesnt work but is there a speed sensor on the right as well?

As for the damage its just a little bent up. however it fit in and everything else seems to be fine so I guess its okay.

Last edited by sandman83; 09-24-2013 at 05:36 PM.
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  #42  
Old 09-24-2013, 05:50 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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It doesnt go bad. When the ABS unit is pulled, the car cant find the sensor and throws a code. Like the DTC code, they dont reset themselves even if the unit/connection is restored. You will need to use INPA to reset it. Standard OBD wont do anything. I would purchase the OBD code scanner I linked too, since it runs a mobile version of INPA. Really sweet unit. Was able to clear my codes w/o issue instead of having to hookup my laptop. Its also nice since it gives a clear description of the issue instead of just a plain OBD code.

That being said, if you need it reset right away, you will need to take it to a BMW shop near you and have them reset the codes. Try not to pay more than $40.
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  #43  
Old 09-25-2013, 11:34 AM
gkent gkent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samadkins29 View Post
I got rid of my Laptop/INPA setup and am now just using this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151078314043 - does everything I need.
sam, interesting.. I'd consider it if it has INPA-like live readings. My regular OBD-WiFi module/iPhone App only shows some of the PIDs, and then, some are converted to OBD2 .. (not like INPA/DIS)
I tried to find some documentation but nothing really came up.

Can you tell me (or show screenshots) of the most commonly used IPNA analog value 1-3 screens ?

Analog value1 : batteryV, RPM, Intake air temp, coolant in/out temp, air mass flow, throttle angle %, pedal pot value
Analog value2 : Engine roughness #s cyl 1-8
Analog value3 : O2 sensor values. Before cats 1/2; After cats 1/2, O2 integrator 1/2, Additive 1/2, Mult 1/2

Which adaptations can it clear ? Fuel, tranny, ...

THanks.
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  #44  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:00 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Originally Posted by gkent View Post
sam, interesting.. I'd consider it if it has INPA-like live readings. My regular OBD-WiFi module/iPhone App only shows some of the PIDs, and then, some are converted to OBD2 .. (not like INPA/DIS)
I tried to find some documentation but nothing really came up.

Can you tell me (or show screenshots) of the most commonly used IPNA analog value 1-3 screens ?

Analog value1 : batteryV, RPM, Intake air temp, coolant in/out temp, air mass flow, throttle angle %, pedal pot value
Analog value2 : Engine roughness #s cyl 1-8
Analog value3 : O2 sensor values. Before cats 1/2; After cats 1/2, O2 integrator 1/2, Additive 1/2, Mult 1/2

Which adaptations can it clear ? Fuel, tranny, ...

THanks.
I can get those for you. Im working the rest of the week but will have time Saturday. I plan to write a full review on it. I think it will do everything for about 90% of the people on this forum. I know we have a fair amount of guys who do programming and need the SSS and DIS programs. But for the average DIYer it should be perfect. I had the full INPA,GT1,DIS, SSS setup with cable but I could only get INPA to work correctly. That entire setup was over $300 with the laptop. All I wanted was to be able to see what codes I had and a better description of the code. Whats nice about the unit it it gives you actual description. For example, I have the P0491/P0492 OBD codes. On the unit it actually tells me Secondary air flow Bank 1/ Secondary air flow Bank 2. So waaay more descriptive than a standard hand held unit. I also found it easier to navigate than INPA (some of which was in German on the laptop).

I stumbled upon it by accident. Someone posted a link to a cable on some UK website. I decided to dig around the site some more and found the C110. The unit/company is from China, which is prolly why nobody has heard of it. Alot of junk OBD stuff comes from China.

Either way, ill update you once I get the review done and have what you asked for.
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Last edited by samadkins29; 09-25-2013 at 12:01 PM.
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  #45  
Old 09-25-2013, 07:21 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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Are you sure you need inpa for this? Should I try this, hopefully I do not get in trouble for posting another forums link on here but they say there is away to reset the dtc using this method.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360706
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  #46  
Old 09-25-2013, 07:29 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Originally Posted by sandman83 View Post
Are you sure you need inpa for this? Should I try this, hopefully I do not get in trouble for posting another forums link on here but they say there is away to reset the dtc using this method.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360706
Although that method does work on our cars. Its not the correct menu.
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  #47  
Old 09-25-2013, 08:04 PM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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I am going to try it then worse comes to worse ill just buy the obd you said. Do you think pepboys could reset the code?
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  #48  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:06 AM
sandman83 sandman83 is offline
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Hey so my battery died. After I charged the battery I turned the car on and all the lights went away, I drove the car around and no lights came back everything seems to be working. Samadkins29 you saved me, I cant believe the fix was really that easy. One thing I learned is I guess you can unplug the battery and force the car to reset everything in case some people do not have the inpa setup. Thanks again for the help
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  #49  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:50 PM
jimmy tran jimmy tran is offline
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hi

hi i got a bmw e92 2007my car recently got an issue DCS and DTC driving stability control system,including drive off assistant and run flat indicator,you know how to fix this?sometimes it appear and disappear,thanks
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  #50  
Old 10-24-2013, 03:59 PM
bchesse bchesse is offline
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Just to add my experience to this thread, I had my module act up late last year on my 2002 530i. I had all the lights go off as usual, sometime the cruise worked, sometimes not. Pulled codes and said ABS sensor however many times what happens as in my case the module loses connection with the ABS sensor because the module itself is failing and not the sensor itself but triggers a code for the sensor. This is not always the case but unfortunately in most cases it is. You have to test the sensors to rule them out first and then go to the module.

Anyway the point I want to make is that I sent my module to Module Repair Pro in Southern CA and they said my unit was non repairable so I was sold a "rebuilt" unit that I had to have coded to my car as it the unit was new to my vehicle. This worked until a month or so ago and same old thing happened, all the lights and now no speedo and going into limp mode. In the morning started out fine but once warm everything went kaput. I had to disconnect the ABS Module to get the tranny to shift again. I pulled same old code for the ABS sensor so I replaced it. That did not fix it...wishful thinking. I then figured it was the module messed up again so I sent it back to Module Repair Pro. They tested it and said it was fine but pulled the sensor code but now for the other side. Got it back and tested the wiring to make sure no shorts...all fine. I siwtched sensors from one side to the other to see if code would change. Reinstalled Module and same old problem still. I then threw my hands up and and took it to a mechanic to have them test the sensors to see if I had missed something as Module Repair Pro said the module was OK. Mechanic found nothing wrong in wiring or in the sensors and said it had to be the module. I then sent it to Module Masters in ID. They looked at it and said I had an bad inlet code and not repairable. I then had them sent it to Module Repair Pro who had previously said it was OK. Now Moduled Repair Pro says yep it is bad but since I sent it to Module Masters to have them look at it and supposedly they did not pull that same inlet code when they had it the first time to look at it, they will not honor the lifetime warranty. I only sent it to Module Master as I quetioned what Module Repair Pro had told me, that it was ok. All I know it was the same old symptoms from day one.

Take from this what you want but in hindsight I would consider buying a new one if done over. Module Masters will repair for $300 if they can, Module Repair Pro will do it for like $125 if they can do so but how long will these last? You can buy a new one for $415 right now on e-bay however you have to have it coded to the car when you receive it for about $100. If they can repair yours then it may be worth rolling the dice on the repair as it is cheaper and do not have to recode to car. If they hit you up for a rebuilt one because yours is no good you are talking $250 - $370 depending on the company and it will have to be coded to your car. In that case why not just buy new at $415 off e-bay? Just a thought.

I would be interested in knowing from people who have had the repairs done instead of going with new, how long have these been lasting for them?
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